Rodney’s 1963 Buick Skylark convertible

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, a few small gains and insights. Had our monthly Wednesday breakfast with the Cars N Coffee crowd which meant another trip in the Skylark. After that went further to a bearing company and ordered the correct hub seal as those supplied with the bearings are incorrect. No biggie as I was able to reuse the old felt type seal and will replace them when they come in.

 

No discernible change in behaviour but it certainly runs fine, this time with the top up because of the chance of rain.

 

So back home did the tyre runout test as suggested by Emtee and others and although they both run true laterally (tread grooves ran straight and true) was a hint that the left tyre was not perfectly true around the side wall. 
 

So I removed the RHS hub (with the drum still attached this time) and inspected inner and outer bearings and was almost going to just service them and reinstall. Closer inspection on the inner cup revealed some indentation marks almost like fatigue so replaced them both.
 

You could feel the two indentations with a fingernail. So glad I did as I feel reassured that the bearings on both front wheels are 100%. You can see the two imperfections in the pictures. The outer was fine but replaced it anyway 😀😀😀

 

Again checked the backing plate bolt tensions (correct at 65 foot pounds) and nipped up the idler arm to centre link nut. Haven’t road tested yet as I ran out of time but will do that soon.

 

I will then swap over the wheels front to rear and retest and check the date code. I would think they date back to 2015 when it underwent the “restoration process”.

 

Anyway pictures otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited August 24, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Details and more and better photos (see edit history)

[EmTee]

That wheel bearing race is definitely bad!  It's a good thing you replaced it.  I don't know if that will fix the low speed wobble, but I agree you should move the front tires to the back (and vice versa) and then road test.  If the wobble is due to a tire you should feel it in your seat...

[old-tank]

6 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

I would think they date back to 2015

Seven year old tires are past their expiration.  Check for any looseness of the center link and drag link.

[rodneybeauchamp]

5 hours ago, old-tank said:

Seven year old tires are past their expiration.  Check for any looseness of the center link and drag link.

Did check for looseness the other day and the link felt firm but intend to check the pitman arm to link nut today if I get time.

 

9 hours ago, EmTee said:

That wheel bearing race is definitely bad!  It's a good thing you replaced it.  I don't know if that will fix the low speed wobble, but I agree you should move the front tires to the back (and vice versa) and then road test.  If the wobble is due to a tire you should feel it in your seat...

interesting as the “wobble or shimmy” seems to be felt through the wheel but now you have said, I will take notice where it can be felt when I road test. Hopefully get a chance today or tomorrow. 
 

Appreciate all of your inputs. I think I will check all the fasteners that are steering related and ensure they are to spec. But I think the tyre swap may prove conclusive. I kept hoping they had installed a wheel bearing incorrectly as an easy to spot fix, but no such joy.

 

Keep digging and digging, it’s got to be there somewhere 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

OK, still no road test but some further progress. The automatic choke coil thermostat arrived yesterday so gave me another project that should improve the start ability. A PO had installed a manual choke conversion but I was never happy with it. Besides if Buick wanted a manual choke it would be standard. But it ain’t!

 

But like most things when you delve further there is always another hurdle to jump. The original choke tube had rotted or had broken leaving a small section stuck in the manifold. A few feeble attempts to remove it yielded nothing so I decided to remove the exhaust manifold to gain good access. You can see in the photo with the lead light the limited access.

 

Surprisingly it came off with little trouble, removing the two flange bolts underneath first then the eight bolts that hold the manifold. Seems when the engine was rebuilt they used a never seize compound making the removal straight forward. Apart from one odd short bolt all looked good.

 

I discovered that the transmission filler tube comes out easily as it is held in by the end manifold bolt. Surprising how much fluid leaks out all over the garage floor when it is removed. 😳😳😳😳😳😳

 

Still the stove pipe tube came out quite easily using drill, going up in size in a few stages until the last one drew it out. I will fabricate a new one using 1/4” copper tube left over from the ‘38 Buick choke set up. I was going to reuse the old manifold gaskets however one is not real flash so will see if I can get a set locally tomorrow. Some pictures otherwise it never happened and to be continued…….

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited September 3, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Spelling (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Had time today to make further progress. Was able to borrow a tube bender from a friend and got some welding rod filler wire to make a pattern to bend it to. Lots of funny angles but it was simple enough to bend with the right tools and it looks OK without interfering with the number two plug wire.

