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TampaRiv

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Everything posted by TampaRiv

  1. Thanks Tom, At this point , I just figure that having a working speedometer just isn't worth the effort. I can't see going to the effort of removing the tailhousing to recover the gear, and then....where do I get the gear?? Nobody seems to know where to get the gears, even Charlie isn't sure. I give up. Even with the luxury of working with a lift, it still is just too much hassle. Kinda like the window fuzzie debacle. And I know you guys are gonna bust my balls like I'm some kinda amateur who doesn't know what he's doing, but rest assured that is not the case. I just know when to cut my losses and start driving the cars.
  2. Thanks Telriv. This whole speedo thing is a nightmare. The gear broke off inside the transmission. Psychostang's guy Charlie is telling me that I need to retrieve the broken gear out of the tranny, so the teeth can be counted. SO.....assuming that the broken-off gear wheel thingy is intact in one piece and isn't shredded to bits, then I have to drop the pan and hope that the thing is in there and can actually be found. The place where the gear inserts into the transmission is not really in good proximity to the pan itself, so if it broke off and wasn't ground up, what are the odds that it ended up in the pan?? I guess I'll find out........
  3. Thanks Andy, yeah, I still have the Dynaflow. Here's what came out of the transmission this afternoon. SO, any idea as to what plastic thingy I need to restore my speedo? Ed? Jim? Anyone?
  4. Hello gents, I am enjoying my new 4-post lift. I bought it gently used off FB or CL, and with the help of my lovely wife, we got it re-assembled last Saturday, and now I am having fun underneath working on the '67 Newport. Next up I will get the '63 Riv up there and remove the speedo gear so I can get a replacement, and hopefully restore the speedometer. SO, once again, where do I get the new speedo gear and new speedo cable?? I have visited this problem a couple of times, but now that I don't need to depend on a disinterested mechanic shop to do the job, I can actually get the job done. Thanks for any recommendations for vendors for the speedo gear and cable. Cheers from Tampa, Rich
  5. Thanks Paul. I am quite happy with the result. I believe it took a total of 11 new bulbs, I think 7 of which were 194 bulbs, and the rest were 57 bulbs (not 1157). But don't quote me on the count. The bulbs are cheap enough, so if you buy a 10-pack of 194s, you'll have enough, and likewise with a 6-pack of 57 led bulbs. Here's a link to the 194s I bought. Cheers from Tampa, Rich. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C5997M7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. Point taken Chasander, I did not know that Joe had his share of deferments, like Cheney. I do know that Joe never proclaimed with joy how he "fell in love" with Kim Jong Un, and I never saw a Biden T-shirt which stated "I'd rather be Russian than a Republican". Back in the day where I come from, that kind of talk would have gotten your ass kicked at best.
  7. Hey Robert, The needles DO NOT come off the speedo. Once the chrome bezel is removed (One allen screw at the bottom), you will see six 1/4" hex screws. ONLY 3 of these hold the speedo in place. BUT...It really isn't completely necessary to remove the speedo in order to replace the 3 bulbs behind it. Once the bezel is off you will see the 3 bulbs; one at 12 o'clock, one at 5 o'clock, and one at 7 o'clock. The one at 7 is easy to do, reach in and twist out the socket and swap the bulb, re-insert. The one at 12 isn't too bad either, reach over the top to get it. The one at 5 is a bitch. If you can get in there with needle-nosed pliers and pluck out the bulb, then install the new one the same way, try that. If the speedo has to come out, you will un-screw the speedo cable and then the 3 hex screws, and take loose the trip odometer cable. The speedo will pull straight out, but there is a wire attached to the back of it, so detatch that too. You'll need to reach in and guide the trip cable as you pull the speedo out. Be careful not to bend those needles! As an edit to this post, I should add that removing the speedometer will not appreciably facilitate the swap of the 5-o'clock bulb from the back.
  8. Hey Jim what's the proceedure for removing the dash pad? frankly, the thought of doing it scares me.
  9. Encore? Is Renault selling cars in the US again?😉
  10. Yes, they are dimmable. Oddly, for me, having some ambient light helps me see at night. This is the same reason I don't like to watch TV in the dark. But, I have yet to take the car out and drive it at night. I'll post the results when I do. Thanks Ed.
  11. These were the Americans who, rather than getting some bogus deferment, enlisted and served to vanquish murderous evil dictators, rather than "falling in love" with them.
  12. Well, Tom, I did take the bezels off, and even removed the speedometer. And the illumination bulbs are easy to see, so they are easy to remove from the front with some needle-nosed pliers. BUT, when you try to insert the new bulb in the socket, the required pressure can break the socket and it falls down in behind the dash somewhere. After doing that twice, I started to apply a little bit of Vaseline to the bulb, which worked well. However, replacing any of the "idiot" lights (RH bezel) from the front is not possible. If you remove the RH bezel you will see what I mean. So, with respect to the "idiot" lights, the answer is to reach up through the access panels and twist out the socket, replace the bulbs, and reach the socket back in and twist them back into their respective holes. Easier said than done if, like me, you are well-endowed in the hand department if you know what I mean. But, as usual, I got 'er done!
