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1968 Ford F250 - The daily driver


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I finally found some heads! 

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The passenger side original had the exhaust manifold thread drilled out in a horrible way so I've been looking for a few months now. I tried a few sellers on ebay after coming up empty locally but they both tried to hose me or ghosted me after I had won the auction, frustrating to deal with people sometimes... 

 

I found this engine locally last weekend, it's very crusty but hopefully the heads are ok as they have been machined before. I dropped them at the machinist today for inspection...

Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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I've been working on the rear end also. It appears to have never been opened up, let's just say the stench was intense. The whole shop stunk for 24 hours. The rancid lube looked clean though, no chunks or glitter. 

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I cleaned the inside of the cover and both mating surfaces and then assembled the cover on the axle.

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I replaced the pinion seal as a matter of course. The old one looked ok but was ancient. I also greased the three driveshaft joints as they were pretty dry. The yoke shaft cleaned up nice so it should run many miles without issue.

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Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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Busy weekend with the electrical system...

 

 

I went about installing my LED kit for the flashers/signals/4ways/brake/backup lights. There is a gentleman on ebay that sells the kit complete with the correct electronic flashers for vintage Ford trucks so I gave it a go. I want the light bright as can be, anything to be visible to other motorists during day and night. 

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The general condition of the wiring in the truck is excellent but dirty. I'm surprised by the state of the connectors in that they are mostly clean on the metal to metal contacts. The grounds are in fair condition however and needed attention. 

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I went through each one and exposed clean metal around each screw hole, cleaned the connector on the wire and added some dielectric grease to keep the water out. 

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I also added heavy braided cable from the cab and bed to the frame using the same method...

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Replacing the bulbs themselves was straight forward, I did have to work them a bit in some cases due to corrosion in some sockets at the front of the truck. I modified the connector on the end of the flashers to a loop vs. a fork for a more secure connection. I was able to ground the units at the the clip or close by, the original flashers had no ground wire. Both the turn signals and 4ways have their own flasher unit.

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Last but not least I had to replace the switch for the 4 ways as the guts had disappeared at some time in the past. Not sure where they went, no clue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

It's been a busy few weeks with work and a house remodel but I'm still plugging away on the truck.... I pulled the auxiliary tank out and it still had like 10 gallons of rancid gas in it, not much use except killing the weeds in my gravel driveway. More on that later, I did take it to get boiled out since I was heading to the auto shop near work that also mounted my new tires...

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I found these power kings in the 7.50x16 size and I think they look pretty cool! The old tires were 10 years old, had a wider footprint and were pretty aggressive, since I won't be off road I can get away with a highway tire.

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It was nice to roll it out of the garage after installing the new tires and get a look at the new rubber. I also got into the front brakes which looked good... they look like they got new pads at some point recently so they can stay as is, a cleaning is all the backing plate assembly required. The bearings all looked good, the grease the lived in did not! All were cleaned and repacked with new grease.

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The hub seals had failed, badly on the driver's side. The grease had oozed out and through repeated heating and cooling had turned into a glossy rock hard tar that had to be chipped off, a real workout! The new seals I got that fit the application are a single lip seal instead of a double, I'll give them a go as they were pretty expensive SKF brand. I may need to do a speedi sleeve on the spindle where they run as there was some scoring...

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I though I'd get some sort of under hood light setup and have been keeping an eye out for an oldie in good shape. I ran across one of these retractable Hobbs lamp in excellent condition that fit the bill. It has to be mounted a certain way as it has a mercury switch in it or it won't turn on/off when you open the hood. I've got some asphalt loom on the way so I can run a wire to it inside the hood frame, I'll have it run through a switch under the dash so I can cut power to it if need be.

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This week I hope to finish up the gas tank and some front end service, more to come...

Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, AURktman said:

Those Hobbs lamps are awesome!  I found one to put in my 60 Bonneville, they normally came with them and had the wiring in place.  I wish they came in new cars.  

They are nifty! It takes a 1003 bulb but i'll put an LED in there for more light!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Talk about a frustrating two weeks... sometimes you just burn money and time and run in place! Nature of vintage auto work I suppose, definitely the low point of the project to date!

Bugaboo #1 was the power steering pump. Disassembly was straightforward as it was leaking and in need of a rebuild, reassembly was like the village idiot programming a VCR!

