BlueDevil Posted December 5, 2023 Author Share Posted December 5, 2023 Manifold and NOS carb and the starter is in 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31 LaSalle Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 14 minutes ago, BlueDevil said: Manifold and NOS carb and the starter is in Looking good I am enjoying your posts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 8, 2023 Author Share Posted December 8, 2023 Generator got sorted out and back to stock. Just a 1 wire switch and replaced the regulator with a cutout. Before starting it I wanted to get as much oil in the galleries as possible and come up with this. I took the block fitting off a 72 which is a single line fitting and replaced the dual one of the 75 with it. It utilizes a hydraulic coupling with a ID tube and a funnel that has a snug fit over the tube. Screw it together in the block and add oil to the funnel. When done, reinstall the original 75 double fitting and hook up the lines. Hope it works. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 10, 2023 Author Share Posted December 10, 2023 Installed the plug wires today. What a PITA. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 I found a new use for my sneaky Pete, pulling ignition wires thru looms. Have to tape the end as it doesn't get a good grip on the cloth lacquer wire. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 I finally picked the lock on the driver's door tool tray. Unfortunately, no tools, but there was a Certificate of Vehicle Registration in New Mexico. The New Mexico owner bought the car on 4/12/87. Registration was 6/15/87. Car sold for $36,000, had a 2% tax and had a stamped notation that the NEV TITLE INV CAR HAS BEEN IN MUSEUM. It was previously titled in PA under title 126600408K. Let me know if anyone has spare tools to sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 11, 2023 Share Posted December 11, 2023 Just a cautionary note....examine your fan VERY carefully as they are prone to getting cracks near the center. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted December 11, 2023 Share Posted December 11, 2023 25 minutes ago, keiser31 said: Just a cautionary note....examine your fan VERY carefully as they are prone to getting cracks near the center. Yes indeed! A friend recently lost his radiator to one of those fans in the middle of a 6-day, 600-mile tour in southern Utah. Magnaflux and whatever reinforcement as appropriate highly recommended! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 Grimy, Do you know how it failed, like around rivet holes, the main water pump shaft nut?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted December 11, 2023 Share Posted December 11, 2023 2 minutes ago, BlueDevil said: Grimy, Do you know how it failed, like around rivet holes, the main water pump shaft nut?? No, but I'm pretty sure it was not the nut. When I next see him, I'll ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 There are 4 bent tabs with rivets and one of those would be my guess as a failure point. What I don’t like is the 2 rivets that hold it on the fan pulley. Kind of like a short dowel. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 11, 2023 Author Share Posted December 11, 2023 Like the Pierce setup a lot better 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 14, 2023 Author Share Posted December 14, 2023 Put a quart of oil in the oil pressure/filter port and similar down the distributor opening. Set the points, generator is back to original configuration and is in, distributor is wired, carb is on and hooked up to the aux fuel pump so I am just about ready to start it. Waiting on fan belt but I can still start it without one. Wish me luck. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 14, 2023 Share Posted December 14, 2023 Looks beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 16, 2023 Author Share Posted December 16, 2023 With Grimy and Jay's help here is the correct belt Here it is on the car And with the fan 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted December 17, 2023 Share Posted December 17, 2023 Man...what a great car! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted December 22, 2023 Author Share Posted December 22, 2023 Thanks Eric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 I was able to get a Pilot Ray for the DC. It arrived in a great wood box and was well packaged but somehow the bracket that held the light bucket to the base broke the ears off. I decided to fabricate a replacement out of brass. I bought a sheet of 1/8" brass, annealed it and beat it into the curvature of the broken part. The base I turned out of brass rod. There is a taper at the top of the base that I reamed to fit. Just need to cut out the part on the sheet, drill a couple holes, silver solder everything and find a plater somewhere. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Getting close. Repair one bolt hole, true up some edges and it is off to the platers, if I can find one. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 I started to bleed the brakes today. I filled the reservoir about 1/2 full and let it sit over night. If there are no leaks then you can bleed the brakes. If there is a leak it will be evident by a drop in the fluid level in the reservoir and a pool on the floor. Next morning I had 2 leaks. One was the front wheel cylinder banjo bolt. Turned out the crush washer was too thin. I replaced it with a thicker one and that solved the problem. The second one was more problematic. It was a rear wheel cylinder and this is what I found. The fact the fitting is brass, is 95 years old and brittle and this is a steel line that I used to replace the copper, leaves me debating replacing all the brass fittings with steel. Not a simple task. Better fail now than when I have a bunch of grandkids in the back. Might be ok if an EX is back there. Kind of like when I was getting ready to start an Jag E-type after restoration. The Lucas (Prince of Darkness) electric fuel pump that was in the gas tank had me worried, so I had my mother in law start it the first time while I was 50 feet away. 