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blind pew

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Everything posted by blind pew

  1. Get a hold of Mark Miller in CO. Phone 719-371-0929 He is talking about making '49 T&C kits
  2. Indeed- Tom is correct. There is a specific Town and Country site; I have a '49 Town and Country and have not had problems with the hydraulics, so unfortunately I can't help you. That one came already finished and did not require work on the top or anything else.
  3. No photos at all? Frame condition? Is the engine and tranny intact? How about the gauges and dash?
  4. The guy doing the dodge power wagon clear coated everything and it looks fantastic. I have always used marine varnish, but that is just out of habit. Some say the varnish has a more "warm" tone which clear coats have a slight bluish hue. I really don't buy that. It would be a hell of a lot easier to have an auto body shop shoot clear coat. When I do varnish, it is 8-10 coats and is a royal pain in the ass, as you have to lay down a decent base to being with, then progressively wet sand to get the really nice "glass" finish that everyone likes. I'm doing a '41 international right now and am choosing varnish rather than clear coat. I am just a glutton for punishment and enjoy the struggle. I do everything myself, which results in an amateur job, but its more fun.
  5. Agreed- You can keep all the hardwood frame in place, sanding it and varnishing it right there. However, when you varnish the doors (after plywood insertion) you should do that with the doors lying down to prevent running of varnish. You could simply varnish your plywood panels before inserting them as well. Make sure you use a sealer on the lower edges of the plywood to prevent delamination down the road. Again, do not varnish the plywood after it is inserted and vertical, as you will get runs and will get an awful finish. You have to put on several coats of varnish first to develop a "base" before progressively finer sanding to 2000 grit with wet sanding. Some guys spray auto clear coat and have very nice appearances.
  6. If you want to drive it a lot, do a mustang II front end with rack and pinion steering and disc brakes, as well as upgraded ford rear end with disc brakes. If you drive in the mountains, you will probably need a better engine to avoid overheating. Otherwise, you will be okay, unless you need to drive 70-75 on the interstate for longer distances. Custom Engineering and Fat Man make the front ends. Ford Explorer rear ends can be picked up anywhere. Three of my four woodies have modern suspensions and engines, which make them easy and reliable to drive.
  7. Tom Boehm, who is on this site restoring a LaSalle, is a master scrounger who has directed me to MANY parts.
  8. That's that one from ebay. That is a beauty. Restoration hardware will have all the rubber pieces. Chevs of the 40s has all the chevrolet parts. I would assume there is "cross over" with Olds. For other things, you can score woodie parts from different makers (like tailgate hardware). cmgford parts has such things. Lastly, ebay has a ton more than one would expect. I scored International interior pieces, radio, and heater off ebay, as well as knee shocks. There are maker specific forums all over the place. I would assume there is one for Olds as well in which one could score maker specific parts. The patina of the wood is fantastic- I would leave that alone, as it looks great.
  9. Chevrolet made the best ones, which were entire chrome window divider with the handle. I just picked up a pair on ebay for $100
  10. Thanks for the tip. Ash? That looks great. Mine are the original oak planks. I guess I will sand them down and try the caulking bit in situ. If it looks like crap, I can always lay an ash hardwood floor over the top.
  11. Got the handles and inside latch mechanism- they are identical to those used for the Campbell bodies. Hard to beat for $9 a pop.
  12. I am in awe of your work. I have a Campbell body on my '41 international as well. The modifications you have made make it look a lot better than the original. You do beautiful work. The original Campbell bodies had some "wonky" looking areas, particularly the lower interior part of the doors and were fairly crude. Not much at all in the way of finger joints and they used screws, rather than mortices and glue. I have been amazed when taking mine apart how tacky they were. That caulk on the oak looks awesome. I was thinking of putting a hardwood ash floor over that, but your oak with the caulk looks very cool. Did you just place that with a caulking gun in the gaps or did you use another method? That clear coat finish is something else! It looks like glass it is so well done. I am a bush leaguer and am just putting on marine varnish, which will not give as nice of a finish.
  13. Thanks for the leads. Wagon Works had the exact hardware used on the international. Treehouse had alot of hardware I didn't know about, but did not have the needed hardware (but a good future source). Again, thank you both for taking the time to respond and provide good information- I really appreciate it. Thanks again for the help, guys! The Wagon Works guy had an old International pickup when he was a kid, so he was fun to talk to- nice guy.
