Professor Posted November 9, 2021 Author Share Posted November 9, 2021 Thanks Steve. I cannot wait to see it finished. I would say that I overdid it a bit with things like the leather shift boot cover and (soon) the leather handbrake cover when the factory originals were rubber.... it came with a front rubber floor mat and I wanted carpeting, and leather covering every upholstered surface when I suspect some of the surfaces (door panels?, kick panels?) may have originally been made from another material. In this case, I wanted this car the way I wanted it. This will be my last restoration, and I will drive it until I can no longer drive. Once I get it back, I am going to drive it for awhile to wring out any further mechanical issues in order to decide whether or not to refresh the engine. Part of me wants to take the engine out to make sure it is perfect and part of me wants to leave it unmolested. I am leaning towards perfect. 🙂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve9 Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 (edited) Well, you can’t be any better than perfect. The workmanship there by your upholstery man is superlative! Things are coming out great. The style and class of the 8 cylinder roadster is something to behold. Edited November 10, 2021 by Steve9 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 The Chrysler is home! The new seat is so comfortable and I sit so much higher now. I will take some pictures of the completed interior and post them sometime this weekend. I wanted to drive the Chrysler today but it is raining so I will have to wait. I suppose it is okay since I need to change the oil anyway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 Pictures from this morning. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 More… 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 Final for today… 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Wonderful! Patina on the outside and comfort on the inside. Love it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 26, 2021 Author Share Posted November 26, 2021 All, I am getting ready to paint my C8 back to the original black color, and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what (if any) contrasting color would have been used on the wheels. The factory interior was red (burgundy that they called red) leather, if this matters. I have looked at various internet images and factory brochures, but I cannot find anything that suggests a contrasting painted pattern on the wheels with a black C8CC. I would appreciate any suggestions. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted November 26, 2021 Share Posted November 26, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Moderator and Professor said: All, I am getting ready to paint my C8 back to the original black color, and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what (if any) contrasting color would have been used on the wheels. The factory interior was red (burgundy that they called red) leather, if this matters. I have looked at various internet images and factory brochures, but I cannot find anything that suggests a contrasting painted pattern on the wheels with a black C8CC. I would appreciate any suggestions. Joe Joe, My guess is your wheels were originally black. BUT, Just in case your not aware, your wheels probably had silver painted spoke points, and a double pin strip . I happen to be struggling with this part of the painting proccess right now. Given the fact that I used a 2 stage painting proccess, it doesn't look like this is possible, with those products. ERIC Edited November 26, 2021 by VW4X4 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 Thanks Eric. I have an original showroom image of a 1936 C8, but since the photograph is black and white, I cannot tell what color the painted spoke points are. I will have to double check the dual pin strip on the wheels, I don’t think I saw those in the photograph, but I may have missed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 All, I have a few questions that I am hoping to get some help on. My first question is whether or not my car originally came with a voltage regulator. My parts book does not list a voltage regulator, but my factory maintanence manual shows a voltage regulator and addresses how to adjust it. I think the picture below clearly shows that this voltage regulator is not a factory install, but it is not clear to me whether or not my car originally came with a voltage regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Second question: My head is not held on with head bolts, but rather, with studs and nuts. Is this a factory install or did someone change from head bolts to studs and nuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Final question: What is the black box on top of my generator called, and can I adjust it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 My cars, both C7, had that black box on the generator only.... I believe this is the regulator. Compared to today's technology these old mechanical regulators don't work very good. There are several ways can can update this system, and keep the stock look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 (edited) On 8/21/2021 at 10:38 PM, Moderator and Professor said: By the way, the gentleman in the blue shirt in the background is the 93 year old who gave me the car. I hope to be that fit and good looking when I will be 93 years old! Interesting story I discovered today. You intend to paint the car black, like factory. I know that my opinion only, but I prefer to see the car with the actual color. You are probably aware that to repaint the car, you will have to remove some trim panels to paint the door jambs for example. The logical process is to paint the car and do upholstery after. Edited November 28, 2021 by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 38 minutes ago, Roger Zimmermann said: I hope to be that fit and good looking when I will be 93 years old! Interesting story I discovered today. You intend to paint the car black, like factory. I know that my opinion only, but I prefer to see the car with the actual color. You are probably aware that to repaint the car, you will have to remove some trim panels to paint the door jambs for example. The logical process is to paint the car and do upholstery after. Thanks for the comment Roger. Because my interior had to be completely fabricated, I was worried that the upholstery shop might accidentally scratch the new paint. I would rather have the interior fabricated, remove it before painting, and then reinstall it after paint. This ensures that the paint will not be scratched by the interior fabrication process. If I scratch the paint when I install the interior, then I own the mistake. I suspect that I will be significantly less likely to scratch my paint job than anyone else. I followed this exact process when I restored my Corvair, and I did not scratch the paint when I reinstalled the interior, so with any luck, my Chrysler will exit the paint/interior process unscathed. 