Dash top removes for Vintage Air install??

[TampaRiv]

Hello guys,   I'm starting to plan for a Vintage Air system in my '63 Riviera.

 

   I have a local guy here in Tampa who is a crack restorer, and has done a number of these installations, and his work looks top-notch.    My question:  did I read/hear somewhere that the dash pad can be easily removed on the Riv, allowing for full access to the dash from the top?

 

   I thought I read this with regards to accessing the gauges, but I might have dreamed this.    Let me know, and thanks as always for your helpful responses.

 

Rich in Tampa

[RivNut]

Yes it allows "access," but in order to remove all the old stuff, you'll still need to remove that side of the dash, glove box, knee pad. Take it down to its bones.

[TampaRiv]

Thanks RivNut.  Can you be more specific?

[RivNut]

To get the evaporator out, you'll need complete access through the front. It will not come out through the top. Nor will the new unit "drop in" from the top.  Might as well stock up on the merthiolate and a box of Bandaids. Set aside some time.  I'm just reiterating comments of others. I'm sure there are many threads if you'll search for them.

[psychostang]

If the cost isn't too bad, it might be worth it to just let him take care of it.

[Turbinator]

I had my evaporator box two maybe three times.

No need to take out the dash pad. If you ever do take out the dash pad taking out the A pillars makes removal re install much easier.

Ed is right the evaporator box drops down. Take out the glove box.

i did not take out the knee pad. 
Many have said take out the passenger seat. I did not take the seat out, but I probably should have taken the seat out.

Be watchful of a wide (4”) band that seals the plenum of evaporator box. You may need the band.

Probably easier to unhook the AC hoses with the evaporator on the floor.    Unhook the hoses under the hood as you’ll need the slack.

The AC evaporator box and heater box are pretty high on difficulty. Now, I’m no mechanic noR  mechanical and I found the job real hard.

Had I do over I believe I would have done the same As you by getting a replacement AC.

Please post any pics you have of the new install. That would be a great service to the first gen zRiviera owners.

Turbinator

[RivNut]

If I remember what I read correctly, the bigger problem will be putting the Vintage air unit in. Because it's a one piece unit, it's larger than the evaporator you're removing. If you're not sure of what you're doing, or your body isn't either, this is a job best left to a professional.

[TexRiv_63]

I did a VA install myself on my 63, it is involved but not really all that difficult if you are a decent mechanic. To do it right you need to remove the console, passenger seat, dash pad and the entire dash center and passenger sections. Once all the stock A/C and heater parts are removed and the firewall is modified and closed up, the VA unit will fit from underneath. I can supply a full set of photos, if interested send me a PM with your e-mail address.

[BulldogDriver]

I have just finished doing a Vintage Air Gen 4 install in my 63. Here are the caveats I had.

 

1. If you have the means to pull the engine, it is a lot easier to do the job. I can send you a pattern for the firewall blank. 

2. Placement of the evaporator unit can be a challenge. By flipping the front bracket upside down and rebending the bracket to sit flush on the unit, it gives yuo the ability to bend the bottom up to the valance for securing to the dash. This doesn’t effect functionality. To gain clearance for the ac and heater hoses I had to center the floor vents over the center of the floor hump. This caused the radio depth to be decreased by 1 1/2” so I am going to go with an aftermarket radio that is retro in appearance. The rear bracket is mounted to the firewall with 1/2” standoffs from the factory. There is only 10 1/2” clearance to fit the evaporator between the firewall and valance. Too tight to get the unit in and mounted for my installation. I did not use them and went with the braket mounted directly to the firewall after installing sound deadening mat and insulation mat. I made brackets to do this but you can do it with bolts through the firewall blank. Once the evaporator is Installed and plumbed it should not be a problem in removing it if needed. 

 

3. The original Control panel can be used and I also moved the fresh air vent cables to the panel. Using the original cables from the ac is possible but I had a set of Old Air cables and modified the ends that attach to the levelers using the ends from the original cables. Only one lever is not used and I wire tied it off.  Heater hoses can be gotten to have it look very clean on the engine and I wired everything up inside to keep it out of the way for the other installed stuff.

4. I made up a bracket to hold the condenser in front of the radiator. It also holds a transmission cooler for the 4L65E transmission no in the car. You should be able to do it with the brackets that come with the condenser. I did have to cut a notch over by the drier to get #8 line to fit properly. I used hoses everywhere as hard lines could not be bent close enough for my install. The heater hose adapters going through the firewall are reversed to have them lineup with the evaporator as I didn’t use the standoffs.

 

Ask questions if needed.

 

Ray

 

 

Edited September 23, 2020 by BulldogDriver
Additional info (see edit history)

[TampaRiv]

Thanks all who responded.  The photos and advice will be most helpful. 

[jframe]

On 9/23/2020 at 12:16 PM, TexRiv_63 said:

I did a VA install myself on my 63, it is involved but not really all that difficult if you are a decent mechanic. To do it right you need to remove the console, passenger seat, dash pad and the entire dash center and passenger sections. Once all the stock A/C and heater parts are removed and the firewall is modified and closed up, the VA unit will fit from underneath. I can supply a full set of photos, if interested send me a PM with your e-mail address.

Not to jump in, but I have a Vintage Air unit on my 65 installed by the previous owner. It it integrated into the factory a/c vents that were on the car. Is there a way to adapt the a/c duct hose to the center vent a little better?

 The duct hose is round, and the vent is oblong, so the installer used a/c tape to take up the difference in an attempt to seal. It works ok, but I feel like I may be losing a lot of air at this juncture.

[TexRiv_63]

22 hours ago, jframe said:

Not to jump in, but I have a Vintage Air unit on my 65 installed by the previous owner. It it integrated into the factory a/c vents that were on the car. Is there a way to adapt the a/c duct hose to the center vent a little better?

 The duct hose is round, and the vent is oblong, so the installer used a/c tape to take up the difference in an attempt to seal. It works ok, but I feel like I may be losing a lot of air at this juncture.

I also used the stock vents. To adapt them to the smaller round duct hoses I bought a Vintage Air dual feed outlet, cut the plastic backs off which are designed to do the necessary adaption, and attached them to the stock vent with silicone. Worked well, unfortunately no photos.

[BulldogDriver]

Vintage Air part number is 63016-VUL. I did a bit more than what’s needed to fit these into the vent. A little trial and error sanding should allow them to fit just fine.

 

Ray

 

 

[TexRiv_63]

17 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:

Vintage Air part number is 63016-VUL. I did a bit more than what’s needed to fit these into the vent. A little trial and error sanding should allow them to fit just fine.

 

Ray

 

 

That's it!