 

Then spent time cutting a circular baffle that fits inside the choke housing in the carburettor from aluminium but it was too thick so I omitted it. Possibly used to retain the heat within the coil area. I might make another from thin steel (jam jar lid) but not today.

 

Tested the choke unit I got from Mikes Carburettor Service and it pulls back when attacked with a hair dryer ( don’t tell Jo 😀😀😀😀) which I think is opposite direction to the Carter. So I tried to figure out how it should work but not 100% sure.   
 

Anyway it is fitted and seemed to pull the choke off when it got warm but danged if I know how it applies the choke when cold. Going to study up on it while it cools down. It certainly run OK on the fast idle and it did drop back to idle when I stabbed the throttle (second attempt)

 

I think I need lessons 101 on Rochester Automatic Choke units and settings. 
 

Anyhow pictures otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

You can see how feeble the aftermarket manual choke is ….. a piece of @#$&$#@  plastic that fits poorly in place of the original. And how sturdy is where the metal shaft goes thru ….. weak as wervils wee wee 🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁

 

And not sure if I am missing a tube that goes into the air horn here. Any clues?

 

Will also try to insulate the copper tube to protect the plug wires and retain the heat.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Haven’t posted for a while here but thought I would.

was having trouble setting up the carburettor choke and came across a great video and step by step article on adjustment. I thought it was straight forward but one adjustment threw me as it changed the setting of the fast idle screw. Initially it started and ran at 6,000,000 rpm until I screwed it back down, which then alters the settings.

 

I have it set so it starts easily but doesn’t want to continue running without some throttle. Have given the fast idle another tweak and see how it goes. The good news is it does start easily, ain’t that a bonus.

 

We have entered the Bay to Birdwood car rally which happens on Sunday 16th, travelling from West Beach (near the Bay or Glenelg to the small town of Birdwood. A great run with many veteran, vintage and classic cars making the journey. As a result we were asked if they could use the Skylark for some publicity in The Sunday Mail. 
 

Apparently the Bay to Birdwood organisers were asked for photos of cars and ours was selected by the studio. Jo was expecting other cars to be there and was gobsmacked when told “we was it!”

 

So a trip to Adelaide and a three hour photo shoot ended up being a two page colour spread in last Sundays paper. The models change room was behind a curtain behind the rear door of an SUV. Jo and I left and had breakfast and coffee then returned to view the antics. Will paste more on Girls on Buick.

 

Model is Alexa,  women in centre ran the show, guy on right was photographer and one on left did lighting. Interesting that a small monitor was attached to the camera so she could see how each photo would look.

 

Photos otherwise didn’t happen

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited October 12, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra photo and wording (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And on another note, Mr Happy has lost his stablemate as I sold Snowflake, my ‘63 Riviera to a friend and local Buick enthusiast. Roger knew the car as he came to see it when it arrived in 2015 and knew it had been over cared for. He was happy it was sorted and everything works!

 

All part of my grand plan to buy a 1998 or 1999 Riviera which I think will be ideal for travelling to interstate meetings and rallies. You may have seen my post in Wanted To Buy.

 

So the stable is a bit empty and Jo has parked her Volkswagen Eos in the spot as a temporary measure.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And I went on a run to the Saint Kilda tram museum with members of my new car club, the American GM Drivers Club. This club runs the once a year All American Day and the members seem to talk about cars. Funny about that. 
 

The museum is a running affair with free tram rides from the depot to the beach, each ride taking about ten minutes at reasonable speeds. They had four different trams running, each one taking it in turns. I rode all four.

 

Skylark went well apart from an annoying drumming thru the body from the exhaust at speed of 45mph and upward. This was as a result of my removing the manifold to fix the choke tube. Was able to reposition the pipe slightly but discovered loose bolts on the next flange so hoping that is this issue. Will know soon.

 

Nice to see that the wipers work and that it doesn’t leak water as it was rain all the way home for about seventy miles.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And yesterday and today was preparation for next weekend with 60’s costumes and getting the car ready. Had a slow leak in the LHF tyre so got it looked at. That gave me the chance to remove the isolation bolts, clean and oil them, add missing washers and retighten them to 90foot pounds. Ended doing all three and hoping it will reduce or eliminate the light shake.

 

Also when leaving the local Coffee and Cars event, found the horn was not super responsive and took a firm press to activate. So dug into that today and tweaked it so it only requires a light press and it happens. So pleased I wrote a small article for our Australian Riviera forum even though it also applies to other Buick series with a similar wheel.

