Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project

[Alan Cutler]

5 minutes ago, countrytravler said:

My bad. Some Dodge wheels have the guide hole.

 

No worries buddy!

[Alan Cutler]

So you know, I have on it now the '36 LC 16"X6" wheel, with 16" x 6.5" tires...1/4" on each side overlap on the bead...

[38rcdodge]

21 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:

Thanks Dave,

 

This chart is for '36 - '40 (LC through VC) 1/2 tons.

 

So now I have no idea on these rims I have...are they aftermarket? Passenger Car?

It wouldn't surprise me if they are original, and just not listed in the parts books. it would be interesting to see Plymouth car wheel options. If they have date codes that would also be a clue. but I am not aware if they did that, or where they are if so. 

And I have the guide pins too, so not just a Plymouth thing.

This wheel is strange though, I've never seen one with the hubcap clips mounted like that. they are usually in line with the guide pin holes. so that one I'd suspect is for something else.

[Alan Cutler]

For sure its truly puzzling...

[38rcdodge]

Yup the puzzles and mysteries never seem to end.  it just makes these trucks that much more interesting. mine had 15x5 wheels on it, definitely not original. I'm guessing mid or late 50's. they still had a hole for the guide pin though. I'm glad somebody didn't just grind the pins off so other wheels will fit. I'm sure it was common. 

[Alan Cutler]

On 4/5/2020 at 4:32 PM, Surf City '38 said:

Gremlins to date...

 

1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting

2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting

3) Leaking brake lines all four corners

4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug)

5) Incorrect carb. kit

6) Non-operational fuel gauge

7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge

😎 Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance

 

And still finding new ones every time I go out and test drive....the joy of our hobby!

 

1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting - Fixed

2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting - Fixed

3) Leaking brake lines all four corners - Fixed

4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug) - Fixed

5) Incorrect carb. kit - Fixed

6) Non-operational fuel gauge - Fixed

7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge - Fixed

8. Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance - Fixed

 

NEW - Clutch does not fully release, and clutch is fully adjusted out....seams as if either the throw out bearing is not wide enough or the clutch fingers are not long enough....effectively even with a fully adjusted pedal I need about another 1" to fully release....too much grinding.

 

 

 

[38rcdodge]

 

   I had this same problem with the clutch. I ended up making a spacer that goes under the throw out bearing, to make it come out a little further. I originally assumed somebody put the wrong pressure plate in, but it is correct.     

Hopefully you have the right pressure plate.

It could  be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact.

Edited April 27, 2020 by 38rcdodge
errors (see edit history)

[Alan Cutler]

11 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

It could  be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact.

 

Could be:

1) Incorrect new pressure plate, incorrect new throw out bearing or both

2) Worn out clutch shaft bushing

3) Worn Fork arm/sleeve

 

The fun continues...

[38rcdodge]

Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing  where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there.     I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad.  mine has significantly  more wear. 

According to this a   919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. 

On 4/21/2019 at 7:43 PM, Spinneyhill said:

 

 

Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates.

These two, 905 and 919, are interchangeable.

 

The Hollander says the '38-42 RC etc. takes a "91" which is a 905, 919, 920 or 948.

 

It is a 10A7 = 10" plate.

Edited April 27, 2020 by 38rcdodge
errors (see edit history)

[Alan Cutler]

2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing  where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there.     I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad.  mine has significantly  more wear. 

According to this a   919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. 

 

Sleeve was fine as well as the fork...I will pull it out later this week....

[38rcdodge]

 

 Sounds like fun. its not the most difficult job.  I'll take a guess its the wrong pressure plate.  I think you can see the number on it through the inspection hole in the bell housing, without removing it, but would  need to take out  the lower toe board. 

I wonder if it would be possible to adjust the pressure plate arms out a little further than specified to make up for wear. I'm tempted to experiment with it next time I have mine out. I do have a little bit of clutch chatter, so will need to at some point. 

[Alan Cutler]

Fingers cannot be adjusted to be longer, only more tension and less tension....

 

I'll have it up on the lift, so not too bad of a job. Always fun...

[38rcdodge]

Ahh That's nice having a lift. And you have an extra input shaft, for aligning the clutch when reinstalling. so you don't have to disassemble your trans in order to reinstall. like some people.  

That makes sense about the arms. . I just know they all have to be adjusted evenly. I only thought its a possibility because in the shop manual they show adjusting them with feeler gauges. 

   Good luck on the fun. it will be interesting to see what you discover. 

 

[countrytravler]

from 2015?

[Alan Cutler]

Problem resolved,

 

1) 10" Chevy clutch plates are too thick, Duh!...

2) Having a real tight pilot bushing...

 

Shaved the disk on the fly wheel planer and stretched the pilot bushing with my spare input shaft...shifts like butter now!!!! 

 

Thanks for the help Dave and Jack H. 👍

Edited May 23, 2020 by Surf City '38 (see edit history)

[Alan Cutler]

Hanging tin....finally found my roundtoit. 😂

[Alan Cutler]

Been awhile, thought some folks could use some inspiration for the 2021 Show Circuit...coming soon to a field near you, get those baby out and start dolling them up...I am.

