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Everything posted by TampaRiv

  1. Hello again Gents, I need some more speedo advice. My speedo was working well after I recomissioned the car, but after a couple of months it stopped working. Long story short, I have removed and tested the speedometer head in the dash, and it seems to work just fine; today I removed the speedometer cable, and while it's old and gnarly, it actually turns OK. It's 50" long. So, after visiting this topic a time or two, remind me about the nylon drive gear in the tranny, which I now assume to be the problem. I recall that the gears vary with respect to the type of differential, so how do you know which gear is correct? I've heard tell that there are numbers on the differential, but I just could not see any numbers, and my car is clean underneath. SO... how do I figure out which gear I need, and where do I buy that gear? Rich
  2. Ahhh, the old "loose wire" problem. the next time this comes up on the forum, I'm just gonna reply "loose wire"!
  3. As I look at my wiring diagram in the chassis manual, it appears the black wire off the ignition switch runs directly to the + side of the coil, with no stop-off at the fuse box.
  4. Well, this is the problem PWB. The speedo head works fine. But the cable, when disconnected at the transmission and spun with a drill, does not turn and cause the speedo to register. Then, as I mentioned, I disconnected the speedo head, jacked up the back end of the car, and ran the car in gear as I observed the speedo cable in front of me, and it didn't turn. This is telling me the cable is broken internally.
  5. I like the lobe sensing Pertronix kits. I put one on my Riv, and all was fine from the start. Same story with my '67 Newport with 383. Glad to hear you're making progress, I know how vexing these electrical problems can be.
  6. I like CROWVET's idea. If you aren't getting voltage at the + side of the coil, a temporary wire from the battery to the + side of the coil should remedy this condition, allowing the car to start. This is the same issue I had with my 67 Chrysler when the ammeter died, and the same wire got the car started. Same principle. If the car does start, then the timing isn't the issue, and there's no reason to think timing is the problem in my opinion. And, as has been already mentioned, get the voltmeter on the + side of the coil, and have someone operate the key "on" and off (not cranking). When the key is "on", the meter should read out close to 12V. If no readout with the key in the "on" position, then 2 possibilities: one, the ignition switch is faulty, or two, the wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil is faulty and may be grounding out somewhere under the dash. On my Riv, the wire from the points out of the distributor to the (-) side of the coil was faulty. The small wire was broken internally somewhere, and I couldn't get a consistent readout from the coil to the points. My eureka moment occurred when I thought of putting a pertronix lobe sensing kit in the car, and when I did, the car proceeded to start up after not running for 22 years with the previous owner. But that's not your issue, I only mention this to advocate for the Pertronix kit, with which I've never had any issues in 4 different cars. And I mention this to suggest that the wiring is old and could possibly be faulty from the ignition switch to the coil. Finally, the starter seems like an unlikely culprit, since the car died while you were driving it. I wonder if the "miss" you heard/felt was the engine dieseling a bit after the juice died.
  7. Ed, what about the cable that CARS in NJ sells? I see that OPG does not vend a cable (surprisingly), but I don't know where else to buy one. I'd call Jim Kehr, but he always seems so busy. I guess the simple answer is to remove the old cable and see how long it is.
  8. Thank you kindly Bob. That's exactly the info I needed.
  9. Hi gents. I need to replace my speedo cable, but I see there are varying lengths available. Can anyone tell me the length of the cable that is for my '63 Riviera? I had the car in the shop for a brake bleed a while back, so I asked the mechanic if he could test the speedometer. He disconnected the cable at the transmission, and spun the cable with a drill, but there was no readout at the speedometer head. I subsequently removed the head, and spun it with drill, and it works just fine. SO, I am assuming that the cable has broken somewhere between the tranny and the speedometer head. But I don't know which cable is correct and how long it should be. ALSO, are there any special tricks to removing/re-installing the cable, besides being young and agile and having cartilege? I call this kind of operation "car yoga" because of all the weird positions you need to assume to do it! Thanks guys, Rich in Tampa
  10. Personally, given the state of music these days, I'd have to pass on a car that actually had a working radio!!😉
  11. Not sure what that part is, but you made me want to crack a cold Point Beer!!
  12. Yes, jdj5000, I bought my Riv in Largo, pretty close to the Gulf. Are you in Florida? BTW, I used the SEM product "Sailcloth" vinyl paint to re-do my seats and door panels, it works great and looks good. Here's a shot of my back door card, painted with the SEM vinyl paint, and with fresh Wilsonart laminate veneer I just posted about a few days ago. Fell free to email me at richardreau@hotmail.com with any questions. You are doing exactly what I started doing almost 2 years ago.
