1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Professor]

When I first got the car, I removed the block drain cock and all of the freeze plugs on the side of the block.  I took my 4000 psi pressure washer wand with a 40 degree tip on it and put it inside the block drain cock and let the debris come out the freeze plug openings.  Then I want to the freeze plug openings, one at a time, and put the pressure washer wand into each and let the debri come out of the other openings.  You would not believe the amount of garbage that came out.  It was like a brown mud (no doubt Ferris oxide in content).  I repeated this until everything came out clear.

 

What I want to do now is circulate the citric acid in the smaller areas to remove the oil, rust, and calcium deposits.  I will take a picture of the water I drain out after I run with citric acid during a drive.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Excellent. Drive on!

Pierre

[Grimy]

Now is the time for my patented rant about the benefits of installing a cheap nylon stocking (I use the calf-highs that women wear with slacks) in the top tank of the radiator to catch all the dislodged crud that will otherwise be clogging your radiator.  Drain off about a gallon of coolant, remove upper radiator hose.  use a blunt handle (screwdriver or ratchet handle, whatever fits best) to poke the TOE of the stocking fully into the top tank.  Then wrap the open end (selvage) around the outside of the upper radiator neck, reinstall upper hose, reinstall coolant.  As @EmTee found out, if you have a smaller upper (radiator) neck, fold the too-large diameter fabric back on itself to keep it from bunching up irregularly and causing a leak.  Trim off the excess above the upper end of the hose because the stocking will wick.  The stocking will catch fine particles and "sludge" that a Gano filter cannot.

 

At about 200 or so miles, drain a gallon of coolant, remove stocking, examine trapped contents, wash out under a hose, and reinstall.  Based on the volume of crud found, adjust the next interval (so perhaps 200 miles, then 500, then 1,000 miles).

 

After you finish the citric acid flush, use a NEW stocking.  If you have not used a radiator cleaner, that stocking will hold up for 5 years or so in water and EG coolant.

[Professor]

And for this morning, filed under the “Work smarter not harder” category:

 

 

[Piaras]

That’s cheating! Using a skyhook takes all the fun of dropping and dinging, chipping paint, crushed fingers!

Pierre

[Professor]

You forgot the irritated back and forth banter as you tell your wife she is doing it all wrong, or, she tells you that you are doing it all wrong, or both.

For the record, when my wife and I took the hood off and experienced all of the above, she asked me “why don’t you use the winch you use to take the hardtop on and off your Jeep.

 

Doh!

 

Well, I gave her credit for the idea… and it was soooooooo much easier.  LOL.

 

Joe

 

7 hours ago, Piaras said:

That’s cheating! Using a skyhook takes all the fun of dropping and dinging, chipping paint, crushed fingers!

Pierre

 

[Professor]

25 May Update:

 

I changed the oil and oil filter, topped off the transmission, and cleaned out the cooling system.  I drained the dawn-water from both the radiator drain valve and I removed the engine block drain valve and let the water drain.  Leaving the heater valve open,  I rinsed the system until the water from the engine block ran clear, and then I closed the radiator drain valve and installed the engine drain valve.  I added one gallon of fresh water, and one gallon of water with one pound of citric acid in it.  I then topped off the system and idled it for 15 minutes, drove it for 30 minutes, and then drained the radiator and block.  The water that came out was clear with a “brassy” tinge to it.  It almost looked like yellow antifreeze.   

 

I rinsed the radiator and block until the water ran clear again, and then filled the system with a 50% antifreeze and water mixture.

 

In the images below, you can see what the system looked like before and after.  The neck of the radiator is what the inside of the top tank looked like before the citric acid treatment.  The inside of the tank below the neck shows how much “gunk” for lack of a better term, was removed by the citric acid.

 

I am happy with today’s effort.  Tomorrow will include a change of plugs and hot compression test, head re-torque, and a hot valve adjustment.  I will update the thread tomorrow.

