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1966 Riviera Circuit Board


kreed

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Working on my dash of my 1966 Riviera since a couple lights aren’t working and found my circuit board has a couple issues as you can see -have no idea what these control. 1. Can this be repaired ? 2. Does anyone have  a good one that they want to sell? 3. Are these reproduced by anyone . Thanks for the help .

KReed

ROA14549

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16DE0C54-69F7-43A7-9AFC-B4F73D271981.jpeg

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Hi Ken,

  Hard to tell from your pic if the clear coating over the copper circuit has deteriorated or if the copper strip has a void? If the clear coat has peeled away not a big deal as that wont interrupt the circuit but if there is a break in the copper strip that is a failure. A break in a copper strip can be repaired by simply soldering a wire onto the copper strip on both sides of the break to create a "bridge" over the break. I did this on a dishwasher circuit board when I didnt have time or the funds to shop for a new dishwasher and it lasted for 20 years!

  BTW...one of my neighbors owned the company that designed and supplied GM with these printed circuit boards for decades...interesting guy,

Tom

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You can buy repair kits for rear window defoggers that have every thing you need to repair one of these.  They come with a tape strip that has a slit in it that you use to mask off everything you don't want to carry a current.  Then you brush on a liqiud copper coating between in the slit.  Remove the masks and let cure.  You can only do one circuit at a time.

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Ken

I probably have one if you decide not to repair. I'll look this weekend. I've never tried to repair one but agree it could be done though it would require some skill at soldering. Trace the copper tracks and see what these two circuits are suppling. Perhaps there could be a cause downstream or maybe it just failed from age. Appears that it failed at the thinnest section.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Thanks Tom and Ed - definitely a break in the circuit on at least one and probably both lines . Will try to repair  as I suspect  they are impossible to find  used . Tearing into my “ beater 66 “ for the Winter project . At the paint shop now . Taking off the “ painted in a sandstorm black lacquer “ and returning to original gunmetal gray - a color I had  never seen before . This is the car that I bought on EBay a few years ago that the owner said had a 8/10 paint job from all the 100 photoshopped pictures  he sent . He obviously didn’t understand that 10 was the best , not the worst ! Thankfully , it was a California car for most of its life and has very little rust but looks like it’s had more than one paint job .  I learned that lesson the hard way . He suddenly disappeared after I complained to him when the car arrived . Not the first mistake I’ve made and sure he won’t be the last 😒! Before and during pics
KReed

ROA 14549

76B0AB29-E00C-4EFB-A59B-754328008077.jpeg

6A2B82F8-EFFC-4720-9029-5A46A05E98B0.jpeg

3F0C0C12-A396-41CF-BDB4-971EDFEE4846.jpeg

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image.jpeg.0f9f069bc4e15bf0b1ecc756972c527f.jpeg
Like Mr. Ed stated.

Make sure you stir up the copper with a toothpick because it sticks to the bottle base. Don’t flex the circuit card - have all bulbs in before the application. I’d put on quite a few coats to minimize resistance.

 

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3 hours ago, kreed said:

Thanks Tom and Ed - definitely a break in the circuit on at least one and probably both lines . Will try to repair  as I suspect  they are impossible to find  used . Tearing into my “ beater 66 “ for the Winter project . At the paint shop now . Taking off the “ painted in a sandstorm black lacquer “ and returning to original gunmetal gray - a color I had  never seen before . This is the car that I bought on EBay a few years ago that the owner said had a 8/10 paint job from all the 100 photoshopped pictures  he sent . He obviously didn’t understand that 10 was the best , not the worst ! Thankfully , it was a California car for most of its life and has very little rust but looks like it’s had more than one paint job .  I learned that lesson the hard way . He suddenly disappeared after I complained to him when the car arrived . Not the first mistake I’ve made and sure he won’t be the last 😒! Before and during pics
KReed

ROA 14549

76B0AB29-E00C-4EFB-A59B-754328008077.jpeg

6A2B82F8-EFFC-4720-9029-5A46A05E98B0.jpeg

3F0C0C12-A396-41CF-BDB4-971EDFEE4846.jpeg

Gunmetal is an awesome color

Tom

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not necessary to buy a repair kit if you have (1) a soldering iron (2) solder (3) a few inches of wire.

The wire does not need to be heavy duty.   Clean the area where it is broken,  determine where good solid circuit stops.

Cut a piece of wire long enough to span the gap.... strip the ends of the wire and tin them.

Carefully tin the end of the good circuit...... now lay the stripped wire on the tinned circuit and solder.....repeat on other end.

After successfully completing the jumper,  you might want to put some tape over the jumper so it does not get caught on anything in the dash.

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These flex printed circuit boards were not intended to last forever, and were made from a copper photo etched material that was sandwiched between a clear mylar carrier, and a protective clear cover.

Unfortunately the copper could delaminate from the carrier sheet, breaking the electrical continuity., and rendering some circuits U/S (Unserviceable) - "read useless" !

Small breaks can be repaired by soldering jumper strips of wire to complete the circuits, or "good used" is probably your best source.

Nobody has ever attempted any reproductions of these items, that are prone to failure and old age.

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What?

 

This is not a circuit "board" which are made of phenolic resins.

 

This is an old - probably Mylar film which would have a melting point of 489'F according to Dupont. Probably has lost is flex and become somewhat brittle.

 

Your average soldering iron tip is at 626' to 662'F. Solder melts at 370'F.

 

You are nuts to solder on that in my opinion.

 

Edited by PWB
TYPOS (see edit history)
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Sorry......been soldering all my life,  thought everyone could do it.

Bottom line......what do you have to loose?  It is already broken.

Go to the pick n pull and get a similar flex circuit and practice.

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20 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

  In pondering this repair I cant imagine there is a member with a skill set more suited to this somewhat delicate operation!! 😉

  Good luck Ken,

Tom

It took me a few seconds to get this. LOL. You are funny 😂 

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6 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Not mine.  "yours" - a plural possessive pronoun.  Meaning yours, not mine.  If the shoe fits, wear it (and hide your painted toe nails.) 😊

Why would you wear shoes if you paint your toenails? Sometimes I just dont understand you Ed...🤔

Tom M

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  This is the machine of destruction I purchased quite a few years ago and use for what I perceive as delicate soldering jobs. I originally purchased it to replace indicator light bulbs in modern radios and control panels as they are generally soldered into circuit boards from the OEM. It is only rated at 25 watts and heats up rather slowly so is forgiving. I`m not a soldering freak but I recall several tips which were available and change the wattage rating. I`ve probably made 30 repairs with this iron and it has saved me thousands of dollars for myself and customers in not having to replace radios, hvac control modules, etc...and I think it cost me less than 20 bucks. I`m about to use it to replace indicator bulbs in my 2003 Escalade work truck which just turned 300K and shows no sign of giving up.

  Soldering, much like other skills, requires patience, practice and experience but is a skill that is quickly acquired to obtain acceptable results.

  Solder on!

 

Tom Mooney

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