1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Bloo]

I would also lean toward factory NOS gears, although after seeing the pictures in this thread, I wonder if the gear that broke was a factory gear.

 

The curved lines show how the crack progressed. The vertical lines here are a bit mysterious to me, although if we go back to the very beginning most cracks start with a stress riser of some kind. It could be a flaw in the metal, or just the shape of a cut.

 

 

But in this picture, look at the area that was at the root of the tooth! Why is it like this? Stress risers everywhere! This is just begging for the failure @Professor had.

 

 

Look at the gear in this picture. It's hard to see, but it looks a lot smoother down in the root to me. I am wondering if the broken gear is an aftermarket gear.

 

 

After having a failure like this, if it were me, I would really want to see a close up pic of any gear I was buying. I would be looking for smoother machining and more gradual fillets in the root of the teeth. I would expect a factory gear to be the best, but I would pick whichever was smoother.

 

This is an odd reason to be changing a second gear. Normally the only reason a second gear would need to be changed is because the engagement teeth, the little pointy ones just above the broken teeth in the picture below, are too beat up to shift anymore. Those little teeth are the ones that take all the punishment.

 

 

[Professor]

I am going to head out and take some closeup images of intact teeth on second gear and intact teeth on some other gears to see if they are different. I will upload some images.  I ordered an NOS Mopar second gear and a NOS cluster gear, neither of which were particularly expensive.  Since the C7 and C8 shared overdrive transmissions, there seem to be a fair number of transmission parts floating around.

 

Joe

[Professor]

Some images:

 

Although you might not be able to see it in these images, it appears that all of the second gear teeth have the same “wrinkled” texture at the base of the gears.  The pictures below that are not of second gear, are of the first/reverse slider gear, and while I suspect you cannot see it, they appear to have a bit of a “wrinkled” texture at their base.  Without seeing the NOS gears I ordered, it is difficult for me to say whether or not this is anomalous or normal.  Regardless, when I rebuild this transmission, I will use NOS gears everywhere I can.  I suspect what I will do is replace the transmission that is headed my way with the “original” transmission once I finish the rebuild and have a reason to pull the transmission.  It will be nice having a spare unit either way, and I get the added benefit of learning to rebuild a transmission.  🙂

 

Joe

[Professor]

By the way, the dirtier gear with the abrasions on the top of the gear is the first/reverse slider gear.  You can see pitting in the face of the gears on the first/reverse slider gear.

Edited November 4, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[Bloo]

Yeah, that won't hurt anything on first and reverse. I'd want to clean that gear up completely of oil and then dunk it in evaporust, just so no tiny bits of abrasive rust can separate and get in the oil in the future. Make sure to oil it up afterwards, and maybe put something more like assembly lube or vaseline on the gears if the transmission is not going back in the car for a while. Oil is good but will run off after a period of sitting.

[Professor]

The replacement transmission came in today and I took the top cover off to take a look inside.  The replacement transmission was built on 10-34-35 and the original transmission was built on 3-17-36, otherwise, the part numbers, patent numbers, and everything else about the transmission appears to be the same from the outside.

 

The drive pinion bearing on the new transmission has about 1/3rd the play that the old drive pinion bearing has, but I can still feel and see the play.  I think I can replace the drive pinion bearing without breaking down the transmission by removing the bearing cover, if so, I will replace it on the new transmission before I install it.

 

On the inside, everything looks great with the exception of 1 chewed up tooth on the first/reverse slider and one chipped-is looking tooth on the same gear. Here is an image:

 

 

I suspect I will live with this issue since it is only two teeth (both can be seen in the above image) until I rebuild the original transmission.

 

Here are a handful of various images in and out of the new transmission.  I cannot tell if the rear seal (driveshaft output) is leaking, but I may go ahead and replace it as well, assuming it comes out easily after pulling the driveshaft yoke.

 

 

[Professor]

Serial numbers.  The C serial number came from my Chrysler overdrive transmission and the D came from the replacement overdrive transmission.  C = Chrysler, D=Dodge?  Both appear to be 1936 unless the “36” in both serial numbers is a coincidence:

 

On Edit:  I wonder what the “S” means on the D serial number?

