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Everything posted by TampaRiv

  1. Hello from Tampa, I have a nice set of wire spinner hubcaps for sale if anyone is interested. I'm going with hubcaps, so this set of 4 is available. No road rash, no scrapes. $125 plus shipping. Thanks, Rich
  2. Wow, two German guys with Rivieras. I love it. And here I have a Riv and a '75 2002. I would love to be passed by these guys on the Autobahn in those Rivs, as I only had the balls to cruise 115mph as I drove from Munich up to Hamburg. Germany is a beautiful country.
  3. OK guys, so if I understand this correctly, each balancer is custom balanced to each crankshaft? And how on earth would it be possible to know if any replacement balancer would be compatible with any given crankshaft, until you install it and put everything back together and start the engine? I see that the CARS guys (oldbuickparts.com) will rebuild my old balancer for $154. That seems like a decent price. But, given that I don't think my current balancer is original to the car, then what? Sorry to be a PITA, I just don't quite understand all of this.
  4. Thanks Tom. So, where do I buy another unit? Any special considerations in picking one out?
  5. Thank you Tom. I will clean up the unit tomorrow and get some good photos of the keyway. I really appreciate your help. My email is richardreau@hotmail.com. Rich
  6. Thank you Pete for the input, it's most helpful. Here are a few photos of the unit I removed.
  7. Hello Gents, As you know I got my '63 Teal Mist started a couple of weeks ago. There was a gawd-awful noise coming from below, and I realized that the crank pulley/harmonic balancer was as loose as a goose down there. As I went to take the thing off, I found the crank bolt was tight, but the pulley wasn't tight against the crankshaft. It was weird. Then as I sift through the exhaustive receipts from the previous owners, there seem to be at least 2 or 3 receipts for....you guessed it...harmonic balancers. So, here are my questions of the day..... *Why harmonic balancer instead of just a simple crank pulley like every other car I've owned? *Is the 401 somehow out of balance by design, and therefore needs a balancer? *My pulley/balancer looks OK, it just appears that there's a washer missing, allowing the damn thing to spin in a clanking wobbly orbit. Thanks guys for your help, I appreciate it.
  8. Thanks gents, the cars look great, I aspire to such a nice looking engine bay. Anybody ever do their own headliner? I am planning to replace mine this weekend. Compared to other cars I've owned, the headliner in the Riv doesn't look all that difficult (but I've never done one on any car). Any hints or tips would be appreciated. RE: correctness....the metal pieces that surround the headliner, on my car, are painted an off white...turns out it's Heirloom White from Home Depot. Then would the attaching screws also be painted white, or would they be chrome? Somehow I feel like white would look better.
  9. I certainly do see a lot of photos of the 401 in the teal/mint green. I see vintage stuff showing the engine in that color. Did they use both colors, silver and mint? Also, what is under the flat cover tray that is underneath the intake manifold? Is the camshaft under that cover? Is that cover tray easily removed (for painting), and is there a gasket available for re-assembly? Thanks again from Tampa, where the weather was just beautiful today (as most days), and the traffic was awful (as most days). Perfect for a guy working on a '63 Riviera who only has to go to the corner store for beverages.🍺
  10. Hmmm, thanks RivNut. My engine block is stamped with the number 7J1092186, and that's the same number that appears on the body tag located on the cowl on the driver's side. However, after closer examination, I can see that the red was painted over silver on the valve covers. So, the Buick green was never used on the Riviera? Thanks for the info, I'm really enjoying working on the Riv and getting to know the Riviera community. Here's another question....do you guys like this oldbuickparts place out of New Jersey? They seem to have a good selection and prices seem tolerable. Besides OPG, are there any other good suppliers for old Riv parts?
  11. Great photos kreed, thanks for the reply. My engine is numbers-matching, but I wonder why there isn't a speck of silver to be seen? 😕
  12. Hi again from Tampa. I was wondering what the correct color or colors for the 401 would be. My '63 has red valve covers, and a red air cleaner. Somehow I thought that the Buick green was correct, but the red on my 401 looks original. Maybe I'm wrong. Anybody? ALSO....What can anybody tell me about the AC system in my '63 Riv? It hasn't operated in 20 years, and I have no experience or knowledge in automotive AC systems. Anything you can tell me will be appreciated. Rich
  13. Hello gents, Many thanks for all your input on my spark-less '63 Riv. As you all know, the thing hadn't started in 20 years. I brought it home and prepped it for starting, but the first problem was slow cranking. Many thanks to Jim Cannon for his help as I tried to track down the reason for the lack of spark. But despite many hours testing and re-testing, I just could not figure out why there wasn't any (negative) juice coming out of the distributor. Then this morning, I had this crazy idea of putting a Pertronix ignition kit in the thing. Dumb luck had me passing a speed shop here in Tampa, and they actually had the right kit (at $5 cheaper than the CARS outfit in NJ). So I bought the kit and put it in, and a couple of sprays of starting fluid later the thing kicked off! It runs if I put gas in the carb, but the fuel pump is shot so it doesn't run for long. OH, and the slow cranking? Well, I'm embarrassed to say that the water pump is seized. After the thing ran a few seconds, I could see the belts smoking, so I knew what was up. I cut the old belts off and the thing cranked great. I am stoked now! Two issues: one is that the crank pulley/harmonic balancer was loose down there and clanking around like a banshee. The crank bolt was tight, but the pulley was not. Issue 2 is that there is some valve train noise, but I suppose that is to be expected until the thing warms up and some oil gets flowing. So, thanks again for the help and encouragement. Next job is to replace or rebuild all the bolt-on stuff under the hood and get the thing humming like a clean machine. Rich in Tampa
  14. Thanks Demon, I have a mechanic who's in the BMW 2002 club coming over to help with some diagnostics. I appreciate all the help here.
