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1940 Buick Model 41. Need engine rebuilt.


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9 hours ago, LarryDolphins said:

Does anyone know where I  can get my engine rebuilt?

1940 Buick model 41. Straight 8

I live in the Los Angeles area.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

What is wrong with it?  Full rebuild can be costly.

248ci engines 1939 to 1950? & 263ci are basically the same and can fit (with some work)

What is the serial number of your engine? (helps identify it: may have been changed in the ~80 years)

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
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I can rebuild it, but I am in Virginia.  The last Buick engine I shipped to California cost over $2000 UPS freight.  The weight was 950 pounds dry with crate.   Fastenal would undoubtedly be cheaper.  I don’t know how much, though.  I would recommend pulling the head yourself and magna-fluxing it.  They are prone to crack into the combustion chamber.  They can usually be fixed, but that adds a good day’s labor to the job.  Check and see what you have.  I am glad to help what I can.

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Call these guys and ask for a referral:  Egge Machine Company

Founded in 1915 Egge Machine Company is a world-class piston manufacturer that specializes in domestic vehicle applications from the early 1900s to 1980. Egge operates a state-of-the-art foundry and world-class machine shop in its Santa Fe Springs, CA facility.

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Why don't you just fix whatever is wrong with the engine? A valve job can work wonders on the compression and make it run like new. Are the bearings bad? Because repouring babbit bearings would cost more than a 4 door sedan Buick Special is worth. Look for a later Buick with a 263 it has drop-in bearings and fits a 1940 Special if you swap motor mounts with it, and it's easy to find parts for a 263, not so much with a 248.

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On 5/8/2022 at 7:05 AM, kgreen said:

Keep your eyes open for the guy that swaps the 248 for an LS.  I got a nice running motor in that way.  Also check out the H.A.M.B. site.

I second that, I got a spare good engine from someone pulling it to motor swap.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for all the advice.

I called EGGE and asked for a referral. The company they gave info on ( L&R Auto in SantaFe Springs)no longer rebuilds these 248's.

I will check on H.A.M.B. Have not been on that website yet.

The reason I am asking is because I did a compression test and all cylinders were low. One very low.

But the car runs pretty good. I drive it to the Pomona Antique Swapmeet sometimes.

I would like to start restoring this car so I thought I would start on the drive train first.

I am not a mechanic.

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1 hour ago, LarryDolphins said:

Thanks for all the advice.

I called EGGE and asked for a referral. The company they gave info on ( L&R Auto in SantaFe Springs)no longer rebuilds these 248's.

I will check on H.A.M.B. Have not been on that website yet.

The reason I am asking is because I did a compression test and all cylinders were low. One very low.

But the car runs pretty good. I drive it to the Pomona Antique Swapmeet sometimes.

I would like to start restoring this car so I thought I would start on the drive train first.

I am not a mechanic.

 

Take the head to the shop for a valve job. That will jack the compression up for sure and it's not expensive.

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If you haven't yet, perform a 'wet' compression test.  Cylinders that show improvement with the wet test are the ones with worn or stuck rings.  Low cylinders showing no significant change are likely the ones that would benefit from a valve job.  If it looks like rings are the issue you might try an oil additive such as "Rislone" in order to help remove any deposits that may be causing them to stick in the piston.  Or, some people add 10~15% ATF to the oil for the same reason.  If rings are stuck, frequent oil changes and additives may help.  How many miles on the engine?

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

On 5/23/2022 at 9:54 PM, LarryDolphins said:

 

The reason I am asking is because I did a compression test and all cylinders were low. One very low.

But the car runs pretty good.  

 

What are your compression readings?

Wet and Dry?

 

Even when it was brand new,

your 248 would only have had approximately 65 or 70 PSI or so pressure in each cylinder when tested (wet),

and that is with a couple of tablespoons of heavy oil in each cylinder.

Since you have somewhat even readings with one cylinder much lower, a maladjusted or inoperative lifter, as well as a burnt valve could be an issue. But the car runs well, you may just be looking for a problem which doesn't exist, or could be easily improved with freeing up the rings or lifters.

 

If it ain't broke - don't fix it !

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