 

 

Edited November 6, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

33 minutes ago, Professor said:

The replacement transmission came in today and I took the top cover off to take a look inside.  The replacement transmission was built on 10-34-35 and the original transmission was built on 3-17-36, otherwise, the part numbers, patent numbers, and everything else about the transmission appears to be the same from the outside.

 

The drive pinion bearing on the new transmission has about 1/3rd the play that the old drive pinion bearing has, but I can still feel and see the play.  I think I can replace the drive pinion bearing without breaking down the transmission by removing the bearing cover, if so, I will replace it on the new transmission before I install it.

 

On the inside, everything looks great with the exception of 1 chewed up tooth on the first/reverse slider and one chipped-is looking tooth on the same gear. Here is an image:

 

 

I suspect I will live with this issue since it is only two teeth (both can be seen in the above image) until I rebuild the original transmission.

 

Here are a handful of various images in and out of the new transmission.  I cannot tell if the rear seal (driveshaft output) is leaking, but I may go ahead and replace it as well, assuming it comes out easily after pulling the driveshaft yoke.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe,

    First and reverse gear should be non-syncronized.   So, the gears that are a little chewed, are normal, and likely are not going to be a problem.  The only issue I would have is that the small chips of metal from the chewed gears,are likely in the bottom of the transmission.   If I was you I would flush the transmission out before instillation.

      As for that throw out bearing, how in the world did that get dented?  I don't think that's going to work like that.

ERIc

Edited November 6, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Bloo]

That gear is definitely a bit worse than I would like, but the wear of the tips of the teeth catch my eye more than the 2 damaged teeth. The worst it could probably do is "block" and make you have a second try to go into gear at a stoplight. I don't think it's that bad yet. Those tips take punishment every time someone grinds a little getting the car in gear. They never look good. I'm with @VW4X4, I'd flush it out good and put it in, then concentrate on the rebuild of your original. And yes, I'd say that throw out bearing is toast.

[Professor]

What would you recommend I use to flush this out, given that it has an overdrive with clutches.  I have denatured alcohol, and of course, I could use diesel and GL-1 gear oil.

 

I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to throw the whole transmission in.  🙂

 

 

Joe

 

 

34 minutes ago, Bloo said:

That gear is definitely a bit worse than I would like, but the wear of the tips of the teeth catch my eye more than the 2 damaged teeth. The worst it could probably do is "block" and make you have a second try to go into gear at a stoplight. I don't think it's that bad yet. Those tips take punishment every time someone grinds a little getting the car in gear. They never look good. I'm with @VW4X4, I'd flush it out good and put it in, then concentrate on the rebuild of your original. And yes, I'd say that throw out bearing is toast.

 

[Bloo]

I'd probably rinse it out with the diesel or mineral spirits, just to get as much residual junk out of the bottom as possible. This overdrive is really early and I am unfamiliar, but I don't believe they have clutches. In any event overdrives are more particular about the lubricant than transmissions. After you put it in the car, make sure the overdrive section has plenty of the correct lubricant in it before you go driving. If the oil has to "flow over" from the transmission side to fill the overdrive, make sure that has occurred. I don't know what "correct" is for this car, check the manual, but my best guess is "Mineral Oil" aka GL-1, and that synchromesh oil would probably also be OK.

 

[Professor]

You are correct, GL-1 mineral oil is specified.  Napa sells it in five gallon buckets (and one gallon jugs) and I put five gallons on order.  Both the overdrive and transmission share the same oil.  

 

2 hours ago, Bloo said:

I'd probably rinse it out with the diesel or mineral spirits, just to get as much residual junk out of the bottom as possible. This overdrive is really early and I am unfamiliar, but I don't believe they have clutches. In any event overdrives are more particular about the lubricant than transmissions. After you put it in the car, make sure the overdrive section has plenty of the correct lubricant in it before you go driving. If the oil has to "flow over" from the transmission side to fill the overdrive, make sure that has occurred. I don't know what "correct" is for this car, check the manual, but my best guess is "Mineral Oil" aka GL-1, and that synchromesh oil would probably also be OK.

