sebastienbuick Posted November 15, 2022 Author Share Posted November 15, 2022 16 hours ago, DonMicheletti said: The AC 45's are non resistor a okay thank you, the SP45R are better than the AC 45 ? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted November 15, 2022 Author Share Posted November 15, 2022 Hello, I wanted to buy the oil filter on the second site that you offered me, but with the shipping costs and customs fees (not counting the costs on arrival in France), the oil filter costs 75 € . I searched with the NAPA reference and found these two ads. Do you know these two websites ? https://www.usafilterstore.com/napa-1001-wix-51001-h-d-oil-filter.html https://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/51001.html Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingrudy Posted November 15, 2022 Share Posted November 15, 2022 On 11/11/2022 at 5:50 PM, neil morse said: I'm not sure why you say that. It looks original to me, and is labeled "AC Kleer Kleen," which was original equipment on the '41s. That's what my '41 Super has. Looks exactly as what is on my '40 also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 16, 2022 Share Posted November 16, 2022 I'd be surprised if there isn't a filter available locally that interchanges. I found a pretty extensive list of supposedly equivalent filters here: https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/LUBERFINER/P70 Maybe you can check local suppliers to see whether they can get any of the filters shown on the list above... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted November 17, 2022 Author Share Posted November 17, 2022 On 11/15/2022 at 11:37 PM, kingrudy said: Looks exactly as what is on my '40 also. 13 hours ago, EmTee said: I'd be surprised if there isn't a filter available locally that interchanges. I found a pretty extensive list of supposedly equivalent filters here: https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/LUBERFINER/P70 Maybe you can check local suppliers to see whether they can get any of the filters shown on the list above... Good morning and thank you for your answers . I removed the oil filter, and the filter part number is 551001 . I only remember in Toulouse (big city 1 hour from my house), that there is the US auto parts store. I contacted him yesterday and sent them pictures, and they'll let me know if they have that . I also looked at the spark plugs, and the part number is AC DelcoR45 . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 27 minutes ago, sebastienbuick said: I also looked at the spark plugs, and the part number is AC DelcoR45 . Yes, those are the spark plugs. Originally they would have been "45". The "R45" is the same tip configuration and heat range, but includes an internal resistor for radio static suppression. The R45 will work fine and they are still available from AC. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted November 17, 2022 Author Share Posted November 17, 2022 5 hours ago, EmTee said: Yes, those are the spark plugs. Originally they would have been "45". The "R45" is the same tip configuration and heat range, but includes an internal resistor for radio static suppression. The R45 will work fine and they are still available from AC. Alright, thanks for the info ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 (edited) Sebastian, I'm just catching up on this, so congratulations to you and your parents for getting such a lovely car! As you've already noticed these are great driving cars, as well as having great styling. As you may or may know I have a '41 as well, a Canadian built Roadmaster, and for a totally manual car it's very easy to drive. Keith Edited January 7, 2023 by Buicknutty (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 On 1/7/2023 at 6:29 PM, Buicknutty said: Sebastian, I'm just catching up on this, so congratulations to you and your parents for getting such a lovely car! As you've already noticed these are great driving cars, as well as having great styling. As you may or may know I have a '41 as well, a Canadian built Roadmaster, and for a totally manual car it's very easy to drive. Keith Hello and thank you for my parents Yes we love this Buick, it is superb and very pleasant to drive Yes I saw your Buick and it is superb! Here are pictures of what me and my brother gave my parents for Christmas 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 That's one awesome model Sebastian! Nice group of literature, I have the exact two on the left, but a different shop manual. Lovely brochure, isn't it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted January 11, 2023 Author Share Posted January 11, 2023 20 hours ago, Buicknutty said: That's one awesome model Sebastian! Nice group of literature, I have the exact two on the left, but a different shop manual. Lovely brochure, isn't it? Thank you Buicknutty! OK, yes, these are very nice brochures ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 Hello everyone, here is some news from the Buick 41 . Regarding the oil filter that we were talking about the last time, it's good we've had it for some time now as well as the oil and the drain seal, so now there's more than 5 minutes to find drain . We also looked at the car in more detail to see what needed to be done first and I had to find and order a new 6V coil and rewire the coil. And I also have to look at the handbrake which I think remains a little blocked and makes it difficult to move the buick freewheeling by pushing it. The brakes are new and adjusted but the colleague vaguely told me about the handbrake, so to see why it blocks. Then my parents wanted to redo the chrome because some were pitted, others were already chrome and sound in good condition but they are rusty inside, and the bumpers were painted gray to imitate chrome. So let's take it all apart ! And we start with the rear bumper Inside there is a sheet that covers another sheet on the body, and as you can see it is