Ross Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 Hi All This my first post in this forum, and the rear quarter panel windows are not operating on my 67 Riviera, they have power to the switch but only when I earth them to another part of the body. Does this mean I have an earthing problem to the electric motors ?? Cheers Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 You need a 1967 Buick factory Chassis Service Manual and 1967 Fisher Body Manual. These will have wiring charts which will help you figure out the problem. Also, keep scrolling down the Forums until you find the Buick Forums, who also have a Riviera subforum with plenty of skilled and knowledgeable people hanging about. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted July 17, 2022 Author Share Posted July 17, 2022 Thanks Glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 The passenger door and rear quarter windows are fed power from the master switch on the driver's door. The connector at the remote switch has 3 pins: UP, DOWN and POWER. The motor case is (or should be) grounded to the body to complete the circuit. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 (edited) Aside from an electrical problem, its not uncommon for the rears to quit working altogether and mainly this is from lack of use. I think nearly every 66/67 I've owned exhibited that issue one time or another. Sometimes if you give the motor a whack it will start working. Then as long as you operate it once in awhile it will keep working. Never hurts to clean out and lube up the tracks while you are in there. Just a little general snippet: The wiring connectors/terminals at window motors can be fragile especially on cars that have not been garage kept and pampered. I've seen the male terminals break off the motor when wiring is unplugged, then motor must be replaced. If plug connector is tight, soak them down with WD40 for awhile before attempting to remove. Edited July 21, 2022 by JZRIV (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 Love my crank windows........they roll up and down no problem decade after decade, century after century! 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 18 hours ago, Seafoam65 said: Love my crank windows........they roll up and down no problem decade after decade, century after century! I'm with ya Winston. My first 67 had crank windows and honestly I like them in an older vehicle. Less weight and no issues with a mutitude of potential problem areas of a power system. I have yet to figure out why we like cars loaded with power options as they can be a never ending source of frustration! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 39 minutes ago, JZRIV said: I have yet to figure out why we like cars loaded with power options as they can be a never ending source of frustration! Because 'that other kid' had them in his family's car while you were forced to turn that crank from the back seat of your mom's '68 LeSabre 4-door... There was a time when literally EVERY new car built didn't come with power windows, A/C and cruise control... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Fab Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 Hi Ross, I had the same problem. I just took the motor out, opened it and completely cleaned it. Removing old sticky grease for new grease, cleaning oxyded contacts and brushes. This solved the problem. So I did it for all the windows. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 And a fully charged battery will help push sticky motors. Those puppies draw some initial amps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRmanr Posted August 24, 2022 Share Posted August 24, 2022 Attached are Buick & Fisher factory chassis wiring circuit diagrams which I completely upgraded a few years ago because I got tired of looking at poor quality images. I've been meaning to share these (before something happens to me), so please share as you see fit. I have others too. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRmanr Posted August 24, 2022 Share Posted August 24, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, KRmanr said: Attached are Buick & Fisher factory chassis wiring circuit diagrams which I completely upgraded a few years ago because I got tired of looking at poor quality images. I've been meaning to share these (before something happens to me), so please share as you see fit. I have others too. It appears that "Figure-120-129 1967 Riviera Wiring Circuit Diagram" did not upload in full resolution. I'll try another way or possibly start a new post with everything I've upgraded. Ref this zoomed screenshot for example. When I created my new replacement '67 forward wiring harnesses I noted the factory ENGINE side harness 10 gauge wiring from the starter and alternator to the Shunt DID NOT agree with the Buick Chassis Service Manual (Figure 120-129) so I fixed that. Edited August 24, 2022 by KRmanr (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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