 

Will send a copy to Ray Knott for the ROA and can send a copy to others if they wish. Process is to add a gasket between the contact plate and the actuator bar (Buicks words not mine) to reduce the gap, meaning it only needs a small press to work. Cleaning up the contact plates also gets full voltage so it works and sounds great.

 

After Coffee N Cars Mr Happy has travelled 68,162 miles. Though when it wouldn’t start, my name was Mr Grumpy, let me tell you. Getting to have a bit more confidence in it now that it starts! Funny about that!

 

Some photos 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited October 14, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Missing word (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

And one last post! Early morning drives with the top down are nice but you certainly feel the cold if not rugged up appropriately. Well Jo noted that and bought me some very nice English Dent’s leather driving gloves which now keep my hands warm too. A big shout out to Guthrie’s Garage who supplies them here in Australia. We got the size wrong and they were kind enough to exchange them without any extra postage. 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited October 14, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
None (see edit history)

[EmTee]

I always wondered what Alexa really looked like... 

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

And now, the Bay to Birdwood car run. This iconic event has been running for many years and focussed on vehicles made prior to 1948. Then eventually it evolved into one year pre 1948 and the next year post 1948. Then it was cancelled as a result of Covid and then came back as a combined event showcasing all cars. I have completed the event in the ‘63 Riviera, the ‘38 Buick Special and now in the ‘63 Skylark.

 

Many thousands of happy waving spectators line the route from West Beach in Adelaide all the way to Birdwood in the hills, a distance of about 65km or 40miles one way. Many entrants including Jo and I dress in period costume to match the vehicle. We were also asked for a publicity photo by our local The Times newspaper to showcase the event. (First photo)
 

A great day for a ride in a convertible. Photos otherwise it never happened!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

But was not all cheese and biscuits. Skylark suffered some chronic overheating problems on a day that was very mild. Temperature gauge climbed past 200F while we were crawling along in traffic and at the numerous traffic lights along the route. So much so we pulled over for 20minutes to let it cool down. 
 

Funny that as soon as we were moving the temperature would drop down to about 180F which is thermostat temperature. When crawling at one point it got to 220F but not boiling. 
 

Homeward journey was fine with temperature staying about 180 degrees. Here is the clue. The heater performance has never been great, in fact dismal would describe the output and a friend suggested there may be an air lock in the system. Had the cap tested and borrowed a funnel that allows the water level to sit above the radiator. By undoing a heater hose was able to remove some of the trapped air. 
 

I still wanted to investigate further, so removed the thermostat, water pump, radiator, radiator and heater hoses and the water outlet at the rear. Flushing the system did not reveal heaps of rust or scale but satisfied my curiosity. There was a bit of green sludge in the pump that I removed. Thermostat tested OK, opening at 180F and closing at a temperature under that. I removed the jiggle valve so it now has a small hole.

 

Bleeding the system I was able to make sure the heater core was 100% full by holding up the heater hose. (Valve has been bypassed until I repair it) Have not started it yet but am confident that the system is full and without any trapped air. Will report back. Any way, pictures otherwise it never happened!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Temperature gauge climbed past 200F while we were crawling along in traffic and at the numerous traffic lights along the route.

What kind of fan does the car have?  Does it have a shroud?  The problem you're describing sounds to me like there wasn't enough airflow through the radiator.  Once the speed increased and air was moving the temperature dropped to normal.

 

Edited October 21, 2022 by EmTee (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

8 hours ago, EmTee said:

What kind of fan does the car have?  Does it have a shroud?  The problem you're describing sounds to me like there wasn't enough airflow through the radiator.  Once the speed increased and air was moving the temperature dropped to normal.

 

Yes EmTee, my thoughts as well. Four blade fan and no shroud which is standard equipment for Skylark V8 yet the V6 uses a shroud. Interesting that the blade is almost as wide in blade width as the radiator is tall, meaning it should be plenty big enough. What concerned me the most that sitting at lights in N and using part throttle, the temperature did NOT drop at all.

 

Which is why I delved into the water pump and thermostat to see if there were a restriction or blockage, but all was clear. Am confident that air lock is the problem in the heater core. My observations are that it reduced the system capacity by as much as two litres.

 

Before I tore into it, I did bleed some of the air out of the system and noted two things.
1. Took much longer to heat up just idling 

2. Heater performance improved

 

7.07am here so will test it out later this morning and report back. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Reporting for duty. Took the Skylark for a good run and noticed two things. Temperature stayed normal (but it was a coolish day) and the heater performance was abysmal. Very disappointed as I thought getting all the air out of the system would have made a difference.

