MercMontMars Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 Hi there, I’m posting about my 52 Pontiac again. I’ve had to step away from it for a little while as this motor has been very frustrating to work on, I thought these old 8s were simple but it has given me a run for my money. Right now where I’m at is spark issues again, I had the motor ‘turn key’ then took it for a short test drive and halfway through I lost all spark and had to call a tow home. I’ve tried a new coil, condenser, none of it has helped. The coil gets hot when I turn ignition on but the plugs aren’t getting anything. I was running a 12v battery on the test drive, so I’m wondering if I blew something in the ignition system somewhere? Something had to have gave way, but I’m not sure what and I don’t want to tear everything apart for something that could be simple. I also believe my starter is on its last legs, because the last time I cranked the motor it was very weak and I saw a small amount of smoke from the starter. Does anyone have a good starter core or some advice to fix mine? I’m also still looking for a good generator unit, as mine has a bent shaft. I plan on doing a full overhaul on this motor eventually as it will need it, but I want it to show some life before I do all that. I will probably overhaul it while the car is out for rust repair and repainting. Thank you for any help! Sorry for the large post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 Some things worth noting: Rebuilt Carburetor Rebuilt Distributor Rebuilt Fuel Pump What ignition rotor do you guys use? I don’t believe that is the problem, but when I first rebuilt the distributor I had to try about 2 or 3 rotors I had lying around my garage before one made proper contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61polara Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 Check for a break in the wire from the coil to the distributor. Also do you have power to the coil? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted September 10, 2023 Author Share Posted September 10, 2023 @61polara I’ll have to check, wire is brand new but there could be some kind of connection issue. Yes, coil gets warm when ignition is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted September 10, 2023 Share Posted September 10, 2023 (edited) 18 minutes ago, MercMontMars said: coil gets warm when ignition is on. Points close then but do they open? I do not mean a visual check. Take a test light and hook between key side and ground at the coil and crank the engine. the light should be on. That shows you have ignition power. I know you do because the coil is hot, but this proves you still do while you are making the test. Then connect the test light between the points side of the coil and ground. Crank the engine. The light should flash. Does it? If the light stays on while cranking, the circuit is broken somewhere between the coil and the points. Look for a broken wire as @61polara suggested. They can break inside the insulation. Hint: an electrical wire should never stretch. If it's not that, it indicates the points cannot ground the wire. Either they must not be closing, or maybe there is a broken ground wire inside the distributor. If the light stays off while cranking, the wire is shorted to ground somehow. The points are not electrically opening. If they are physically opening, look for some metal on the hot half of the points touching ground or a bare spot on the wire touching ground. Edited September 10, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history) 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 12 volts could have burned the points. Sure, not really if a short test drive, but the coil was not meant to carry twice the current as designed! And this double current has to go through the points. E=IR, double the E (volts) and keep R the same (resistance of the coil winding) then I (current in amps) is double. Do the test Bloo says and get a 6 volt battery to keep the parts operating as designed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 If there is a voltage drop resistor to the coil, try bypassing it. I had a 57 Chevy with a faulty resistor that checked out okay with a meter, but when switched on it dead shorted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 Just replace the condenser & see if you get spark. Do the easy stuff first.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 There are some simple things you can do. 1 remove the distributor, but mark the rotor to which plug it is pointing to in the cap, ( plug Number ) 2 check the distributor on the bench, check for play on shaft , points condition and gap. Counterweight below the plate and springs. If everything is good then re install. 3 Check the wire from the distributor to the ignition coil. 4 Turn ignition on and with test light check for current at the IN of the coil. If no current there is a break in the feed wire coming in from the ignition key. 5 Use a jumper wire to feed the IN terminal of the coil and check for fire at the distributor . There may be other issues, like gas, common problem is plugged gas filter among other fuel problems. Smoke coming from the starter means trouble, It needs a rebuild. About Generator it is better to rebuild the regulator and generator as a unit. I do not what part of the US you are in but there is a fellow at Grand Ledge , Michigan who is excellent and genuine. jason@aerrebuild.com 517 345 7272, 866 228 0218 Cheers. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 On 9/10/2023 at 12:29 PM, MercMontMars said: I was running a 12v battery on the test drive, so I’m wondering if I blew something in the ignition system somewhere? You are getting excellent advice about troubleshooting your ignition system. However…… Your car was originally 6 volts. I don’t remember hearing that it was properly and completely changed to 12 volts. Generator, regulator, coil, bulbs, gauges, etc. I feel a need to make a reminder that you cannot just swap batteries between 6 and 12 volts anymore than you can swap gasoline and diesel fuel between what the vehicle was originally designed to operate on. There are some things that cannot be interchanged without significant modifications. Unless the electrical system has been adapted and modified for 12 volts, put a 6 volt battery back into it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted September 12, 2023 Author Share Posted September 12, 2023 @Mark Shaw Tried that already, no luck unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Coil gets hot, hmm, are the points opening ? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 I would keep it 6 volts if that what it was. Using a 12 volts to give it a boost will eventually ruin the 6 volt starter. An ignition coil getting hot means it is kaput. Get a new one. I have seen battery cable terminals corroded inside the solder joint. Take nothing for granted. Electrical problem can be very frustrating. I was taught by an old workmate of mine when ever I was frustrated to take a break, a long break to gather my thoughts. It like magic. About 6 months ago I could not charge the 6 v. battery with my shop charger. At the lowest setting on the 6 volt dial the electrolyte was boiling. I got one of the smart charger from amazon . No setting required. The battery is very happy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 Current running through the coil will make it hot (think electric bar radiator). If the points aren't opening, or, current is permanently going to ground somewhere else, then the coil will get excessively hot. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted September 14, 2023 Author Share Posted September 14, 2023 Thank you for all the great advice everyone, I will be rolling the car into my garage today or tomorrow to get some work done and try everything that has been mentioned. Wish me luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted September 16, 2023 Share Posted September 16, 2023 Let us know what you did to get the car going. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MercMontMars Posted September 16, 2023 Author Share Posted September 16, 2023 Prepping for operation… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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