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1947 Hudson rare find - $7,500


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Could be a deal! 

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/sebastopol-1947-hudson-rare-find/7724545493.html

This is a great car. It drives , but needs a clutch, just more than i want to put into it. I have 4 other cars and this needs more than i can give it right now/ I am selling it for exactly what i have invested in it.......mileage is not accurate I have pictures but cannot load them I will send them to you thanks I can sent to your email thanks

email: 73d31228f63434299fead8285de019dd@sale.craigslist.org

01212_ll4bJTakbFM_0ak07K_600x450.jpg1947 Hudson rare find 100k0k_fMLbje1k5PA_0ak07K_600x450.jpg00B0B_cfitzvR7ee9_0ak07K_600x450.jpg00f0f_il743mj4zx9_0ak07K_600x450.jpg00Y0Y_jjwufqRWPQ4_0ak07K_600x450.jpg

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43 minutes ago, Bryan G said:

Are those cork clutches much trouble to have redone

Nope.  There are people in the HET club that do them. 
https://www.wildrickrestorations.com/

 

The pressure plate seals against the flywheel to hold the fluid in.  (There is a gasket) There is a seal on the release bearing that holds the fluid inside.  

It’s foolish to not replace everything at once. (not just the disc). 
 

The most interesting part of Hudson’s is that the crossmember below the transmission is riveted to the frame and is not removable!  
 

The approved Hudson procedure is to remove the front seat, pull out the carpet/mat, unscrew and remove the floor pan then use the approved Hudson tool to hoist the transmission out through the interior! 
It is also possible to slide the transmission and (non removable) bell housing back, rest it on the crossmember and then R&R the clutch and flywheel. 😲 but maybe not the easiest method if you haven’t done it before. 

 

It is inconceivable to me why Hudson thought that removing a heavy greasy part through the interior would be a good idea. 🤨

 

On my 1942 I didn’t want to destroy the original mat or upholstery so I cut the rivets, removed the crossmember and transmission from below and bolted the crossmember back in. 
 

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The paint on this one seems a little tired but man, that interior is a beauty.  This would be a fabulous driver once sorted out. As for the advice on drilling the rivets out od the transmission support, that seems like a smart plan. I'm glad the car is a long way away.

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I've replaced the wet clutch in a Hudson srepdown. It's pretty much like m-mman says. A Chilton/Motor's manual or shop manual explains the procedure. You pull the seat cushions. Then the seat frame is exposed and it's easy to remove. Take the floormats out. There's a large cover in the in the center of the floor with a lot of bolts around the perimeter and once that's off everything's exposed and there's plenty of room to work. It's really not that bad of a job. A helper comes in handy but I've lifted the tranny in & out by myself. The clutch discs have always been available through someone in the HET club. If you maintain the fluid level in those cork clutches they will last a long, long time.

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The Commodore interiors are spectacular but the original material (like so many cars of the postwar era) had prominent stripes to it.   I'm not seeing any, although the photos are less than adequately lit to be certain.   Point being, I think the interior was redone in plain blue and gray.   So note that in valuing the car.

Not sure but think the Hudson world is down to no more than TWO guys that are still doing rebuilding of these cork clutches.  I'd check into that before any purchase.  

What is unfortunate for the survival of manual shift Hudsons is that NO ONE EVER has come up with a modification to swap out all the "cork and oil" related clutch equipment for a dry, easily replaced, interchange of parts.

All Hudsons from 1911 through 1954 used some version of the cork clutch.   Exceptions are only the '53 and '54 H Jet compacts.   A fantastically smooth and long-lived engineering coup SO LONG AS THEY ARE MAINTAINED with simple "Hudsonite" oil change maintenance.   A friend drag raced a stepdown coupe for a couple seasons and NEVER had a clutch problem!  

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I've done many Hudson clutch jobs. I prefer to take out the seat and do it from inside.

The Step downs with two lever transmissions are easiest from underneath. The trans and  bell housing are separate.

Many have used Kevlar lings, similar to fork lifts. I've always used the cork.

About a 5-6 hour job if you're rested up

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I just did a  early Hudson clutch plate replacement.   I found the parts through the Hudson club and was able to complete the task with out any problems.   Slow and easy is the word.

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