blind pew

Got my '49 Chrysler back from Dave (NewOldWood) a few days ago. It is really stunning. He does BEAUTIFUL veneering work for anyone who needs this done and he was very reasonably priced (far less than what I expected). An excellent experience with a beautiful finished product and a nice guy to work with!

That Town and Country is one of my woodies. Dave was kind enough to take on re-veneering the trunk area. He did so for a VERY GOOD PRICE. What Dave charged me was less than what I expected. I like to do the framing and plywood work myself (even though I suck at it compared to a professional) but am completely unable to do any veneering. The car will be back in a few weeks, but the photos look amazing. Dave was VERY pleasant to work with and completed my project must faster than I had anticipated. I would reccommend him to anyone needing veneering work done (I would assume that his wood framing is just as good).

Sure! I am in the resto-mod camp and have done so to all of my woodies, except one. Go with a Mustang II front end, A Ford Explorer rear end, and Chevy 350 V8 and Chevrolet automatic tranny. That is the standard "resto-mod" recipe. You will be able to drive anywhere in America without fear of over-heating and be able to drive down an interstate at 80 mph without problems. I have an international I am working on with a custom engineering Mustang II front end (they are out of business now) and a Ford Explorer rear end. I am putting in a '59 Straight 6 International engine with a 4 speed international manual tranny. Do WHAT YOU WANT. There are a lot of people who will say you are "ruining history" and to keep it stock. Well............................ haven driven stock woodies and restomods, there is no comparison. If you are just planning on driving your car around town and to shows, there is not much to be gained from resto-modding your car. If you plan to drive on longer trips, you need a more modern set up with a more powerful engine, disc brakes, and a modern suspension. Some of the older vehicles with split rim wheels are just plain dangerous to drive. Drum brakes in today's road conditions are not such a great idea. MANY of these vehicles are under powered and will overheat if you try to drive them in the mountains on a long road trip.

Your work is simply amazing and I'm in awe. But........................................... that's like telling a pretty girl that she's good looking- she already knows it!

Well.................................. One would probably replace the drive line anyway. What is more concerning is the fact that the structural wood appears to be riddled with termites. So basically you have patterns to start over with.

There is a 1950 Dodge woodie bus (it's huge) on ebay for a little over $13K. Needs total restoration, but has most of the ash there, There does appear to be termite damage on some of the ash, but at least the templates are there to make new pieces. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185687401830

That is fortuitous timing. I was just going to post that Dave (NewOldWood) can do these. I had found his name in the Woody Times after failing to find someone through the other links. I am going to send him the car to have a couple of panels done. Dave has an ad in the Woody Times or can be reached at dmartin@newoldwood.com

I called Dennis Bickford and he does not do veneering for T&Cs anymore. He gave me the number of John in Wisconsin, who also does not do the veneering anymore. I would do it myself, but it is actually a pretty involved process with quite the learning curve. I'll keep looking. I have some '49 Chrysler T&C parts (rear tail light housings) that are almost impossible to find to offer in trade for someone who would prefer that over cash. Oh well............................. if I can't find anyone it will just have to be Di-Noc.

Thanks!!!

I have a '49 chrysler T&C convertible. The framing of the wood is ash, but the internal panels are wood (mahogany) veneer. The problem is that is appears the trunk lid inner panel is in Dinoc, and not veneer. I have not worked with veneer on woodies. How difficult is it to apply to the trunk lid on a T&C? Is the veneer just extended laterally to go under the trunk lid framing? I would assume that any attempts at "wrapping" it (like vinyl) would cause splintering of the veneer. Thanks- Tom H

Here is what the gutters looked like on a 41 International

Yep- Had all new glass cut for my KB-3. It was all flat.

It makes a big difference as to whether it is a KB-1 or KB-3, as the KB-3 is much longer. I would assume you have a KB-1: there are a few members here that have KB-1s. I have a KB-3.

