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1948 Buick Super Original Straight 8 Oil Pan Bolts


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Hello! I purchased a 1948 Buick Super from the original owner last year. It has 27k original miles and has never even seen the rain since new. It’s all original and has never been restored, re painted or disassembled in any way. The interior even has the factory optioned silk seat covers on so the original seats very well could never have been actually sat on yet. Long story short the oil pan gasket was leaking pretty bad so I dropped the pan along with the fly wheel dust cover to check and inspect things. The original hardware was pretty soiled and had 73 years worth of build up on from the slow leak over time. I soaked them in a strong degreaser over night and I came in the next day and the degreaser etched the bolts very badly. Since the car and engine have never been apart and has all the original hardware. I’m looking for correct original oil pan and fly wheel dust cover bolts. They are 5/16-18 thread and are approximately 5/8” long with a lock washer. Some are 7/8” long. They have a distinct recessed head with what I believe is an “E1” stamped into it. I’ll include a picture of one of the bolts that survived the degreaser for reference. I am looking for original style bolts with the correct head and markings. Do you have any recommendations or referrals or for hardware like that? It is a straight 8 engine. Any of the restoration companies dealing with Buick’s from what I researched don’t offer an original style hardware kit. So I’m looking for any straight 8 Buick parts that someone would be willing to sell me some used hardware?


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 The rough surface that you are seeing are probably the remains of rust pits that are clean now.

Once you put a good coat of silver paint back on them no one will ever notice.


 I have a "classic" late 50's 32 hotrod that I maliciously painted the under side and used stainless steel bolts that I ground and polished up real shiny. NOBODY, ever looked under the car at any car show that I went to!

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Thank you for your reply. Like I mentioned in the post, 90% of the bolts got destroyed by using too strong of a degreaser. This was 1 of about 5 that was still salvageable. Over 20 of them got destroyed and are not usable that is why I’m in need of a full replacement. If this car wasn’t so original and un restored I wouldn’t be concerned and would go with stainless as well. But the engine has never been apart nor was the car painted or restored in any way. The original owner has a 5” binder of all the paperwork from day one so it is a true time capsule and that is why I am trying to keep it as original as possible. 

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My dear Buick friend,

I'll be blunt with my opinion,I don't think there is going to be one living soul ,EVER! who is going get all ruffled over or question those pan bolts being replaced with any other period style plan bolts.

The fact the car is being worked on now, tosses out all that "it's never been a part " junk. 

 The value of the 100%original pan bolt set on this car will have no future affect on the cars value at all to any reasonable and rational car person. 


I've seen guys who won't even change a  gasket because it's the original ,yet will sloppy goop it up and reuse it.., but they can say it has " all the gaskets are original".

I'm not impressed.


 Don't let pure originality,an overzealous ego,and brain washing of very minor things like simple pan bolts get too extreme! Especially on a non concours automobile of modest value.


What are you going to do when you get a broken lock washer? look for 1948 Buick lock washers used on oil pan bolts?


And please,please ,stop using  something for degreaser that is so corrosive it ruins what is being degreased...

By seeing the new flash rust on on your E1 bolt that has no original signs of metal finish and age oxidation left at all, (though now clean),your using too strong an acid product for grung removal.


If your stuck on having those bolts in your head,start looking for a parts engine.( that's never been apart?)😀


Preserve what is the most imporant.

Paint,interior,bright work..


Best wishes from nasty Big Mouth.






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A plating shop can refinish your bolts with fresh Cadmium plating, white or yellow, whichever is appropriate. Catalog them and just hand them a bagful.


Replacing automotive hardware can get you in trouble. Many lengths are not in the same increments you find at the hardware store and the length can be critical. As a general rule, just do what it takes to refurbish or replace with the exact original. Even if you have to part out another engine.


I had one job where a rebuilt engine had the exhaust manifold bolts replaced with hardware store bolts. The new bolts were too long and on the same plane but 90 degrees radially from the head bolts. The small extra length tightened against the head bolts and bowed them. Later installation of accessories caused stripping of the head bolt threads and the damaged bolt was reused. That stripped the bock threads and caused a head gasket leak. It was a high dollar car and I finagled the fix. I can guaranty that I learned more than the person who did the install.


So be careful, plating the original is best. Buying replacements may oversimplify a future job.


Expense. Well, postgraduate courses around here can run $3,000 per credit hour. Consider it as working toward a Masters in preservation and restoration.

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If you do search for "lndented Head Bolts" you should be able find some pretty close looking substitute fasteners for your car. I had a 1948 Buick Super convertible for over 30 years and I managed to locate many suitable replacement hardware items.

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1 hour ago, 2carb40 said:

Yeah,  but if you send me a private message I bet you get your wish!

I just made the account so it says I do not have the credentials to private message yet. Can you email me carmencicioni@gmail.com ?

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