 

 

[Professor]

Talk about sage advice…

 

Here are the hot compression numbers from today, all spark plugs out:

 

1: 105

2: 108

3: 100

4: 101

5: 103

6: 105

7: 106

8: 101

 

Let’s just say that if I were left to my own devices, without this forum, I 100% would have pulled the engine and rebuilt the bottom end.  Imagine the time I and money I would have spent had I not had this forum as a resource.

 

On another note, I replaced the spark plugs today and ordered an NOS tuneup kit ($74.00, free shipping).  I re-torqued the head, and all of the head nuts were slightly loose… maybe 10-15 degrees of rotation maximum.  I will check again in a few hundred miles.

 

Based on the above compression numbers and the sound of the engine, I am not going to touch the valve adjustment yet.  I set all of the valves .002 higher cold, and I am VERY happy with the results right now.  I do not want to “fix” what isn’t broken.

 

At this point, I could not be happier with how things have turned out.  The engine is crisp on startup and rock solid smooth on and off idle.  

 

I did not know how bad this engine ran until I discovered how good it could run.

 

I will upload a video of the engine to YouTube and post a link today if I have the time.

 

Thanks again everyone.

 

Joe

 

 

On 5/21/2022 at 3:34 PM, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

      Put it back together and be done with it....  You may also want to consider how accurate  your compression gauge is.  My compression  gauge leaks,  (sometimes) at the valve.  SO, I just watch as the engine cranks, and see how high it goes.  Nice to see your making progress...

 

ERIC

 

On 5/19/2022 at 11:54 AM, LARRYCAROL said:

Putting money issues aside, the question is do you want to drive this summer? I would install manifolds and head . Drive over the summer and then recheck compression. If car was running good and not smoking badly, just enjoy the ride. Replacing rings can be done next winter if needed.

 

On 5/18/2022 at 8:04 PM, Piaras said:

I would reassemble the engine and run it. Rings will not seal in a static state. Rings seal to the cylinder bore AND the ring lands of the piston. Right now the rings are not loaded and are naturally not sealing to the lands. On top of that, the ring gap likely 0.020” or more will allow passage of the fluid from the top of the piston down  through each ring gap to the pan.

Pierre

 

On 5/18/2022 at 7:53 PM, VW4X4 said:

I'm sure a lot of people will tell you to "DO IT RIGHT" and pull the pistons....BUT I can tell you that's a huge amateur mistake.  Its really easy for them to spend YOUR money.  You'll end up with thousands more into a complete rebuild, with the engine out, and the entire front end off the car, even a good possibility of never going back together under your ownership.   You found the low compression problem, you fixed it.   At the end of the day tomorrow, If it was my car,  I would have be driving it....

 

BTW, piston rings don't seal very good like that.  They are designed to be forced out to the cylinder wall under pressure.

 

ERIC

 

ERIC

 

[Grimy]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

On another note, I replaced the spark plugs today and ordered an NOS tuneup kit ($74.00, free shipping).  I re-torqued the head, and all of the head nuts were slightly loose… maybe 10-15 degrees of rotation maximum.  I will check again in a few hundred miles.

Joe, is your new head gasket a NOS copper-asbestos sandwich or a reproduction with some form of plastic substituting for the asbestos?  If the latter, I suggest you keep re-torquing, perhaps as many for four or five times, because in my experience that material takes a long time over perhaps 400-500 miles to achieve its final "set."  Asbestos-centered gaskets seem to need only one or occasionally two re-torques.

[Professor]

@Grimy,

 

The head-gasket is a modern reproduction with copper sides sandwiching an inner material that must be plastic although it looks like asbestos in consistency.  I am relatively certain that asbestos cannot be used in modern products so I assume it is plastic.  Regardless, thanks for your advice. I will check the head torque again in 200 or so miles, and keep re-torquing it until it stays at 65 ft-lbs.

 

Joe

 

55 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Joe, is your new head gasket a NOS copper-asbestos sandwich or a reproduction with some form of plastic substituting for the asbestos?  If the latter, I suggest you keep re-torquing, perhaps as many for four or five times, because in my experience that material takes a long time over perhaps 400-500 miles to achieve its final "set."  Asbestos-centered gaskets seem to need only one or occasionally two re-torques.

