blind pew

Try here: https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cart.php

More K3 questions- The K3 has hubs with 6 bolts, as opposed to K1 and K2s, which have 5. I have found a wildwood disc brake application for the 5 bolt K1, but not for the 6 bolt K3. I would like to retain the original hubs, if possible, and find a disc brake application. Having been spoiled by discs, I am a little reluctant to keep drums on a vehicle. For that matter, shoes and drums for the drum brakes appear to be a little hard to come by. Any thoughts on disc brake applications for a K3? I have contacted Wilwood and asked if they could custom make an application as well. However, if one knows about an existing kit, that would obviously be more convenient (and lower cost). Tom H

I guess then ANY after market bumper would be appropriate, even using a front bumper on the rear. As the vehicles we restore would be parked in towns, a rear bumper would be helpful.

For those looking in the future- The rear leaf springs are 51 inches with the "A" and "B" arms of equal length. One simply needs to find leaf springs from ANY manufacturer with those dimensions and the appropriate width for the hangers. Off the top of my head, I believe that is either 2.5 or 2.25 inches width. General spring out of Kansas City says they can custom make such springs. I do not know the price yet, but that is probably what I will do. I was able to secure some NOS knee shocks as well. Those are a little tough to find and I assume that people would be looking for modern conversions instead.

Found that out. It seemed weird that was the case. Thus very few, if any, available.

Thanks- but tried that site already and they do not have the parts.

Hello- Anyone know good sources for original brake and suspension parts for a 41 international K3 one ton? Trying to keep a vehicle close to original. If I can't find the parts, will have to "resto mod" the vehicle, which would be a shame.

Well...……………………………………….. I found out that rear bumpers were AN OPTION! Kind of weird. Found a front bumper on ebay.

In the process of collecting parts for a restoration of a 41 K3 Woodie. Oddly, MOST of the parts are not tough to find. Oddly, bumpers, which are usually easy to come by, are hard to find. Does anyone know where one could come by front and rear bumpers for an international Kb-3? They seem as though they would be fairly generic, and very similar to chevy bumpers of the same period. However, there are only three mounting holes in the international and five in the chevy bumpers. Any thoughts?

Thanks Tom! Pictures...………………………… I was just there for four days (vacation time) working on the damn thing and did not take photos. I'll be there in September and will get some good photos. I am amazed that essentially all of the wood (even the plywood) is good. I stripped off the old exterior varnish and the exterior is already ready to be bleached. The engine turns over (unexpected) and there is just surface rust on the undercarriage and body. I think this is going to be far less work than your beautiful Lasalle. Heck, if I was retired I could have that thing in great shape in a few months. The weird thing is on the interior panels there is this "particle board" stuff instead of plywood. EVERYTHING on this car/truck is original, which is pretty cool. The mechanicals on these are very simple and not tough to work on. In addition, they are "over engineered" and built like a tank. The door handles and window cranks are not chromed, but have a duller nickel type finish. I assume this was because the war was impending and there were shortages already. The rear deck still has the "battleship linoleum" and the seats are mostly intact. One will not even have to be re-upholstered.

I have a 41 international Woodie K3. I am wondering about window channel "whiskers", rubber seals, window regulators, ect……………………………… Does anyone know- 1. whether the IH truck parts for the pickup fit the Woodie? 2,. Are there other car/truck makers that used Campbell bodies that have rubber parts and window channels that are more readily accessible? 3. How about window regulators and door latches? Fortunately, I have ALL the parts and they are in pretty good shape, except everything rubber needs to be replaced. All the wood is in surprisingly excellent shape, as is the body, frame ect. Thanks for any help,.

It's a four speed manual and is not a synchromesh tranny.

Hello- I have a project for which I am getting plans ready for restoring a 41 international woody wagon on an international one ton truck frame. The manual transmission is non synchromesh (the double clutch shifting), which is a royal pain in the ass to drive. I have driven those trannies and think they are somewhat dangerous when stopping on an uphill stop sign or light. Thus, in order to make it more driver friendly, I would like to put in another international manual tranny, but one that has a synchromesh manual tranny such that it will be far easier to drive. Anyone have any thoughts on an international manual transmission that would be compatible with the 214 green diamond engine without a lot of fabrication required?

