Angelfish Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 I bought this car in 2019 as a project that had been started many years ago and then abandoned. It was straight, rust free and partially disassembled. Three years later I'm making some real headway on it and that is where I'm going to need some help. Some parts were missing, some parts from other cars were included, and some things were reassembled incorrectly. I'm not good at keeping up with a thread so additions will be spotty. November 2019: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted December 18, 2022 Author Share Posted December 18, 2022 Three years later it looks like this. The exhaust system was missing and I could use pictures of the hangers, especially above the rear axle. And I need to know if I have the intemediate rod set up correctly before I install it. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Holy cow. Where did you buy that out of? California? Did it come with a later 401 engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, lancemb said: Holy cow. Where did you buy that out of? California? Did it come with a later 401 engine? It was manufactured in Kansas City and spent most of it's life in Kansas. I bought it in Denver but it hadn't been there long. No indication that it lived anywhere other than Kansas. In addition to dismantling what appears to have been a perfectly good car, someone rattle canned the entire frame and suspension, linkages, parking brake cable, etc, so I ended up having the frame painted. The transmission was finished about a week ago. The engine is the original to the car and has standard pistons so I assume it's still a 364. It was changed over to the larger 401 valves at some point before I got it. It was reassembled with lithium grease and was almost seized from the hard grease on the connecting rods. It took a month of soaking and cleaning in warm ATF to get the rods freed up. If you look at the engine in the back (not the Jaguar straight 6) the oil filter housing and oil filler caps were the color that is now on the valve covers, it appears the original color is what the valve covers are currently. The block color was added at the rebuild. I know Buick engine colors is a popular debate topic. It came with a trunk full of parts that I am starting to sort through. Edited December 19, 2022 by Angelfish (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) Okay thanks. Sounds like quite a puzzle. I asked because that pic with the red overspray looks just like one I sold on Ebay about 10 years ago that was originally a red and white car and was also totally solid and straight, and firewall and inner edges of fenders had already been sprayed. I was pretty sure that car had gotten put back together by the buyer but thought perhaps I was mistaken. I hadn't read the title carefully enough though as I see now this is a 4 door and mine was a coupe. Edited December 19, 2022 by lancemb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 On 12/18/2022 at 10:49 AM, Angelfish said: And I need to know if I have the intemediate rod set up correctly before I install it. It looks logical. Different than my 55 where I found the layout in a 58 "Buick Wholesale Parts Guide"...I could not find newer one. Service manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 The manual is a little vague about the arrangement of internal parts, this is a pretty good guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted December 22, 2022 Share Posted December 22, 2022 On 12/19/2022 at 6:40 PM, Angelfish said: The manual is a little vague about the arrangement of internal parts, this is a pretty good guess. From my 1960 Buick parts manual 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 How vital is the fan shroud in a non-ac car? Mine appears to be missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Pretty vital to engine cooling. 57's always run pretty warm and not much airflow underhood coming in through the grille. The shroud assists in keeping airflow channelled to come through the radiator for cooling If its not there, you don't have efficient controlled airflow and overheating becomes a real problem. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 @Angelfish I am pretty sure I have a fan shroud if you need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 2 hours ago, lancemb said: @Angelfish I am pretty sure I have a fan shroud if you need one. Well, I don't seem to have it. A local junkyard has a 57 that I've robbed a number of parts from but I don't remember if it has the shroud. I do need a pair of mufflers, that will be next. And a rear section of the exhaust is missing but I have to figure out which side. Pretty soon I'll be asking about how the hangers are located. I'll put a list together and let you know what I come up with. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 Sounds like a great plan. And if Lance doesn't have the parts you need, I might have them as well. I got lots of 40 -60 series parts...lots... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 What I learned while installing the front springs: 1: Don't make it harder than it is. 2: If if takes more than an hour to install one side, see number 1. In my defense it's a bare frame with no engine, so I'm going to say that makes it harder. Long story (about 3 hours) short, we fought the first one fruitlessly for, well, 3 hours, before succeeding. But we did learn a few things and the second side took, literally, 12 minutes. 3: There are three tabs on the underside of the frame that align the spring in a pocket, mark these with white tape so you can see them when you shine a light up there trying to see if the spring is aligned. Just doing this saved 20 minutes. 4: Crack the upper ball joint loose so you have more space for the spring. 5: Jack up the front of the frame as high as you dare, again, more space for the spring. 