 

[Professor]

Hi Eric,

 

Would it be possible for you to upload a picture of the fittings if you have one?  I cannot find any on Google. My google-fu is weak tonight.  🙂 

 

Joe

 

On 5/18/2022 at 11:32 AM, VW4X4 said:

Professor,   The actual brass fittings used on that line are significantly more exotic looking. I have never seen them for sale.  I have seen NOS complete lines for sale, but the rubber on those was as hard as the one I was trying to replace.  I've replace my oil line with new fitting out of necessity.  This was 20 years ago.  If your going to replace your rubber line these details matter.   Best of luck... 

 

On another note,  back when this car was built, it was clear that manufactures were keeping rubber products to a minimum, knowing they don't last very long.  Sixties it was plastic clips, and wire ties.  In the eighties this was true about glues.   Its amazing how technology evolves....  What's next?

 

 

ERIC

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Hi Eric,

 

Would it be possible for you to upload a picture of the fittings if you have one?  I cannot find any on Google. My google-fu is weak tonight.  🙂 

 

Joe

 

 

   Here you go...  First picture is an original oil line... I've seen them referred to as grease lines.

The second picture is what I ended up with.... Those plastic pieces on my line are a good way to loose points at the car show.  Not that I really care.  It has to function properly first...  As I noted, anything you buy today that is very old has dry wrought, and is likely to fail. 

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Thanks so much Eric!

 

By the way, I like the one you made a great deal.  How did you connect the fittings to the hose?  I see the (light green?) bands in your picture, but I have never seen this type of connection.  I like it.

 

Joe

Edited May 27, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[Professor]

Hi All,

 

Here is a link to the YouTube video of my engine running after the top-end rebuild.  Many if not all of you are more of an expert than I am on flatheads... please, if you hear something odd or see something unusual (besides the idiotic fuel line and filter I put in), let me know.  To me, the engine sounds great.

 

Chrysler running after top-end rebuild.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

The fittings are fairly common that Eric shows in his photos. They are the type that doesn’t require clamps. A hydraulic shop can make up that hose with crimped fittings but not cheap. Since this is not a “points show” car I would go the same route likely. 
My car would not show well either, in fact there is no original oil, grease, or air in the tires. Even the tires are not original! LOL

Pierre

[Professor]

All,

 

Does anyone know the original diameter and type for the fuel line that ran from the fuel pump to the carburetor?  Fitting sizes?  I have a flare kit, but I need to buy the metal line and fittings.  Also, I am scouring the maintenance, parts, and owner's manuals for anything that shows me the shape of the fuel line as it curves from the fuel pump to the carburetor.  Thanks so much in advance!

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Just watched the video. Angila asked if it was for sale! I said no.

 

It sounds like any solid lifter engine to my ears. No smoke out the front or the back so you are doing it right! I too have to replace the fuel line!

Pierre

[Piaras]

I doubt you will find a drawing of the fuel line. At the dealership we would simply refer to the original or make best fit. The books would show fuel lines at times but no details.

The carburetor inlet fitting will likely set the tubing size, as they have to fit together. Would not surprise me that it is either 1/4” or 5/16”. Will not be 3/8” as the additional fuel flow is not required by these engines.

Pierre

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Hi All,

 

Here is a link to the YouTube video of my engine running after the top-end rebuild.  Many if not all of you are more of an expert than I am on flatheads... please, if you hear something odd or see something unusual (besides the idiotic fuel line and filter I put in), let me know.  To me, the engine sounds great.

 

Chrysler running after top-end rebuild.

 

Joe

A nice smooth idle like that is great, but I'm always a little concerned that to low of idle and the oil pressure, or any part of the oils system, may be starving.   Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge....   Nice work.....

ERIC

 

[Grimy]

My 1934 Pierce came to me with a braided stainless steel flex hose, natural finish, at the fuel pump.  My Evil Twin (that's a long story), occasionally on the forum as @Bob Jacobsen, judged it and properly nicked me an authenticity point for that issue.  A couple of months later, he was visiting and I pointed out to him the offending fuel line that was now satin black and appearing like the original style, no-longer-available, lacquered flex line.  I told him he'd never be able to deduct for that again, because I had substituted an original crusty old NORS line of which many still can be found at swap meets, decades after their expiration dates.  Bob exclaimed, "But is it safe?!!"  I replied, "Who cares if it's safe, I just don't want to lose a point again."