 

 

[VW4X4]

4 hours ago, Bloo said:

I'd probably rinse it out with the diesel or mineral spirits, just to get as much residual junk out of the bottom as possible. This overdrive is really early and I am unfamiliar, but I don't believe they have clutches. In any event overdrives are more particular about the lubricant than transmissions. After you put it in the car, make sure the overdrive section has plenty of the correct lubricant in it before you go driving. If the oil has to "flow over" from the transmission side to fill the overdrive, make sure that has occurred. I don't know what "correct" is for this car, check the manual, but my best guess is "Mineral Oil" aka GL-1, and that synchromesh oil would probably also be OK.

 

I was also going to suggest mineral spirits .  Use a clean catch pan.  That way you can get a good idea what was in there.  I would go as far as to let the mineral spirits remain in there for a day or two, and agitate it as often as possible.  Be warned the mineral spirits gives off a lot of fumes and will evaporate quickly if not contained.  Even the unscented stuff.

 

ERIC

[JV Puleo]

I agree with the comments above about the first/reverse gear but I wonder if it can be easily replaced with a new, OEM gear. I was surprised that the 2nd gear was so available...the fellow who had the OEM gear on Ebay had 19 of them which suggests that the internal parts for these transmissions are not particularly rare. Given that, if the parts are available, I'd be inclined to replace everything that shows wear. It's so much work to get the transmission out and apart that perhaps it's best to do it once and forget about it.

[Professor]

All,

 

Anyone have an idea where I might find an original mechanical brake switch for my Chrysler.  The one I have still works, but I thought I would replace it while I have things apart.  I can find plenty of the hydraulic brake light switches, but had no luck finding the correct mechanical switch that bolts to the side of the frame.

 

Thanks so much.

 

Joe

[Bloo]

I don't really have a good answer here, but will say that you should probably post a picture of it.

 

My guess is it is the kind that get pulled on with a spring so it can deal with minor changes in brake pedal height. I have seen those somewhere but offhand I don't recall where. Probably Restoration Supply (California) or Restoration Specialties (Pennsylvania). If it is instead a switch with a mechanical lever that lays on the linkage somewhere, that was a common universal part that even NAPA had until fairly recent times and might still. If not, look at the Flathead Ford and the Street Rod outlets.

 

If it's something unique to Chrysler, I suspect you will need to rebuild it. I definitely would not change to a hydraulic switch.

[Randiego]

Joe,

I agree with Bloo.  Napa today is a shadow of the mighty auto parts store of yore.  If the idiot on the counter cannot find it on the screen, he (or she) will not take the time (or know how) to pull out the book and refrence it in their vast inventory.  (They still have the parts, but the slower moving items go to a regional warehouse).  I found parts for my 60's Ford trucks through an older counterman who knew where to look.  With the absence of these guys, the new hires just do not know s#*@ from shinola about most of the cars pre 1990's.

 

I have a question;  is your transmission equipped with the synchro hub or are they individual synchros next to the gears?  I am not familiar with the over drive transmission,  Chrysler built a great gearbox but they suffered from drivers who did not take care or understand how to shift properly, hence so many gears with chipping and broken teeth. 

 

My problem with my trans is that I have to get the heaviest grease to assist with shifting without "grinding" the gears.  Double clutching dosen't seem to help much.  I have to let a little time lapse as I am going up the gears between shifts to allow the synchro to hopefully do it's job or there is a bit of grinding.  Down shifting has to be done very carefully.  I try to synchronize the engine rpms and carefully try to shift into second.  From 2nd to first is only when I am stopped.  

 

 Any one know how to remedie this?  My transmission specialist is medically retired and has moved away.  There are few out here locally that know anything about the early Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth transmissions.  I wonder if my rebuilder missed something?

I may have to pull the box and have someone who is familiar with this tranny do an inspection.  I am still hunting for an older guy who knows.  I am NOT a consumate researcher like you, Joe, as I do not have the time.  I rely on others to help with the questions.  

[Bloo]

3 hours ago, Randiego said:

Any one know how to remedie this? 