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Components were blasted and painted which is where the fun started... Humidity ruined my paint job with our funky weather lately 3 times so the blasting cabinet got a lot of use.

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Then I bent the pulley reinstalling it, let me tell you they are not cheap! I used my 12 ton press to remove/install said pulley because the pulley remover/installer tool kit I bought wouldn't touch it, each removal on the press ruined the front shaft seal so I went through 3 of those all told. I blasted and painted the new pulley as soon as I got it and humidity ruined that paint job also, back into the blasting cabinet and another paint job and it was ready to install. Yay! This time the pulley went on smoothly with no issue until I realized I put the base plate on inside the pump body 180 degrees off. The shaft has to be pressed out again (ruining a seal) because only one of the internal pump pins is removable, the other is not and runs up through the base plate. It all comes apart AGAIN and goes back together AGAIN but correctly this time. Oooof, just painful is the only way to really describe it.

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Somebody pass me a cigarette!

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Bugaboo #2 was the auxiliary fuel tank... After removal I took it to be cleaned and it came back much better inside but with some junk I could hear sliding around in the tank yet. I had planned to do the POR 15 sealing and to removed the last of the loose crud I attempted to remove the drain plug.... and failed. What I though was the plug moving was just the soldered bung twisting loose, gimme a break! At this point I need to kick my own but and retired for the night, but not before ordering a new tank and sending unit.

The tank removed without much drama, I did break the J bolt for the rear strap as it was pretty froze up. I was able to make a close copy out of a hardware part without too much problem.

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The frame between the cab forms a perfect trap for sticks, pine needles, rocks, dirt, and leaves that all end up packed around the tank, frame, and tank skid plate. What didn't fall out with the tank removal was picked out of the frame with pointy tools.

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All rubber parts associated with the auxiliary tank are toast with a combination of cracking, dry rot and in the case of the filler hose a strange dissolving/melting thing going on that I've never seen before. It's like it was turning back into a tar substance near the bend into the actual tank. The lines going to the tank selector valve would split and leak if you moved them in the slightest. The tank itself had like 10 gallons of rancid gas that killed weeds real good!

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The filler neck had been unbolted at the bottom, I presume to make up for a hose that had to be shortened due to leaking/cracking at the connection. This will have to be addressed as the only new filler hose available is too short for this style filler neck. I'll end up extending the filler neck and breather tube via welding to make up for the issue. The new tank and sender showed up pretty quickly, the tank however was dented from shipping around the filler neck and had bent flanges at spots around the seam. Some careful dolly work and I was able to straighten it to acceptable.

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Installing the sender was easy. I did have to bend the float a bit as it would touch the filter but an easy fix. Tank is ready to install, I have some webbing and hose clamps on the way that should be here this week and then it can go in.

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I needed a fun project to get my mojo back so I did a quick and easy resto on the transmission rear mount parts... new mount, cleaned hardware, and blasted/painted bracket. No issues... hey things are lookin' up!

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Positive project #2 was a mount for this vintage CB antenna I picked up. I originally wanted to mount it about 16" in front of the firewall bit the flange on the underside of the hood doesn't give enough room there when the hood is shut so it was either at the very front or back where there is no hood flange. In the end I went with the front as it allowed me to mount it using two of the body bolts and no holes drilled in the truck. I wanted to be able to add/remove it with no modifications to the actual truck. I made the mount out of 1/8 stainless and have a 102" whip antenna bent back and tied down with a clamp at the cab drip rail above the door. Another successful project, we're cookin' with gas now! Mojo has returned and we're smiling again.

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I got my UPS delivery today from Mcmaster Carr with my needed supplies to finish the fuel tank and get it ready for install...

I decided to go with some Oetiker clamps for the filler hose/breather/fuel lines especially since the connections are not accessible once the tank is in place. Install was easy with the right tool, no issues there. I did fit the hoses over the barbs and measured the diameter installed so I knew exactly what size Oetiker clamps to get.

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The original tank had some anti-rub straps on the topside in the spots that touch the frame. I found some 2" wide webbing that fit the bill. I got nylon as I don't want cotton webbing holding water after a rainy drive. The original was glued on, no need to reinvent the horse, contact cement worked fine.

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The tank is now ready to install tomorrow.