twisted. So soon I will straighten this sheet metal, sand it and paint it Removing the " bananas " from the bumper The bumper is ready And now the front bumper Disassembly of the bumper We can see a sticker, the original one ?? license plate holder As you can see, although it has already been re-chromed the interior is rusty The " bananas " are in good condition but they will also fade to chrome plating 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 Then the turn signal chromes which are damaged The original wiring harnesses for the turn signals go through the socket and go directly into the engine compartment. And so if you have to remove a wing or a turn signal, you are stuck by the cable as you can see And the former owners couldn't find anything better than cutting the cables and connecting them in an "unprofessional" way It was glued to the lap And for the other side they did the same but in the bulb holder But on the other hand there was no protection between the two wires which almost touched the socket Disassembly It's not pretty pretty This seal is very dry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 The turn signal globe is targeted from the inside They made beautiful pieces at the time, and we are afraid of dropping it and breaking it. The globe is not in superb condition Then disassembly of the Buick logo from the trunk, it is a beautiful piece composed of several parts We can see the chrome which is damaged Disassembly Then remove the rear lights Who was fixed by that... Disassembly Interesting piece this "eye" The joints are very dry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 Then dismantling the front headlight surrounds which are made of stainless steel, and the top part and another material which is chrome And its inner seal is in poor condition The Buick is missing some of its chrome In all with my two small parts for my Buick 69 that makes about 26 chrome parts and we will receive them within 1 month / 1 month and a half . And my parents placed an order at Bob's automobilia (a great site where they only make Buicks up to the beginning of the 1960s and you can find almost everything new), and they will order new front headlight bezels (one is well dented and they are a little tarnished), gasket and clips for the headlight rings, new indicator globe, indicator gasket, taillight gasket, Buick logo gasket from the trunk which was missing, ... A good order that should arrive quickly And before all that happens with the chrome I have to take care of straightening this sheet of the rear bumper and redo the wiring of the indicators . 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 22, 2023 Author Share Posted March 22, 2023 Hello, we took the steering wheel apart to have it repaired and my parents would like to change the chrome bezel of the horn because it is broken. Do you know where we can find this strapping in good condition ? this one has one out of three branches broken as can be seen in the photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 22, 2023 Share Posted March 22, 2023 Normally I would also suggest Dave Tachney. I believe he is located in the state of Minnesota. The problem is he is best reached by phone at 763-427-3460 between 4:00 and 7:00 pm in the US Central Time Zone. As an alternative, I found these listings on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=1941+buick+horn+ring&_sacat=0 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 9 hours ago, EmTee said: Normally I would also suggest Dave Tachney. I believe he is located in the state of Minnesota. The problem is he is best reached by phone at 763-427-3460 between 4:00 and 7:00 pm in the US Central Time Zone. As an alternative, I found these listings on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=1941+buick+horn+ring&_sacat=0 Thank you so much ! I will look at it Do you know how the horn works? do you have to press or pull the chrome strapping to honk ? The horn does not work and I would like to repair it, do you know the breakdown of the horn mechanism? here are pictures of the interior. In looks like there are three carbons under each chrome branch to make contact. Is it a + or the mass coming to the horn ? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Push the chrome ring to sound the horn. I think pressing on the center button will also do it, but that takes more pressure than pressing somewhere on the horn ring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 23 minutes ago, EmTee said: Push the chrome ring to sound the horn. I think pressing on the center button will also do it, but that takes more pressure than pressing somewhere on the horn ring. Hello, okay, thank you for the information. And thanks for the ads on Ebay, I just showed it to my parents and they just ordered a new chrome bezel for the horn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted March 23, 2023 Share Posted March 23, 2023 Good! I am pretty certain that the shop manual describes how the horn ring attaches to the wheel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 23, 2023 Author Share Posted March 23, 2023 6 hours ago, EmTee said: Good! I am pretty certain that the shop manual describes how the horn ring attaches to the wheel. Yes the ring is fixed by 3 nuts inside the center of the steering wheel . Normally we should soon receive all the seals from Bob's automobilia, and the chrome should arrive soon too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 On 3/22/2023 at 11:20 PM, sebastienbuick said: Do you know how the horn works? do you have to press or pull the chrome strapping to honk ? The horn does not work and I would like to repair it, do you know the breakdown of the horn mechanism? here are pictures of the interior. In looks like there are three carbons under each chrome branch to make contact. Is it a + or the mass coming to the horn ? It's been a while since I had the steering wheel off my '41, but I think this is how it works: The positive current is in the wire that comes up through the steering column. The brass-colored plate on the back of the center hub in your photos makes contact with the spring-loaded fitting on the wire where it comes out of the center of the steering column. To activate the horn, you push on the horn ring which causes one of the three spokes to make contact with the hub of the steering wheel which grounds the horn circuit. I remember that the adjustment is a bit tricky and you may have to remove and replace the horn ring several times before you get it right. The adjustment is by means of those three insulated nuts on the back plate. I think if the nuts are too tight, the horn will honk constantly, and if the nuts are too loose, the horn won't honk at all (but it might be the other way around). Sorry I can't be more precise, but you will figure it out! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 24, 2023 Author Share Posted March 24, 2023 1 hour ago, neil morse said: It's been a while since I had the steering wheel off my '41, but I think this is how it works: The positive current is in the wire that comes up through the steering column. The brass-colored plate on the back of the center hub in your photos makes contact with the spring-loaded fitting on the wire where it comes out of the center of the steering column. To activate the horn, you push on the horn ring which causes one of the three spokes to make contact with the hub of the steering wheel which grounds the horn circuit. I remember that the adjustment is a bit tricky and you may have to remove and replace the horn ring several times before you get it right. The adjustment is by means of those three insulated nuts on the back plate. I think if the nuts are too tight, the horn will honk constantly, and if the nuts are too loose, the horn won't honk at all (but it might be the other way around). Sorry I can't be more precise, but you will figure it out! Thank you very much for your help, and I understood what you explained to me for the setting . When we go up the steering wheel, I will make this adjustment . Thank you, I'll post pictures soon . Do you know where I can find a new 6 volt ignition coil for the Buick ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 It looks like you can get a coil pretty easily. Here's one from Cars, Inc. in New Jersey through Ebay. They are a reputable company. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173102769895?hash=item284dbaa6e7:g:ajkAAOSwMfhaXfJ3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 24, 2023 Author Share Posted March 24, 2023 2 hours ago, neil morse said: It looks like you can get a coil pretty easily. Here's one from Cars, Inc. in New Jersey through Ebay. They are a reputable company. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173102769895?hash=item284dbaa6e7:g:ajkAAOSwMfhaXfJ3 Thank you very much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted April 2, 2023 Author Share Posted April 2, 2023 (edited) Hello, I wanted to order a new ignition coil, but when I looked at the original one on the Buick I saw that it was not the same. On the original one there is a capacitor under the ignition coil, and the new one does not have the capacitor. What is this capacitor for ? if I understood correctly it is an immobilizer which is connected with the ignition key ? Where can I find the same coil as original with the capacitor ? Thank you And the new : https://www.ebay.com/itm/173102769895?hash=item284dbaa6e7:g:ajkAAOSwMfhaXfJ3 Edited April 2, 2023 by sebastienbuick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted April 2, 2023 Share Posted April 2, 2023 If you have an original setup with the armored cable, also known as an "Electrolock", the condenser is not the main problem. The condenser is to prevent radio interference from the ignition, and would probably exist only on a car with a radio. You could leave it off if you wanted to. A condenser for that purpose from a more modern car would work fine if you could get it attached in there and you probably could. I don't believe they are still made. I needed one a few years ago, and even though very similar radio interference condensers were used on new cars into the 80s (US Chrysler products like K-cars, etc.), no replacements were available. A film capacitor from an electronic supplier should do the job. The electrical spikes go high, so I would get a 600 volt one or more for longevity. The trouble is I have no idea how many microfarads you should get. This condenser is only to suppress interference and has nothing to do with the function of the ignition system. The bigger problem is that the binding post you see that condenser connected to also connects the electrical supply wire for the coil. It is on the bottom of the coil, and the coil you linked has that post up on top. The one you linked will work electrically, but will not physically fit. None of the correct type are made today. Only NOS, NORS and used coils fit correctly if you have an Electrolock. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted April 3, 2023 Author Share Posted April 3, 2023 15 hours ago, Bloo said: If you have an original setup with the armored cable, also known as an "Electrolock", the condenser is not the main problem. The condenser is to prevent radio interference from the ignition, and would probably exist only on a car with a radio. You could leave it off if you wanted to. A condenser for that purpose from a more modern car would work fine if you could get it attached in there and you probably could. I don't believe they are still made. I needed one a few years ago, and even though very similar radio interference condensers were used on new cars into the 80s (US Chrysler products like K-cars, etc.), no replacements were available. A film capacitor from an electronic supplier should do the job. The electrical spikes go high, so I would get a 600 volt one or more for longevity. The trouble