  13. I have 2 sets of Wilsonart laminate door veneers for the 63-65 Riviera. I replaced the veneers in my car, and had enough material left over to make a couple of extra sets. 4 pieces, two front, two back seat. $75, shipping included within the lower 48. Thanks, Rich in Tampa
  14. Great stories fellas, I never knew of Ternstedt until I removed that trim panel. It's just funny that I bought the car in Tampa after moving from Columbus.
  15. Thanks J3. I wanted something maintenance-free, and I have a lot of experience working with laminate. I continued on with the console because I thought the color wasn't too over-the-top. I realize the '63s didn't use veneer on the console, but the black vinyl wasn't too exciting, especially for a "personal luxury" car.
  16. Thanks XFRAMEFX, The contact cement that the previous Formica inserts had been applied with failed, probably due to heat inside the car. That's why I went with the silicone. My ash tray assembly is gone, so I just cut a piece of 1/4" PVC and covered it with the laminate, and found that tri shield on ebay out of St. Petersburg. The guy sells them in pairs, brand new.
  17. Well, with a simple search on the interwebs, I found my own answer. It's an American tale of the rise and fall of the middle class. I was just a boy in those days. But I know every inch of that area, and I can tell you that to this day it hasn't recovered. This is the problem with capitalism in my opinion: the bottom line is money and how cheaply something can be produced without regard to the standard of living of the guys and gals on the line doing the work. Sure, in the 50s, it worked great as you can read in this excellent article from Columbus Monthly. But eventually greed took over, production was exported to countries paying their workers very low wages, and us Americans were left holding the bag. Now here we are, wondering where to go from here. Read this article, it's informative from a collector car standpoint and a historical Americana standpoint. https://www.columbusmonthly.com/article/20141222/NEWS/312229435
  18. Hello again Riviera brothers, As I continue the re-hab of my door panels, I removed the veneer section of the driver's side tonight, and discovered this stamp on the backside of the panel. Does anybody know what this stamp means? I know there was a Fisher Guide plant in my hometown of Columbus, Ohio. It was located on the west side where I grew up. It's long closed now, many years shuttered then finally demolished to make way for a casino.
  19. Thanks fellas. Ed, the laminate sheet (Wilsonart "Zanzibar") comes in a 4X8 sheet, so the grain runs the full 96 inches. The holes were easily cut with a 1.25" spade bit on the bench. Re:the console piece, I peeled off the original black vinyl, and used it to create a jig in 3/4" plywood. Next, I used a couple of small dots of hot glue to adhere the laminate to the jig, then I was able to router-cut the piece using my laminate router with a piloted laminate bit. I separated the cut piece from the jig with a drywall knife. I then fastened a 1.5" wood dowel to the bench, indexed the location of the bend on the backside of the piece, and used a heat gun on the piece to bend it. After some very patient fitting/sanding/adjusting, I had that bent piece perfectly cut. I attached the upper portion first, clamping it securely at the bend. Once it set at the bend, I then glued the portion around the shifter in place using tiny spring clamps from Harbor Fake tool. It took 4 tries to do that center piece....the first one I broke while sanding on it; two of them I marred, and finally I got smart and covered it in blue tape.
  20. Hello Gents. Last week I posted about door veneers, and got a lot of valuable input on the subject. Mine had been long-replaced with laminate, but it wasn't done so well, so I decided to re-do them. I chose laminate again, figuring it would be easier to work with than real wood veneer. Here's how I did it.... I removed the old Formica from the panels and scraped off all the old contact cement from the substrate. I then wiped it down with acetone to completely clean the surface. I templated some jigs to match the pieces, then router-cut them, and test fitted them to make sure they were accurate. I then took a sharpie marker and went around the inner perimeter to black out any gaps, which were minimal. Once the substrate was ready, I assembled 10 really strong magnets, 10 laminate chip cards, and a tube of clear silicone caulk. I applied the silicone in fine beads, pressed the laminate into place, and applied the magnets to hold the veneers in place. I even did the console, and it looks factory! I had enough material to make 2 extra sets of door panels, which I can ship to your location for $100, shipping included. Let me know if you are interested. These look great, fit well, are easy to install. Rich
  21. Did the '63 Riv have quatersawn Oak, or quartersawn Walnut?
  22. I decided to go with laminate. I found a very nice Wilsonart Walnut-looking laminate, very close to the original wood color. I have about 3/4s of the pieces made and installed, they look fantastic. Unfortunately I'm having camera issues, but once the job is completed I will post photos of the finished product.
  23. Welcome JDJ5000, I got in league with these guys about 18 months ago, and they've really helped me with my '63. They know their stuff.
  24. Thanks Ed. Sure, I'd like to see the set you've got, go ahead and post the photos here on this thread, I'm sure everyone would be interested in seeing them too. Rich
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