38rcdodge Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Yes very cool and helpful info.👍 thanks. I look forward to sending away for the build card for mine. and learning what is factory. 😊 looks like " Ol' Betsy" is coming along nicely. is the grey her original color? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 1 hour ago, 38rcdodge said: is the grey her original color? Best we can tell...color code on the build card was "4", which we could not track down, so the color analyzer did the best it could...we threw a bit of tint in it to get it close to some old photos we found. Interior is the standard battleship grey they all came with.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Nice. it looks good. I read somewhere what colors were standard options, I think a grey was one of them, but not positive. of course someone could have ordered a custom color. mine was the Milori green I believe. I mixed my own, just using remaining original paint as a guide. got it somewhat close, but not perfect. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) All snugged back up and balanced, ready to go back in... Edited May 7, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Looks very good. what was done to tighten the pin up again ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 7 hours ago, 38rcdodge said: Looks very good. what was done to tighten the pin up again ? I had caught mine early enough that they had not been doing additional damage..so I built up the hole about .030" and bored it down with a drill press to fit...hence the reason to re-balance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) Sounds good👍 great there was no other damage. did you weld it up, or use some other technique?. also did you find the numbers stamped on it? I'd be curious if yours has a letter /number date code. on the damaged shaft that came in mine it has the(incorrect) part number, other unidentified numbers, and k0. (Nonember 1940?) the replacement from a '37 is stamped F7 {June1937?) . if my guess is right yours would probably have a code ending in 7 also, given the very early production. Edited May 8, 2019 by 38rcdodge errors (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 TIG weld, I will look for a number when I'm back at the shop later this week. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Cool, that's the right way. after getting a MIG welder I realized I really want a TIG welder 😂 . no hurry on the numbers.😊 they are stamped on one end, right by one of the weld beads. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 Can you measure your hood hinge? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 (edited) 6 hours ago, countrytravler said: Can you measure your hood hinge? Mine measures 38-13/16'' long on the external visible part if that helps: Edited May 7, 2019 by 38rcdodge (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 7, 2019 Share Posted May 7, 2019 9 hours ago, Surf City '38 said: I will look for a number when I'm back at the shop later this week. Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 38 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said: Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?): Nov 1940? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 39 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said: Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?): June 1937? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 59 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said: Mine measures 38-13/16'' long on the external visible part if that helps: Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 46 minutes ago, countrytravler said: June 1937? Yeah its my guess, not sure how to confirm it though unless others have the same code and it corresponds to the production date at least roughly. Why I'm interested what Alan's says. and it would be interesting to know if 592840 is the correct part number for a 1940 or '41. then K0 would likely mean November 1940. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) 1 On 5/7/2019 at 9:56 AM, countrytravler said: On 5/7/2019 at 9:56 AM, countrytravler said: Can you measure your hood hinge? Thanks Here you go Pal, so for the outer half, which is the part showing on the top of the cowl, I came up with split a 38 3/4" or 38 13/16", should be close enough for what he needs. Edited May 9, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 (edited) On 5/7/2019 at 6:35 PM, 38rcdodge said: Yeah its my guess, not sure how to confirm it though unless others have the same code and it corresponds to the production date at least roughly. Why I'm interested what Alan's says. and it would be interesting to know if 592840 is the correct part number for a 1940 or '41. then K0 would likely mean November 1940. 579386 I-7 (a dash is present), hard to see in the photo, no sun today in SoCal... Edited May 9, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 9, 2019 Share Posted May 9, 2019 12 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said: 579386 I-7 (a dash is present), hard to see in the photo, no sun today in SoCal... Very good, thanks.👍 and August '37 seems just about right for a very early '38. So is likely original to your truck. I can make out most of it. Not much sun a little further north either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 Getting ready to lay out the wire harness and attach, while waiting for the cab....may be few more weeks, broke the door stop mount on the driver's cab side. ☹️Will have to fab a new one....Oh so close.