I have replaced MANY windows on woodies I have worked on in the past and currently. It all depends on your comfort level and working with your car. I consider window replacement to be a must (modern safety glass throughout) and is not a big deal. You tecnhically don't even need to pull the door off its hinges, but I always do anyway. It simply removing the door handle and window crank, unscrewing the ash borders, and unscrewing the plywood panel. It is all pretty easy stuff. I don't know why someone WOULD NOT replace a window. Heck, if you are concerned about it, I would bet that any auto glass automotive shop would be willing to install it for you, as it is pretty easy. Taking it apart gives you a chance to repaint the window mechanism and remove any rust. I always take the window mechanism out, sand it down, re-prime and repaint it with rust inhibitive paint. You just need some window adhesive to place in the window channel. You can re-grease the window mechanism and make it nice and smooth as well. I just replaced ALL THE GLASS on a '41 international woodie. Of everything I have had to do, that was one of the easiest tasks.

I think he will be okay with putting the final few coats in gloss. It might actually have a cool look to it.

Yup- The wood kit is from Mark Miller in Colorado. Nice kit and reasonably priced. He actually will do the trunk for you if you send the lid.

Don't have any more photos, as is back on my farm. When I get there, I'll get some more. I only get there once every four months or so.

Here is a woodie that I had built by someone else (didn't have time to do this one). It is a hot rod with 600 hp, six speed manual, discs, modern suspension, ect...............Obviously, those cars are not mean to be driven at high speeds, but it is fun to crank it up to 120 then back it down.

Well.............................. you can always put coats of gloss over it. I was toying with spraying the car I'm doing currently. I have sprayed panels before- I guess it is a little more smooth, but I always sand the crap out of finishes anyway. I have used tons of foam poly brushes. It is convenient, as you throw them away frequently. Maybe I'll try a high grade brush too.

Paint on the front metal. I've got a Ford Explorer rear end on it and a Mustang II style front end made specially by Custom Engineering out of Cedar Rapids, Iowa. I have pretty much all the wood refinished, just need to put it back on. Had to replace all the glass. I'm putting in a '59 International engine and four speed tranny, as I hate the non synchromesh transmissions that were original. The original engine only had 86hp, so needed an upgrade to drive on highways (not interstate). I've got a while to go, as I can only work on it a few days every four months and it is located out of state back on my farm. So................................................... bit by bit getting there- slowly but surely. Greg was nice enough to send the dimensions for the interior fenders, as the guy I originally had doing the painting (after all the metal was removed) LOST my interior fenders! Had to have new interior fenders built by a metal manufcaturing bunch. They are better than new, as they are a heavier guage of steel. I couldn't beleive that idiot actually lost them!!!!!

Nice work! Nice to see another chevrolet resurrected. I have a '48 chevrolet woodie that was finished about 20 years ago. It was Will O'Neil's car before he died. I modified mine to have a woodgrain dash and tore out the plywood rear deck and put in an ash deck- it looks better. The car looks pretty stock from the outside, but has a 400 hp chevrolet small block, with a Mustang II front end and a triangulated four bar rear end. Discs on front and rear. The only "stock" car I have is a '49 Chrysler town and country. I must say I prefer driving the resto mods, as they can be driven anywhere.

Sorry guys- I am an idiot about the finishes. I have always just used marine urethane coating, which seems to work well. I have four woodies (working on one now) and have never had problems with the marine urethanes, but the cars have always been garage kept and don't spend much time in the sun. So I can't help you with the multiple different finishes you are trying. I've always used a gloss finish, not satin. I've always tried to apply at least ten coats of the marine urethane, with progressive sanding as coats go on. I know it's easier to spray it, but I've always applied it with poly brushes, which seems to work okay. Do you guys brush or spray your finishes? I have usually placed everything flat to avoid runs. I have done some of the existing wood frames in situ on the vehicle and just take my time with multiple very thin coats, so I haven't had problems with runs. I'm sure you guys probably have better finishes, but I like to do most everything myself, so I will accept some imperfections that might drive others crazy.

Cool indeed! Is it done?

That is basically what I've done with my resto-mods. They look "stock" from the outside and on the interior. However, opening the hood or crawling underneath reveals a modern drive train. Doing the wood is fun. Just rely on pointers from the guys on the site who can do it well (Tom is one- the guy who did the Dodge Power Wagon did some amazing work). They are great resources.

You are FAR, FAR from a negative guy and your comments are always good ones. I certainly did not perceive our discussion about putting a modern drive train on that International as being hassled. You had some very good, valid points which I pondered carefully. I simply found it very, very difficult to secure original parts for the K3, so the decision was much easier. Now there are TONS of reproduction or original parts for the '48 chevrolet, so a decision to keep it stock is much easier.