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I had an hour earlier this afternoon so I finished up the often ignored parking brake system service. The cables were relatively clean and rust free but they were dry and binding up in spots. The pedal assembly was also stiff and would not return to it's neutral position when released, nor would the brake release handle. The whole system needed to be cleaned and lubed at the very least. I pulled the cable from the pedal to the equalizer and fed it some deep creep slowly allowing it to wick down into the cable while sliding it back and forth, good to go. The pedal assembly, got a good scrubbing, a loose mounting screw snugged, and a greasing. Works like a swiss watch now, nice and snappy.

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The rear wheel brake cables also got attention, each was disconnected and brought outside the bed pointing up so I could wick lubricant down inside...

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Each cable then was angled down under the truck to be able to drain any excess out if any.

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Everything went back together without issue and functions as it should.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got the tank installed yesterday... I must say it was a bit of a fight! This is my first Spectra tank and I must say I was a bit disappointed at the amount of modifications I had to do to get it to fit, including having to use a jack to take some twist out of the tank so it would fit flat against the frame. I did get it in there though and got the filler and breather hose lined up too and hooked into the filler assembly.

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The new sending unit has a 3/8 barb and the old steel fuel line is 5/16 so I needed an adapter. I found this 90 degree dog leg 3/8-5/16 adapter (a GM tranny part) that worked perfect

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Now I was fully expecting to have to modify the filler assembly because everything I've read in online searches indicated the Dennis Carpenter rubber filler hose was too short for the Bumps with the auxiliary filler above the belt line. They must have lengthened the hose as it fit just right, no mods to the filler pipe required. I used Oetiker clamps on the filler and breather with no issues, locked them on like nobody's business. The filler assembly was then screwed back on the bedside and the cover replaced. Now I just need to find the correct vented gas cap and the auxiliary tank will be complete.

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While the Oetiker clamps were out I replaced all the rotten fuel hose on the fuel tank selector valve.

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Been busy with house renovation but still working on the truck when I can!

I had the tie rod bits off to replace boots and clear up a stuck zerk that wouldn't take grease. A bit of a fight to get the joints apart but they finally let go in the end, tapered fits can be a bugger. The left steering link was also loose and flopping around on it's joint that connects to the tie rod, this could not have been good for steering! Indeed the old front tires were worn in a funky pattern and this no doubt contributed.

I ended up soaking the end with the stuck zerk(removed) in some thinner for 24 hours, then hit it with compressed air. Once I got some flow I repeatedly dunked it in thinner then blew it out with air until the sludge stopped coming out.

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Since I had the assembly out I wire brushed them and gave them a coat of satin black paint and chased the threads on the castle nuts with a tap.

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I then installed new boots and grease them good, rotating the joints to ensue good grease coverage before reinstalling. No play in the assembly now, nice and tight.

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A few odd projects in the mix also...

I made this holder for the CB antenna. All I could find after looking around was an aluminum clamp with a plastic keeper that had a lot of bad reviews. I made this out of stainless, it clips on the drip rail. I still need to figure out how to insulate it but we're 50% there.

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I got some correct size clamps in from Mcmaster so I rebuilt the heat valve assembly. I deleted the "T" fitting that went to the carb base plate, it just a straight shot to the heater core and back now. Todays gas vaporizes just fine, if there is an issue I can replace it but I doubt there will be. I'll run it and see. Note the uncrimped hose clamps... I'm trying to have all these smaller sub assemblies laid out and ready to install with parts in place to speed along reassembly. Every little bIt helps!

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I could not get the box side toolbox to lock. I had to fight to get the key in and it would turn sometimes but not latch, Rather than mess with the original lock I got a new one. I did have to take the new one apart and rotate the cylinder 90 degrees so it would be vertical and swap a bit of the old hardware onto the new latch but it works great.

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After I reinstalled the latch I also cleaned up the inside of the toolbox. It had some real nasty thick goo in there, like grease melted or something and dripped out the bottom of the door. It was going to make a mess of anything stored in there so it needed the cleaning.

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The wife and I spent some time at the local pumpkin patch this afternoon and stopped for a bite of dinner since the weather was so nice today. I really wanted to do truck stuff this evening but I had to mow the 2 acres before the rain moved in. I think I sent a new record so I could get back into the garage, priorities man!

I've been putting off cleaning out the cowl/vents based on past experiences but I was going to do the driver's side tonight, the time had come. I pulled off the vent cover after removing the parking brake to get access...

