Bringing back Dad's ‘53 two--door Buick Special

[Dan hosman]

I did not. I was considering just getting a tune up kit with one including spark plugs and the wires as well. I see I could’ve gotten the rotor as well in such a kit.

[JohnD1956]

The thing about a kit is that the price is usually just a bit less than buying the parts separately, but you don't really know the quality of the components of the kit.  Personally I'd spend a few extra bucks to be able to have a choice of parts.  

 

As for spark plug wires, I recommend the Beldens set.  I have them on a few cars right now and am very satisfied with them.  However on the '53, I would take the extra precaution of shielding the wires to the plugs with the inexpensive plastic wire loam I get at Walmart, in the auto electrical section.  They fit under the spark plug covers and ensure elimination of potential cross fire.  Otherwise you have to see the manual for how to run the wires under the spark plug covers. 

 

Here is a picture of what I am talking about. 

 

[61polara]

The most important thing mentioned above is to clean, file the points.  Take the distributor cap off and turn the engine until the points are closed.  Leave the ignition switch on and with a screw driver open the points.  You should see a spark.  If no spark, clean the points again.  If no spark check to see If you have power to the +side of the coil.  If not, look further back.  When you have spark dribble a little gas down the carb and try to start.  If it fires, but does not run you have a fuel not ignition problem.

 

[61polara]

I think the daily limit only applies to photos.

[Dan hosman]

Spark achieved at plug!

 

My new stuff came in. Spark plug wires. Plugs. Distributor cap. And points (but they were wrong orientation). I did end up going separate on everything through advance auto (25% off online). Since new points were wrong I used a finer sandpaper to clean old ones up more and adjusted gap some- got a better spark. At this point I made several attempts to fire up engine. Used starter fluid and dribbled gas into carb. It was close and almost took off twice but never got there. Thinking if I had held onto throttle link a bit longer the one time it may have (maybe I let it go to quickly). Noticed throughout attempts it definitely takes the power down and I would have to wait before I could get a solid spin next time. I’m Using my charger with the 40a boost. Easy does it though, and I’ll have to give it a go next time I can get back to it. Maybe I’ll try the 200a engine start option on my charger next time. I noticed when I wanted to in the midst of these attempts it wasn’t coming on (in the chargers manual it says it could be overheated and needs time to reset- which is exactly what that was as it came on later). 

 

Thanks a a ton for all your help getting here. Wouldn’t be able to without it.

 

dan

[Dan hosman]

I should add, there’s no fuel pump on it rt now! Was just seeing if I can get it to run. May even get a cheaper electric one with correct psi (rig it up to a little gas can) and add a switch to it for these early stage purposes of determining running condition.

[Bill Stoneberg]

I have been known to tak a funnel with the correct sized hose and attach it to the carb.  All you need to do is to fill the float chamber and it should run for a minute or so.

 

[victorialynn2]

On 7/17/2019 at 8:37 PM, JohnD1956 said:

 

Batteries can be expensive.  But that car looks to be worth the expense.  Invest in a kill switch with a new battery.  And never leave the car in your garage unattended with the battery connected.  

 

 

I have a question unrelated to the original thread that i hope the OP doesn’t mind. My dad’s 57 Skyliner has a kill switch. What is the purpose? Safety? Preserve Battery?

 

Thank you!

 

Ps Love the Buick! Please continue to post pics as you bring it back to life!

Edited July 25, 2019 by victorialynn2 (see edit history)

[victorialynn2]

On 7/21/2019 at 6:26 PM, 61polara said:

I think the daily limit only applies to photos.

It’s also limited me out on “likes”. 

[Bloo]

28 minutes ago, victorialynn2 said:

I have a question unrelated to the original thread that i hope the OP doesn’t mind. My dad’s 57 Skyliner has a kill switch. What is the purpose? Safety? Preserve Battery?

 

Both!

 

Newer cars with engine controls, digital radios, alternators with electronic regulators, etc. have a constant draw on the battery, and that will run the battery dead if it sits for a while. The more current drawn, the faster it happens.

 

Old cars like your Skyliner would have no current draw when shut off, unless there is a clock. Even if there is no clock, a door or glovebox can get not quite shut, or malfunction, leaving a light on to run the battery dead.

 

Older cars often have unfused circuits, due, among other things, to the unreliability of the old glass fuses and their holders. Aditionally, some circuits are "always on". A notorious one is the dome light. Dome light wiring is usually switched on the ground side, so the wire is hot all the time. In sedans that wire is buried under the headliner, where you can't see it's condition.

 

Some people might also think of it as an anti-theft device.

 

Edited July 25, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Dan hosman]

I am pleased to share that I got the Buick super fired up ! I rigged a gallon container with a similar diameter hose line straight to the carb (with a new fuel filter tied in before the carb). Got it fired up and running with light throttling for about a minute and half after many attempts. I added a bit of oil to the old oil for this little run. Next up, after an oil change, I am aiming to figure out fuel system. Needs pump. If I can find old one and rebuild with a kit, great. If not I’ll have to decide to buy a complete rebuilt one (eBay 200$-pretty high) or even tie in a much cheaper little electric one (30$) with the correct psi. And figure out how to get it to switch on. And then I also will have to decide between removing and cleaning fuel tank up, taking it to a cleaning tank service company, or find a similarly sized new tank to fit. Cost, quality, and ease of job are all gona be factors I’ll consider. Then onto tires, compatible disc brakes up front, and radiator for drivability. Any tips, tricks or advice? 

 

Thanks again! 

[lancemb]

Take the tank down, get rid of the old fuel (bonfire?), and see what it looks like inside; that may give you all the direction you need from there.  If it looks pretty clean (except for old fuel varnish), I'd keep the original tank.  You can decide then if you want to try and clean it out yourself.  Then, replace all fuel lines.

 

I'd probably change the oil as well before running it more.  Now that you have had it running, once you get the fuel system clean and pumping, running clean oil through it is a good idea.

 

I'd also recommend changing all of the brake lines and hoses on any car that's been sitting for a very long time before any serious driving.  It removes a very big worry factor (IMO, anyway).

[Rusty Heaps]

On 9/9/2019 at 1:25 PM, lancemb said:

 

 

 

 

I'd also recommend changing all of the brake lines and hoses on any car that's been sitting for a very long time before any serious driving.  It removes a very big worry factor (IMO, anyway).

I second that motion. All new brake components are cheap insurance. I'd go one farther and replace master and wheel cylinders. Not much expense considering what your life is worth!