1936 BUICK ROADMASTER electric fuel pump install ideas please

[48517]

Having lots of ?vapor lock? problems during hot and high altitude touring.

[Matt Harwood]

An electric fuel pump can certainly help and is a good idea for both "vapor lock" and priming after a period of inactivity.

 

For installation tips, there are a lot. Put it as close to the gas tank as possible. Use metal line, not rubber hoses and clamps. Don't connect it directly to the ignition for power, find a clean source of 6V power and put it on a relay and a manual toggle so it doesn't steal power from your ignition and shuts off when you turn off the key. Good idea to install a warning light so you don't forget it's on. If you use a Carter rotary vane pump you'll need a bypass and a check valve, if you use an Airtex you can just plumb it straight through. Make sure you get the low pressure version of either pump that works on 6 volts.

That's the short version. Use common sense when installing it, do a better job than you think you should so you don't have to do it again and so future owners don't hate you. All my old cars have electric pumps, they all run on a relay, and they all work properly. Done well, an electric pump will improve reliability. Done poorly, it will be a source of untraceable gremlins that could make things worse.

[edinmass]

I agree with Matt, but would add......don’t use modern wire and connectors. Use period correct stuff, and paint it all the chassis color when done to hide it. 99 percent of electric pumps are installed poorly, and when I see pumps done half assed, I assume the rest of the car was also done that way. Take you time, they don’t jump in. Figure a entire days work. 

[Gary W]

On 8/10/2020 at 2:59 PM, 48517 said:

Having lots of ?vapor lock? problems during hot and high altitude touring.

 

 

I just installed an electric fuel pump for priming the carburetor when my '37 sits over six days.  

 

I took quite a few photos of the installation, but it starts with this post....  just touch the arrow on the upper right side of the box

 

 

[Graham Man]

You might want to add an impact safety switch, they should work with a 6 volt system, it is just a switch.  They are popular for race cars, this is just one manufacturer.  If you just use the pump to prime the carburetor you should be fine without a safety shut off.  I have been lucky we can still buy alcohol free fuel in MN so my cars can sit for months and still fire right up.

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=87

[Robert G. Smits]

Be sure to install a filter between the tank and the electric pump.  Electrics don't tolerate small paticulate matter.  In my experience the biggest plus is being able to prime your carb after periods of storage.  I  will also switch the pump on for a minute or so after a lunch stop on a hot day in Texas.  I doubt that I use the pump more that 5-10 minutes on a five day car tour but it certainly gives you "peace of mind", especially with the wife in the car on a 100 degree day.

[PFitz]

I've installed these Airtex 6 volt in a few of my customer's cars. This model is low pressure (2-4 psi) for carburetors, so it won't jam the float needle, or damage a Viton tipped needle. 

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-e8902

 

Kit comes with all the hoses, clamps, and mounting bracket needed. Very easy to install.

 

Paul

[PeteO]

I too have added an electric fuel pump in my 1937 Buick. It is mounted on a metal plate that covers the crank case hole where the original pump mounted. This is a driver class car so I've taken some liberties.

 

I don't recall the circumstance that made my not-so-bright mechanic mount the electric pump high on the engine.  Positioning the pump high allowed fuel to drain back to the gas tank and leave the fuel lines empty, forcing the pump to pump air before pumping fuel. Mounting it low on the engine like the original allows gravity to keep the pump filled with gas and ready to operate at any time.

[JACK M]

Most pumps are made to push not pull. So near the tank.