In my opinion, thick oil is not helping unless the synchros are simply shot and you are hoping tor oil drag to help you time the gears. I would try some synchromesh friendly oil. I am using Redline 75W140NS in the 36 Pontiac, Redline's thickest synchromesh-friendly oil, although it is still pretty thin. I worry about leaks and check the level a lot because it's thin, but it hasn't been a problem. Most other synchromesh oils, including several from Redline, GM, Ford, Pennzoil, and Valvoline are a bit thinner yet usually around 75W80 or so.

3 hours ago, Randiego said:

is your transmission equipped with the synchro hub or are they individual synchros next to the gears?

I don't quite understand what you mean, I am a bit distracted at the moment and must be missing something. I thought this picture from @Professor implied modern construction. Having a closer look, I am not so sure. I don't see the synchro. The teeth on the slider and gear are arranged like modern synchromesh though.

 

[Piaras]

Most auto part stores are lacking people with experience with cars that are more than 10 years old. When I go into my old haunts, I still get asked to come back in and work the counter like I did back nearly 23 years ago. I did not mind the job but it was boring and having to deal with the inconsiderate was a drag. I stopped answering the phone at home as I had had enough over the day.

Pierre

[Professor]

I ordered the first/reverse slider gear on eBay today.  It was $110, but it is an NOS Chrysler gear, which gives me some comfort. I may go ahead and take my original transmission apart and rebuild it rather than put in the spare transmission.  Winter is coming, and it might make sense to do this work now and just put the spare on a shelf.  Decisions decisions.  I miss driving the Chrysler, but perhaps I should not rush anything.

 

With respect to parts counter workers now, the vast majority I run into these days cannot do anything unless you can tell them year, make, model, engine size, etc.  They don’t seem to be gearheads or mechanics… or, if they are, they do not have much experience.  My guess is that this is only going to get worse as the boomer parts guys retire.  My local NAPA is the exception… their counter guys are my age or older and they know how to find parts from a book.  I try to give NAPA as much business as I can.

 

Joe

[Professor]

Brief Update:

 

The restoration shop should be ready to start painting the Chrysler in two weeks, which lit a fire under my hind end to get the transmission back in.  I have been dreading the scraping of the grease from all around the transmission area, but it has to be done so I started it today.  I threw down a tarp on my garage floor and armed with a standard screwdriver, plastic scraper, and metal putty knives of various widths, I began the scraping process.  Oh.  My.  Gosh.  I spent almost four hours scraping and it seems I barely scratched the surface (pun intended).  I dampened a rag with mineral spirits and began wiping all of the surfaces after I got the top layer of grime off.

 

I also filled the transmission with 10W-30, hooked the input shaft up to my variable speed drill, and spun the transmission to loosen up any debris.  I will drain the fluid before the install and fully expect it to be clean.

 

Another day of cleaning the undercarriage around the transmission and I should be able to begin installing the transmission.  I will take lots of pictures once everything is clean in order to document the linkage setup.  I am waiting on a Harbor Freight transmission jack ($135 on Harbor Freight and $249 on Amazon… same exact jack) to be delivered; there is absolutely no way I am lifting the transmission into place manually.  Gravity was my friend removing the transmission, it will not be my friend installing it.

 

I decided to install the replacement Dodge overdrive and then completely rebuild the original Chrysler unit and install it once it is rebuilt.

 

I have a few questions for the experts here:

 

1) What is the easiest way to remove the old throw out bearing from the carrier?  I do not want to start pressing on things and end up damaging the cast iron.

 

2). Is there a trick to getting the clutch fork around the throughout bearing carrier?  It looks pretty straightforward, but there is not much clearance; I had to wiggle it around and take it out at an angle.

 

3) I am replacing the throw out bearing carrier spring, but there are two possible connection points (odd in my opinion).  On my original transmission, the spring was installed on the side opposite the clutch fork.  I cannot tell from the service manual if it matters and I do not want to install it incorrectly just because the previous owner or mechanic did.