🙂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Thanks for your comments. If you are comfortable with this method, don't change! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 10 hours ago, Moderator and Professor said: Second question: My head is not held on with head bolts, but rather, with studs and nuts. Is this a factory install or did someone change from head bolts to studs and nuts? Most of the early Chrysler flathead engines had stud. The 241.5 CI six did for sure in 1936. My guess is studs were original to your 8 cylinder also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 11 hours ago, Moderator and Professor said: Final question: What is the black box on top of my generator called, and can I adjust it? That doesn't look to be the original, my c7 is larger and covers where the wires come up from the generator. You can see the smaller holes( just above the hole where the wires are coming out from) that are the screw thread for the larger box. Yours looks to be more like a simple battery cut-out that was used in many earlier models, however, not wired that way. There maybe an electronic regulator under that cover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 Thanks Moe! I can see the mounting holes now that you point them out. I will be removing the generator and rebuilding it, and will make sure it is correct at that time. Given the added on three terminal regulator mounted on the firewall, it wouldn’t surprise me at all if the factory regulator was removed and a hack put in its place. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedee Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 On 5/20/2020 at 8:13 AM, Moderator and Professor said: she said that he may be giving me the car and that I should not discuss payment. This a very beautiful car! Since it seems he is gifting you the car I would at the very least offer him a nice long cruise as soon as you get the car mechanically sound. I'm sure that will mean more to him then money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dariomotors Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Beautiful roadster. Thanks for posting your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 1, 2021 Author Share Posted December 1, 2021 11 hours ago, Seedee said: This a very beautiful car! Since it seems he is gifting you the car I would at the very least offer him a nice long cruise as soon as you get the car mechanically sound. I'm sure that will mean more to him then money I took him for a ride a couple of times before his health began failing. He is on hospice now. He got to see the new interior, but I am afraid he will not be around to see it painted back to the original color. One interesting note is that the 1936 Chrysler Airstream convertible C8 a friend of his owned back in 1942 was black with a red interior. It was this car that he dreamed of finding, and finally purchased in the early 1970s. The car he purchased was green with a tan interior… the car you see here… but he never knew that the car he owned was actually black with a red interior from the factory. When I showed him the original black under the green, and he saw the red leather interior, he was thrilled. All he could say was that he actually owned the car he always dreamed of… but he never knew it. I hope to take him for one more short ride this coming weekend. If I do, I will take a video and share it here. Joe 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 19, 2021 Author Share Posted December 19, 2021 With the help of the NOS headlight assembly, I managed to remove the sealed beam kit and install the original reflectors and lenses today. I have not wired the buckets since the wiring is in terrible condition after being hacked to install the sealed beams, and I need bulbs and sockets and the reflectors to be re-plated. I was so tired of looking at the non-original sealed beam headlights and am thrilled at seeing the original reflectors and lenses installed now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 Much improved! This is exactly what I'm trying to do on one of my cars. The second car, has headlights that are in very bad condition, but all original... Did you get the screw at the very bottom of the light working? Every light on my cars, the thread that holds this screw in place has been badly damaged, or completely ripped out. Obviously a weak link with these lights. I found a guy who had installed 5" LED sealed beam lights behind the original lens in a 30's olds. I am thinking about this idea if the reflectors can not be brought back to life or replaced. LEDS can be purchase in 6 or 12 volt. This would at least keep the original look. Make the car more drive-able, and only you and I would know.. The chrome rims on your lights are in great condition compared to every other car I've seen... ERIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 19, 2021 Author Share Posted December 19, 2021 Hi Eric, I have not installed the screws in the bottom yet. I will be taking the original screw from the NOS light to a local machine shop and ask them to fabricate a handful. With respect to the reflectors, I had some reflectors from a 1935 that were in decent condition. I had to drill out the springs from the reflectors and re-clock them to match the spring receptacles in the 1936 headlight trim ring. At this point, I am going to keep my eye out for a second set of reflectors that I can send out to have re-plated and then I will swap these reflectors out and sell them or keep them as spares. I like your idea of putting a sealed beam behind the original lens. I think that this would be relatively easy to do. If it were not for me trying to put my car back to original (or as close as I can given the dearth of parts available), I would probably be doing this type of conversion. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 19, 2021 Author Share Posted December 19, 2021 Here are some images of the inside of the NOS headlight. This may help someone trying to restore their headlights back to factory. Joe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 (edited) Joe, Thanks a bunch..... This is just what I needed to ensure what I have is correct, and complete. Now, obviously we are going to need to think outside the box to get these back to original condition.... After careful examination of all the data, I've concluded a few things: The original design did not work very well. The screw was obviously prone to rust, and alignment issues. The chrome rim, (all of them that I have) are very thin and prone to cracks. I think this is because of the heat that the light might generate if left on for any length of time. The rivets used on the reflectors break. Unless I found NOS lights like you have done, I don't think mine will ever be back to original. The original design clearly was more about style and manufacturing, than any type of ability to last. Clearly Chrysler had made these to make a statement to the world..... "look what we can do".... If you look at other manufactures at the time, very few, if any, ever came close to making a light this profound... I'm thinking of making a ring of sort that would take the place of the reflector. The center would be opened. This way, I can come up with a spring arrangement that you can get to the back of easily. This would allow the use of the original lens and chrome, (in what ever condition). I don't think the original locking screw at the bottom of the light can be reused without considerable work. I'm not sure that its even necessary. Then mounting a lamp inside would be required. I'm leaning toward a 5"LED bulb. The biggest issue I see is heat. These things have no way to vent the heat. I would hate to drill a bunch of hole in these lights, but that's exactly what they need, if they are actually going to be used for any length of time, and survive. I looked up the original lamp. Its only 26Watt. That's not much heat, (or light) Both low and high lamp filaments are the same. But the heat is very much captive, and has no way to escape. A modern day light is in the range of 55watt, and of course LED would be less. All things to consider when re-engineering. I work with several a machine shops..... I'll see if one of them is up for the task. ERIC Edited December 19, 2021 by VW4X4 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 20, 2021 Author Share Posted December 20, 2021 By the way, I wanted a painting of my car before it was restored (and will have another one commissioned after it is restored) so I commissioned a friend to create a painting of my car. Here it is: 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Hey Joe, look at this... It looks like the 1937 Hudson Terraplane may use the same reflector... Based on your pictures and this Ebay add, I'm going to say they are the same... https://www.ebay.com/itm/125061614695?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=e92c67a62f704bc6aba650b33db89937&bu=43154912395&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20211220070018&segname=11021&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cut%3Dut%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid Maybe we can find some parts after all. ERIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 Hi Eric. The Terraplane reflectors look the same to me as well. Nicely done! The price however, is insane. Maybe you can find just the reflectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 22, 2021 Author Share Posted December 22, 2021 Today I updated my Microsoft Excel spreadsheet with last couple of month’s worth of expenditures on the Chrysler. The total is an astonishing $28,246.21. This total includes the admittedly very expensive interior and top work ($9,800), which is the only work on this car that I did not do myself. Assuming I spend $20,000-ish for paint and another $3,500 rebuilding the engine (which currently runs fine but has a bit of water vapor in the oil which comes out the draft tube, and a leaking freeze plug at the rear of the engine), I will have over $60k in a car that will be worth $40k-ish when I am done. This said, I won’t be selling the car and I love working on it so I am happy to be upside down in a car that gives me so much pleasure. Joe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted December 22, 2021 Share Posted December 22, 2021 12 minutes ago, Moderator and Professor said: Today I updated my Microsoft Excel spreadsheet with last couple of month’s worth of expenditures on the Chrysler. The total is an astonishing $28,246.21. You are a brave man to (1) keep accurate records, and (2) actually look at them! But I think you certainly have the best attitude. And your car seems well worth it and very special. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Moderator and Professor said: Today I updated my Microsoft Excel spreadsheet with last couple of month’s worth of expenditures on the Chrysler. The total is an astonishing $28,246.21. This total includes the admittedly very expensive interior and top work ($9,800), which is the only work on this car that I did not do myself. Assuming I spend $20,000-ish for paint and another $3,500 rebuilding the engine (which currently runs fine but has a bit of water vapor in the oil which comes out the draft tube, and a leaking freeze plug at the rear of the engine), I will have over $60k in a car that will be worth $40k-ish when I am done. This said, I won’t be selling the car and I love working on it so I am happy to be upside down in a car that gives me so much pleasure. Joe This is one thing, that you really can't look at in today's world. You have to realize, there is a lot of immeasurable enjoyment from this hobby. Your contributing to a piece of automotive history. Specially in your case, where your car has a lot of interesting options and is very unique and special. As you may be aware, your really just the current caretaker of this car. Done correctly, the car will be around a lot longer than you will. SO, this is part of your legacy also.. On another note, $3500 to rebuild the engine? My six cylinder was $2000 for parts and machine work, this was back in 1990. I made all the gaskets, rebuilt all