Restoring a 1952 Pontiac Chieftain

[MercMontMars]

Hi there, I’m new to the forum and am needing help with restoring my 52 Pontiac Chieftain. The vehicle has a swapped 1954 Pontiac Straight 8 with a 1954 hydraglide transmission. The vehicle is in great shape for its age, I’m just trying to get it running.

 

I cleaned out the motor the best I could, new thermostat, cleaned wiring, new spark plugs, etc. It ran and drove from the guy I bought it from to my shop no problems, just burnt oil. I went to start it the next day and only got a click from the starter, tried jumping it but didn’t work. Put a new 6v battery on and still low voltage, only clicks. I cleaned the wiring and ground and this seemed to fix it, I was able to turn the motor and get it to fire again, eventually achieving idle but the motor dies if I give it any throttle. I feel like it’s just a matter of tuning as the motor no longer burns oil and idles healthily.

 

Summed up, need to know what to do to get my chieftain running and driving. Will idle but won’t take any throttle, weird because I drove it to my shop from the seller.

 

I’m also leaking oil from where the oil pan and flywheel housing meet. It also looks like I’m missing a big part of the flywheel housing and multiple bolts are gone from my oil pan, likely the cause of the leak. I will be getting photos so I can show what is going on. I also need a good source of parts if anyone knows a place.
 

Anyone out there a Pontiac Straight 8 expert? Thanks for any help!

[pkhammer]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on a nice looking Pontiac! I'm not near the mechanic as some of the other members who I'm sure will weigh in with their opinions, but it sounds to me like your accelerator pump diaphragm needs to be replaced. Should be a readily available part.

[rocketraider]

How old was the fuel in the tank? A fuel system cleaning and carburetor rebuild may be in order. Also check any fuel filter it may have.

 

For easiest starting with a 6v system make sure you have big heavy battery cables, 0 or 2/0 gauge.

 

Charles Coker PONTIAC1953 here on Forums is very well versed in early 50s flathead Pontiacs and one of the best resources for information on those cars. Also consider joining Pontiac-Oakland Club International www.poci.org . There's also a Pontiac Flathead Owners forum here on AACA  https://forums.aaca.org/forum/87-pontiac-flathead-owners/

 

Gotta bust yer chops here. Unless the car is one of the Powerglide equipped Pontiacs that were built when the HydraMatic transmission plant burned down in 1953, your transmission is a HydraMatic, not a "hydraglide". It's a four speed fluid coupling transmission and pretty much bulletproof.

 

Great looking old Chieftain BTW!

[The 55er]

California Pontiac Restoration in Santa Ana, CA is an excellent parts source. 

[MercMontMars]

@rocketraider My mistake! Must’ve been thinking of the Harley hydraglide. Tank was run dry driving her back home, I filled her back up with some ethanol free fuel plus Lucas oil and system cleaner. I put a fuel filter back by the tank and she has the glass fuel bowl filter which seems to do it’s job well as I saw it collect a little. I’m gonna put money down on her needing a carb rebuild, as the carb is original and I’m sure it’s filthy inside. Is there anything inside the fuel pump I need to clean? I’ve mostly worked on cars from the later 60s so this is the oldest car I’ve worked on and some things are new to me, especially the glass fuel bowl. Currently has huge welder wires on the battery cables.

[MercMontMars]

@pkhammer Thanks! I’ll see if I can find one that’ll fit, I always hate when a motors component fails when I know it worked a day ago. Really makes diagnosing problems hard. 🤔 

[rocketraider]

I'm thinking if you're seeing trash collecting in the glass bowl filter the one near the tank may have already clogged up. A clear plastic inline filter is cheap enough to keep a few in the car. I've always mounted those underhood near the fuel pump suction, that way you can see what it's doing without having to go under the car.

 

Carb has to come apart to change the accelerator pump so might as well count on a complete clean and rebuild. Carbking here on Forums can help you ID it to get the correct rebuild kit, since there's likely some difference between 1952 and 1954 carbs.

[Ed Luddy]

"Tank was run dry driving her back home, I filled her back up with some ethanol free fuel plus Lucas oil and system cleaner. "

You will likely need to clean the complete fuel system after running it dry. Start at the tank and move forward. There's dirt lodged in there somewhere.

Blow the fuel lines out with compressed air from behind the fuel pump and see if the flow is even. I'd  change the pump and carb.

[Rusty_OToole]

Carburetors and fuel pumps use plastic and rubber parts that deteriorate in contact with modern fuels that contain ethanol and other additives. New or rebuilt carbs, fuel pumps and rebuild kits have better parts that are resistant to these chemicals.  If your carb and fuel pump have been rebuilt with new parts since the 1980s they have the improved parts, otherwise it is best to rebuild or replace them. Same goes for old rubber fuel lines.

[NailheadBob]

Possibly remove battery cables where they attach to engine and frame and clean corrosion to make sure you have very good connections. 
 

I love your great looking car

 

Bob

[Fleek]

go to the Pontiac flathead forums down below   Pontiac Flathead Owners - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)