 

Before his looming heart attack could occur, I explained how I had removed the braided SS line, masked off the fittings, and applied about six heavy coats of Rustoleum rattle-can satin black, and while the last coat was still tacky, patted the tacky paint with a red shop towel to simulate the original lacquered-fabric finish.  He still hasn't forgiven me....

[Professor]

Pierre,

 

I can make you one and send it to you.  It look like I will be forced to purchase way more fuel line than I need.  I have a tubing bender and can make it the length and shape you tell me if you want.

 

Joe

 

16 minutes ago, Piaras said:

I doubt you will find a drawing of the fuel line. At the dealership we would simply refer to the original or make best fit. The books would show fuel lines at times but no details.

The carburetor inlet fitting will likely set the tubing size, as they have to fit together. Would not surprise me that it is either 1/4” or 5/16”. Will not be 3/8” as the additional fuel flow is not required by these engines.

Pierre

 

[Professor]

Thanks Eric,

 

I am keeping an eye on the oil pressure and you are spot on.  oil pressure is running a bit low because I chose a 10w-30 full synthetic to clean the engine out.  After a few hundred miles, I will switch back to the straight weight synthetic (probably 40W).  The engine is running around 30psi at 30 mph and around 40psi at 70mph.  It will idle as low as 5psi but if I blip the throttle, I can bring the pressure back up quickly.  

 

Cold starts run about 80psi for a few minutes and then drop as the fast-idle decreases.

 

Joe

 

8 minutes ago, VW4X4 said:

A nice smooth idle like that is great, but I'm always a little concerned that to low of idle and the oil pressure, or any part of the oils system, may be starving.   Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge....   Nice work.....

ERIC

 

 

[Piaras]

40 minutes ago, Professor said:

Pierre,

 

I can make you one and send it to you.  It look like I will be forced to purchase way more fuel line than I need.  I have a tubing bender and can make it the length and shape you tell me if you want.

 

Joe

 

 

Not required as I have all the tools needed from my garage years. Funny how many 10s of thousands dollars in tools one picks up over those years. Today I pity starting mechanics/technicians as they are looking at twice what I spent! I stopped counting after $20K.

Pierre

[Piaras]

What was the oil pressure before the spring change?

Pierre

[Piaras]

I buy pre made lines that are longer than I need and cut one or both ends depending on the desired fittings. 
Pierre

[Bloo]

This seems to be going back and forth between an oil hose and a fuel line.

 

I would not use fuel hose for oil. I know it is all petroleum, but it is not the same. Run of the mill fuel hose might not hold up well. It used to be common to see automatic transmission cooler lines on 60s-70s Chrysler products patched with fuel hose, because 5/16" fuel hose was on the shelf in every shop. The hose would get soft, swell, and eventually fail. It was simply the wrong hose to use with oil or ATF. Modern 30R9 fuel injection hose is rated for a bunch of different fuels, so that might be OK I don't know. I would rather have something made for oil, like hydraulic hose.

 

I assume that hose on the firewall feeds an oil pressure gauge. In that case, I would just have a hydraulic shop make one, assuming the fittings on the steel lines are something semi-normal. On the other hand if they are "Threaded Sleeve" fittings, and they sure could be in 1936, no one will have that and the original hose barbs will have to be salvaged, probably by cutting the crimped part off and dressing it, leaving a sleeveless hose barb. Then, have a hydraulic shop crimp bands around new hydraulic hose. Fuel injection clamps could work just fine here in the absence of a shop with the ability to crimp, but would stick out more visually. 