the accessories, cleaned and assembled the engine, myself. Now, Doing all that yourself, and If you own the machine shop and let marginal parts go, doing just a quick clean up, you might get by for $3500. What about the clutch, transmission, brakes and rear axle? This really makes you want to rethink how your going about this... ERIC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 Hi Eric, I was just tossing out a number on the rebuild that I thought was reasonable if I do all the rebuild work. I am certain you are right and it will be much more. I try to do everything the right way without cutting corners so if it costs more, I will pay whatever it takes. On another note, I am getting the garage cleaned up so that I can begin working on the car indoors; it is getting a tad cold out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 I went through this thread beginning to end today. I've really enjoyed the read and your detailed explanation of how you approached each of the sub-systems. I am working on a car of similar caliber (a '37 Cadillac Fleetwood Convertible Sedan) and will most certainly take note of your approach. While I think you got a better car than I did to start, I find your "drive it while you work on it" notion of restoration inspiring. I will continue to follow this thread with considerable interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 (edited) "drive it while you work on it" may be the best philosophy. I have a lots of mixed opinions on this. First, over the years I've seen a TON of very interesting vehicles, in pieces, and never finished. No doubt, that many of these, will never go back together. The longer its apart, the less likely it is. Pieces go missing, and you forget how they were assembled. Lots of small items, get replaced with non-original items. The classic excuse is "I don't have the time" (I always liked this BS). Complete disassembly usually comes after you find yourself with half the body disassembled, say, to get the engine out. In the 36 Chrysler you have to remove the front floor panels, the transmission and the entire front body, (fenders, bumper and rad support.) A lot of cars back then, had this same problem. Complete disassembly can also be encouraged when you find a lot of accessories must be removed to paint things like the fire wall. It becomes a "catch 22". Painting the body, you'll find that you have to sacrifice lots of quality, if its not going to be dismantled. A good example of this is all the areas, under the hood, under side of fenders, fire wall, door jams, under side of trunk lid, inner fenders. All these are part of the body, that must be painted the same color of the body, on most vehicles. Without this you sacrifice real restoration quality, and it will definitely show. There are many areas, that have rubber between the panels. I've seen a ton of cars where the rubber is just painted over.. That being said, those who painted over the rubber may know that completely dismantling may mean the death of the vehicle. Therefore they elected to keep it assembled and "do the best they can". These cars are often flipped, soon after painting, knowing the paint will be flaking off those rubber parts, sooner or later. There's also a theory that you may want to "do things right". So, you put off some hard work, when you remove parts for paint and expose unforeseen issues, example: a rust hole. A clean up paint job, ends up taking the vehicle off the road for years, for a small issues that could have been quickly patched, or a least quick preventive measures taken. This is also to common. The vehicle ends up off the road, forgotten and then in a junk yard. I'm not one who wants things to look good, but I do want things to function at least 110%. I will weld up the holes, and repair the body, piece by piece. Paint what I can, with what is disassembled at the time. I never remove a engine or drive train parts, unless death is imminent. Fit and function of doors, hood, and other body panels are critical. Interior, must be clean and comfortable. All the electrical items must work. I typically do a lot of hidden upgrades electrically . After all is said and done I like to drive these cars. I'm not going to get to upset about a rock flying up and chipping the paint. Last, I'll never waste my money or time on a trailer queen. People who do have a trailer queen, I'm sure die and early death... I hope this brings some food for though.. ERIC Edited December 24, 2021 by VW4X4 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 (edited) I have done restoration both ways. My approach at this point is restore every last nut, bolt and cotter pin, but only if I am 100% confident that I can successfully reassemble the car. On other words, I only completely restore Ford Model T's and I think I could handle a 46-48 Nash as I've owned several of them. My Cadillac is almost certainly going to be a frame-on refurbishment with drivability as the primary goal. I know there are people who participate in this forum who are fully capable of doing all the work themselves on a very complicated car. I admire them particularly the author of this post. I am not one of them. Edited December 25, 2021 by ericmac Clarification (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 25, 2021 Author Share Posted December 25, 2021 With respect to the “rolling” restorations I do; I realize that they are not the most efficient (cost or time) way to restore a car. Being able to drive my car while I work on it keeps me motivated. Every little component restoration brings with it the joy of actually using the car and testing the system before I begin the next part of the restoration. If you have ever seen the movie “Christine”, you will understand my approach. I need the motivation created by driving my cars as I restore them, and the cost and added inconvenience are negligible to me. I build my cars as best as I can (or I pay someone to do things I cannot do like interior and paint) and then I drive the heck out of them. I completely understand why people like perfection in their cars, and I like it too… but I must drive them. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor Posted December 27, 2021 Author Share Posted December 27, 2021 I took Mr. Taylor out for an hour-long ride today. Here are a few images: 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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