  13. I just searched Amazon for 194 LED bulbs. A number of options came up, and some had the LEDs oriented left and right. Those don't work as well in the dash. SO, I then repeated that search, and bought some that have what I would describe as a white "nose" on them. Those were much brighter. A 12 pack cost $9.99. I chose WHITE, but they offer different colors. ALSO, I dropped two of the sockets as I was removing them to do the replacement. SO, I had to order a set of sockets from a donor Riv that I found on ebay. I even dropped one of those, so luckily I was covered. Now there are three of those things just sitting under the dash somewhere....
  14. I just finished putting LED 194 bulbs in the dash of the Riv. It really makes a world of difference. Looks very crisp. It wasn't easy, it wasn't hard. There are two removable panels under the dash on either side of the steering column. This gives access to the backside of the two round gauge clusters. There are small removable sockets that the bulbs plug in to, and the socket twist into the back of the dash. Being a contorsionist helps. Also, the LED bulbs are polarity sensitive, so it may be necessary to install and then re-install.
  15. Hello from Tampa. I made my own door veneers from some very nice Wilsonart laminate. I templated the originals and router-cut the Wilsonart, resulting in a very nice set of veneers. I had enough material to make 4 sets, and I have one set remaining for sale. Two other members have bought my sets, and I saw a member's car last weekend after he installed the set, and it looked fantastic. $75 includes shipping to your location in the lower 48.
  16. I can't speak to the Communists gifting this virus to the world, but the Pearl Harbor attack was the result of a dictator trying to grab power, and his followers willing to go along with the madness. Sound familiar?
  17. Well, sure, if I were still 35 years old, I'd slither under that car and pull that gear right out of there. Now at 62, not so much! My neck is still recovering from the headliner installation 18 months ago! I'll just pay the guy with the lift to remove the gear for me. I do plenty of other stuff.😌
  18. Thanks Tom, that makes perfect sense. Question: will the transmission leak fluid with the cable removed? I need to take the car to a shop to have them remove the gear...I just can't reach it.
  19. Hello again Gents, I need some more speedo advice. My speedo was working well after I recomissioned the car, but after a couple of months it stopped working. Long story short, I have removed and tested the speedometer head in the dash, and it seems to work just fine; today I removed the speedometer cable, and while it's old and gnarly, it actually turns OK. It's 50" long. So, after visiting this topic a time or two, remind me about the nylon drive gear in the tranny, which I now assume to be the problem. I recall that the gears vary with respect to the type of differential, so how do you know which gear is correct? I've heard tell that there are numbers on the differential, but I just could not see any numbers, and my car is clean underneath. SO... how do I figure out which gear I need, and where do I buy that gear? Rich
  20. Ahhh, the old "loose wire" problem. the next time this comes up on the forum, I'm just gonna reply "loose wire"!
  21. As I look at my wiring diagram in the chassis manual, it appears the black wire off the ignition switch runs directly to the + side of the coil, with no stop-off at the fuse box.
  22. Well, this is the problem PWB. The speedo head works fine. But the cable, when disconnected at the transmission and spun with a drill, does not turn and cause the speedo to register. Then, as I mentioned, I disconnected the speedo head, jacked up the back end of the car, and ran the car in gear as I observed the speedo cable in front of me, and it didn't turn. This is telling me the cable is broken internally.
  23. I like the lobe sensing Pertronix kits. I put one on my Riv, and all was fine from the start. Same story with my '67 Newport with 383. Glad to hear you're making progress, I know how vexing these electrical problems can be.
  24. I like CROWVET's idea. If you aren't getting voltage at the + side of the coil, a temporary wire from the battery to the + side of the coil should remedy this condition, allowing the car to start. This is the same issue I had with my 67 Chrysler when the ammeter died, and the same wire got the car started. Same principle. If the car does start, then the timing isn't the issue, and there's no reason to think timing is the problem in my opinion. And, as has been already mentioned, get the voltmeter on the + side of the coil, and have someone operate the key "on" and off (not cranking). When the key is "on", the meter should read out close to 12V. If no readout with the key in the "on" position, then 2 possibilities: one, the ignition switch is faulty, or two, the wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil is faulty and may be grounding out somewhere under the dash. On my Riv, the wire from the points out of the distributor to the (-) side of the coil was faulty. The small wire was broken internally somewhere, and I couldn't get a consistent readout from the coil to the points. My eureka moment occurred when I thought of putting a pertronix lobe sensing kit in the car, and when I did, the car proceeded to start up after not running for 22 years with the previous owner. But that's not your issue, I only mention this to advocate for the Pertronix kit, with which I've never had any issues in 4 different cars. And I mention this to suggest that the wiring is old and could possibly be faulty from the ignition switch to the coil. Finally, the starter seems like an unlikely culprit, since the car died while you were driving it. I wonder if the "miss" you heard/felt was the engine dieseling a bit after the juice died.
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