 

Now about fuel lines, I hope someone can post pictures of some originals. Another thing that would be nice to know is what type of fittings Chrysler used. In 1936 they could have been Double Flare or Threaded Sleeve. Double flare fittings are available in any auto parts store. Threaded Sleeve is weird and obsolete. All the threaded sleeve fittings are readily available online still, except the right angle one. That is a swap-meet-only item if you happen to need one. The tubing size for almost all cars is 5/16", and the tubing is "Bundyflex" type steel. NAPA should have it in all sorts of lengths as brake line replacement. A length will come pre-flared with 2 flare nuts on it, one that has the right look and one that does not because it it way too long. If your fittings are double flare, you can use one of the premade flares and one of the nuts. Otherwise, no but it is still the right kind of line. They probably won't have it out front as they seem to be pushing coated brake lines these days, but may have some behind the counter.

 

There is probably a rubber hose from the frame to the fuel pump to absorb engine motion. In the absence of any sort of original to work from, or any information about what the original is like, I would get appropriate barbs to connect to your fuel pump and your line and use 30R9 hose and fuel injection clamps. I painted my clamps black. It is way less noticeable down there, especially if you put the screw part down underneath.

 

Edited May 29, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Professor]

Thanks @Bloo,  I was definitely talking only about the fuel line from the frame to the pump and pump to the carburetor.  I too would love to see an original picture.  The maintenance manual is worthless for many of the detailed images I would like to see.

 

On the up side, I figured out today that my clutch and brake pedal pads were rotated 90 degrees from the correct orientation.  I was flipping through the owner’s manual and discovered the images of the pedals.  My OCD nature required me to go out and fix them immediately.  🙂. 

[Grimy]

7 minutes ago, Professor said:

On the up side, I figured out today that my clutch and brake pedal pads were rotated 90 degrees from the correct orientation.  I was flipping through the owner’s manual and discovered the images of the pedals.  My OCD nature required me to go out and fix them immediately.

Let practicality be your guide except for judging:  whatever works better for your feet for driving.

[Bloo]

On the 36 Pontiac, I had a similar situation with the fuel lines, in that I had no Idea what they should look like. They were hacked up beyond belief and mostly hose. There was just enough cut up original line and one fitting to clue me in that the fittings were threaded sleeve. There was also no swelled end on the metal line on the frame to hold a hose (also consistent with threaded sleeve. I looked at every engine compartment picture online, blew them up til I was looking at blurry pixels, and although it helped it wasn't enough. Almost all cars have had their lines all hacked up for filters, electric fuel pumps, or whatever the flavor of the day was when the hacksaws came out.

 

I thought I would just run the new line far away from the engine, avoiding heat. After staring at the engine a bit and considering all the heat sources, it turned out that idea was completely impractical on my car. This is what I came up with:

 

 

This is Bundyflex and threaded sleeve fittings between the carb and pump, and 30R9 on a modern barb and FI clamp connecting the pump to the frame. Having the line running next to the heat riser box like that would at first glance be a really bad idea due to radiant heat. On a second look, everything else is worse. If I were to run the line forward, it would be running parallel to the exhaust. Additionally, it would be closer to the exhaust ports, which are the hottest parts of the exhaust. There is also hot air blowing through the radiator, and running the line forward gets closer to that. Of course heat rises, so getting lower in the engine compartment might be better. The heat riser, being shut off on a hot engine, is now not looking so bad.

 

I made every decision based on the avoidance of radiant heat and that is the design I came up with. I have seen original lines in the years since then, and as it turns out the one I made is indistinguishable from the original part. That is probably not a coincidence. I doubt it will translate directly to Chrysler, because for one thing Pontiac exhaust manifolds usually go up and Chrysler ones usually go down. In the absence of any pictures of originals though, I suggest doing the same thing and making your design to stay away from radiant heat as much as possible.

 

My car would have originally had a special hose from the frame to the fuel pump. These NOS/NORS Pontiac hoses are threaded sleeve. A second sleeve nut would be used at the left (fuel pump) end.

 

 

If your Chrysler had something like this, and the if fuel line on the frame is not mangled, you can probably tell how it attached. If it has a double flare and an inverted flare nut, it's double flare obviously. If the line is straight tubing at the end, and only shows a slight depression about 1/8" from the tip, it was threaded sleeve. If there is a bubble at the end, the hose probably clamped directly to the line.

