Mr. Reed Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 I've done some more reading. There seems to be a lot involved here so I will not be converting it to power steering anytime soon haha. It's probably about a thousand dollars just for the parts alone. Oh well thanks guys.👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted April 26, 2022 Author Share Posted April 26, 2022 I've been doing some thinking. I saw some wrenches that flex at the ratcheting end. Maybe those will get the clearance for the block to transmission bolts to remove them. My hand will barely fit between the firewall and the block with a normal wrench. Any thoughts or tricks that I'm missing thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 Either the flex ratchets, or use a ratchet, long extension and a swivel socket while laying on your back under the car.😖 Harbor Freight or Northern Tool both have the flex ratchets. I'd make sure they had long enough beams to get some leverage on them. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 There is also ratcheting extra long box end wrench for extra leverage that work great 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 Shorter beam HF flex ratchets. And longer beam HF ICON series. Either should accomplish your objective as a hobbyist. You'll notice the ratchet head on the ICON set is smaller and may allow you to get into tighter spaces. They are several times more expensive than the Pittsburgh set but still less expensive than tool truck brands- which are worth the expense only if you're making a living with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) Having not seen your individual situation, It is hard to say what will work and what will not. On many cars though, @rocketraider 's example of a long extension and a swivel socket is on point. What may work best is a swivel extension on a regular socket if you can get enough angle with that to reach the bolt head. It is still done with a long extension from under the car. Next would be the swivel socket or "universal" socket, chrome version. This will get you more angle, but be more prone to trying to twist sideways off the bolt head. Try different clockings of the socket with relation to the bolt head. Some stay on better than others. Next after that is the impact version of the swivel socket, black with a ball shaped joint. These are less likely to do the job than the chrome ones because they don't bend quite as well, and are fatter and more likely to interfere with something. Definitely worth trying though if you have them around. Last would be a universal joint adapter on a regular socket. Those are 99% useless, although it might be worth a try I guess. I've not found much use for those ratcheting head end wrenches either. I expect the head of the wrench would be too fat on most bellhousing bolts, as there is often barely room for the wall of a socket, but if it works more power to you! It would sure beat the one-or-two-notches-at-a-time method with a standard combination wrench that is necessary on some cars. Edited April 28, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted April 28, 2022 Author Share Posted April 28, 2022 The ones pictured are what I'm thinking of. Thanks Bloo and rocket raider. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted April 28, 2022 Share Posted April 28, 2022 (edited) If you use the chrome 3/8" drive flex socket there is also a vey long extension 3/8" drive to attach socket and the other end is for a 1/2" drive that attaches to ratchet for extra leverage. Available in 12", 24", and 36" length. Edited April 29, 2022 by NailheadBob update (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted June 9, 2022 Author Share Posted June 9, 2022 Sorry it's been awhile since I posted. Not much has happened. I purchased a new tube set for the radio and put the fuel pump together and am organizing the hardware. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 On 4/28/2022 at 1:29 PM, Bloo said: Next after that is the impact version of the swivel socket, black with a ball shaped joint. These are less likely to do the job than the chrome ones because they don't bend quite as well, and are fatter and more likely to interfere with something. Definitely worth trying though if you have them around. Not my experience. These work really well. I have a set of metrics from Snap-On ($$$)and an SAE set from Harbor Freight($). The Harbor Freight set is 25 years old, so not what they are selling now. I do own the "chrome" swivel sockets (Craftsmen, older, not China), but hardly ever use them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 8 hours ago, Frank DuVal said: Not my experience. These work really well. I have a set of metrics from Snap-On ($$$)and an SAE set from Harbor Freight($). The Harbor Freight set is 25 years old, so not what they are selling now. I do own the "chrome" swivel sockets (Craftsmen, older, not China), but hardly ever use them. Many years ago I purchased the Snap-On impact swivel socket set SAE, then some years later I purchased Matco impact swivel set metric, and I did not like using the Matco ones, I must have gotten spoiled using the Snap-On ones, I get cheap every once in awhile and usually comes back to bite me almost every time, and I end up purchasing the Snap-On product. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 If I remember correctly, a trans shop would pull the rear engine & trans mounts and lower the rear of the engine to gain wrench clearance. You'd support the rear of the engine to hold things up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 It's been awhile but with the help of my dad's friend we got the engine out of the car. It's now on wood in front of the car to be painted next week. Then go back in the car and get reassembled. Then hopefully driven before fall and then maybe sold. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 15, 2022 Author Share Posted August 15, 2022 Engine is sent out for paint. I put it on a pallet with more wood in between the flywheel and mounts to secure it down. When I get it back I'll assemble it on the pallet for easier access instead of in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 On 7/31/2022 at 7:18 PM, Mr. Reed said: Then hopefully driven before fall and then maybe sold. ☹ Nickster- what will you do for an old car fix after the Burick's gone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 15, 2022 Author Share Posted August 15, 2022 It may be just a fun chapter in life. You can always buy another someday. But I'll hang onto this one for another year or so once I get it back together and running down the road again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 15, 2022 Share Posted August 15, 2022 I still think it's cool that you have a car 2-1/2 times as old as yourself. Or as we in Southern Vajenya used to say in 60s and 70s "that's just cool to death". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 Yeah I think when I start driving it again I'll fall in love again haha. Don't want the relationship to be stale haha. Metaphorically speaking. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 16, 2022 Author Share Posted August 16, 2022 I think it will look cool with the engine all painted to factory colors and the body looking like it's 70 years old what do you guys think. Isn't that patina look in these days? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share Posted August 31, 2022 Getting my engine back this weekend from paint. I'm so excited. Dad and I made a pallet to put the engine and hold it steady so I can put a lot of the accessories back on it outside the car. Lots of reassembly to do. I'll post pics tommorrow or thursday. I'll lay the parts out on the floor with all the bolts and gaskets so I know what I have haha. It's been a minute since it's been disassembled. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Nickster- you did take pictures when you took it apart, right?😉 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 Yup I sure did. Most of the bolts I put back in their holes so I didn't use them haha 😅 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted September 1, 2022 Author Share Posted September 1, 2022 The hard part is going to be putting a clean fresh engine back in the car with no scratches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Here's the engine now. Oil pan off and all clean ready for paint later this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 The only thing not getting painted torquise is the oil dipstick. The timing hole had some yellow paint on it so I'll put some on when I get it back to duplicate the factory markings. The steering box has this also. Does anyone have an original one they could post a picture of with markings or anything. Thanks. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 All painted and ready for reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 19 minutes ago, Mr. Reed said: 😍🤩 Young'un, you do nice work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NailheadBob Posted October 7, 2022 Share Posted October 7, 2022 Engine looks great, what are you using to support front and rear of engine with , and is it stable? could you post photo of support setup Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 7, 2022 Author Share Posted October 7, 2022 I didnt paint it. I had a shop I know do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 8, 2022 Author Share Posted October 8, 2022 On 10/7/2022 at 4:18 PM, NailheadBob said: Engine looks great, what are you using to support front and rear of engine with , and is it stable? could you post photo of support setup Bob They used an engine stand and a scissor jack with a bar welded to it for support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 13, 2022 Author Share Posted October 13, 2022 I have a couple questions. The head gasket goes on dry with no sealant right? The water outlet gaskets, push rod cover gasket and oil pan gasket goes on with sealant to hold them in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 The pushrod cover is a notorious source of leaks. Seal it carefully. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 I will put sealant then the gasket to hopefully make it tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 On the side push rod cover gasket add a bit of silicone (I hate silicone) at the joint between the head and the block. The high ridge on the push rod cover pushes against the gasket center, not the edge of the gasket. Hope that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 I used a thin (~1/8") bead of Permatex gasket maker on each side of my pushrod cover gasket. I let it set on the cover side to make sure it stayed where it belongs before applying the sealer to the block side of the gasket and then installing the cover. The cover bolts were another leak source on my 320. I first tried dressing the original copper washers with a file, but they still leaked. I finally replaced them with neoprene washers backed with larger steel washers under the bolt heads. So far, after about 3 weeks, it is staying dry. Also, I torqued my cover bolts in stages (working from center outward) to a final torque of 75 in-lbs. I rechecked the torque after a couple of heat/cool cycles. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 4 hours ago, EmTee said: I used a thin (~1/8") bead of Permatex gasket maker on each side of my pushrod cover gasket. I let it set on the cover side to make sure it stayed where it belongs before applying the sealer to the block side of the gasket and then installing the cover. The cover bolts were another leak source on my 320. I first tried dressing the original copper washers with a file, but they still leaked. I finally replaced them with neoprene washers backed with larger steel washers under the bolt heads. So far, after about 3 weeks, it is staying dry. Also, I torqued my cover bolts in stages (working from center outward) to a final torque of 75 in-lbs. I rechecked the torque after a couple of heat/cool cycles. The gasket sits on the flange edge of the cover where it's curved inward right. When I took mine off there was nothing left of the old gasket just chunks of junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 (edited) The cover has a weird crimp that is apparently supposed to pinch the gasket against the flat block surface. The problem is there's nothing to hold the gasket or even really identify where it should sit on the cover. I wound up staring at it, making measurements on the cover and engine before finally determining that the gasket apparently is supposed to sit on the cover so that the gasket 'reveal' is even all around the cover. That's why I used the gasket maker to stick it to the cover and let it set before attempting to install the cover. My old cover looked like a felt composite (e.g., Felpro) gasket and it was shot - saturated with oil. I first tried re-sealing it, but it still leaked. Here's a link to the thread where I detailed what I did with some pictures: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/371015-my-1938-buick-century-model-61/page/6/#comment-2437629 Just scroll up to the point just before the Glidden Tour summary. Good news is it's clean and dry now... Edited October 15, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 EmTee You did it correctly! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Reed Posted October 30, 2022 Author Share Posted October 30, 2022 Can someone post a picture of how the gaskets go for the timing chain cover. The kit i bought has two gaskets and one metal seal. The thinner gasket I didn't see when I removed the cover. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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