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I set about pulling out decades of organic goodies and cleaning the panel with some mildly abrasive cleaner wax for a nice shine. It was pretty loaded up in there, dry and not wet and rotting so that was a plus. This stuff has to come out or it settles into the space below the vent and rots out the metal behind the front wheel.

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The vent cover itself had a bunch of junk crammed into the track for the sliding door so I removed that with a small regular screwdriver and compressed air. Once the door was sliding great I vacuumed out the vent compartment and reassembled everything. It's now clean and no sound of crunching leaves when the vent door opens/closes.

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We've got working license plate lights... Excuse the license plate, I needed a test subject!

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These were missing when I got the truck and from the looks of the connectors they had been gone a long time. I scored some new repro lights assemblies that arrived a few days ago. I also picked up some LED bulbs for them.

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After trying to fit them in the original aftermarket bumper I can see why they weren't installed, they don't fit. I had to open the hole up just a hair, 1/16 or so with a step bit. I may repaint this bumper, we'll see how things go next summer. I'm borderline on doing it...

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The connectors were full if dried mud. I dug that out with a small screwdriver then hit them with a brass bore brush from my gun cleaning kit. Nice and shiny after a few hundred RPM. I did a final clean with some thinner and Q-tips, lightly coated the connectors with dielectric grease and plugged them in.

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I removed the heater core and heater control unit for servicing... The selector levers for heat/defrost were stiff and very jerky in one direction. The control unit came out without much fuss, pretty dusty in there!

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Not much to look at when it's out, pretty simple machine. I did discover the issue pretty quickly, one of the cables had broken and they both were tough to push/pull.

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I got some new cables from Dennis Carpenter and boy what a difference! They move so much smoother with much less effort. I also got them in 7 days, they must have worked through their backlog of covid orders as the last few orders have arrived fairly quickly vs the 2+ weeks it was taking a few months ago. Nice high quality parts, couldn't be happier. While the control unit was out I cleaned it good and lightly greased the areas that move. It's ready to go back in when I get a chance.

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While I had the heater out I pulled the passenger air vent to get inside and clean out what I assumed would be another assortment of plant matter, I was not disappointed!

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Again I vacuumed out the vent and buffed the kick panel while it was apart before reinstalling the vent... after I gave it a bath!

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The heater assembly... Easy enough to show the condition with a few pics.

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After I disassembled it down to it's components I washed the plastic case and sandblasted the sheet metal. This had been left raw at the factory and since you can't see it when installed I guess it didn't matter to FORD, it does matter to me though so I painted the raw metal black. I also got a rebuild kit and replaced the foam/gaskets throughout the unit. The heater core itself showed no signs of leaks and was clean inside. I didn't expect much sediment anyway with the excellent condition of the block cooling passages.

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The other change I made was to put the plastic case and the plenum backing plate back together with stainless 10-32 screws and nuts instead of rivets like FORD did. I can service it now if need be without drilling rivets out. I quick test showed it was moving a bunch of air to the defroster or heater, the new foam really makes a difference. It's also nice not to hear leaves skipping around when you turn it on.

 

 

Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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Love the truck! Such a great looking era for Ford. I noticed that actor Kevin Bacon has recently been promoting a sweepstakes for charity where some lucky entrant will win a '69 Ford pickup. That's probably the only way I could afford one of these great vehicles. 😄

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On 10/10/2021 at 12:31 PM, JamesR said:

Love the truck! Such a great looking era for Ford. I noticed that actor Kevin Bacon has recently been promoting a sweepstakes for charity where some lucky entrant will win a '69 Ford pickup. That's probably the only way I could afford one of these great vehicles. 😄

Thank you for the kind words, lots of work but I enjoy it.

 

I saw Mr. Bacon's truck ad, looks like nice one!

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Spent the afternoon working on the F250, nice to get away from work for awhile... I needed it!

I got the cigarette lighter fixed. The one in the truck was an old aftermarket one that I assume replaced a worn out factory unit. Now the aftermarket one is toast but they still sell a very similar unit so I snagged one of those and put the old light housing and knob on the new lighter, action shot in the video below. The insides of the old one were corroded, I tried cleaning but in the end it was better to replace it. I'm debating on the light ring around the dash hole. The stock hole is a bit too small for the plastic lens but it would be cool... to drill or not!?!?

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While I had the radio out I popped the lid and blew out a bunch of dust and replace some dried out flaking tape, much improved in there now.