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 And here I had been lulled into thinking you were such a nice guy! 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 I ordered some steel flare nuts and will replace the brass with them. Next thing to tackle is the steering column levers. First one is the easy one. Polish the aluminum and paint the rim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The inner one is a little more of an issue. I have 2 broken used ones and one repro casting. The debate I am having with myself is whether to take the 2 partial black rings and rob from one and cut and glue In the missing pieces to make a complete one or set up a mold and cast a complete one or machine one out of plastic or aluminum. They all fail the same way. Sit a long time and then someone tries to force the lever to move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Here is the easy one 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 I opted for the cut and paste method. Need to do some more sanding and use a better paint gun for some respray, but the end is in sight. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Great job! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 I was back on the brakes. Fill up the reservoir and in 10 min it would leak at the left rear. This is the same leak area where I found the split hose fitting. I had replaced the line and the coupling and still had a leak. There is a banjo bolt copper crush washer, banjo fitting, crush washer, wheel cylinder. Everything was tight. I checked the crush washers and the ones on the car were bout .020 thinner (.065" vs .085") than the ones I had bought from a brake line supplier. Changed to the heavier washer and leak is gone. Evidently the banjo bolt was bottoming out in the wheel cylinder before totally sealing, maybe a few thous, but enough to leak 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 6 hours ago, BlueDevil said: I was back on the brakes. Fill up the reservoir and in 10 min it would leak at the left rear. This is the same leak area where I found the split hose fitting. I had replaced the line and the coupling and still had a leak. There is a banjo bolt copper crush washer, banjo fitting, crush washer, wheel cylinder. Everything was tight. I checked the crush washers and the ones on the car were bout .020 thinner (.065" vs .085") than the ones I had bought from a brake line supplier. Changed to the heavier washer and leak is gone. Evidently the banjo bolt was bottoming out in the wheel cylinder before totally sealing, maybe a few thous, but enough to leak Good information to know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 Here is the replacement Pilot Ray bracket with the Revell paint. I might get away with it as it is almost impossible to see 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Interesting footnote. I got this Pilot Ray light from Preston Tucker's great-grandson. He has Tucker #18. I guess you don't need a Pilot Ray if you have a Tucker. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Here is the Pilot Ray back in service. Just need to adjust the mounts 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Thanks for sharing all this info and great work on your car, I’m really enjoying this thread and should come in handy when I get started on my 75 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I saw you had paint on top of the block. Did you remove it prior the head installation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demco32 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 On 11/15/2023 at 9:59 PM, BlueDevil said: Ok, which side is the offset side? The manual says: The tongue of the distributor driveshaft, unless it has been removed (it has),is now parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft, with the offset on the side towards the carburetor. Which side? I would think the heavy side, but???? I guess the worse case is your dizzy is 180 out. hold the distributor in so you can see the position of the rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 Roger, Yes, I did remove the paint. There was il on the surface so it came off easily. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 One of the theft items when I got the car, was the round cap that covers the upper windshield pivot. I have been unable to find one so I thought I would try and make one. I am not a machinist and this is pretty beginner level and brass is pretty easy material, but I think I have a part, that once buffed and plated, would work. In the pic with the original and the new one, there is still a machining tab on the bottom of the new one that makes it sit up higher and look large, but they are the same. Another item off the list. Took about 15 min. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 The original looks like this. Any clue on how to duplicate the letters/numbers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Here is my inspiration car. Don't think I will get there. National First Prize in 2000 and Grand National First Prize in 2001. https://www.broadarrowauctions.com/vehicles/am24_r045/1929-chrysler-model-75-dual-cowl-phaeton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Who can tell me what the letter after the R in the stamping on the washer is? B or E or??? PATIENT RB, RE or something else, - 15947 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 (edited) 3 hours ago, BlueDevil said: The original looks like this. Any clue on how to duplicate the letters/numbers? Take your original and new one to a trophy shop. I bet they can match nearly the exact letters as on the original. Edited February 23 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now