 

Edited May 28, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

3 hours ago, Bloo said:

On the 36 Pontiac, I had a similar situation with the fuel lines, in that I had no Idea what they should look like. They were hacked up beyond belief and mostly hose. There was just enough cut up original line and one fitting to clue me in that the fittings were threaded sleeve. There was also no swelled end on the metal line on the frame to hold a hose (also consistent with threaded sleeve. I looked at every engine compartment picture online, blew them up til I was looking at blurry pixels, and although it helped it wasn't enough. Almost all cars have had their lines all hacked up for filters, electric fuel pumps, or whatever the flavor of the day was when the hacksaws came out.

 

I thought I would just run the new line far away from the engine, avoiding heat. After staring at the engine a bit and considering all the heat sources, it turned out that idea was completely impractical on my car. This is what I came up with:

 

 

This is Bundyflex and threaded sleeve fittings between the carb and pump, and 30R9 on a modern barb and FI clamp connecting the pump to the frame. Having the line running next to the heat riser box like that would at first glance be a really bad idea due to radiant heat. On a second look, everything else is worse. If I were to run the line forward, it would be running parallel to the exhaust. Additionally, it would be closer to the exhaust ports, which are the hottest parts of the exhaust. There is also hot air blowing through the radiator, and running the line forward gets closer to that. Of course heat rises, so getting lower in the engine compartment might be better. The heat riser, being shut off on a hot engine, is now not looking so bad.

 

I made every decision based on the avoidance of radiant heat and that is the design I came up with. I have seen original lines in the years since then, and as it turns out the one I made is indistinguishable from the original part. That is probably not a coincidence. I doubt it will translate directly to Chrysler, because for one thing Pontiac exhaust manifolds usually go up and Chrysler ones usually go down. In the absence of any pictures of originals though, I suggest doing the same thing and making your design to stay away from radiant heat as much as possible.

 

My car would have originally had a special hose from the frame to the fuel pump. These NOS/NORS Pontiac hoses are threaded sleeve. A second sleeve nut would be used at the left (fuel pump) end.

 

 

If your Chrysler had something like this, and the if fuel line on the frame is not mangled, you can probably tell how it attached. If it has a double flare and an inverted flare nut, it's double flare obviously. If the line is straight tubing at the end, and only shows a slight depression about 1/8" from the tip, it was threaded sleeve. If there is a bubble at the end, the hose probably clamped directly to the line.

 

Why is this car soaking wet....  I would consider this abuse of a poor old car.

 

[VW4X4]

I'm sure I have the original fuel line between the frame and the fuel pump somewhere.  Problem is finding it, and its not necessarily the right one, being I have a six cylinder car.... I can dig it out if you still think it might be the same..

 

ERIC

Edited May 28, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[maok]

5 hours ago, Professor said:

Thanks Eric,

 

I am keeping an eye on the oil pressure and you are spot on.  oil pressure is running a bit low because I chose a 10w-30 full synthetic to clean the engine out.  After a few hundred miles, I will switch back to the straight weight synthetic (probably 40W).  The engine is running around 30psi at 30 mph and around 40psi at 70mph.  It will idle as low as 5psi but if I blip the throttle, I can bring the pressure back up quickly.  

 

Cold starts run about 80psi for a few minutes and then drop as the fast-idle decreases.

 

Joe

 

 

Adjustment the oil pressure relief valve, 5psi may suggest bad oil pump and or excessive wear on the bearings.

 

My c7 idles with 30psi when hot.

[Bloo]

1 hour ago, VW4X4 said:

Why is this car soaking wet....  I would consider this abuse of a poor old car.

 

 

That is a very old picture. As I recall, it was raining when I took it.

[Professor]

I was thinking…. Well, he washes his engine like I do, and then he uses a gasoline blow to dry it like I do.  LOL.

 

4 hours ago, Bloo said:

 

That is a very old picture. As I recall, it was raining when I took it.

 

[Randiego]

Fellas,

 

Having two 36 autos (Pontiac Master 6 Business Coupe and a Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan) I have had the help of a master in the old auto business help me with a vacuum issue.  Granted, I live in the San Diego area and driving my cars in the rain is not an occurance that I want to do, but any who live in rainy country will attest that on the nicest days, one can get caught in  rainy weather.

