Repairing radiator cap.

[ramair]

My 1928 Buick master goddess radiator cap came apart on me , looks like someone previously repaired it with JB weld.  There is a thin wall brass ring with internal threads which is the part that screws on to the neck of the radiator neck has separated from the casting.  Looks like it has been played with before, the actual casting is shiny and not pitted, does anyone know how they were put together originally?  Either that or it looks like I need to reach out and try to deal with some family dynamics, well at least it’s not my family this time!

[27donb]

I thought these caps were one piece castings. I suspect the threads stripped out of your cap and someone turned a threaded ring and as you said, glued it in. 

 

1928 might be a one year only cap.  I know 1927 caps are different and one year only.  Here is one with cracks on ebay, so you can see what you would get if you bought another one.  The listing is wrong as I don't think they had goddess caps in 1926, and 27 was different. Goddess caps came out for sport models or master models with dash engine temp gauges (motometer not needed) :

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224515274217?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=&mkcid=2&itemid=224515274217&targetid=1403035015427&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9001651&poi=&campaignid=14357537471&mkgroupid=126242665837&rlsatarget=pla-1403035015427&abcId=9300642&merchantid=8530694&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr-X5p6fX8gIVBKjICh23eQa4EAQYASABEgK4tvD_BwE

 

Sometimes you can find reproductions, but they can be expensive too.  Or, you could  see if you could have it recast, but with machining and plating, again, expensive. 

 

If you can clean the mating surfaces, maybe it could be glued again.  I'm not sure of the best epoxy to use, maybe someone else does. 

Edited August 29, 2021 by 27donb (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

That threaded filler neck on the top radiator tank looks absolutely awful.  I would take a set of calipers and measure the inside diameter of the tube and head for the nearest Ace Hardware store and get a rubber plug and get it securely in place so as to keep crap from falling into the tank and causing problems in the radiator and water pump.  The fact that the cap is 'pot metal' really doesn't leave you with a lot of options.  You might consider trying to find a nice brass 'dogbone' cap with the proper I.D. thread and go that route.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

[JohnD1956]

I am sure the thread insert was soldered to the inside of the cap. It might be repairable in the same manner if the insert can be removed from the radiator. If you google : how to attach brass to pot metal

There are some informative videos available. Given the rarety of this piece however, it may be worth looking for an expert to fix it. 

[ramair]

Thank you all for the ideas, Terry the actual radiator neck is perfect, what you are looking at is a tarnished corroded brass collar that right now is stuck on the threaded neck. I will need to try a plumbers wrench as it is so thin I think a pipe wrench would damage it, if I get it off we might try the solder trick

[Morgan Wright]

I don't see how you can solder that goddess cap to the neck without tarnishing the beautiful shiny chrome or stainless surface. The heat from the solder sweat torch, whether you use propane or map, the heat will tarnish the shiny coat. No way. I'd take a wire brush and clean the heck off of that neck down to the bare metal, and use modern adhesive that can withstand radiator temps, and figure it's good for a few years and then redo it every 5 years or so because that's how long plastic adhesives last. My experience is JB Weld is good but PC-7 is better, both companies make high-temperature formulas. But if they last 5 years you are lucky. If you decide to solder it for longer longevity, solder is good for 100 years if you do it right, but you'd have to replate the goddess for sure because that plating won't stand the temp.

 

 

Edited August 31, 2021 by Morgan Wright (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

Ramair,

No disrespect intended here.  You have a delicate problem on your hands.  I am sure that you are correct in saying that the external threads on the neck are in good shape.  Your problem is getting that ring off without messing up the threads.  You might try passing a heat gun over the ring and see if that will expand it enough to put a shop towel over it and use a pair of Channellock pliers to loosen it up.  You really need to get that filler neck plugged for a whole lot of reasons.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

[Robert Engle]

I don't think chrome was used on diecast in 1928.  I would think the outer finish is nickel plated.  Solder bonds well to nickel.   60/40 will allow you  to keep the temperature down.  

 

Bob Engle

[ramair]

I am unsure of proper plating as 1928 was a transition  year, I was told the the master six series had chrome headlights and bumpers but radiator shell is nickel , I will try to solder brass threaded bushing in to ornament and see if that holds.  If someone has contact info for Don Summers family members please PM me, thank you

[michealbernal]

Thsts a good looking cap.  I would salvage it just the way ir was repaired the last time.

[Grimy]

Michael, talk to our mutual great friend Tony W in San Jose.  He made aluminum collars for me which convert one thread to another so I can display a special accessory hood ornament on different cars.

[ramair]

George, thanks for the tip, I will give Tony a call