6: Have someone to help you. 7: Securely fasten the spring insulator to the top if the spring with narrow strips of strong tape. It crossed my mind after that it may be possible to glue the insulator into the aforementioned spring pocket. 8: A strong ratchet strap is a necessity. I hooked the ratchet strap to the opposite side of the frame, ran it across the top of the frame, around under the A arm in question, back up over, terminating again on the opposite side. Make sure the strap isn't snagged on any of about 500 things that can snag it. 9: Holding the spring into the upper pocket, run the spring compressor down from the top, protecting the upper shock mount with wood blocks. Tighten it enough to prevent the spring falling out (see #3). 10: A smaller strap was also helpful, this one hooked near the bottom of the spring, looped around the opposite side of the frame and back to me. Pulling the strap pulled the spring into the lower spring pocket. 11: The lower spring pocket is molded roughly to the shape of the bottom coil, there is a specific location for the end of the coil to sit. To align in this spot, point the end of the coil at the rear tire if working the the drivers' side, not quite parallel to the frame. It doesn't look right while you're assembling it but it comes out pretty close. Passenger side aims forward the equivalent way. 12: Alternate spring compressor and ratchet strap to crank up the A arm. The strap was far more effective than I would have thought, born more out of desperation. 13. A floor jack under the A arm works nicely as an assist for the strap and also helped keep the spring from popping out on the bottom. Just keep it off your strap. 14: Ratchet and compress your way until the ball joint pin is ready to insert. We found that the strap was more effective in the last few inches. 15: Thread on the castle nut, tighten it to 40#, and alternate ratchet and compressor to let it back down. 16: If you had a spring compressor long enough to reach all the way through the spring to the bottom A arm, well, that would just be too easy. 2 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 13, 2023 Author Share Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) How do I loosen up this inner bearing race on the front spindle? It is supposed to "creep," according to the manual, but the removal instructions are a little vague. Now as I sit here I wonder if a strap wrench would work. But if you have a suggestion for the non destructive removal I'd take it. Edited January 13, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 It should be a close fit and come off by hand. Try cleaning up the spindle with some emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper. It looks like there's some rust spots that might interfere with removal. Hit it with some WD-40. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 EmTee is right, it should come off by hand. Maybe after you've emory clothed the spindle, try some 50/50 ATF - Acetone mix on it and let it set for a day or so. Then try to remove it. That mix should loosen it up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 14, 2023 Author Share Posted January 14, 2023 It's locked on tight. No movement in any direction. I've been using PB blaster periodically and tapping it with a wood block but nothing yet. Not a big deal, just another delay getting it back on its wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 I'd consider loosening the brake backing plate and then using that as a press to push it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 The backing plate would slide right past it. Pair of channel locks with a bit of protection from the teeth...rock back and forth while spraying penetrating fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 The picture seems to show the grease seal against the backing plate so I am unsure if the backing plate would slide over the race or not. But if it did then one may have clear access to tap against the race with a suitable drift and BFH. Of course that is likely to result in damage to the race just like anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 If the race is in good shape the spindle may be galled from a previous bearing failure. Cut the race off and replace the bearing set. Spindle may need replacement too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Maybe the spindle be knurled if the fit is too loose. Or, what about using Locktite or flange sealant on the new race if it is a little loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonomatic Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Could you heat the race with a Mapp gas torch and expand it just enough to get it to move or would that be taking a chance on ruining the temper of the part? That is a really nice car. Not much more that some cleaning and that old gal looks great on the inside. Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 15, 2023 Author Share Posted January 15, 2023 1 hour ago, Sonomatic said: Could you heat the race with a Mapp gas torch ... Thank you! I do have a propane torch, not sure it that gets hot enough. I should be able to chase down a Mapp cylinder. Can I heat the race without damaging it? What color does it turn when it's the right temperature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Try without heat first. It’s probably just stuck on with old dried up geese. I don’t see anything that would indicate it was overheated at any point in the past. keep it simple, then break out the hot wrench if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 17, 2023 Author Share Posted January 17, 2023 Bearing race has been solved. Propane torch was hot enough. Tiny bur inside the race like they got a little rough on the install, emery cloth took care of that. This clears the way to put the wheels on which in turn allows the engine to go in. 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Great - that's the best-case scenario! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) Dropped in the engine yesterday. You get all geared up for a big project and then when it takes 20 minutes it's almost disappointing. But not really. The engine dropped right in, this car wants to get back on the road so we'll have to make sure it happens. All four tires and an engine for the first time since 2019. Edited January 22, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) All accompanied by Mark Knophler Edited January 22, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) But it wasn't all champagne and roses. My poor shop manual just couldn't take it anymore and started shedding pages. It's almost 70 years old so it didn't do too bad. I ran over to the local UPS store and she spiral bound it for me. Too big so she had to split it into two. Photocopied the cover for the second one and put clear covers over the top. All for the extravagant sum of $4.50 . Edited January 22, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 How to I know if I have the fuel pump arm riding on the cam correctly? It popped in nicely but now I just have to hope that I got it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 It's pretty much impossible to install it wrong. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted April 13, 2023 Author Share Posted April 13, 2023 (edited) With any luck I'll be back to the Buick for a while. The last few months weren't all wasted, I did manage to write and produce a western melodrama play with my daughter and a number of her friends from high school, got a some things done around the house including the decorative ceiling in the library, missing trim pieces and a new floor in the garage. AND I picked up a 1982 Mercedes Benz 380SL. Needs a few things here and there but it runs and drives nicely, (and the vacuum locks work!) I have to say I really like the little thing. It's currently at the muffler shop with a severed Y pipe but should have it back soon. As far as the Buick, on to exhaust. I could use some pictures of the routing and hangers, if anyone had something handy. And the gas tank. I tumbled it last fall and it's clean and ready for sealing. I have the Bill Hirsch gas tank kit, but I'd accept advice for the outside. Current plan is to remove the surface rust and shoot it with cold galvanize, then maybe undercoat the underside for rock puncture protection. Edited April 13, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted April 13, 2023 Author Share Posted April 13, 2023 (edited) I assume these are part of the exhaust hangers, I have these and a new exhaust system with mufflers and resonators. Edited April 13, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted April 19, 2023 Author Share Posted April 19, 2023 Are there correct exhaust hangers available? I was looking at some of the pictures of similar cars (thank you Lance) but I can't see the hangers in any of them. The exhaust was missing altogether so I don't what the hangers look like. I assume I can use universals over the axles but ahead and behind the mufflers looks like something else, and behind the resonators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted April 20, 2023 Share Posted April 20, 2023 (edited) You will probably have to fabricate something using aftermarket brackets for most. I am not aware of duplicates of originals being sold. For the ones in the back behind the resonators, the picture above shows that you have one that looks usable and the other one is partly missing. I can't tell which side it is from the picture but if you show it from the top demonstrating which way it's pointing I can tell; I probably have s good used one for the other side. If I remember I can take some pictures this weekend of all of them. Edited April 20, 2023 by lancemb (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted May 9, 2023 Author Share Posted May 9, 2023 Thank you to Lance for the exhaust system pictures, mine was missing so he provided some good information. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted June 23, 2023 Author Share Posted June 23, 2023 All the inside front sheet metal is back from the paint shop. Prior to the Buick I did a 1949 Ford truck. The inside sheet metal - inner fenders, valance, that sort of thing - on the Ford consisted of 5 pieces. The Buick has 18, +/- a few, I lost count. Thankfully, Hometown Buick has a very nice drawing of all these bits and pieces so I should be able to work out how they go back together. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted July 29, 2023 Author Share Posted July 29, 2023 (edited) I got the exhaust run to the rear axle so there goes my excuse for not trying to start this thing. I'll get the oil primed and review the break in information. Which position is PARK, referring to the shift lever visible in the center of the transmission. And a little but of information on plumbing the top end. I've looked at many nailheads but wasn't able to find everything I needed. Carter WDG (wgd?) 2 barrel carburetor. There is an inlet in the automatic choke housing that connects to a line that runs toward the firewall. Where does this line connect? The oil pressure takeoff is back there but that's all I've found. What thread is the fuel inlet on the bowl? What is the correct fuel line diameter? Second picture is the brass 90* fitting on the intake. Where does this connect? Third picture, outlet on the firewall side of the carb. I'm guessing this is where you would connect the vacuum for the wipers? Fourth, this is my best guess for the pedal start mechanism. Fifth, I'm assuming the two smaller outlets near the water pump are for the heater lines. I was just going to jump these with a short piece the the initial testing. Edited July 29, 2023 by Angelfish (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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