Anti-sway control bars

[stevep516]

I looking for input regarding  anti sway control............I've got an RC 28' enclosed Vee nose trailer. I looked into adding the sway control and the local RV dealer stated that due to the length available , he could only install a Friction type , like Curt Towing Sway control. 

 

I was puzzled because the trailer manufacturer has chain slots welded on the nose. Any thoughts on going about finding one that is suitable and can be installed on both side?

 

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, stevep516 said:

I was puzzled because the trailer manufacturer has chain slots welded on the nose.

Would those be for use with a weight distribution hitch?  In fact, with that trailer I'd recommend a weight distribution hitch first; you may find that you don't need the additional sway control.  I use a Curt weight distribution hitch with my 24" enclosed Pace American (10,000# GWR) and have had no sway issues.

[stevep516]

Thank you, EmTee,

After reading your suggestion, I think I need to do some homework. I thought I would be able  to position the car inside the trailer until I reached a tongue weight between 10-15 % of gross load.

After looking at the Weigh Safe web site, I may be over simplifying the situation. I  think I need to seek additional help with understanding the  weight distribution on the load.

[Barney Eaton]

I'm looking at the safety chains.

It is my understanding that they should be crossed...... the object is should the trailer disconnect, the tongue would drop into the crossed 

chains and that would keep the tongue from dropping to the road and digging into the pavement. 

On this example it appears the chains are twisted together because they are too long and would drag. 

If you are going to use them get it right. 

[EmTee]

2 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

On this example it appears the chains are twisted together because they are too long and would drag. 

Agree, however, I have seen trailers where each individual chain was twisted and then crossed, presumably to shorten them and keep from dragging.  Best, however, to just remove any unnecessary links.

[Trulyvintage]

Your coupler set up is identical 

to mine - your trailer looks like

it has an aluminum frame.

 

Your first concern should be

the method that was used

to mount the axle to the frame:

 

@ 

 

 

I would not worry about anti sway

or equalizer issues unless you 

feel your trailer fishtailing 

noticeably while loaded

at towing speed.

 

Jim

[stevep516]

Thank you Jim,

I recently purchased the trailer, so I still in the learning curve. I'll definitely take a look at the axle mounting. Obviously, I've seen many of your comments and I appreciate your perspective.

 

When loading the car  I used the 10-15% tongue weight to locate the car in the trailer. I pulled it to Charlotte and anything over 60 MPH was very uncomfortable.  So that is the reason for my questions on the anti -sway / weight distribution hitch.

Regards,

 

[Trulyvintage]

Your tow vehicle might be 

too light for the loaded trailer.

 

Have you weighed the trailer

on a scale fully loaded ?

 

Consult the manufacturer 

of your tow vehicle to find

out the maximum recommended

towing capacity is given how

it is equipped.

 

Jim

[Turbinator]

Ive towed and hauled what I think is

a lot for not having a CDL A Drivers license. Im counting driving a 26ft flat bed loaded 7 high of hay and straw 50 plus years ago.

I have an 18 ft car hauler and a 28’ RV trailer. I got a Blue Ox rig with stabilizer bars. I find the stabilizer bars on the RV helpful for ride and steering. Im pulling with a Chevy 6 L gasoline engine in a 2500 HD pickup.

I drive the speed limit. Many drivers today are reckless. Seems to me erring on the side of caution is not to be faulted. ( im the guy that wears a belt with his suspenders)

Costs are ALWAYS a consideration and really it is personal judgement on over doing safety factors.

Technically, ive nothing to offer on rig set up. On my experience safety is real important.

Turbinator

[EmTee]

The GVWR and maximum axle load should be stated on a sticker on the driver's door or somewhere in the jamb.

[Trulyvintage]

Here is my trailer with

equalizer bars installed.

Reese is the manufacturer.

 

You have to leave the trailer

connected to the vehicle 

and raise it high enough 

to install the bars:

 

 

Then you lower the trailer

to the loaded position.

This is easier to do when

the trailer is empty:

 

 

I only use this because it came

with the trailer - I tow with a

Ford Crew Cab Dually so they

are not actually necessary.

 

This trailer has a " stub tongue "

which is my term for a short 

and narrow framed tongue.

 

The spread pattern is not 

conducive to equalizer bars

and/or anti sway devices.

 

If your tow vehicle is not 

have a sufficient footprint

to safely tow your trailer

without " fishtailing "

then no add on device

will eliminate it.

I had been custom building

my enclosed car hauler trailers

utilizing what I had learned towing

over the years and incorporating 

that information into each trailer.

 

Then - Covid hit and I had to

economize so I bought my current

all aluminum enclosed car hauler

trailer from a gentleman that I

helped sell a couple unique 

vehicles to Volo Museum.

 

That is how I was able to meet

my good friend Greg Grams.

 

Jim

[edinmass]

I agree with the buy the biggest truck you can. A one ton crew cab dually is best. I will never buy a trailer that doesn’t have a triple axel spread set up.  I am always hauling big stuff and the extra brake capacity and ease of adjusting load weight is fantastic.  Trailering a car is instantly dangerous.  Most people don’t respect the risk involved. 

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, Trulyvintage said:

Here is my trailer with

equalizer bars installed.

Reese is the manufacturer.

Is that setup specifically designed for an aluminum trailer?  It looks like the equalizer spring bends around and pushes against a steel pad bolted to the bottom of the tongue frame.  Or, does this setup also provide sway control?

 

 

My Curt hitch simply connects to the trailer frame (steel) with chains.

 

[Trulyvintage]

Previous owner installed this

set up as I mentioned.

The installation is semi - permanent.

There is no sway control to speak of.

 

 

Jim

[Marty Roth]

I've used equalizer hitches for nearly 50 years with a strong level of comfort.

In the beginning I also used a friction anti-sway, but with sensible loading have found it entirely unnecessary - at least for me, and haven't used it in probably 40 years or more.

 

[DFeeney]

Be careful who you lend your trailer to.  (If any).