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The fused wire from the radio had a poor connection in it. I'm not sure if it was a dealer thing but the wire had a twist nut and some crap electrical tape on it. I soldered it and covered with some adhesive heat shrink for a higher quality job.

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The dash looked like this when I started around noon, yikes! Nice to have access though, made things a lot easier.

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By evening the blower assembly was installed... along with the heater control, radio, defroster ductwork, and glovebox insert. Made a quick video to summarize...

 

Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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Half way through the afternoon they mail brought my new used ashtray. The original was stolen out of the truck while in the previous owners possession. I found this just after it went up on ebay and didn't hesitate, the color looked right but I wouldn't know for sure until it arrived. Stolen ashtray replacement on left that came with truck at purchase, new one on the right.

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I was stoked to open the box, slide it into the dash and see a perfect boxwood green paint match. I had been watching ebay for while with no luck and had even picked up another ashtray to repaint that had the ball bearing slider assembly I was also missing. I took the best parts from all 3, buffed the paint and handle, riveted the faceplate on and greased the sliding assembly.

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The "new" ashtray works and looks great! Sometimes is the little projects that leave a lot of satisfaction.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/3/2022 at 7:23 AM, tomcarnut said:

Love the truck and the project. Any updates?

 

Tom in Ohio

 

 

On 1/3/2022 at 5:27 PM, mhsprecher said:

Love this project.  You are a very skilled, detail-oriented individual.  Great work!

Thanks for the kind words guys, I've had a bad time of it lately so it really means a lot.

 

I contracted covid a few days after getting my first vaccination. It was bad with a high fever but it did pass at which time I started getting very short of breath and coughing up some blood. Long story short I had blood clots in my lungs and had to undergo surgery followed by my current regiment of heart medication and blood thinners, YIKES! 

 

I actually set foot in the garage today for the first time in a long while and managed to fit the truck's replacement gas caps. Just a small job but it did wonders for the soul. I'm looking forward to getting back on it as my strength returns, stay tuned!

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  • 3 months later...

Feeling much better now so it's time to get back to the bigger stuff...

 

I pulled out my micrometers and bore gauge yesterday to check the block and crank.

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The crank was very good, checked out within specs. The block is within specs, but just barely on the high end. This is disappointing and leads me down a path I hadn't planned on so early but that's the way she rolls sometimes! 

 

Since the block needs to be bored for a long service life it makes sense to switch out the crank, rods and pistons to turn this 360 into a stock 390. Better torque, power, and mileage than a stock 360. Sadly my good crank is of no use if I go down that road. The other option is to put it back together as is and run it for some length of time before the bores finish wearing out but that seems like a waste of time and effort. 

 

Remember this all started with a head that had two manifold bolts drilled needing attention and a leaky rear main seal. Those issues uncovered worn crank bearings that got me to where we are now. Do it right once and be done... I'll find me a new crank and rods asap, 390 it is!

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  • 4 months later...

Finally got a call from the machine shop... They got the pistons in but recommended I get new wrist pin bushings too, there was only one catch as he couldn't get any except from one place for $20 each! Seems they've disappeared except for some dubious made in china ones on Ebay. I told him I'd dig some up and get them over to him, took all the google foo I could muster but I found some Cevite/Mahle ones for a reasonable price and dropped them off so he can continue on... Sadly it looks like no truck fun this year, things are just moving too slowly when I have to outsource anything. 

 

In the mean time I had to dig up another carb body because I thought I could fix the fuel inlet threads originally but that isn't so. After peeling off the JB weld and running a tap in there they still look horrible. Not worth the risk of leaking fuel so I google foo'd some more and found a correct core carb with the required manual choke setup (not easy to find).

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After disassembly and cleaning in Berryman Chem Dip (it cleaned up nice, great stuff), I put brass bushings in for the throttle body shaft.

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From there it was just a matter of carefully moving all the parts from the old carb body onto the new one...

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All set and ready to go! I just need to get a brass fitting for the fuel inlet so it doesn't get worn out again and I have to go through this all over.

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Edited by Lahti35 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a call from the auto machine shop late last week, things are moving again and I anticipate my parts to be back this month. The weather was nice this weekend so I did some outside stuff that wouldn't be much fun in the coming cold.

 

Cleaned loads of rust, grease and paint off the intake manifold.

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...As well as the transmission cross member, which also got painted. 

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