SM Shark Posted December 1, 2023 Share Posted December 1, 2023 We just acquired a very nice 1923 Buick 4 38 and there seems to be an issue in the wiring to the head lamps and other lighting. They will momentarily turn on and then turn off or not come on at all with the switch. I was thinking of pulling the switch and redoing all the wires going in? Does anyone have any other ideas? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmhowe Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 My decision would depend upon the condition of the wiring. If it is awful, I'm with you; do a careful and authentic rewire. However, if the first look doesn't scare you, I would set about disconnecting the battery, and carefully cleaning and reconnecting each connection. I figure, if one connection is bad, there are probably others, so I would set out to check and clean them all. That way, I get to learn more about my car and become comfortable about the integrity of the electrical system. As I do it, I learn about other units as well. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 Look around in the vicinity of the switch for a thermal circuit breaker. I don't know if your car has one, but Buick certainly has used them now and then. They work by heat, so if it has one maybe it is bad, but on the other hand it is possible that it would just need it's points cleaned. Dirty points make excessive heat. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Shark Posted December 2, 2023 Author Share Posted December 2, 2023 Thank you. I do believe it has a circuit breaker. I just briefly looked behind it and I have a copy of the wiring diagram. I will let you know what happens. Thanks again!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 The circuit breaker will certainly turn the lights off if there is an overload, usually it buzzes, but after 100 yrs anything is possible. If the wiring looks in good shape I would check for problems in the headlight sockets. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 (edited) If the switch has been rebuilt with a modern replica case (aluminum) instead of the original crumbling die cast unit, the replica levers also do not fit well. I had to true the lever shafts and shim them to keep a good fit so the contacts were doing their job. What the micarta contact plate looked like since I was experiencing intermitents also. I had to make new contacts and do an epoxy filler to replace burnt sections. Edited December 2, 2023 by dibarlaw spelling (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFeeney Posted December 2, 2023 Share Posted December 2, 2023 (edited) This type repair is possible and with a little work a non electrical person can learn how to trouble shoot a circuit and see where the power stops. I would buy a GOOD 6/12 volt test light. ( 10-12$) They are about the size of a short screwdriver and have a light and wire with a alligator clip on the end. The more you use it the better you become. Have a electrical person help you get started . Edited December 3, 2023 by DFeeney (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordy Posted December 7, 2023 Share Posted December 7, 2023 This may be relevant info. Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 19, 2023 Share Posted December 19, 2023 Bobs Automobilia has most of the parts that you need to rebuild the ignition and light switch. Be very careful removing the bezel as they are not available. Go slow and do not overbend the tabs. Use the wiring diagram provided and a test light or ohm meter. It is likely that the switch needs to be rebuilt, but it could also be a loose connection somewhere in the circuit. If the lights do not come on when the switch is at room temperature, then it is not the overload protector (which it has). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM Shark Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 Thank you for the wiring diagram. It helped a lot. Got all the lights working. Took the ignition light switch apart after labeling and repairing wiring. Sanded and cleaned contacts and reassembled. Everything comes on and works now, only odd thing is if you let the switch fall into place it turns off, if you leave the switch just prior to each drop location it is fine??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 You must have one part installed wrong, or maybe someone before you swapped a part out, or maybe there is wear on the micarta insulator. Maybe heat history on one of the parts. Look for any loose or slotted parts that have elongated. This is the ignition side. The ignition switch contacts (#3) has the 3 fingers closer together than the light contacts. Use an ohm meter when rebuilding these to check functionality prior to reinstalling. Hugh 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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