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48Super

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Everything posted by 48Super

  1. I have changed the cap, wire and plug and verified that there is spark in the affected cylinder. The compression is 160 psi in that cylinder and the valve action appears normal, cam lobes are in good condition also. Its a mystery.
  2. Here is the latest update, still no joy. While checking everything again, I found the #6 plug had a cracked insulator on the electrode end and I thought for sure that was part of the problem. Today I reassembled everything again with all new gaskets and a replacement spark plug. Engine still runs the same and the #8 plug still appears like it is not firing. I hate to sell the car but I don't think I want the hassle of dealing with it anymore.
  3. Curiosity got the better of me and I took the intake manifold off again to check it for an internal leak as previously suggested. I made a pair of simple plates to block off the exhaust crossover and pressurized the manifold to 40 psi with no leaks detected. At least I now know another thing that is not the problem. I had used composition material intake gaskets thinking they might seal better than the original steel type gaskets. They might seal OK but they self-destruct when you remove the manifold and the next guy to disassemble things will hate you for using them (especially if you are th
  4. Sorry to say it but I'm about ready to give up on this problem. Nothing I've done so far seems to have any effect on the cylinder misfire. Now I have to decide if I want to sell the car the way it is and take the loss or spend a fortune to have the engine rebuilt. With 100,000 miles on it, if it needs to come apart for anything, I should just do it all and get it over with. I don't have the capability of pulling the engine myself anymore so I will have to find someone in my area qualified to do the work and that will probably not be easy.
  5. Tom, The miss stays there when the engine warms up and does not go away as the RPM's increase. I know I have spark as I disconnected the ignition wire and connected it to another plug which I laid on the exhaust manifold and I could see a healthy spark when I ran the engine. Previously, I installed a new plug, wire and cap, of course the problem was still present. It seems that I have compression and spark so that leaves fuel in question. The intake manifold internal leakage problem posted by TKRIV is very interesting. I wish I had seen it before I reassembled everything. I did no
  6. Yes, the #8 plug is clean and the others are not. I examined the intake manifold very carefully and it was in excellent condition,no cracks and the sealing surfaces were flat and smooth. This problem has really got me stumped.
  7. Here is an update on my engine situation. I installed new intake manifold gaskets (composition type from Best Gaskets), correctly installed the carburetor mounting gaskets and put everything back together again. The engine behaves the same as before, #8 cylinder is not firing judging from the appearance of the plug compared to the others. The engine has a noticeable shake and I can feel the miss in the exhaust for that side. The cylinder compression tested good at 160 psi and I checked the cam when I had the valley cover off and it looked good and the valves seemed to move normally. I'm am out
  8. Sorry, you are both correct. I misunderstood what Tom said, thinking the gasket was flipped side to side. I did have it installed incorrectly. The rear carburetor did not have the steel heat shield installed but I have the correct part for it. The intake manifold gaskets were correctly installed, my picture was a little misleading as I had wiped the surfaces a little beforehand. The #8 port was definitely different in appearance however. Thanks for the input. Hopefully, once I correct these errors, the car will run properly.
  9. This gasket, Felpro #9803, has a gap in the area shown regardless of orientation. Looking at pictures of mounting gaskets from some other manufactures, it appears that some are made more closely to the contour of the heat crossover channel in the manifold and those might work correctly. Is a stainless gasket also needed on top of the mounting gasket to cover the crossover channel on the rear carburetor?
  10. Thanks for the advice so far. I did some more investigating which included running the engine and measuring the temperature of the exhaust manifold ports. What I found was that the #8 port was much cooler that the others on that bank. I just wanted to verify that the cylinder was not firing at all before I got deeper in the disassembly. I removed the front carburetor and saw evidence of a vacuum leak at the mounting gasket. The manifold has no heat crossover channel for the front carburetor but the the standard mounting gaskets have a cut out for the channel. You can see in the pic
  11. For a while now, I've been unable to get a nice idle on my '65 GS but it would run fine on the road. When I recently drove it for the first time this Spring, it ran really rough and I could tell there was a very pronounced miss. The first thing I did was to remove the plugs and right away I found the #8 plug was black with carbon as if it had not been firing. I checked the ignition wire which had OK resistance, but to be sure I installed a new wire, a new plug and spare distributor cap. I ran the engine again and I could tell there was still a miss present at all RPM's.
  12. Sorry Tom, the were snapped up right away after I posted them.
  13. These were on my '65 when I bought it some years back. I did not realize they were actually for a later year. My parts book lists "chrome nuts" for '65 so I assumed the original chrome nuts got shabby looking and the previous owner replaced them with these. I replaced the stainless capped nuts with a set of solid stainless ones. They are absolutely gorgeous.
  14. Free to anyone who can use them is a complete set of 1/2-20 stainless steel capped lug nuts. These were on my '65 for many years and they are all in nice condition. I just replaced them with a beautiful new set of solid stainless lug nuts from Mitch Romanowski so these are now excess. Shipping cost will be $8.50 by USPS flat rate box. Hopefully, someone out there can give these a new home.
  15. I'd be interested in the battery ground cable if it is in good condition.
  16. I got my new Diamondback triple stripe tires recently and had them mounted today. I am VERY pleased with the appearance of these tires. When I ordered the tires, the guy at Diamondback told me that they are made using their Auburn brand tires which they make themselves here in the US. They really pack the tires well to protect the whitewalls and they arrived in perfect condition. The icing on the cake will be a new set of stainless acorn lug nuts I've ordered from Mitch Romanowsky, My Riviera is happy!
  17. The problem you are having is not uncommon to the '63-'65 Riviera equipped with a tilt column. Here is a link to a thread discussing this problem in the Riviera Owners Forum here on the AACA website: Do a search on this topic here: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/73-buick-riviera/ and you'll find lots of helpful information.
  18. Here is a picture of the "factory style" installation on my '65. The original positive battery cable is just long enough to route between the battery and the clamp hold down rod. The battery is a Walmart unit disguised as an OEM Delco using a detail kit from Weskcar.com . I think it looks pretty nice.
  19. I'm looking for one 1967 Cadillac wheel cover in excellent condition. The one I need is the "vented" style as shown in the picture below. Thanks for your help.
  20. For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of a vintage car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The pictures below show the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in my 1967 Cadillac and on typical Delco battery as used on a 63-65 Riviera. It is very sim
  21. For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of an OEM car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The picture below shows the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in a 1967 Cadillac. It is very simple to remove the existing rectangular vent caps and instal
  22. For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of an OEM car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The picture below shows the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in a 1967 Cadillac. It is very simple to remove the existing rectangular vent caps and instal
  23. My '65 has the original positive cable which is red, I also had a '64 with the original cable and that one was red as well.
  24. I restored and owned a 1948 56C for over 30 years and my car definitely did not have this hole in the cowl. I've looked at many Buicks of this vintage and do not recall ever seeing a similar feature. I don't believe there is anything directly below there that the hole would access. Very mysterious!
  25. I had to buy a new battery for my '65 today and while I was installing it I was thinking about how often the subject of proper battery cable routing comes up on these cars. I looked in my shop manual and there was a perfect illustration showing the correct factory cable routing with the negative terminal closest to the fender. I've scanned this image and included it here for reference. The configuration shown would represent how the cables would look when using a Group 27 battery with the terminals located closest to the front of the car and the cables going between the filler caps. Some owner
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