 

OK, let’s check the timing as I found out that I had timed it using the right hand front lead (which is number two) instead of the left hand front lead (number one). As I start to match things up I noticed this. After marking number one ….. Spot the difference in the photos.

 

Yep, number one should be alongside the window opening for points adjustment. So the little elves have moved the leads to the next tower when they put the distributor in. &$&$$##@###$

 

So I spent the next few hours, removing the LH rocker cover, getting number one on firing and removing the distributor. At the same time put in the new points and checked the mechanical and vacuum advance was working. 
 

 

Edited October 22, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Following the shop manual I managed to get it wrong first try but have got it correct now. At the same time installed the body O ring that was MIA (go figure) and modified the contact set adjusting spring to get the 30degree dwell setting required. I found this problem once before where the adjusting screw would bottom out before the correct dwell was reached as the spring was too long in its compressed state. Nipping a coil off reduced the length enough to get it right after setting it to an initial 0.015”.

 

Coolant level after the initial running was down a smidge but all good now. It does seem to run better and start readily but heater performance is marginal. But am working on that.

Pictures otherwise it never happened.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

And for interest, this was the style of filler used to bleed air from the system. Works really well too!

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[JohnD1956]

Have you separated the heater hoses (both) and run the garden hose water thru the core bith backward and forward. To flush it. Be careful if you do and allow leakage at the garden hose to engine hose because if the increased pressure.  

[EmTee]

3 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

So I spent the next few hours, removing the LH rocker cover, getting number one on firing and removing the distributor.

Rodney, so did you 're-clock' the distributor (i.e., move it one tooth CCW) when you reinstalled it so that the rotor points to the correct tower on the cap with the #1 piston at TDC?  It sounds like the last person who removed the distributor installed it one tooth off and shifted the spark plug wires on the cap to compensate (rather than fixing their mistake).

 

Strange that you needed to alter the points to get proper dwell -- I've never (yet) run into that problem.  What brand of points are they?  I see they also rely on the spring to hold the primary & condenser wires.  I prefer the ones that actually use a screw terminal...

[rodneybeauchamp]

7 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Have you separated the heater hoses (both) and run the garden hose water thru the core bith backward and forward. To flush it. Be careful if you do and allow leakage at the garden hose to engine hose because if the increased pressure.  

Next step is to remove the core and check that it flows properly and flush it out. Thinking it must be the problem as there is little else. Luckily this core is a straightforward remove.

[rodneybeauchamp]

6 hours ago, EmTee said:

Rodney, so did you 're-clock' the distributor (i.e., move it one tooth CCW) when you reinstalled it so that the rotor points to the correct tower on the cap with the #1 piston at TDC?  It sounds like the last person who removed the distributor installed it one tooth off and shifted the spark plug wires on the cap to compensate (rather than fixing their mistake).

 

Strange that you needed to alter the points to get proper dwell -- I've never (yet) run into that problem.  What brand of points are they?  I see they also rely on the spring to hold the primary & condenser wires.  I prefer the ones that actually use a screw terminal...

Emtee, did exactly that, reclocked the wires to their correct position and then moved the distributor back one tooth. Book talks about a notch on the distributor body but I could only find a faint scratch. Yes, I should have just marked where number one tower lines up. Your right about what the OP did. I’m sure they did not have a shop manual or if they did, never used it 🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁

 

Points are Bosch which should be reputable. I’m not a fan of the spring to hold the wires but my LPS had them in stock. I set up the new points with the distributor on the bench so could see what was happening. Smallest gap that I could achieve was about 0.020” and Buick suggest 0.015” as a start point. I tried several springs from two old sets with same result so cutting a coil from one worked.

 

When I have some time I might revisit the timing as it wants it set to 7.5 degrees BTDC @ 1050rpm and my idle screw would not bring the rpm up that high. It did not want to idle at 400rpm either which is the alternative method given ( 5 degrees BTDC @ 400rpm) Both settings with vacuum advance disconnected.

