Waking up a 1910 Cadillac - Edit Year not 1915

[kuhner]

A friend of my wife asked if I would start her fathers (15 ) 10 Cadillac for her and her mother.

The car has been restored and it is a nice car. Before her father past 5 years ago he drained the gas, and coolant. The AACA library sent me a copy of the owners manual very helpful.

Im a pretty decent mechanic but never worked on anything older than my 17 model T. Whole different animal.  I don’t want to hurt the car trying to help out, So I have some questions.

The car has a dual ignition so I guess I start on battery and switch to magneto.

I see it has priming cups, do I prime all of them?

The Oiler has a site glass on the dash, does the oil pump need primed somehow after setting for so long? How do I know it’s working when I’m trying to start?
What coolant should I use ?

My research says it has a leather cone clutch, should I do something with the lining ?

 

I think that’s it.  Thanks in advance for the help.

greg

Edited June 12, 2020 by kuhner
Mistake in year (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Leave the clutch alone for now...........

 

You can run the old style green coolant or run water with cutting oil or a water anti rust treatment. Cutting oil is cheap, and washes off with a hose.......no stains or mess....a big plus. Just don't let it freeze.

 

Yes, prime all the cups.

 

First, pull all the plugs, and crank it over with the starter for 30 seconds at a time waiting one minute in-between. Do it five or six times. Be sure the battery is fully charged. Check the oil.....the car can be tricky and it can be hard to figure out how much is in the case. Check it before and after turning it over. Oil should appear in the glass fairly quickly on start up. No need to prime it. Its been a while since I started a 15.......probably 30 years. Post a picture. When in doubt, shut it down. Be careful for fires...these cars burn easy with the Johnson carb. Keep more than one extinguisher handy.  If the float sinks, it will pour gas out......be ready to bleed off the pressure in the tank in that event. 

 

 

If they send the car to a shop it would be very expensive to go through it..........often times helping out on a car like this can dig you into a hole. Take your time and be careful. 

 

 

If you can, use non E10 fuel or racing gas........if your not driving it, just making it run to sell, its worth the effort to get good fuel. 

[Brass is Best]

Greg,

 

As far as starting the owners manual probably has a step by step explanation.

 

The car has a dual ignition so I guess I start on battery and switch to magneto? Yes start on Batt and Switch to Mag once car is running.

 

I see it has priming cups, do I prime all of them? You probably do not need to prime in warm weather. This was usually used in cold weather.

 

The Oiler has a site glass on the dash, does the oil pump need primed somehow after setting for so long? How do I know it’s working when I’m trying to start? You should crank over the car a few times ignition off and the oiler will work and put some oil in the cylinders. You can also remove the spark plugs and put some oil in each cylinder if you are worried the motor is "dry". Once the car starts you should see the oil dripping in the sight. The owners book will tell you the proper rate. Usually something like 30 drops per minute? Check the manual. 

 

What coolant should I use ? Straight distilled water is a good option until you know if you have any leaks. 

 

My research says it has a leather cone clutch, should I do something with the lining ? Follow Ed's advice.

 

Also look at the water pump grease and make sure it is full and lubed properly. 

 

I have not worked on a 15 Cadillac. But have worked on 08, 09, 11, 12, 13s. As well as other early cars.

Edited June 11, 2020 by Brass is Best (see edit history)

[edinmass]

Leave the clutch alone...........make it run. Putting neats foot oil on the clutch is not easy, and very easy to over do it. One step at a time. If selling the car, make it run. Anything after that is just wasting time and money. Any brass car guy can deal with the clutch on his own. Don't  make it harder than its necessary. Its a cool car, and depending on body style, is not easy to sell. It may be shockingly low in value from what the family expects to get. Market is finicky, and strange colors and other issues will discount the value even more. Post a photo please.

[nickelroadster]

That car also has a pressurized fuel system unless someone has put an electric fuel pump on it.  It has an ignition system that the points work a little different than what you are used to.  The points are open most of the time and only close for a brief moment before they open for firing rather than than staying closed most of the time.  The idea was to save electricity in the pitiful batteries of the era.  1915 was the last year Delco used this system.  Make sure you get a manual if you don't have one

[kuhner]

Thanks for the answers.

I really didn’t want to harm a good car. I’m more confident now.

I don’t have any photos yet, when I checked it out it was winter and had some blankets and covers on it. I’ll be sure to post a bunch.

The body is the Demi tonneau, finished in white, with white leather.  I don’t know if the wife is ready to sell it she is more interested in just getting it out of the garage for a drive. 
 

[John_Mereness]

18 hours ago, Brass is Best said:

Straight distilled water is a good option until you know if you have any leaks. 