 

The vacuum system that runs the wipers (unless you have coverted to electric motors) is dependent on what is left over if the engine needs or is not making vacuum, i.e. acceleration as going up a hill will attest to.  So.....the wipers slow and visibility is hampered.  Not a good thing when getting your classic back to the barn and out of the rain.  

 

He came up with a solution that really  was trick and non invasive.  On his 36 Pontiac, he took a 4" X 12" length of PVC pipe and two corresponding PVC caps.  He then drilled holes in the end caps, tapped in 1/4' pipe thread and installed (pipe threaded) brass barbs on both caps.  He then glued the caps on made a strap and installed the assembly up under the dash out of sight.  He then attached the hose from the wiper motor(s) to one end of the "tank" and on the other end, the hose from the engine compartment that originally  went to the wiper motors.  You can alter the tank dimensions to suit your space requirements. 

 

Now when you are driving and get caught in a rainy condition, with the vacuum storage tank, you will NOT have a slowdown of the wipers, a major safety issue. 

 

I avoid driving in wet weather but at times, even in So Cal, we can get caught in the rain.  Now I am prepared for that occasion.  

[Professor]

@Randiego,

 

Thanks for the neat idea.  My Chrysler has a dual action fuel pump.  The bottom portion of the fuel pump is a vacuum generator that drives the wiper motors.  One side of the vacuum pump goes to an intake manifold vacuum fitting and the other side drives the vacuum motors.  If manifold vacuum drops due to engine needs, the vacuum pump will take over and generate vacuum.  It works perfectly!

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Many cars even back in the ‘90s have a vacuum reservoir for HVAC and/or those infamous pop up headlights. Some were a 4-5” ball shape and others were about the size of a 48 ounce juice can.

Pierre

[VW4X4]

4 hours ago, Piaras said:

Many cars even back in the ‘90s have a vacuum reservoir for HVAC and/or those infamous pop up headlights. Some were a 4-5” ball shape and others were about the size of a 48 ounce juice can.

Pierre

Many new cars today have come full circle and now have vacuum pumps.  Obviously, they are  much more efficient, and hard to find in these new cars.  Its amazing to me,  how so much of this new stuff is actually old.   

[Piaras]

Old can be the “new” new.

[Professor]

I am getting ready to do @Grimy’s pantyhose filter modification to see how much garbage I can collect.  I adjusted timing today to TDC at idle (it was previously set to 5 degrees BTDC.  Dwell is around 18 degrees.

 

I filled up today and measured fuel economy in a combined highway city drive of 84 miles and it was 12 MPG on the nose.  This is a 50% improvement over the 8 MPG I measured on my last fill up prior the the number 3 exhaust valve sticking.  It will be interesting to see what the fuel “economy” is in the latest fill up with the timing set properly (or at least I think TDC is correct).

 

One fun side note.  As those of you who are following along already know, I am doing a “rolling” restoration on this car.  I drove the Chrysler to one of the nicest restaurants in a nearby town (Thanks @Steve9 for the birthday gift certificate!) and when my wife and I came out of the restaurant, there were 7 people around the car looking at it.  Looking at my car was clearly making them happy, and of course, it was making me smile.  Then, as one group would leave, another would come up to the car and ask questions and look at it and take pictures.  After roughly 30 minutes of car showing, there was a lull and I asked my wife to jump in the car before someone else walked up.  I drove off with a huge smile.  Driving these cars brings happiness to people who see them, which is why I will restore and drive the wheels off this car.  When things break, I will fix them and drive on.  I know that rolling restorations are not the most efficient way to restore a car, but driving the car while I restore it recharges my battery, helping to ensure that I will not get burned out by the magnitude of the time, money, and labor involved restoring the car.

 

Anyway… off to do the @Grimy mod and then some undercarriage cleaning.  Who doesn’t love lying on their back under a car cleaning decades of garbage off the undercarriage?  LOL.

 

Ciao for Niao.

 

HJoe