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1924 Buick Six Cylinder block separation from Crankcase


John Nelson

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I’m in the process of going through the engine of my 1924 24/45 Buick and am wondering about separating the cylinder casting from the crankcase to facilitate the cleaning of both units. Is there any reason that I shouldn’t do this? If I do separate these components is there anything I need to pay particular attention to during the reassembly.    Thanks John 

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1 hour ago, John Nelson said:

Is there any reason that I shouldn’t do this?

IMO, the primary reason is that it is a lot of extra work for something that will get just as dirty in a relatively short time. 

Why do you need to get your engine so clean?  Is this going to be a no-go show car?

 

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No, not a show car, but it is extremely full of oil sludge and the water jacket is absolutely loaded with rust CHUNKS. I’m planning on doing a valve job and new rings for the pistons as well as checking the bearings for spec. Other than that just inspecting everything and resealing it. A basic overhaul.     John 

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John,

I admire your wanting to do some things to the engine to help keep it cleaner and a lot more presentable.  And most importantly to help keep it in top running condition.  Keep this thought in mind - NOT EVERYONE IS A SLOB.  You have some things going in your favor and if you want to break the engine down it certainly will be easier than working with a caged-valve engine.  If I were in your shoes the first thing that I would do is have the cylinder block thermal cleaned - this will be the best money that you will ever spend on the engine and the radiator will really be able to do its job much better.  These old engines were not oil tight.  They seeped, slobbered, oozed, and dripped as long as they were running and that attracts dust and dirt as long as you drive the car.  Do not be shamed by some on here who are anti-show car.  My car is not a show car either and never will be, however, I am not going to let it look like a fugitive from the scrapyard because I am too lazy to keep things under the hood clean.  I believe that you are headed in the right direction and do not let anyone talk you into taking a shortcut to save a buck or two.  Not worth it in the long run.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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19 hours ago, John Nelson said:

I’m in the process of going through the engine of my 1924 24/45 Buick and am wondering about separating the cylinder casting from the crankcase to facilitate the cleaning of both units. Is there any reason that I shouldn’t do this? If I do separate these components is there anything I need to pay particular attention to during the reassembly.    Thanks John 

 

To the group, if the crankcase is separated from the cylinder block, is there a gasket between the two that would need to be made or sourced for reassembly?  Or, use a sealer from a tube?  Or, dry? 

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Every time that I have had a head or block  thermal cleaned,  when I got them back.I have had to blow the rust flakes out of them with compressed air.  

 

You should consider having both the head and block surfaced.  It is cheaper than a new head gasket and you will be sure that you will not have to take everything apart again to fix a leaking head gasket.

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One of the main reasons I plan on separating the cylinder casting from the crankcase is to have the cylinders hot tanked, I’ll also have the head done at the same time. With all the external oil lines this engine has they definitely will be getting close attention as well as every other oil passage. I learned the hard way about that the first time I rebuilt my MGA engine back in the 70’s, I’d had the crank turned and “assumed” the shop would have cleaned the passages, nope.

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On 6/17/2023 at 5:37 PM, John Nelson said:

No, not a show car, but it is extremely full of oil sludge and the water jacket is absolutely loaded with rust CHUNKS.

Thanks for the clarification as you only mentioned cleaning in your initial post.  I agree that complete disassembly is needed to do a complete overhaul. 

Although Terry may think I am a slob and anti-show car, (thanks Terry) I was only suggesting that cleaning these old engines is a short-term deal if you drive the car.  As Terry said: "They seeped, slobbered, oozed, and dripped as long as they were running and that attracts dust and dirt as long as you drive the car."

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  • 3 weeks later...

I agree with Mark.  These engines are only clean for maybe the first 15 minutes after a rebuild and maybe shorter if you start driving them.  When the owners manual says to oil the lifters and valves every 25-50 miles, every thing gets dirty. 

 

Also, if the car is not dripping oil, then there is probably something wrong or it is running out of oil.

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