is I have no idea how many microfarads you should get. This condenser is only to suppress interference and has nothing to do with the function of the ignition system. The bigger problem is that the binding post you see that condenser connected to also connects the electrical supply wire for the coil. It is on the bottom of the coil, and the coil you linked has that post up on top. The one you linked will work electrically, but will not physically fit. None of the correct type are made today. Only NOS, NORS and used coils fit correctly if you have an Electrolock. Hello, ok, thank you very much for all this information . The original coil is oxidized, and I thought I would change the coil instead. But as it is rare, I will first try to clean the oxidation of the coil. I will keep you informed, thank you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted April 7, 2023 Share Posted April 7, 2023 (edited) Sebastian, I have had the same problem with the coil on my '41, it was weak and the car would stall when hot. I have a couple of similar coils but they are all weak, so I used an extra bit of wire to connect to the line from the ignition switch and used a new style of coil. Incidentally the wire from the switch will eventually short out against the metal shield of the Electrolock, as the insulation is rubber and cotton. I had mine repaired by Doug Seybold in Cleveland some years ago. I can show you pictures of mine if you'd like. It's a pretty simple mod, easily undone and though it's right there on the firewall no one seems to notice it. Keith Edited April 7, 2023 by Buicknutty (see edit history) 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted April 9, 2023 Author Share Posted April 9, 2023 On 4/8/2023 at 1:37 AM, Buicknutty said: Sebastian, I have had the same problem with the coil on my '41, it was weak and the car would stall when hot. I have a couple of similar coils but they are all weak, so I used an extra bit of wire to connect to the line from the ignition switch and used a new style of coil. Incidentally the wire from the switch will eventually short out against the metal shield of the Electrolock, as the insulation is rubber and cotton. I had mine repaired by Doug Seybold in Cleveland some years ago. I can show you pictures of mine if you'd like. It's a pretty simple mod, easily undone and though it's right there on the firewall no one seems to notice it. Keith Hello, yes I would like a photo, thank you The part where the coil wire is fixed (the wire that goes from the ignition coil to the distributor head) is oxidized and a bit damaged. That's why I was thinking of changing the coil. But as this coil model no longer exists, I will first try to clean the oxidation and if that does not work I will put another coil as you did on yours . Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 Good evening everyone, some news from the Buick 41 My parents placed an order at Bob's Automobilia, a store that I highly recommend, they have almost everything you need for Buicks up to 1960 . A parts catalog is provided So they ordered the Buick logo seal from the trunk The cover of rear headlights and turn signals in new Front headlight surround and seals Front turn signal seal Rear headlight seal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 then I took care of the sheet metal fixed to the rear bumper which was twisted. So straightening It's better Then sandblasting Then application of phosphating primer The thick sheet of 1941 is not smooth and has defects, so I will apply thin putty only on the visible part so that the sheet is smooth and has no crevices Then apply phosphant again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 Then application of a dark gray primer Then apply black paint The bumper sheet is finished Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 Then we went to get the chromes and here are the chromes that have been redone The chromes are in superb condition, they look like new parts 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 now reassemble the chromes And we start with the Buick logo on the trunk with its seal Reassembly letter by letter And set up Around the rear headlights now, with new covers (new on the left, and original on the right) His seal Refitting the driver's side rear lights Then the same for the other side 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 then the rear bumper with its sheet metal Reassembly Now the front of the car with the reassembly of the bumper then the front headlights, with the new strapping, the new seal with the clips, and the two chrome pieces to put on the new strapping Reassembly of the joint, on the left the new one, on the right the original one Then reassembly of the headlight chromes A finished headlight strapping 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 My little brother who cleans the headlights before we mount the headlight rings Then reassemble the first strapping Then the same for the other side Then the front turn signals, and I started with the wiring of the sockets which was not pretty I did not have time to look for cotton thread as original and as I was reassembling, for the moment I made with red and black thread Reassembly Then here are the new indicator covers with their seals, on the left the new ones, and on the right the original ones Reassembly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted June 6, 2023 Author Share Posted June 6, 2023 And reassemble on the car That's it, the chromes are reassembled, more than a good cleaning will be missing 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted June 7, 2023 Share Posted June 7, 2023 Wow! She looks beautiful! Your parents must be happy with the result. I agree with you about Bob's Automobilia - they are a great source for Buick parts. I've used them for parts for my 1938 Century. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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