 

I might clean up the mechanical advance weights as well and recheck my work. Happy that it is getting closer.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

And a few more photos of Bay to Birdwood. 
Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Staying at the same motel the day before the run. And this one has incorrectly spelled Buick on the plate. In fact the owner said it is a ‘25 Dodge.(not 1926) He bemoaned the fact that he has another Dodge which cost him plenty and has spent the purchase price again on restoration but this is the one everybody flocks too. Typical bushy Australian innovative repairs when you look closely. Enjoy!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited October 24, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra photo (see edit history)

[tenugent]

What's the pipe on the drivers door for?(with glove)

[rodneybeauchamp]

10 hours ago, tenugent said:

What's the pipe on the drivers door for?(with glove)

It is a mechanical arm that is used for signalling for turning and for stopping. When turning left or right the arm and hand is fully extended. The arm can come up at right angles for stopping or slowing. Drivers behind and in front could see what the drivers intentions were. These were used mainly on commercial vehicles. Tried to find photos on the net but nothing was suitable. Perhaps others could post some.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

Had a great breakfast out with our regular monthly crew, taking the Skylark out with the top up. We encountered four seasons on the way with a medium fog at the last leg. Back home decided it was too damp to mow the nature strip so tackled the heater core instead. 
 

Not an easy task to take it out due to the locations of some of the fasteners but removing the blower motor and motor housing gave a bit more room. 
 

A few surprises met me when it came away, including some debris caught in the fly wire in the heater core housing. A bit more rubbish on the core as well all restricting the air flow. But the airflow of the heater has not been the issue.

 

Flushing out the core back and forth loosened some debris but putting three 5/16” nuts inside and rattling the around gave better results, loosening a lot more white calcified stuff. Thinking I will invest in some CLR unless other have got better ideas. Photos of what I found so far.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

The other concern I have is the heater air distribution box on the passenger side of the firewall seems very restrictive. In an earlier post I had cleaned it out and turned over a piece of insulation to keep it original. JohnD made a comment about using a better material and I may revisit that and use a thinner material that gives less resistance to the air flow. The insulation seems very close to the core and the flaps that direct the air are almost in the way.
 

This might assist air flow and help the demisters as well, noting the driver side doesn’t clear very well. I think I might play HVAC engineer and see what I can do to improve things.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
 

 

[JohnD1956]

Do you have a picture of how that heater core is oriented. From the passenger AND the engine side?

[old-tank]

I don't know how tight your 63 convertible is, but my 55 cannot keep heat in at highway speeds when the temperature is below 50*F; my closed cars were warm even below zero(F).

[JohnD1956]

One thing I learned was to block off the gap between the bottom of the seat and the floor when the top.is down. Of course in the '55 that would be of limited assistance with the underseat heater. It will also be hard to do with the bucket seats.  But with the 69's bench seat  it makes a tremendous difference. 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Ok, a bit more progress. Enjoyed what I got done too! Cleaned up inside all the blower and heater core housings while it was all apart. Got Rob, my radiator guy to try and seal the heater valve that had a slight weep, hence why I bypassed it. We think we have sealed it but will know once we hook it in the system. Tested the heater valve temperature regulator ( the coiled up tube which must expand and contract , much like a thermostat) Yup, she no longer works which is why PO put a long screw and nut in its place. Not too fussed but put it back any way.

 

Flushed out the core and filled it with Cleaning Vinegar and left it for two days. Not too sure how effective is was as most of the calcium deposits came out by rattling the nuts inside. Was worried about the CLR being too aggressive on the brass and whatever metal the core is made from (copper or brass). It seems to flow well so will be interested in the results.

 

Also removed the old insulation inside the heater distribution box as it would restrict the air flow.

 

Was concerned about permanently sealing all the housings back up using a sealing compound in case it needs to come apart again so came up with the idea of using cork gaskets. Had some sheet cork about 3.0mm thick and traced out the patterns. With a new knife blade was able to neatly cut them using a steel rule for an edge. Used a hole punch to cut the holes which only need to be large enough to take a 1/4” self tapping sheet metal screw. 
 

Using a Permatex sealant on the housings, glued the two gaskets down and left them to dry. Had some 4mm strip rubber with adhesive backing that I used to seal the core to the housing. Just waiting for it to dry so it can go back together. We all like pictures so here they are. The bright screws are temporary to keep the holes aligned.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited October 29, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

Well, at long last we have HEAT! Yup, all the work so far has really paid off. We have been away on holidays so haven’t posted for a while. Spent some of yesterday and today putting the heater core and housing and the blower motor housing back in. The cork gasket worked a real treat after cleaning up the mating surfaces on the firewall. You can see some of the gasket in the blower housing and on the outer edges of the metal. Once proven, I will just paint them black.

