1949 Chrysler Town and Country

[1949Chrysler]

Going on my 7th year of my late year ‘49 Town andCountry.  Working for a living continues to get in the way.  Few questions below:
1.  Convertible Top for my late year ‘49.  StayFast is the best?  Who is the best source for a new one?

2.  Paint.  Ensign Blue is the 1949 color name.  Does this convert to a paint Part Number?

3.  6volt verses 12 volt conversion?  Good idea?  Thoughts?

4.  Use the original mechanical Fuel pump or better to hide a 6v electric pump some where

5.  Hydraulics for the top.  Any leads on new pistons?  Pump?

        I am about to make my own steel lines.   Just before the lifting pistons is a 720 degree loop loop of the lines.  How do most folks form that large of diameter?

[TerryB]

These guys have been advertising their convertible top services for years.

www.hydroe.com. They are located in Florida.

[keiser31]

Here you go. It looks MUCH better this way....

[keiser31]

Saw this one years ago....

[TerryB]

Some people are using electric fuel pumps to solve hard hot engine starts when using ethanol gasoline.  Your engine had heat shields for the fuel pump, at the very least it would be good to make sure your engine has them installed.

[JFranklin]

Stay 6 Volt unless there is a specific reason to change. An electric pump will get the car started faster on cold starts and after sitting for a while. They can be set up just to add a boost if needed. It is easier on the starting motor if the gas is already up to the carburetor. My '48 Plymouth needed the missing heat shield replaced to solve the same problem of hard starts when hot. They had heat shields before we got stuck with ethanol laced gasoline.

Edited November 24, 2020 by JFranklin (see edit history)

[Grimy]

You asked about (Haartz) StayFast as a top material.  I strongly endorse it!  I've had tan StayFast on my 1930 Pierce-Arrow roadster for 20 years without it fading a bit.  Almost 40 years ago, I had expensive Haartz cloth (pre-Stayfast) tan top made for my Jeepster, and it faded to almost white in two years.  For that car, I wouldn't even look for a pre-cut top--I'd have it scratch-made.

[1949Chrysler]

8 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Here you go. It looks MUCH better this way....

Thanks, felt like I was getting dizzy turning my head.

[1949Chrysler]

9 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Saw this one years ago....

Saw another like your photo last year down in Los Angeles, Ca.  Was really beat and rusted.  Considered it for parts, but couldn’t find anything that was straight.

[c49er]

I wish I could easily rotate pictures that almost always seem to end up rotated wrong posted to forums...

I re-rotate to repost picture...upside down, sideways again.

Stupid.😡

[keiser31]

2 hours ago, c49er said:

I wish I could easily rotate pictures that almost always seem to end up rotated wrong posted to forums...

I re-rotate to repost picture...upside down, sideways again.

Stupid.😡

I sometimes crop the photo down a little so it is defined as longer rather than taller. That way, the computer seems to "know better" what is supposed to be the bottom of the photo.

[c49er]

Thanks for that tip!

Now back to the 49 T&C subject😄

Edited November 27, 2020 by c49er (see edit history)

[c49er]

On 11/23/2020 at 4:30 PM, JFranklin said:

Stay 6 Volt unless there is a specific reason to change. An electric pump will get the car started faster on cold starts and after sitting for a while. They can be set up just to add a boost if needed. It is easier on the starting motor if the gas is already up to the carburetor. My '48 Plymouth needed the missing heat shield replaced to solve the same problem of hard starts when hot. They had heat shields before we got stuck with ethanol laced gasoline.

I have two eight cylinder T&C's and a couple other eight Chryslers.

They all crank and start fine on six volts.

Proper heavy 2/0 battery cables, a good starter, quality ignition parts and a really good group two or.........I prefer the group four six volt battery as it's 900+ cranking amps ....way more than the group two at about 600 cca.

The group fours are also a little bigger and require slight tray and hold down modification but last up to six plus years for me.

Group two's max of three+ years.

All my Chrysler eight cars always start fine.

JMO.

[Rusty_OToole]

On 11/22/2020 at 11:07 PM, 1949Chrysler said:

1.  Convertible Top for my late year ‘49.  StayFast is the best?  Who is the best source for a new one?

2.  Paint.  Ensign Blue is the 1949 color name.  Does this convert to a paint Part Number?

3.  6volt verses 12 volt conversion?  Good idea?  Thoughts?

4.  Use the original mechanical Fuel pump or better to hide a 6v electric pump some where

5.  Hydraulics for the top.  Any leads on new pistons?  Pump?

        I am about to make my own steel lines.   Just before the lifting pistons is a 720 degree loop loop of the lines.  How do most folks form that large of diameter?

1. Can't help you there

2. Any good automotive paint company can mix the original color if you give them the name or the paint code off the firewall plate. Every painter has his favorite brand. Give the name and/or number to the paint store, if necessary they will get the formula from the company.

3. Keep it 6V. It is hard enough doing a decent conversion on a cheap car like a Chev or Ford, that had vacuum wipers and minimal electrical equipment. Your car with its electrically controlled transmission, electric wipers, complex heater system etc is practically impossible to do without messing it up. Save your money and sanity, keep it 6V, rebuild or replace worn out generator, starter etc as necessary.

4. Keep the original fuel pump. If it has never been rebuilt, rebuild it. Modern fuel eats up old fuel pump diaphragms. If your pump has been rebuilt in the last 30 years it is probably ok. Be sure you have the original heat shield in place and route the fuel line away from exhaust heat.

5. Don't know about the pump but you can form neat bends with a tubing bender, or by bending it around a pulley or large round pipe or similar object.

Edited November 29, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[keithb7]

I can share my experience and thoughts on a couple of points.

 

6V - Stay with 6V. There is nothing wrong with the system when it is properly maintained. I fear that more often than not an attempt to deal with lack of understanding, lack of proper maintenance is to change the electrical system up to 12V.

 

The 6V hidden fuel pump. It's a good thing. I have one car with a secondary back up electric pump. It works off a switch on the dash. I turn it on after the car has been sitting a long time. Primes the fuel system nicely. Its also a nice contingency plan if you find yourself effected by heat soak, after the hot car was shut down on a hot day. Or vapour lock. The electric pump will push through. As you mentioned, the pump can be hidden. It's a good improvement to help deal with ethanol.

 

My other vintage Chrysler car only uses the mechanical fuel pump. It is reliable however has left me stranded for few hours. Until fuel lines cooled down.