I have never let water alone sit in a a system for more than a day or two - NAPA sells water pump lubricant (the old fashioned white milky stuff) and I am quick to add it in like the second day - it is too easy to let this stuff go and can be hard on water pumps to run straight water,  Am I overreacting  ?  Probably yes, but that was the way I was taught to do it by people who tour cars.   Also, in Auburn circles there are a lot of repaired blocks by people who ran water or drained and then did not realize the engine has pockets that do not drain off easily matched to freezing  is possible most everywhere in the United States (even Southern California) - aka as soon as you can get green antifreeze in it I would.   If going right back into storage then ask the question again as to mothballing. 

 

A  battery will probably be needed - an Optima has a pretty good shelf life, but given size and how it is installed in a  box - in this case I might be tempted to just get whatever it was running on the last time (aka do not reinvent a wheel).

 

The hardest part of this will be probably fuel delivery issues.

 

Also, if there is a hand crank in the tool box, try to turn it over by hand first - no ignition on - you are just making sure nothing is stuck prior to hitting the starter button. 

[kuhner]

Well shoot, I made a mistake. I had 1915 on my mind. It really is a 1910, .

Sorry for confusion but I think all comments are still applicable. 
1910 Cadillac Demi Tonneau. 
 

[John_Mereness]

You need to ask the antifreeze question again via it being a 1910 - they have copper jug on the heads and antifreeze may not be the path given the design (aka a very different beast than a 1915 V-8) - you need to ask.  

 

Perhaps, go back and edit your topic and then add in a note below mine asking for advice  (add something like - "actually a 1910 not 1915" or .... something like that)

[PFindlay]

I ran antifreeze in my '11 Cadillac for many years.  Don't see a problem there.

 

Regarding the oil sight gauge ...  It can take quite a while for oil to make its way, one drip at a time, to the sight gauge.  Maybe 15 minutes of driving or more.  But those drips are just replenishing the oil lost from the crankcase due to leakage and oil burning so it's not crucial.  You need to make sure there's enough oil in the crankcase before you start it, and that's not much.  If you remove the inspection covers off the left side of the crankcase you'll see the trough below each rod.  That's where the dipper passes to splash the oil as needed.  All you need is oil filling these troughs, not the whole crankcase.  Too much oil and it will just sling it all over the place via the front and rear seals (or lack thereof).

 

Once you get it running, study the pump on top of the oil tank (on the left side of the engine) very carefully.  You should be able to see a slight vertical movement of the plunger.  That's how you know it's working.  Once you get drips at the sight gauge you'll know how much it's working and it can be adjusted to vary the rate.  But the correct rate will depend on how much oil your car is leaking and burning.  It takes a while to figure that out, by keeping an eye on the level in the crankcase.    You may not drive it enough to determine that.

 

It's a good idea to keep the cone clutch disengaged when the car is not in use.  You can use a piece of wood to lock the pedal down while it's parked.

 

I suggest you join the Early Cadillac Group (free) to connect with other 1910 Cadillac owners.  Lots of help there.  http://EarlyCadillac.org

 

Peter

Edited June 13, 2020 by PFindlay (see edit history)

[Mark Shaw]

1 hour ago, PFindlay said:

It's a good idea to keep the cone clutch disengaged when the car is not in use.  You can use a piece of would to lock the pedal down while it's parked.

It's more than a good idea if you plan to park it for more than a couple of months.  The leather tends to stick to the flywheel over time.  

[kuhner]

Took about 4 hours but we got it running. Took carb off and cleaned it, checked all fluids and ran great but only on battery.  Would not run at all on magneto, don’t know where to start on the mag. Any help would be great, don’t know if it is switch or mag itself.

I drove it and can tell you I see now the appeal of a bigger brass car, smooth as silk, power and decent brakes. I’m ready to trade my model Ts.

As promised a couple photos.

 

 

 

[kuhner]

[C Carl]

Certainly looks like a very well tended car. Witness the care the late gentleman took in laying it up for an indeterminate repose. Thank you for the pictures. Have you been able to take the girls out for a ride yet ? How did the clutch behave ? Congratulations ! Well done !    -   Carl 

[edinmass]

Very nice car, and it looks great. Kudos for getting it running. Having owned a 1914, which is a larger engine, I would add that a Cadillac four is NOT big brass. I have a very nice early T, and enjoy it as much as I did my Cadillac. Just don't jump in a Pierce, Peerless, Packard, or something similar from the era.......now that is big brass. Cadillac pre 1915 was not a large luxery car.....it was the higher end of the middle of the road. 

[kuhner]

Haven’t taken all the girls a ride yet, probably over the weekend.  
The clutch was great, takes a bit getting the feel but no problem.