 

I am looking forward to getting it back on the road and into the restoration shop for paint and body.  If I paint it the same green it is now, all paint and body work is free… if I change the color, I foot the bill.  I wonder if I need to have it be an original color in order to show it in the AACA as stock.  I assume so.  What a dilemma.  🙂

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Joe

 

 

[keiser31]

20 minutes ago, Professor said:

 

I am looking forward to getting it back on the road and into the restoration shop for paint and body.  If I paint it the same green it is now, all paint and body work is free… if I change the color, I foot the bill.  I wonder if I need to have it be an original color in order to show it in the AACA as stock.  I assume so.  What a dilemma.  🙂

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Joe

 

 

I believe that you can paint it any offered color for that car in that year and be good with the judges.....from what I have read on this forum.

[Piaras]

So do the judges pay the bills, own and drive the car or you? Unless one wants the 100 points, paint it what you want. The next owner can repaint it.

Pierre

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Brief Update:

 

  If I paint it the same green it is now, all paint and body work is free… if I change the color, I foot the bill.  I wonder if I need to have it be an original color in order to show it in the AACA as stock.  I assume so.  What a dilemma.  🙂

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Joe

 

 

Did I miss something?   How do you get it done for free?

I really liked the colors the way you received the car, green with grey interior.  With the red interior, the green is not so much of a match if you ask me.

 

ERIC

[Professor]

22 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Did I miss something?   How do you get it done for free?

I really liked the colors the way you received the car, green with grey interior.  With the red interior, the green is not so much of a match if you ask me.

 

ERIC

 

Eric,

 

The widow of the original owner has offered to pay to have it painted if I leave the color as it was when I received it.  When I installed the original color interior, I was going to paint it the original color, black.  After going to Hershey and looking at the black 1930s cars, I decided against black, so I need to choose another original 1936 Chrysler Airstream color that matches a red interior.

 

Like you feel, green exterior and red interior is a bit of a clash to me.

 

Joe

[Professor]

22 hours ago, Piaras said:

So do the judges pay the bills, own and drive the car or you? Unless one wants the 100 points, paint it what you want. The next owner can repaint it.

Pierre

 

 

You raise a good point, Pierre.  This said, I really do want it to be an original color; a color that matches the red interior.  Assuming I do not paint this car the original black, it will be the first car I have restored that did not go back to the original color.  For whatever reason, I like everything as original as I can make it… the problem is, black is a difficult choice for me.  I am looking at original colors now trying to pick one that matches the interior.

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

10 minutes ago, Professor said:

 

Eric,

 

The widow of the original owner has offered to pay to have it painted if I leave the color as it was when I received it.  When I installed the original color interior, I was going to paint it the original color, black.  After going to Hershey and looking at the black 1930s cars, I decided against black, so I need to choose another original 1936 Chrysler Airstream color that matches a red interior.

 

Like you feel, green exterior and red interior is a bit of a clash to me.

 

Joe

I wonder if she realizes how much it would cost her to paint a car like this properly?  Materials alone will be in excess of $2000.  Then add the labor, with a color change and your looking at way beyond $10,000, IF DONE RIGHT.  What a deal.. I need to fine people to fund my cars....

 

ERIC 

[keiser31]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

 

You raise a good point, Pierre.  This said, I really do want it to be an original color; a color that matches the red interior.  Assuming I do not paint this car the original black, it will be the first car I have restored that did not go back to the original color.  For whatever reason, I like everything as original as I can make it… the problem is, black is a difficult choice for me.  I am looking at original colors now trying to pick one that matches the interior.

 

Joe

Autocolor Library has sample chips....

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1936-Chrysler.html

[Piaras]

I do recall that he wanted the car to be black with red interior like the one he saw many years ago. So you could honor his dream by going black, but black is the most unforgiving color as it shows EVERY wave, dip, bump, etc on the body. I watch Kindig Design and some beautiful cars were red interior and silver or deep blue comes to mind. Since you have spent the money on the interior to get it back to red, the current light green is not a good color. 

Edited January 24, 2023 by Piaras (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

41 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

Autocolor Library has sample chips....

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1936-Chrysler.html

IS there some sort of cross reference chart, that would lead one to the cars original color?

Unfortunately, that color chart is fairly washed out, and guessing at the color, is not a good

thing to do.

