Jump to content

New Wood For The Barrelback


NewOldWood

Recommended Posts


Not a job for the faint of heart! Or for those of a sound mind…………takes a true craftsman to put that machine back together. Would love to see photos in progress if you are able. And three thumbs up to the owner for taking on the project……….👍👍👍

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, edinmass said:


Not a job for the faint of heart! Or for those of a sound mind…………takes a true craftsman to put that machine back together. Would love to see photos in progress if you are able. And three thumbs up to the owner for taking on the project……….👍👍👍

As you probably know, T&C wagons were 41 and 42 only with similar but different wood. I've built one of each, the 41 with poor quality/incomplete wood, and the 42 from the 41 wood. That was the one that had me questioning my sanity. Not sure that question was ever answered...... I'll be posting updates once a month or so, stop back in once in a while and have a look!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Tom Boehm said:

I assume you finished the boat? I know of at least three you have completed while I am still plugging away at the doors on mine. 

The boat is up near Birmingham getting the finish sprayed on. Wont have much other than assembly once I get it back. There will be updates.

 

You're still plugging away, and that's what counts. You'll get it done one day, and all things considered I don't think your rate of progress is anything to be ashamed of. Your approach seems to be well thought out and in my opinion the workmanship is better than what I've seen come out of some professional shops. I would like to see it when it's done, I'm sure it will be exceptional!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure "NewOldWood" will comment with first hand knowledge. But, there is a story in the latest issue of the Woodie Times about the differences in construction in the Ford Sportsman and the post war Chrysler Town and Country. The Ford had a metal structure under the wood and the Chrysler was all wood, like we see in this '41/'42. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Shootey said:

The metal structure for the Town and Country seems flimsy. I assume the wood provides the bulk of the strength. 

The metal is just temporary to hold the roof up while the paint work was done. The roof will be supported by the B pillars and quarter panels, which are all wood.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Had a little issue with alignment and had to reshim the cowel to get the roof to where it needed to be. I used the original wood to get things lined up, that's why the passenger front door is on the car. With that out of the way, I got the door headers, B pillars and sills done, and am working my way around the drivers rear fender. There are five pieces of wood finger jointed together to make the finished piece, which will be the bottom piece of the quarter panel.

IMG_0007.JPG

IMG_0008.JPG

IMG_0009.JPG

IMG_0010.JPG

IMG_0012.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, beautiful workmanship.  I agree that the faint of heart would look at the shell as pictured and quickly exit the building.

 

Getting the curves correct, and some compound ones at that, is quite the feat.

 

I have a woodworking friend at a well known restoration shop, and he’s done numerous woodies.

 

I was working on a 1934 Pierce-Arrow sedan.  It had curtains on the rear quarter windows, and they were hidden on the sides behind the headliner.  The wood piece which accomplished this was about two feet long, curved to the outside of the body, curved to the top of the body, and tapered in a few directions.  The side of the headliner tacked to the back of this piece, then one had to wiggle a couple of screws in on each end before attaching rest of headliner.

 

My friend made new ones for me, and told me even after working on those woodies, it was the most complicated wood shape he’d ever made!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/11/2023 at 10:06 AM, trimacar said:

 

 

My friend made new ones for me, and told me even after working on those woodies, it was the most complicated wood shape he’d ever made!

And if the part gets noticed at all it probably never gets a second look. People tend to be awe struck by simple things while the truly difficult work tends to get burried deep enough in the car as to go unnoticed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Working my way around the fender and along the roof line. There are five pieces of wood that are finger jointed together to get around the fender and three along the roof line. None of the pieces have anything straight or square about them, lots of compound curves and angles. Getting the shape of a piece correct is just the first step, the finger joint then has to be cut at the right orientation such that it lines up with the adjoining pieces. Shaping these parts is time consuming, and the more time you get into making a piece the more costly a mistake becomes. There's no fixing an incorrectly cut finger joint, you throw the piece out and start over. Something that I like to do that was not done at the factory is to use a single board to make continuous parts such as these. I like to match grain and color as closely as I can, as opposed to randomely selected wood. This of course goes out the window if I cut a piece wrong and have to start over. Sometimes slower really is faster.

IMG_0016.JPG

IMG_0017.JPG

IMG_0018.JPG

IMG_0019.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"The more time you get into a piece the more costly a mistake becomes" is very true. That "measure twice cut once" adage comes into play here. I have had the router slip on the last step of a piece. I have also lost my concentration and routered in the wrong place on the last step of a piece. 