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 12, 2019 Share Posted May 12, 2019 (edited) Cool, wiring is always fun☺️. not so with the door stop mount breaking☹️ Hopefully not a difficult fabrication. Edited May 12, 2019 by 38rcdodge error (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 19, 2019 Author Share Posted May 19, 2019 Period correct, but not original generator....8K6 8 = 1938 K = November 6 = 6 day of the month. Build card is October 6 1937....bummer.😞 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 (edited) Not a perfect date match, but could be worse.☺️ mine is missing the tag, so I don't even know what its for.😂 I'm curious though, are you sure Delco Remy is correct? I've always thought its supposed to be Autolite. but could be mistaken. Edited May 20, 2019 by 38rcdodge error (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 7 hours ago, Surf City '38 said: Period correct, but not original generator....8K6 8 = 1938 K = November 6 = 6 day of the month. Build card is October 6 1937....bummer.😞 1939 Oldsmobile 6 & 8, 6V Negative ground, uses No. 5858 regulator. Probably third brush with a split field. About 28 amps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 7 hours ago, Bloo said: 1939 Oldsmobile 6 & 8, 6V Negative ground, uses No. 5858 regulator. Probably third brush with a split field. About 28 amps. Thanks for the input, very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 Found a close replacement, fits many applications, ‘37 MC, ME & MF, ‘38 RE and RF, ‘37 Plymouth P4....so this one is period correct, just a bit off on the Application. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted May 25, 2019 Author Share Posted May 25, 2019 Fabricated a new door stop mount inside the drivers side A pillar...I added a 1/8 inch back brace then slide the mount through it...tight space for a weld. Put some mud on the front and will respray. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 3 hours ago, Surf City '38 said: Found a close replacement, fits many applications, ‘37 MC, ME & MF, ‘38 RE and RF, ‘37 Plymouth P4 Very nice. ☺️ close enough I would say. interesting it was used on '37 MC and '38 RE but not RC I wonder what the reason was to change it on RC's. The new door stop mount looks great.👍 yeah it must have been fun welding in there... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 Quick update, turned the distributor, built period correct spark plug wires, and bent 3/16 vacuum line to the advance...next up is exhaust down pipe, silencer and tail pipe, splash guards and cab.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 It is so good to see correct spark plug wires, not yellow with some sort of red or black check on them. Xclnt. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 Finished off today.... 1) Exhaust from manifold to tailpipe.... 2) The PItA splash tin.....(am not looking forward to removing them in the future once the fenders & radiator are in) Was thinking to tack a small weld to the nut side..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 I'm not sure you have the four sets of steel slotted cone nuts and thick counter sunk brass washers in the correct places on your manifolds. Don't they belong only on the two ends of the exhaust manifolds? I might be wrong on the older engines.... The purpose of those special tapered cone huts and 3/8" thick countersunk brass washers is to let the ends of the exhaust manifold flex and move preventing the ends from cracking. Some pics of this special washer arrangement. What and where they are placed. Four .167" thick steel washers are used at the red X's 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted July 6, 2019 Author Share Posted July 6, 2019 (edited) Hi Bob, very helpful for sure, I will make the adjustment. Logically, the way I saw this was since the inner manifolds are not completely shouldered, meaning not a complete hole with 360 degrees of shoulder surface, then the brass and cone would spread the torque better, and this is why I placed them in the center manifold shoulders.... But when thinking about the effect of heat on cast iron, this makes total sense to allow the flex on the outer manifolds in relation to the inner "chunk" of cast. 👍 Edited July 6, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 (edited) Edited July 14, 2019 by Surf City '38 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38rcdodge Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Looking great. 👍 you could almost drive it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 Ok Folks...Cab was installed back to the frame, so I am going to be continuing the convo here....LINK 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.....😁 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 Need to do a bit more fine tuning on the Shell and Grill....but coming together nicely. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wldavis Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Alan, That chassis assembly is really too pretty to cover up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cutler Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 8 hours ago, wldavis said: Alan, That chassis assembly is really too pretty to cover up. Agree! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now