The car was delivered to my farm last week (one of my boys put it in the barn). I have taken time off in mid August and will go evaluate the situation. From the photos, it appears as though I may be able to use most of the wood; just bleaching and refinishing involved. Also, all of the rust is just surface, so I can use all the sheet metal. Those cars are really quite simple mechanically and this will not be that hard of a restoration. As I live in a different state, however, the restoration will be "piecemeal" until I reach retirement. The main thing will be to see if I can turn over the engine by hand after shooting some tranny fluid in the spark plug holes over a few days. I have not encountered one engine where I was not eventually able to turn it over; this one sat in a barn, so the damage to the engine will not be as bad as an outside vehicle.

Thanks! That will make things a lot easier. That old flat head 6 is "charming" and I would like to do what I can to keep that in the engine bay. Thanks very much!

Does anyone know if they make a stroker kit for a 214 6 cylinder flathead? That would preserve the old engine while providing enough hp for highway driving. I am not looking to put that vehicle on an interstate; however, going only 45mph on two lane highways can be a traffic hazard. I have seen where some have taken Plymouths and fords of roughly the same engine size (3.5L) which they have stroked with success. The non synchromesh tranny is not such a big issue. They are somewhat of a pain to drive, but I have a 42 White halftrack with nearly the same tranny that can be mastered. The halftrack has nearly the same engine and is great to drive around on the farm, but not so much on anything but less traveled gravel roads. It comes in pretty handy if a tractor gets stuck or we need to pull something. It is awesome to be able to run over small trees without too much difficulty.

Because it needed to be rescued and I needed another project. One of my hobbies is building stone structures; I had the foundation poured to build another house on my farm. However, health issues preclude me from repetitive lifting, thus I needed a project that I can physically handle. The advantage of doing a car is that one is confronted with different problems and features on each vehicle, so it is a tremendous learning experience. As you know, it is a practice of incrementalism. I am leaning toward keeping the original engine and simply changing the rear end gear ratio. Those things were made with very short gear ratios and designed for hauling at slower speeds. 83 hp and 146 ft/lbs of torque tells the story. It is not unlike the engine in my White half track, which was designed for the same purpose. Also, "double clutch" driving is a learning curve! The mechanical simplicity of the vehicle is charming. When I am done, it will look like a new car/truck and have saved it from deteriorating into a heap.

I can see your points. I have stock cars and resto-mods. I like both and have never tried to reproduce a modern car from a vintage car, but just make something that won't overheat when at altitude and won't be a road hazard on the way to a destination. I guess I will restore the drivetrain but simply change the rear gear ratio so I am not hitting high rpms at 45 mph.

One of the problems with this particular model is the drivetrain. It has an 83 hp engine and a rear end that is geared rather "short". As a result, my understanding is that this vehicle can only achieve top speeds of 45 mph, which would preclude any highway driving and/or driving for any distance. Obviously, keeping an original car stock would be nice, but in a stock condition could only be driven short distances on two lane highways.

Just purchased a 41 K3 Woodie as a project. Overall, it is in very restorable condition. The issue is the drivetrain; my understanding is that the K3 had an 86 HP engine and that the rear end ratio was rather short such that these could only travel at 40-45 mph with the stock engine. Is that correct? Obviously, such speeds would preclude driving the car any distance and certainly not on a four lane road. I would like to preserve the original drivetrain, but am leaning toward a crate engine and modern suspension and tranny such that it could actually be driven on highways. Any thoughts?

I guess you are right- it would be a shame to resto-mod it when all the parts are there. You can get most of the engine parts; they are not plentiful, but not impossible. The gasket rebuild kits and valves are readily available, as well as kits to rebuild the carbeurator, fuel, water, and oil pumps. Connecting rods, cam, and pistons will be "hit and miss". Rebuilding the clutch and tranny won't be that bad. We're from the same neck of the woods- we live in Cape Girardeau. That was indeed a good find regarding the Lasalle.

