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1930 Olds Coupe, general info needed


Johnnya101

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Hi All,

 

Been looking to get a late 20s/early 30s car for a few years now. Really leaning towards a Ford due to parts being readily available, and restored cars can be found for around $20k, but have been looking at some others too.

 

Friend close by has a 1930 Oldsmobile coupe stored away, totally original but runs. Information on these is kind of scarce. I am looking for something that can do 50 MPH all day long, and I know a correctly rebuilt Ford Model A can do that no problem. How are Oldsmobiles, and what can they do for speed? Reliability? Issues? Parts? I think one could rebuild an A engine with little trouble at home, can the same be done with this? I would of course need to do a restoration, which I may consider. Are they really more "car" for the money to make it worth a restore vs getting an A?

 

Supposedly was bought new in 1930, driven until 1940, owner was drafted for the war and never came back. Have not seen photos or car in person yet, looking for some general info first.

Edited by Johnnya101 (see edit history)
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Prewar Olds are not as difficult to restore as you might think. Between AACA and the National Antique Olds Club there are resources, parts, knowledge and expertise available. 

 

No it won't be as easy as an A or even a Chevrolet, but it's doable.

 

If it runs and stops you're way ahead of the game.

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Oldsmobile of that era were a mid level car by a major manufacturer (General Motors!) with a good reputation for quality and reliability. They are a basic flathead style engine with a well developed driveline. They are comparatively easy to work on requiring basic mechanical skills.

Provided the car is fairly low mileage, and hasn't been badly abused during its life? Restoration and maintenance shouldn't be very difficult.

 

50 mph all day long might be a bit of a stretch. An overdrive could be added and would help a lot. People didn't expect much for speed in those days. Most people seldom if ever exceeded 40 mph. So manufacturers built with lower gear ratios to meet the expectations. Generally, the engines of that era can handle a twenty percent increase in gearing. Some cars could even handle thirty percent. However the Oldsmobile I think I would shoot for twenty.

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Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I'll try and take a look at it this week and get some photos to see what exactly it is and condition.

 

I know it is totally rust free and dent/accident free, it's a coupe, and it was driven for ten years. I would think that would mean it should be fairly low miles and should be in decent original shape. I'll find out soon.

 

Hoping for a daily driver type car, roads around here are 45 mph. Model As were said to be good for 50-55 no problem, so that would be what I would need in a car such as this.

 

Does anyone know if these '30 Olds engines used babbit or are they some sort of insert bearing type?

Edited by Johnnya101 (see edit history)
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Checked it out today. Seems to be in decent original shape. Body I would say is excellent with original pin striping. Fenders have some dings, one small tear, and light surface rust/wear. Chassis seems good, has surface rust. Brakes/chassis as a whole covered in grease. Body wood seems perfect, no rot or rust through anywhere. Glass is good except for shattered windshield. Odometer has 42,000 miles on it, and I think that may be original/correct. Engine looks as one would expect. Trunk has no rot or rust, wood is perfect.

 

Seems to match the story. Windshield has gas ration sticker, remnants of an NH sticker, and a registration sticker expiring in 1943. Car seems all there, door handles are missing at the moment, and the rear view mirror is missing.

 

A couple things for those more experienced with these...

1. What do these go for all original? From my limited researched, if I were interested in proceeding, I think it is worth around $10k. 

2. How difficult is it to find parts to refresh the engine, get a new wiring harness, and in general rebuild/refresh it from a parts availability standpoint?

20220829_151403.jpg

20220829_151625.jpg

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3 hours ago, Johnnya101 said:

Also, what body trim is this? Standard?

Not with the fender mounted spares. DeLuxe equipment included 6 wire wheels and chrome plated headlights. Specials were equipped with 6 wooden wheels and painted headlights. The reflection in the windshield looks like the headlight buckets are painted. Rims in the trunk definitely aren't wire. I'm going with Special. One of 633 Special coupes produced for 1930.

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Wiring harness is not an issue - I just looked up Y n Z and they are $537 , Rhode Island Wiring is another option.  From the modern wiring ends, hose clamps and new tires it looks like someone had been trying to get it back running.  If the tires are fairly new, as in less than 5 years old that alone is a significant cost savings.  Good looking car.  If you end up buying it I'd do the brakes, get it running and make it safe and reliable and drive it the way that it is.  