 

Burped the system again and let it idle in the garage on a wild, wet and windy day about 16.1C (but feels like 4.1C) Even at about 140 degrees on the temperature gauge there was warmth and at 160 degrees the heater was quite warm. As it neared 180 degrees I am sure it would have been uncomfortably hot if sitting inside with the top up. 
 

Allowed it to get to 180 degrees by putting a towel over the front to reduce the air flow as I wanted the thermostat to open. It gave a big burp as it did!
 

So I am more than satisfied that the heater core now is allowing coolant to flow as it should. Heater valve and hoses were too hot to keep your hand on. One modification made was removing the insulation piece entirely. Have yet to test it on the road and waiting for it to cool down overnight so I can put the cap on and test it under pressure. Anyway, pictures otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[rodneybeauchamp]

What a difference an LED or two make!
 

For those who have followed my posts you may recall that in May this year I removed and refurbished the instrument cluster and rectified the PO poor attempt to repair the bulb holders. It certainly improved the lighting but was never 100% satisfied with the light output, especially the fuel gauge and clock.

 

I do use my Buicks at night, often as a result of returning home from an event. We live in a country town so will often need some night driving, hence the Cibie QH headlamp conversion with relay fitted earlier. So bit the bullet a few weeks ago and ordered LED replacement bulbs for the instrument panel, shift dial, radio and rear courtesy lamps. 
 

Super Bright LEDs was my supplier of choice as I have had excellent results with my ‘63 Riviera and they stand behind their product, replacing free of charge including postage a failed bulb after 1 year of service without question. No, I don’t have any affiliation with them but happy with their product and service.

 

It was a simple matter of removing the instrument panel cover and replacing each globe in the twist sockets. I chose Warm White for the background lighting, red for HI BEAM and Amber to use in the TEMP and GEN warning lamps. Found that the LEDs didn’t work as well in these locations as the original incandescent bulbs, so used the Amber in the TURN SIGNALS either side.

 

Also added some white tape to the transmission indicator making it simple to select a gear. As you know our eyesight gets much better with age! 😀😀

 

The results were extremely good, clear easy to read gauges, especially the clock and fuel gauge. The Turn signals are almost blinding but easy to not leave on. The radio and transmission indicator dial are also easy to see. In summary they make the inside much more pleasant and inviting to be in as everything can be seen and read. 
 

The courtesy lamps are nice and bright without the heat which could destroy the lamp lenses over time. I left the front courtesy lamps and glovebox and ashtray lamps as incandescents as they won’t create issues. Can’t wait for the next evening drive! Anyway photos to show the results! 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited November 13, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Photo and information (see edit history)

[rodneybeauchamp]

So for something different, our small group of Cars N Coffee regulars set up a display of our cars in a local residential care facility where the staff and residents were able to get up close and personal with the cars for a couple of hours.
 

Feedback we got was it was a great success from the interest shown by those who came to look. And photos of the event sans residents as the facility did not want photos of residents put up without their families permission. What is this world coming to with privacy laws 😢😢😢😢😢

 

Speedo now reading 68,768 miles.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

Our latest accessory for our Buick Skylark. Not sure if it was in the Buick Accessory Brochure but he sure looks good!

Meet Billy, our five and a half month old Groodle, cross between a standard Poodle and Golden Retriever. All 22kgs and still not fully grown. 
 

Might need to upsize to a full size convertible!

 

Have not done much car stuff as we have been on holiday in Tasmania for nine weeks with our caravan and just returned. Last time I used the Skylark it disgraced itself by running out of fuel even though the gauge showed plenty. So another job on the list to sort 😔😔😔😔😔

 

But today was Cars and Coffee at our new venue by the foreshore in Victor Harbor. Great event with eighty plus cars turning up and the weather was kind for Mothers Day. Billy appreciated the ride with the top down with lots of fresh air and things to sniff. Once the fuel gauge issue is sorted then the Skylark will be put up for sale. There is another Buick coming and I need the garage space. Watch this space!
 

The Skylark has been an adventure and some fun but time for someone else to become the caretaker!

 

Anyway photos, otherwise it never happened. 😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

Edited May 14, 2023 by rodneybeauchamp
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[Machine Gun]

7 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

There is another Buick coming and I need the garage space. Watch this space!

I can't wait for the unveiling!

[rodneybeauchamp]

23 hours ago, Machine Gun said:

I can't wait for the unveiling!

Once I get confirmation it has landed here, then I will do a post with pictures. I can’t wait till it arrives, all very exciting 😀