Hello Tom (also a Tom here) I don't know what company built it, as I have yet to have it delivered to my farm. I will be able to take a closer look then. I guess the options are Campbell or Iona, right? Yes- always best to have beetles/termites treated BEFORE the vehicle arrives. I sent a gallon of Boracare to the seller, who will treat it before shipping. I had beetles and termites in my '48 Chevrolet before I restored it about 20 years ago. It is certainly odd how the outer varnish shell remains, but behind the areas of infestation, it was like honeycombed Styrofoam. When it arrives, I will treat again with Timbor and Boracare. It will initially be in my 150 year old barn that I restored- can't have such critters wrecking the old timbers. I plan on doing the whole thing myself as I like the struggle. You certainly learn a ton during such processes, and that is a part of the attraction. Of course, it would be easier just to send it to a shop and have someone else do it, but there is no fun in that. Most of the wood appears to intact and much of it actually may be useable as is; one never knows until you get into it. This is going to be a project for me extending into retirement, as health issues have prevented me from building another stone house on my farm (I enjoy doing stonework, but it is a little too much manual labor for me at this point). I have three other woodies to drive, so I am in no hurry. Certainly a factor is consideration of "road worthy" condition; a resto-mod can go anywhere, but a stock old car has its limitations and is not suitable for interstate driving. Likewise, over heating in elevation limits drives to certain areas and there is not a plethora of parts at your local garage, should you run into mechanical trouble. Regarding the drivetrain, I have not decided whether to restore the engine and tranny or put in a crate engine and new tranny. Likewise with the suspension- restore or mustang II on the front and triangulated four bar on the rear. It actually costs more to restore, as one has to use a machine shop for some of the engine work. Some think rebuilding an engine is just dropping in new parts; I wish it was that easy. All the grinding and precision work must be done by a machine shop to avoid disaster. I have enjoyed watching the restoration of your LaSalle- it is a beauty. I have made wooden parts for my Chevrolet as well, but did not have to do the whole body. Yes- as I get to it, I would love to "pick your brains" on tips. The wood on this is less challenging than your Lasalle, as many of the parts are only shaped in two dimensions. It is that third dimension of curve that makes things a little tricky. I have looked at your Lasalle and wondered where the hell you came across it. It is not like Lasalle woodies are readily available, even if one pursued that aggressively.

Just purchased this international K series woodie for a retirement project. I have a few other woodies ('48 Chevrolet fleetmaster, '49 T&C convertible, '47 Chevrolet country club); I restored the '48 myself about 20 years ago and it remains like a new car. I had to replace several wood pieces on the 48, so have experience with that component (a painful learning curve) and can do the mechanical work as well. This piece has powder post beetles. However the seller has examined the wood and it is not "honeycombed" and I sent Boracare to him to treat prior to shipping. Obviously, wood will need to be replaced and the whole thing completely redone, but the parts are all there and the rust is only surface. These undertakings are not for the faint of heart, but been there, done that and I enjoy "the struggle" and learning about the particulars of a car when I work on it. Those green diamond engines are really quite simple and there are rebuild kits available. The suspension on those 1 ton internationals are built like tanks and may be useable as it is now. The electrical as well is quite simple and wiring harnesses are available. I have a complete shop on my farm (it will reside next to my '42 halftrack for the time being) to do the work and will do so on vacation time prior to going full bore when retired. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/international/unspecified/2400510.html

Contact one of the commercial woodie restoration shops. One would think that they would sell you such plans/information. Additionally, they do sell individual needed wooden parts as well as complete kits. Of course, one could "throw in the towel" and send the whole thing to shop to be assembled. There is satisfaction in doing it yourself, but your final product won't look as good as those done by the shops. Read Rick Mack's section on bleaching and varnishing on the "old woodies" site. Lots of sanding with different grits involved. Don't use a brush- either spray it or use the cheap sponge brushes, otherwise you will leave brush marks and an occasional bristle in the finish. It's going to be tough to get a finish that looks like the shops get, unless you have a very nice, dust free environment. Oddly, the parts that are the hardest to get looking nice are the plywood panels. I've come to the conclusion that to get the look you want, you need to purchase high quality veneer to place over the plywood. I've done that on individual panels, but would really want a press if I was doing the whole car (thus I would have one of the shops do it- far less of a pain in the ass). You may want to contact the guy restoring the Lasalle on this site, as he is in the process of doing exactly that at this time.