Edited by 3macboys (see edit history)
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On 8/28/2022 at 8:19 PM, Johnnya101 said:

Does anyone know if these '30 Olds engines used babbit or are they some sort of insert bearing type?

According to the '41 parts book, main bearings were insert. Rod bearings were poured up until '32, but in service, '33 rods with inserts were substituted.

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19 minutes ago, Oldsfan said:

Not with the fender mounted spares. DeLuxe equipment included 6 wire wheels and chrome plated headlights. Specials were equipped with 6 wooden wheels and painted headlights. The reflection in the windshield looks like the headlight buckets are painted. Rims in the trunk definitely aren't wire. I'm going with Special. One of 633 Special coupes produced for 1930.

Thanks for the info. Yes, buckets are black, and only passenger side spare. Wood spoke wheels with demountables. Would it still be a special with only 5 wheels?

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7 minutes ago, Johnnya101 said:

Thanks for the info. Yes, buckets are black, and only passenger side spare. Wood spoke wheels with demountables. Would it still be a special with only 5 wheels?

Standards came with 5 wooden wheels with the spare in the rear. Five wire wheels with rear mounted spare were optional on Standards. DeLuxes had the 6 wire wheels with dual fender mounts and Specials had the 6 wooden wheels with dual fender mounts. Nothing came with a single fender mounted spare, either wood or wire. 

 

DeLuxes and Specials were also equipped with a trunk platform. If there is no evidence of a trunk platform, or evidence that there was a rear mounted spare, then I'd say it would be a standard and the fender mount spare would not be correct.

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8 hours ago, Oldsfan said:

Standards came with 5 wooden wheels with the spare in the rear. Five wire wheels with rear mounted spare were optional on Standards. DeLuxes had the 6 wire wheels with dual fender mounts and Specials had the 6 wooden wheels with dual fender mounts. Nothing came with a single fender mounted spare, either wood or wire. 

 

DeLuxes and Specials were also equipped with a trunk platform. If there is no evidence of a trunk platform, or evidence that there was a rear mounted spare, then I'd say it would be a standard and the fender mount spare would not be correct.

In a photo I took (not uploaded), there are some holes on the metal above the gas tank by the trunk lid. Looks like there would be a rear spare that was removed, guessing the tire and rim went in the back, and the spare wheel went in the fender well. Or maybe the holes were for a trunk platform.

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With business coupes, if the trunk was being used often, many times owners would remove the rear spare, install a welled fender, and mount it on the passenger or road edge side. As an owner of a 32 Olds, I’ve done extensive research and have found what many believe to be standard production is not always so. The car in the pictures seems to have all correct 30 Olds side mount hardware from the lock to even the cowl grommet. The car owner could have purchased the necessary fender and hardware from an olds dealer but I’m leaning to the car was assembled that way originally. Another scenario is the left front fender was damaged and replaced with a non welled fender but the cowl would have a hole in it. On the passenger side wood sill, just inside the door at the front corner of the seat frame, an aluminum body tag should be nailed there. It will have the information to better know exactly what this car is. It is a three window coupe which is pretty unique and uncommon on its own. Nice car!

     As far as parts: I prefer Rhode Island wiring as their harnesses are the most correct, drop in with proper wiring colors, and include the proper GM type metal bayonet connectors. I would suggest you pull the water jacket cover off the side of the motor and clean all the flaky rust out. Get a Gano filter for the radiator return hose and install to help catch any residual rust. The olds were way more car than a Model A and my olds and 31 chevy can easily do 50, the model A guys are not big at keeping up with me. Most cars of this era are comfortable running at that 45mph range with the higher speeds causing high revs on a low geared car. I’m not sure on the 30 but my 32 is a fully pressurized oil system which helps at higher rpm’s. I know my chevy isn’t and not sure on a model A.  This olds will drive and ride much better than any model A due to the heavier frame, stouter power plant (4 vs 6), and the wood framed body. The olds owners are somewhat of a brotherhood and i would suggest if you purchase the car, join the NAOC and contact all the other 1930 owners as they will help you. This car is a much rarer car than the A and driving to a show being different is what I like personally. I have only one of only three 1932, 6 cyl., wood wheeled deluxe roadsters currently  known to exist and only two are stateside. I know that’s there’s a very good chance I’m the only one at the show with one!😁

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