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Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project


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17 minutes ago, 38rcdodge said:


Its looking great:)  I'm actually surprised how nice your old water distribution tube is. in my case what was left  came out in about 3 pieces...  

 

One piece, but with many holes.....all over the place....I will be so glad once i get the drive train in....all down hill after that.

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Yup looking carefully I see the holes. still you're lucky it came out in one piece. getting the drive train in will be a big milestone for sure.   in my case I've actually not had the engine out or completely apart yet, it runs well enough, but will need rings at least  eventually I think. do you also still have the original engine? I think I can make out T58-XXXX.

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Awesome :) well worth the painstaking restoration then. I still need to send away for the build card, definitely will eventually. I have T58-19191 so much later.I see yours was built in October '37 . I've found casting dates of march '38 so seems about right .

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  • 2 months later...

Next step, press the new ring gear on to the flywheel....spin balance the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel, paint an alignment mark, disassemble and attach to the back of the crank shaft using my spare input shaft as an alignment tool, then ready to drop in the frame...

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/12/2018 at 5:28 PM, Surf City '38 said:

Ok Folks finished up the master cylinder rebuild...Not much happening the rest of the summer, waiting for the engine blueprinting, vulcanized rubber, emblem rebuilds and of course the bed and cab...as soon as items come back, I will photo journal it. 

 

Still need to purchase running boards and a tailgate.

 

Big thanks out to Mark Wyman at Marksfinds4lessvintagecarpartsandmore.com by far the largest NOS catalog I could find...

 

Until then, enjoy the photos...

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IMG_4628.jpghi - the master and wheel cylinders were new - corroded fast. that drag link was nos wish i another - truck is looking amazing

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Installed - refurbed Master Brake, refurbed Generator, refurbed Starter, Air Cleaner, Carb Linkage, and E-Brake handle...(yes I know the distributor is still upside down and yes, the E-brake handle will be the only Nickle showing after paint.)

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Looking good. :) are the pins in your driveshaft tight? one of mine was loose, I tried electroplating the pin to tighten it, but it didn't last. I realized based on the part number and what I think is a date code it likely isn't the original, and from a '40. so just got one from a '37 with tight pins and the right part number at least.  I cleaned it up installed it a few months ago. and so far so good.  

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In the photo you can see one pin is missing....that side of the drive shaft had a broken cover with no gasket and was missing 2 needle bearings in one cup, while the other side with the gasket, had not been off in many years, had hard and solid fiber bond grease. The pin from the side with the gasket was easy to slide out, the pin without the gasket had to be pressed out....💪

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Yup, I thought since you only showed one pin in the pic it might be that way. the pins should be tight. in my case the joint with the loose pin was completely disintegrated. apparently the loose pin let the shaft slam back and fourth hard enough that one of the balls actually broke. then all the needle bearings came out... it wasn't pretty. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cool, thanks.👍 yeah I don't have one, just a rod bent with washers and a cotter pin. maybe its why the throttle is stiffer than I would expect.😂 no problem with the fuzziness. my Samsung gets just as confused...  

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👍Maybe not fun but important.😂 on mine the pre-made lines from the local auto parts store were used , with two shorter ones joined to make the long ones. while it works and avoided having to do the flares,  not as neat as custom made.  

 

so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct  Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is  919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely.   

thanks,

Bill.

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2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct  Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is  919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely.   

thanks,

Bill.

 

Hey Bill, seems to me it was a 928....just from memory, I never did take a photo of the part number...when my rebuilder and I retentioned the springs we only needed the part number to ensure we had the correct finger release springs....sorry.

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Thanks much Alan , 👍 that seems right. I found a list of the  models from Borg & Beck for 1939, a 919 has the arms at 2-3/8. the 928 at 2-5/32. which explains why I always had too much free play in the clutch I think. 
I made a shim that goes under the throw-out bearing to bring it within spec. works for now but will keep an eye out for a 928.

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29 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said:

Not happy with all of them, but for now will do....may go back later and redo the fuel line and the passenger front brake lines....

2E4879DA-9A2D-4E06-A250-6DD2DF9EF8D1.jpegYour brake/fuel  lines look great :) better than mine, that's for sure.:D 

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If you get air in that circle, it will be hard to get out.

 

Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates.

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image.thumb.png.1c897b7a76cd0ec1dd5022c8632b5e8f.png These two, 905 and 919, are interchangeable.

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The Hollander says the '38-42 RC etc. takes a "91" which is a 905, 919, 920 or 948.

 

It is a 10A7 = 10" plate.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

If you get air in that circle, it will be hard to get out.

Good point. 😂 the original was flatter, probably. I still have it, I'll find and post a photo. it had a much tighter circle. I think its important though, since the master cyl is mounted to the bell housing and moves with the engine, whereas the brake line distribution block is mounted to the frame. it could flex quite a bit... 

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3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates.

Thanks much for this Spinnyhill, its just what I was looking for. it seems 919 is the right one after all 

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