1937McBuick Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Where are people getting their stainless trim straightened or repaired? Polishing isn't what I'm looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 The shop that does polishing will most likely do or have someone that does the prep work. I had a piece of trim done once and the repaired area turned out smoother than the rest of the piece. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 Try a piece yourself... You may be surprized how talented you are.!!! I did all my trim on 53 pontiac 4 door... Very rewarding also when you can say " I did that " 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 16 hours ago, 1937McBuick said: Where are people getting their stainless trim straightened or repaired? Polishing isn't what I'm looking for. We have a well known member here that does it for his own cars and his friends cars........but I am not sure he is still doing it.........so I don't want to out him........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937McBuick Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 29 minutes ago, edinmass said: We have a well known member here that does it for his own cars and his friends cars........but I am not sure he is still doing it.........so I don't want to out him........ .........BUT it's for a Buick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 9, 2020 Share Posted November 9, 2020 That's all right.....Buick or Auburn...........he can handle it!😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937McBuick Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 9 hours ago, john hess said: Try a piece yourself... You may be surprized how talented you are.!!! I did all my trim on 53 pontiac 4 door... Very rewarding also when you can say " I did that " What kind of tools did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) Depending on what needs to be done basic body tools, down to pick and file. Practice on some scrap and you will see just what tools you will need. Edited November 10, 2020 by JFranklin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 Stuff I had in the barn... Seriously... I was gonna take a picture of things I used.. but worked late tonight... But, a few things are..... PVC pipe.. scrap pieces laying around... 4" 2" 1"..... Used these to recurve some side moldings... Lay pipe on table, roll trim over top with light pressure, twisting as needed.. works on edges also to take out twists... Hardwood dowel.... Phone book... Small cobbler hammer... Paint can opener from Lowes... Put this in vise to reshape lip of trim pieces.... Get creative in your tools... Whatever works... Hardwood dowel on phonebook for bigger dents.. use hammer with light taps... Also hardwood piece can be used to rub out some small dents.. there is no need for special tools at first.... You probably already have most things already.... I will say.. as you proceed, you will find new ways to fix your unique pieces... Next will be filing, sanding ,polishing..... I actually gets addicting as you discover how nice you can repair your own parts.... Take some time on a spare piece if you have any.. have a beer.. watch the results of your labor.... You can do it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937McBuick Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 Thanks for the encouragement you guys. If something is "stretched", what's the remedy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) You would need shrinking tools or heat/quench cycles. Try not to stretch your piece in the initial work. if the part is badly damaged or stretched already you may need a professional, but at least play with some scrap and make your own call. Edited November 10, 2020 by JFranklin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 The head of a stout roofing nail works good to get under rolled over edges. I've done it enough that I've found to work out the worst parts first once you get used to doing it as It's a shame to work out all the small spots only to discover you can't get the worst spot good enough to be happy with it. Unless it's a few small dings, for fairly common cars, it's easier to buy better pieces to start with. I've also discovered for the most noticeable damage you see there are about 10 other spots that will need a little attention as well to be happy with the whole pieces when you are done. Then there is the buffing phase which sometimes when you try to get that one spot just a little better you screw up and start all over as you ran off the wheel and hit the arbor, or worst yet. It got caught and projected across the driveway as I do my buffing outside. Tools vary by the job, but I use that roofing nail a small body hammer with a point, a bolt with a smooth head, sometimes woking with the bolt in a vise and working the molding from the face and not the back. It all depends. Post a picture of the molding if you get a chance. Just curious to see what you are up against. I did a 39 Buick Rocker molding that was pretty crushed and even amazed myself at how good I was able to get it. (I'm to busy to take on any projects now anyways, but it's just a lot of patience and thousands of little blows. ) Big wide moldings are much hard than smaller more curvaceous ones as mentioned the metal gets stretched and it takes alot to chase that stretched metal to an edge. I did a front splash pan on my 51 Dodge wit ha big wanger in the middle, someone decided to beat out with a ball pein hammer. That was a pain. Probably should have bought the NOS one for $100. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 Just be advised a buffing wheel is the most dangerous power tool in your shop and when it happens it happens FAST.........Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937McBuick Posted November 11, 2020 Author Share Posted November 11, 2020 I should take better pictures, some are poor. The bottom that is beat up the most might matter the least. Not that I am not fussy, its just probably not easily seen because of it's position..... but if it isn't "good", I'll know..... and that probably matters more to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 (edited) If you want to see how it is done, look up Cold War Motors videos on Youtube, about the restoration of a 1960 Plymouth Fury he pulled out of a barnyard. The man is an artist when it comes to working metal. He showed one strip of stainless about 3 feet long, with 3 or 4 dime size dents, and remarked that it took 4 hours to straighten and polish but when he was done it looked like new. Here is one video, there are others Edited November 12, 2020 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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