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Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project


Alan Cutler
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Yes very cool and helpful info.👍 thanks. I look forward to sending away for the build card for mine. and learning what is factory. 😊  looks like " Ol' Betsy" is coming along nicely.;) is the grey her original color? 

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1 hour ago, 38rcdodge said:

is the grey her original color? 

 

Best we can tell...color code on the build card was "4", which we could not track down, so the color analyzer did the best it could...we threw a bit of tint in it to get it close to some old photos we found. Interior is the standard battleship grey they all came with....

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Nice. it looks good.  I read somewhere what colors were standard options, I think a grey was one of them, but not positive. of course someone could have ordered a custom color. mine was the Milori green I believe. I mixed my own, just using remaining original paint as a guide. got it somewhat close, but not perfect.

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7 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

Looks very  good. what was done to tighten the pin up again ?

 

I had caught mine early enough that they had not been doing additional damage..so I built up the hole about .030" and bored it down with a drill press to fit...hence the reason to re-balance.

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Sounds good👍 great there was no other damage. did you weld it up, or use some other technique?.  also did you find the numbers stamped on it? I'd be curious if yours has a letter /number date code. on the damaged shaft that came in mine it has the(incorrect) part number, other unidentified numbers,  and k0. (Nonember 1940?) the replacement from a '37 is stamped F7 {June1937?) . if my guess is right yours would probably have a code ending in 7 also, given the very early production. 

Edited by 38rcdodge
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9 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:

I will look for a number when I'm back at the shop later this week.

Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?):

20190213_154404.jpg

20190213_154414.jpg

20190507_154441.jpg

20190507_154455.jpg

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38 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said:

Here's a some photos of the numbers on mine . first the '37 with the correct 579386 part number and F7 (date code?). and the one I think is 1940 with the part number 592840 and K0 (date code?):

20190213_154404.jpg

20190213_154414.jpg

20190507_154441.jpg

20190507_154455.jpg

Nov 1940?

 

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46 minutes ago, countrytravler said:

June 1937?

Yeah its my guess,  not sure how to confirm it though unless others have the same code and it corresponds to the production date at least roughly. Why I'm interested what Alan's  says. and it would be interesting to know if 592840 is the correct part number for a 1940 or '41. then K0 would likely mean November 1940. 

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1
On 5/7/2019 at 9:56 AM, countrytravler said:
On 5/7/2019 at 9:56 AM, countrytravler said:

Can you measure your hood hinge?

Thanks

 

 

Here you go Pal, so for the outer half, which is the part showing on the top of the cowl, I came up with split a 38 3/4" or 38 13/16", should be close enough for what he needs.

IMG_5163.jpg

IMG_5161.jpg

IMG_5160.jpg

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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On 5/7/2019 at 6:35 PM, 38rcdodge said:

Yeah its my guess,  not sure how to confirm it though unless others have the same code and it corresponds to the production date at least roughly. Why I'm interested what Alan's  says. and it would be interesting to know if 592840 is the correct part number for a 1940 or '41. then K0 would likely mean November 1940. 

 

579386 I-7 (a dash is present), hard to see in the photo, no sun today in SoCal...

 

 

IMG_5165.jpg

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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12 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said:

579386 I-7 (a dash is present), hard to see in the photo, no sun today in SoCal...

Very good, thanks.👍  and August '37 seems just about right for a very early '38. So is likely original to your truck. I can make out most of it. Not much sun  a little further north either. :D

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Getting ready to lay out the wire harness and attach, while waiting for the cab....may be few more weeks, broke the door stop mount on the driver's cab side. ☹️Will have to fab a new one....Oh so close....

IMG_5175 (002).jpg

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7 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:

Period correct, but not original generator....8K6

 

8 = 1938

K = November

6 = 6 day of the month.

 

Build card is October 6 1937....bummer.😞

Gen Tag.jpg

 

1939 Oldsmobile 6 & 8, 6V Negative ground, uses No. 5858 regulator. Probably third brush with a split field. About 28 amps.

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7 hours ago, Bloo said:

 

1939 Oldsmobile 6 & 8, 6V Negative ground, uses No. 5858 regulator. Probably third brush with a split field. About 28 amps.

 

Thanks for the input, very helpful.

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Found a close replacement, fits many applications, ‘37 MC, ME & MF, ‘38 RE and RF, ‘37 Plymouth P4....so this one is period correct, just a bit off on the Application.

57644524-E147-4CA0-B7E4-1D72CC91D93F.jpeg

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Fabricated a new door stop mount inside the drivers side A pillar...I added a 1/8 inch back brace then slide the mount through it...tight space for a weld. Put some mud on the front and will respray.

E5E8BB22-C424-48E1-AF62-6F6823355624.jpeg

DC3AB8C5-DAC9-4DFE-B321-D50D9EF44389.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:

Found a close replacement, fits many applications, ‘37 MC, ME & MF, ‘38 RE and RF, ‘37 Plymouth P4

Very nice. ☺️ close enough  I would say.    interesting it was used on '37 MC and '38 RE but not RC I wonder what the reason was to change it on RC's. 

 The new door stop mount looks great.👍 yeah  it must have been fun welding in there... 

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Quick update, turned the distributor, built period correct spark plug wires, and bent 3/16 vacuum line to the advance...next up is exhaust down pipe, silencer and tail pipe, splash guards and cab....

image.jpg

image.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Finished off today....

 

1) Exhaust from manifold to tailpipe....

2) The PItA splash tin.....(am not looking forward to removing them in the future once the fenders & radiator are in)

 

Was thinking to tack a small weld to the nut side.....

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IMG_5314.jpg

IMG_5315.jpg

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I'm not sure you have the four sets of steel slotted cone nuts and thick counter sunk brass washers in the correct places on your manifolds.

Don't they belong only on the two ends of the exhaust manifolds?

I might be wrong on the older engines....

The purpose of those special tapered cone huts and 3/8" thick countersunk brass washers is to let the ends of the exhaust manifold flex and move preventing the ends from cracking.

Some pics of this special washer arrangement. What and where they are placed.

Four .167" thick steel washers are used  at the red X's

Manifold Cone nuts and brass Washers.jpg

Cone nuts manifold washers studs Ply Dod Desoto.JPG

Mopar Flathead Six Manifold+Bolts2.jpg

MoPar 6 cyl Fattie Manifold bolts (5).JPG

MoPar 6 cyl Fattie Manifold bolts (6).JPG

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Hi Bob, very helpful for sure, I will make the adjustment.

 

Logically, the way I saw this was since the inner manifolds are not completely shouldered, meaning not a complete hole with 360 degrees of shoulder surface, then the brass and cone would spread the torque better, and this is why I placed them in the center manifold shoulders....

 

But when thinking about the effect of heat on cast iron, this makes total sense to allow the flex on the outer manifolds in relation to the inner "chunk" of cast. 

 

👍

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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