  14. Great tips! Evapo-rust? Sounds like good stuff. One of my kids lives in Ankeny, IA- I will ask him to check them out.
  15. '41 international KB3 with a campbell body. However, I can make most anything fit.
  16. Does anyone know a source to secure the inside latch/handle for tailgates? Mine is steel and is all rusty. I think a chroming shop would have trouble with it.
  17. They are not common, that is for sure. However, your LaSalle is the only LaSalle woodie I have ever heard of. That is going to be one beauty when you are done. I was a little reluctant to post some photos, as the quality of my work will not be as good as that of the other cars posted here. I do, however, just like doing the work myself, even though it will suck compared to what others will do. I am a better at the mechanical and do professional quality work there (weird- I am a physician, but have been working on cars since age 10). As a woodworker, I suck. I look in awe at the quality of woodworking done by you guys on your cars on this site. Question- why did you choose using veneer over the plywood, rather than just marine mahogany plywood? Better quality of grain? Smoother glassy appearance when done? It looks outstanding. I have that same look on my Chrysler T&C (it was already done when I bought it). My two chevrolets do not have that same appearance. Yes- some guys HATE dealing with old cars. I assume it is because they are many old car people who are WAY too meticulous and are a-holes to deal with. I always tell anyone else working on my cars that I am very flexible and easy to get along with, will not make unusual demands, and will offer them double the hourly rate they charge others. Most will take on the work, but others will refuse even that. That is why it is best to do EVERYTHING you CAN DO yourself on these cars, so that you are not reliant upon others. Additionally, it gives you better satisfaction. I like the cars I did myself better than the ones I bought already completed. Thanks for the support on the yellow. It actually was one of the factory colors, but my two boys thought the color choice was poor. I don't have any yellow cars either, so it will "fill a void in my life"!
  18. Thanks Tom- It is far more crude than your beautiful LaSalle, but yes- the ash was amazing, which is why I bought it. I plan on yellow for the metal so that I can apply a magnetic "tiger hawk" to the front quarter panels and drive it to Iowa hawkeye football games. Yellow and black are Iowa (my alma mater, but living in exile in Mo) colors. I thought the whole thing would take five years, but it is going much faster than anticipated, particularly since I can only work on it every two months. Yep- I'll stick with bare wood for the rear. I may put in an ash or hickory floor as well. I did that on another woodie using hardwood flooring and it looks pretty cool. The interior of the doors was kind of weird, in that there are "open" areas at the bottom of the door and not a continuous sheet of plywood (or masonite) going to the lower part of the door. On the inner rear side panels, I'm going to make "prettier" ash trim with finger or box joints. The actual interior ash pieces were no more than sticks and looked like crap. Also, the interior panels were masonite. I'm doing solid mahogany and mahogany plywood instead, as it looks better. The seats were this ugly green vinyl so I'm doing a nice coffee colored. I took the seats to one upholstery guy who said they were good for nothing but the dump. The second guy said they were in fantastic shape for their age and said it would be no problem at all!!!!
  19. pics from the farm. I have all the plywood panels cut and the pieces of ash replaced that needed it. Have removed the rear axle, fenders, and hood as well as the seats. i have a new front clip, hood, and fenders that are at the painter and the seats are at the upholstery shop. I finally decided upon a ford explorer rear end with 3.55 gear ratio, while keeping the old style leaf springs and knee shocks (replaced with new or refurbished). Will put a mustang II front end- just could not find all the replacement parts for the KB3 and want to drive it when I'm done. Using marine varnish for the finish and sealer for the plywood edges. I'll keep the rear deck bare oak rather than replacing with battleship linoleum.
  20. It looks like a good project. I would buy it, but I can’t get the email to go through.
  21. Interesting '52 buick with most of the wood there. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/menlo-park-1952-buick-woody-estate/7277446711.html Can't seem to be able to respond to the ad, though.
  22. Yep- Probably too much work. I have a '49 Chrysler T&C convertible that would help with an approximation of the doors, but that would be it. Mark Miller in CO has done quite a bit of work on T&C and apparently is thinking about making kits for the '49, as he does for the Chevy Country Club package. I may chat with him about it, as he has worked on several T&Cs. Of course, the '46-'48 is all wood on the doors and does not have the metal as was used on the'49.
  23. I saw that beat to hell '47 T&C sedan on ebay, which lacks the doors. It brings up the issue of where one would procure patterns for the doors (if possible). Any thoughts?
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