 

[Steve9]

Auto Color Library is a great way to go. I picked an original color I liked, had them make me a “spray out card” sample, that’s an easy way to make a decision. The card is like 5”x7” in size. You can hold it up out in the sun, next to the upholstery etc. I was going insane on a color decision until I went down this road. Then I took the card into the paint store and they mixed a small amount, shot and cleared the headlight bucket and knew I had the right choice.

[Professor]

The estimate to restore the body and then paint is way beyond $10k (as you note below).

 

The restoration shop I will use (Carolina Coach Crafters) restored Mr. Taylor's 1936 Stout Scarab which he sold a couple of years ago.  I have seen several examples of their work...

 

Here is a link to the Carolina Coach Crafters webpage:

 

https://www.carolinacoachcrafters.com

 

I am truly excited to take it to the next phase.  I wish I had the time and skill to do the paint and body myself, but I do not want to learn paint and body work on this car... I care too much about it.  LOL.

 

Joe

 

On 1/23/2023 at 6:58 PM, VW4X4 said:

I wonder if she realizes how much it would cost her to paint a car like this properly?  Materials alone will be in excess of $2000.  Then add the labor, with a color change and your looking at way beyond $10,000, IF DONE RIGHT.  What a deal.. I need to fine people to fund my cars....

 

ERIC 

 

[Professor]

Steve,

 

When I called Auto Color Library, they indicated that they do not do spray out cards anymore.  I ended up paying $180-ish for a quart of paint and a spray can of the color I wanted to test.  I am going to spray the NOS headlight bucket I have and see what it looks like.  🙂 

 

By the way, here is a link to an original 1936 chrysler color that Mrs. Taylor likes:

 

https://www.proxibid.com/Collector-Cars/Antique-Cars/1936-Chrysler-Airstream-C7-Series-Convertible-Coupe/lotInformation/39247656

 

This car even has the red interior that my car came with.  What do all y'all think?  <--- southern speak.  LOL.

 

Joe

 

On 1/24/2023 at 10:49 AM, Steve9 said:

Auto Color Library is a great way to go. I picked an original color I liked, had them make me a “spray out card” sample, that’s an easy way to make a decision. The card is like 5”x7” in size. You can hold it up out in the sun, next to the upholstery etc. I was going insane on a color decision until I went down this road. Then I took the card into the paint store and they mixed a small amount, shot and cleared the headlight bucket and knew I had the right choice.

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Steve,

 

When I called Auto Color Library, they indicated that they do not do spray out cards anymore.  I ended up paying $180-ish for a quart of paint and a spray can of the color I wanted to test.  I am going to spray the NOS headlight bucket I have and see what it looks like.  🙂 

 

By the way, here is a link to an original 1936 chrysler color that Mrs. Taylor likes:

 

https://www.proxibid.com/Collector-Cars/Antique-Cars/1936-Chrysler-Airstream-C7-Series-Convertible-Coupe/lotInformation/39247656

 

This car even has the red interior that my car came with.  What do all y'all think?  <--- southern speak.  LOL.

 

Joe

 

 

My opinion:  That red interior is going to be a hard one to match.

 

ERIc

[Piaras]

Hard to tell when under lights verses outside. That is a nice color. Similar to the battleship grey we see on an lots of cars lately.

[36 D2 Coupe]

Mrs. Taylor's choice would indeed go very well with the red interior. It gets you away from the ubiquitous black. However is there a metallic choice in the "36 Chrysler lineup that is close to that grey? I just looked at the DuPont colour chips I have for my '36 Dodge and the majority are metallic. They include  quite a few in the  pale grey/green/gunmetal shades that could work. I think '36 Chrysler has some similar choices that might be acceptable to Mrs. Taylor. 

[Professor]

It might.  The gray airstream I posted a link to has a similar red interior.  The restoration shop thought that a blue would contrast nicely as well.  I would be happy with any of the 1936 Chrysler colors that match the tan top and the red (maroon really) interior.  Mrs. Taylor met with the shop today to talk about her Auburn Boattail Speedster that is being restored and they discussed the Airstream.  The owner of the restoration shop is bringing by some factory 1936 Chrysler paint samples for me to look at and he will shoot a test part of the Airstream before we make a final decision.  The transmission goes back in this weekend, and with any luck, I will have the Airstream back on the road within two weeks.  I am taking it slow and making sure everything is clean before I put it all back together.

