Water decal attachment

[tcslr]

Original air silencer and oil canister had decals. These can be purchased but are water style. The one ( see photo) on the Buick oil filter flakes off.

is there any tricks or glues or adhesives that can be used to stop this?

TIA.

[Walt G]

Surface has to be totally clean and free from any oil, dirt  or anything else or it may cause a reaction to let the decal flake off or deteriorate.

I would wipe the area off with a bit of lacquer thinner on a rag ( not soaked) then wipe the area with a rag with water on it and totally dry off, let it air dry for a hour plus and then apply the decal.

[straight8pontiac]

tcslr... I know some fellows in the model train hobby who use water decals in restoring their train cars and engines. Their procedure is to start with a clean, gloss surface. Apply the water decal, then apply a product called SOLVASET manufactured by Walthers. It is a liquid which will allow you to gently slide the decal into its final position and then draws the decal down to "set it" in position. The excess will evaporate. Then they will apply a satin finish over it to seal it. I believe this would work for you. Good luck... Dave

[Gary_Ash]

MicroMark carries the SolvaSet and other chemicals for water-slide decal work. I usually top coat the dried decals with a water-based acrylic varnish like Minwax Polycrylic using a fine camel hair brush, just a thin coat. 

[ABear]

Surface must be 100% free of dirt or grease, clean very well.

 

Generally water slide type decals only need just water to "slide" the decal off of the backing paper. There typically is enough water under the decal to allow you to slide it into position. Once it is the way you want it, then squeegee the water from under the decal.

 

Allow lots of time for the water under the decal to fully dissipate, once the water has dissipated the glue will be set. This process can take several days to a week.

 

Once you are very sure that the water has dissipated and the glue is set you will want to "top coat" the label. You can use a clear acrylic or clear lacquer out of a spray can for a top coat. Of coarse you will need to mask off the area for the spray clear coat. Don't mask up to the label, leave some space past the label, the several coats of clear. The clear needs to go past the label to seal the edges from water and grease.

 

Alternate method for top coating is finding some clear self adhesive vinyl tape which is outdoor rated that can be sized to fit over your label as long as label has proper time to set.

 

One of the issues that may be causing your labels to peel is that adhesive used just may not be rated for the heat encountered in the engine compartment. Not sure if you can get around that problem, the clear vinyl tape might get around the heat issue.

 

Here is one place that has a bunch of outdoor specialty vinyls..

 

https://signwarehouse.com/collections/outdoor-vinyl

 

You can also ask around some of the sing shops local to that make and sell outdoor vinyl signage and see what they recommend.

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

All the scrolls on my fire truck are water slide decals. Clean the surface and dry. Install decal and let dry overnight. I then applied a coat of clear coat over it with a brush. Make sure you go past the edge a little to seal it down. Mike

[Terry Harper]

About 4 years ago I made a large water slide decal for the radiator shutter for the dump truck. Not the smoothest surface! I did wash and clean it well with a final wipe using isopropyl alcohol.  I used a nice soft bristle brush to place it and nestle it into the surface then sealed it with a matt clear coat.

 

It's held up pretty well.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 31 by Terry Harper (see edit history)

[wmsue]

The decal you show is not a water decal. That decal probably got old and flaked off because of time and temperature.

 

I agree that heat might be your enemy.

I always put my water-slide decal on clean-dry area then let dry thoroughly. Lately I've used Rustoleum clear enamel to seal the edges and it dries to touch in less than 30 minutes.

 

Maybe switch to a standard Avery adhesive label if heat is a concern. I've had good luck, so far, with this.

You can not have white ink on a water decal label. You'd have to pre-paint that area white for it to work.

 

Good Luck

 

Bill

[Terry Harper]

2 hours ago, wmsue said:

The decal you show is not a water decal. That decal probably got old and flaked off because of time and temperature.

 

I agree that heat might be your enemy.

I always put my water-slide decal on clean-dry area then let dry thoroughly. Lately I've used Rustoleum clear enamel to seal the edges and it dries to touch in less than 30 minutes.

 

Maybe switch to a standard Avery adhesive label if heat is a concern. I've had good luck, so far, with this.

You can not have white ink on a water decal label. You'd have to pre-paint that area white for it to work.

 

Good Luck

 

Bill

Hello Bill,

you can purchase water slide decal sheets with a white background. That is what I used for the decal on the dump truck. 

[wmsue]

Good to know.

 

Thanks