 

Is that another Town and Country in the background?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 3/5/2023 at 11:01 AM, Tom Boehm said:

"The more time you get into a piece the more costly a mistake becomes" is very true. That "measure twice cut once" adage comes into play here. I have had the router slip on the last step of a piece. I have also lost my concentration and routered in the wrong place on the last step of a piece. 

 

Is that another Town and Country in the background?

That Town and Country is one of my woodies. Dave was kind enough to take on re-veneering the trunk area. He did so for a VERY GOOD PRICE. What Dave charged me was less than what I expected. I like to do the framing and plywood work myself (even though I suck at it compared to a professional) but am completely unable to do any veneering. The car will be back in a few weeks, but the photos look amazing. 

 

Dave was VERY pleasant to work with and completed my project must faster than I had anticipated. I would reccommend him to anyone needing veneering work done (I would assume that his wood framing is just as good). 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How right you are about making a mistake with wood. On a steel car you can always weld up a hole and Bondo over it, with wood it's almost impossible to hide a mistake. One reason I purchased my wood from the Klein Family Workshop (R.I.P.), was the fact that all the structural wood came with pre-drilled holes where all the metal bracket's attached. It made the assembly of my '46 Ford Station Wagon wood so easy. Over the years I have seen several "Woodies" with "plugged" holes that were drilled in the wrong place. They always seem to stand out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drivers side quarter panel frame is done, still have the panel and inside trim but those are for later. Passenger side will be the same routine except that the original piece is missing the back section so will have to wing it there.

IMG_0026.JPG

IMG_0030.JPG

IMG_0028.JPG

IMG_0032.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Spent all of May and then some finishing the boat, but it's gone so I'm back to the car. Both quarter panels are done which means the roof is now in a fixed and permanent position. Next is to start filling in the holes. I'll probably start with the front doors and work my way back.

IMG_5378.JPG

IMG_5379.JPG

IMG_5380.JPG

IMG_5381.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/17/2023 at 9:18 AM, 46 woodie said:

Once again, beautiful work. What wood do you plan on using for the panels?

Sapele is what I've used on cars for this guy in the past and he seems to like it, so that's probably what this car will get.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

I don't see how the pros do it. I am worried when I assemble and glue up my doors, if any parts the joints are cut to a slightly wrong angle, the door won't fit perfectly like I want it to. When making the final product in ash, I can't whittle and glue pieces on to make it fit like I did with the pine mock ups. I thought of doing a pre-glue assembly with screws for a trial fit but that would leave unsightly holes where I don't want them. 

 

As usual, I really like it when you post these in progress photos.

Edited by Tom Boehm (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also lately I have been having difficulty finding thick ash necessary for my doors. I had enough but I did a final planing on a piece selected for my doors and I found some bug damage I could not work around. I had to replace the piece. I could get 2'' thick or 8/4 but not 2  1/2" thick that I need. I think I will cut the bad part off and laminate a piece on to make 2 1/2" thickness. I had to do that with some other pieces that were slightly too small. I carefully plan where to put the seam so the glue line is hidden. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The door frames are fit and glued in place, I try to leave a little extra wood around the edges and finish off the gaps after all the latching hardware is installed. Applying pressure to the joints while the glue dries requires a little creativity. One of the ways I do it is to glue some temporary clamping blocks around the joint. This is a finger joint in what will be the upper piece of one of the tailgate doors, but the principle is the same.

 

Have you tried Johnsons lumber? they show Ash up to 16/4 on their website, maybe not in stock?

IMG_5465.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, NewOldWood said:

This is a finger joint in what will be the upper piece of one of the tailgate doors, but the principle is the same.

I'd love to hear more about your finger joint cutter. I've not seen cutters available anywhere near that deep.

 

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/16/2023 at 9:33 AM, kar3516 said:

This is the most amazing wood project I’ve seen.  Not a single straight line anywhere in the wood; nothing but compound curves in three planes.  Amazing workmanship!

I agree- This workmanship is better than original. My '41 International I'm doing has essentially no finger joints at all (that's the way it was made and I have all the original exterior and interior wood, all except for two smaller pieces were fine with no rot). I'm thinking about adding some additional ash pieces on the interior around the rear interior fenders with finger joints just for fun, as they look cool.

 

Lovely work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

N.O.W., I have always fantasized about taking a '46-'48 Ford two door sedan and replacing everything from the roofline down with wood, similar to the Barrelback you are working on. What got the idea started was seeing a set of four, '46-'48 Woodie doors at HERSHEY and possibly using them during the build. Now that I see what you are doing it makes me realize that I must be out of my mind. I have been following all your builds and can't wait for the next installment of pictures. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...