  15. Hey Jeff, judging from the date signature on your photos, you may have set your clock too far ahead!😉
  16. Hi again Gary. No luck yet. I'm starting to think that my engine is suffering from the same problem yours did...just gummed up and need rebuilt. And I'd be OK with that, but I gotta find a shop here in Tampa. Anyone know of a shop down here?
  17. Hello from Tampa, is here a tutorial on headliner installation on this forum. I searched "headliner" but only this thread popped up. I do see some videos on youtube. Some of those videos kinda scared me, but looking at my 63 Riv headliner, it looks pretty straightforward. Any advice? Rich
  18. Of course. I removed the line from the gas tank going into the fuel pump, and attached a new line from there to the gas can. I must seem like a real dummy...
  19. Thanks KongaMan, yes, the cylinders were lubricated, fluids drained and replaced, and most ignition parts were replaced. Gas is being drawn from a can on the ground (though no draw as yet). I have used some starting fluid, but no dice. Jim C. is walking me through some diagnostic scenarios, so things are progressing.
  20. Thanks telriv. I'll give the cables another look tomorrow. They look pretty legit, but I'll make sure they're OK and if not, I'll swap them out. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it. Rich
  21. Thanks guys. I'm trying to do things right. That's why I had the starter rebuilt at a reputable local shop. He tested it before I paid for the rebuild today, and it seemed to be running great. The connections at the starter were thoroughly cleaned during installation, and the battery connections are clean, the battery is almost new. I was definitely expecting a more robust crank, but it's slow and as I stated, the cables get hot. It's hard to imagine that the starter is defective, after a rebuild and a bench test that shows it in perfect working order, right? Is there any solenoid or relay between the battery and the starter, like on a Ford? If so, perhaps this unit is defective, or connections at that unit might need cleaning? Tom, thanks for your comments. I can't see the cam block in the distributor to see when it opens the points, and I sure can't see the points contact surface to get a feeler gauge on it to check the gap. I will check the spark at the coil and report back. Thanks again for the help. Any of you guys located in Tampa? Rich
  22. Thanks Jim, I do have power to the coil with the key on. I will need to wait until my wife gets home to test the coil wire for spark. The new starter cranks slowly, and both the negative and positive battery terminals get hot. Any ideas about that condition? Thanks again Jim, Rich
  23. Hello guys, well, I had my starter rebuilt and got ready to attempt a start, but no luck. The fresh starter seems to crank kinda slow. There doesn't appear to be spark. I changed the plugs and wires. Coil was just recently changed by the previous owner who could not get the car started. He also changed points, condenser, rotor, and cap. All ignition parts are new. I could not figure out how to set the points...with the weights on top of the distributor, there isn't any way to see the points and gap them. There is the set screw for the points, but I am not familiar with how to use it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Rich in Tampa
  24. Hello Buick Riviera folks. My car is coming along in it's first week, I'm probably gonna try to start it tomorrow after changing the oil and giving it a tune-up. Cylinders are lubed and fingers are crossed. Just waiting for the starter to come back from the re-builder. Console question: In my car, there was an aftermarket cassette player installed in the console, in the large opening below the AC vent. The installer used some plywood to fill the space. I yanked all that crap out, so now I'm wondering what was in there originally...a storage box? Or just a blank plate covered with the black leatherette contact paper? No metal plate that would fill the space was included with the car. Also, I see some aftermarket wood veneer kits for the console and doors....any experience with these kits? I'm not seeing a color that I like, but I do likethe idea of veneering the console in place of the peeling black leatherette contact paper. I was thinking that some regular countertop laminate (or "vertical grade" material, which is thinner) might work very well to dress up the console/doors, and given the very convincing laminates that are available nowadays, they would easily be as convincing and as durable as the original material. Thanks for any positive and useful replies, and more questions to come! Rich
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