 

Joe

 

9 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

My opinion:  That red interior is going to be a hard one to match.

 

ERIc

 

[Randiego]

Joe,

 

I too am having a hard time deciding on a color for my 36 Pontiac.  Not a Chrysler, mind you but still a tough decision.  I am looking at a light pastel color.  I am leaning towards a Lemon Cream with the tan interior but I am open to any light color.  Anthing but a dark color.  

 

It is a really nice thing that Mrs. Taylor is doing for you.  The bid I got for my car, and there is no rust to deal with is well over $15-18 K.   You know body shop men.  We look at a panel or a fender and it looks "OK" to our eye.  To them, they see every  flaw, ripple, previous repair, etc., etc.  So, like you, a simple scuff and shoot (Earl Schibe or Maaco) will not suffice for my car.  And I too do not want to venture into a field that takes years to master.  

 

As good as a job you are doing with this really great car, I am sure that your choice for a color will be tasteful and befitting this classic.  Good luck with your paint choice.

 

 

[Professor]

All,

 

I made some decent progress today.  I finished another cleaning/scraping of the transmission area, repaired a clutch linkage that was worn about 50% through, and got the transmission installed, by hand, no transmission jack.  It turned out that the transmission jack was too wide, and was running into the cross (X) support that runs across the center of the car, with the center of the X located right where the transmission is.  When I raised the transmission jack with the transmission on it, the jack hit the crossmember and did not allow the tail end of the transmission to go high enough to install.  Additionally, the angle that I needed to hold the transmission at was too steep for the transmission jack.  Simply put, there was no way the transmission jack would work on this install.

 

I ended up putting the transmission on a low creeper and rolled it under the car.  Then I laid on the concrete under the center of the car, moved the transmission from the creeper to the top of my leg and stomach, pulled it up to my chest, and then bench pressed it, shaft first, into the bell housing.  Once the transmission shaft was sitting on the lip of the bell housing, and the rear end of the transmission was sitting on the drive shaft tunnel, I ran two standard jacks under the transmission, one at the front and one at the rear.  I raised the transmission so that it was close to correct, removed the rear jack and wiggled the transmission into place, turning the output shaft as necessary to get the splines to line up.  After 20-30 minutes of wiggling, lifting, jostling, and maybe a bad thought or three… the transmission slid into place and I bolted it in.

 

With respect to the clutch linkage, when I pulled it out to clean it, I noticed that it was worn half way through.  I cleaned it, put it on my welding bench, and built up the shaft.  Then I ground down the weld to the correct shaft diameter and test fit it.  It fit perfectly and with any luck, will outlast me.  Chrysler’s design for the clutch cross shaft is not the most robust.  It doesn’t use any bearings, just a steel shaft running through a steel plate with a hole in it. The hole can be greased, but the entire pressure from the pressure plate pushes on the shaft as it rides on the steel plate.  The hole in the plate wears a notch in the shaft and you get what you see in the images attached.  The design lasted 77 years, so I suppose I should not complain too much. 

 

I spent seven hours cleaning and installing today, but I expect things will be downhill from here.  I am hopeful that the clutch fork install goes smoothly since there isn’t much clearance to monkey around with it.  After the clutch fork, I’ll knock out the driveshaft, emergency brake parts, clutch linkages, overdrive cable installation and adjustment, fill the transmission, test everything, and then reinstall the flooring and interior.

 

I am hopeful that everything goes smoothly.  Here are some images from today’s work:

 

[VW4X4]

Nice work Joe,

     Can you please take a few detailed pictures of the complete clutch linkage, pedal to fork, once its installed. Nether of my cars were assembled when I got them.  I had to make the linkage.  I found the coupe is different than the sedan, becasue of the pedals are in a different position.  Add to this the overdrive unit, and no one had any idea where I would fine parts or info.  Maybe seeing your I can fine tune what I did to look better....

 

Also, I found a spring from my clutch fork area, and have no idea where that is suppose to go.   Any ideas?

 

 

THanks

ERIC