Eddie-O Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Hello again folks, OK, took some pics of the unit in front of the axle housing and I hope this can help resolve my dilemma . Not the best pics, but you'll get the point. I'm leaning towards what some of you have mentioned, an over drive perhaps ?You'll see the drain plug on the bottom and what appears to be a fill plug on top. Would this unit take the same gear oil as the axle? Also, what would be the correct level of oil? How would I know it's where it should be? Thought I would just pull the plugs and see if there is a dip stick or gauge on one, but I don't dare without knowing for sure. I know there has to be someone on this forum who has the same unit! This is my last item to care for before I take her for a spin. Thank's to you all for any help or advise and all stay healthy. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 I still think that is the pinion lock screw. Looks like the one on my '50 Ben 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILIKECARS53 Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 I agree it is not a drain plug. The only way I know to change the rear end fluid is to remove the cover. That is not an overdrive unit. That is stock 1942 Buick torque tube to rear end attaching point. Jim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Eddie-o, Here is a pix of my over drive on the pax side. This side has two plugs. The rearward plug has a vent pipe that crosses over the OD. Just forward of that one is a second plug. This one is a bit lower and is used as a full fill level. The bottom of the OD case has a drain plug when flushing / cleaning the OD. The OD is filled with 90/140 rear end gear oil. You replace the bottom plug and snug it like you would the drain on the rear end. Have both side plugs open and refill the OD using the upper opening. Fill the OD until oil begins to come out the lower side opening. Then plug the lower opening and replace the upper opening with the plug that has the vent tube. Be sure the vent tube goes up and over the OD. This way the OD does not pressurize and blow out the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 (edited) Don't remove that. It holds the pinion bearing in. Taking the lower pan bolt(s) out should drain it. Remove the pan to clean out inside. Pay attention to the location of the fill plug on the pan. Someone in here probably knows how far below the hole to fill. If not, get the capacity from the service manual, and put that much in (or a tiny bit less). Many older cars did not fill all the way level with the fill plug like newer ones. Edited April 3, 2020 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 When I change oil in my OD, I use a magnet on a stick and insert it in both side openings. The ole finger inserted also helps. Why you say ?, Well last year when I was doing my PM under my '38-46s' I found a small amount of 'stuff' inside. I stuck my magnet in and found a bearing cage that was on its way to destroying itself. The 'cage' is the part of the ball bearing that keeps the balls equally spaced around the races. These two ( sometimes only one ) bearings are on the out put shaft of the OD. Most OD's have two. You need to disassemble the OD and clean, and replace all three bearings inside the OD. Make sure to replace them with bearing that are NOT MANUFACTURED IN CHINA.. I owned a bearing shop for over 18 years. I know what works and what is a poor choice. Chinese bearings are poor quality - - -. Even Rusian bearings are better. If you have any questions, e-mail me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Yes, do NOT loosen the bolts (three at 120 * ) as they hold the pinion shaft forward in the pumpkin. Drain the rear end using the bottom plug. Oil that is in the pinion area will drain - via gravity, to the bottom of the tear end. Removing the rear cover will let you look in the rear and see if there is any 'sluge' in the bottom. All the rears I've worked on are fairly clean and the oil is also clean. If dirty, you will see it now. You can stick your hand into the bottom of the pumpkin and wipe the residual oil out for final inspection. Clean the gasket area and replace the cover using RTV on the gasket. Just enough to lightly cover the gasket on both sides. Put it together and use a torque wrench to tighten the cover to the pumpkin. Then (if you replaced the cover in the correct orientation) refill with rear end oil up to the plug opening at the back. The factory oil level determined by the factory plug, gets you there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 I agree with Ben First Born. Here is from the 1918 owner's manual, they call it the pinion shaft bearing. It takes grease, not oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Here is the spot where I had to scrape an inch of mud and horse poop off to find the pinion shaft cover. It had not been greased in 102 years when I did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 (edited) What? Overdrives? Grease? 1918?!!!! Hate to be this contrary, but no, no, and no. I get that the OP did not post a make model, and year, but April Fools Day is over, and this is getting ridiculous. The pictures show a Buick rearend, probably with hypoid gears, probably from the late 30s or the 40s. The bolts with a locknut hold the front pinion bearing in. They are torqued, locknutted and sealed with sealer when the rear axle is assembled. They should not be screwed with ever, unless one is tearing down the axle completely, and removing or replacing the bearing. The bearing is oiled by the rear axle oil. Edited April 3, 2020 by Bloo (see edit history) 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie-O Posted April 3, 2020 Author Share Posted April 3, 2020 You guys are GREAT! Thanks for all the input and help. I got it. I'll just drain the oil through the rear cover, clean, replace gasket and refill. I'll leave that front unit alone. BTW , I failed to mention that it's a 41 Sedanette with dual carb, flat eight. Ordering the gasket today and with a little luck, do the shake down ride next week Snow and salt are gone, but still rain for next couple days. That's OK though, will help to wash the last of the salt away. I'm going to assume the cover plug is in the correct orientation in the first pic . Don't know if it was ever off but if it was I'm hoping they installed it correctly. The car had a full restoration a few years back so I'm guessing it was done right. Everything else on the car was done perfectly from front to back. I can't thank all of you enough! Stay healthy and safe Ed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 Excellent choice. Nice to get it back on the road. Love the Sadanette. I like coupes and two door cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted April 3, 2020 Share Posted April 3, 2020 On my '37, I removed the cover completely to clean out the old oil. Remove the cover and clean out years of thick goop Done.. everything cleaned up Scrape the old gasket completely Now nice and clean, I applied a thin bead of permatex black Be sure you orient it the same way it came off so the fill is at the correct height Button her up and fill only to the drain hole. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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