 

Also doing some touch up work...Wiper, Crank Cover Emblem, Window Regulators, Running Board Repairs, Choke & Throttle Cable Repairs...

 

Cheers Everyone!

[Alan Cutler]

Done!! 

 

Took first place in its first Concours d'Elegance!! 95/100...

 

Next stop...AACA Special Western - Phoenix in Nov., then to the Western in Vegas, March '22.

Edited August 16, 2021 by Alan Cutler (see edit history)

[countrytravler]

5 hours ago, Alan Cutler said:

Done!! 

 

Took first place in its first Concours d'Elegance!! 95/100...

 

Next stop...AACA Special Western - Phoenix in Nov., then to the Western in Vegas, March '22.

Wow!!

that is so cool!!

 

 

[Dodgedude37]

On 8/12/2018 at 11:57 AM, Alan Cutler said:

Exhaust pipe....and I can not remember for the life of me the other purpose....

Access to fuel pump.

[Alan Cutler]

We won a first Junior @ the Special Western Fall National in Tempe, AZ....So happy.

 

 

[vtpete38]

Hi Alan,

 

I just found this thread. From your build card it looks like your 1938 DB RC was built the day after mine.

 

I'm in the process of pulling my engine. According to my build card it's original to the truck. I noticed the front engine mount is developing a crack, so as long as I'm dealing with that I thought I'd freshened it up.

 

I'm in Vermont. I just hope I can get the engine hoist in and out before the snow. Otherwise it's going to be a very long winter project.

 

Pete

 

[Alan Cutler]

4 minutes ago, vtpete38 said:

Hi Alan,

 

I just found this thread. From your build card it looks like your 1938 DB RC was built the day after mine.

 

I'm in the process of pulling my engine. According to my build card it's original to the truck. I noticed the front engine mount is developing a crack, so as long as I'm dealing with that I thought I'd freshened it up.

 

I'm in Vermont. I just hope I can get the engine hoist in and out before the snow. Otherwise it's going to be a very long winter project.

 

Pete

 

Welcome to the club Pete...What started out as a engine refresh, ended up being an entire frame off restoration...7 years later.

 

Worth every minute of frustration, fabrication, exhaustion, and euphoria when its was all done, picking up an AACA First Place at its first National Event was worth it all...

 

Cheers!

 

[countrytravler]

JUST WOW!!!!!!!

[countrytravler]

Hi Allen

Is this correct for the 37 38?

Do you have pictures of the fuel carb linkage set up on the fire wall?

Radiator number?

Have a guy restoring a 37 Ply pickup to stock.

Thanks so much

Dave

 

[Alan Cutler]

On 10/14/2022 at 3:42 PM, countrytravler said:

Hi Allen

Is this correct for the 37 38?

Do you have pictures of the fuel carb linkage set up on the fire wall?

Radiator number?

Have a guy restoring a 37 Ply pickup to stock.

Thanks so much

Dave

 

Hi Dave, 

 

Yes, that is correct for the spare hold down.

 

Looks like a heart, and has three nipples on each point that fits in the centering holes of the spare wheel. Locks the wheel in place.

 

Radiator number is 739302 ('37) or 770351 ('38)

 

Here is a shot of Vic's linkage, I could not find one of mine.

 

[countrytravler]

On 10/16/2022 at 10:09 AM, Alan Cutler said:

Hi Dave, 

 

Yes, that is correct for the spare hold down.

 

Looks like a heart, and has three nipples on each point that fits in the centering holes of the spare wheel. Locks the wheel in place.

 

Radiator number is 739302 ('37) or 770351 ('38)

 

Here is a shot of Vic's linkage, I could not find one of mine.

 

The customer and I thank you again for your help.

Thanks

Dave

[Alan Cutler]

Its an honor just to be nominated, blessed.

 

 

[Alan Cutler]

Files being sent to Jim....🙏

[nearchoclatetown]

Congrats on being nominated for a Nat'l award. As you said being nominated is the prize. Love the color. 

[countrytravler]

Hi Allen

Can you take a picture of the left rear light-plate bracket? Also the carb linkage.

Have a customer restoring a 37 Plymouth truck.

Thanks again

Dave

[Alan Cutler]

1 hour ago, countrytravler said:

Hi Allen

Can you take a picture of the left rear light-plate bracket? Also the carb linkage.

Have a customer restoring a 37 Plymouth truck.

Thanks again

Dave

Hi partner,

 

You talking about the combo tail light and license plate bracket?

On the Carb linkage, from the pedal to the carb linkage or choke and manual throttle linkage? 

 

[countrytravler]

8 minutes ago, Alan Cutler said:

Hi partner,

 

You talking about the combo tail light and license plate bracket?

On the Carb linkage, from the pedal to the carb linkage or choke and manual throttle linkage? 

 

Hi

From the bracket bolted to the engine to the carb.

Yes on the combo. Is that one or two parts?

Thanks

Dave

[Alan Cutler]

The linkage is actually bolted to the top of the Bell House. This represents a Carter BB1 carburetor connection. The tail light bracket is one piece that bolts to the frame, with the bottom half used to connect the lic. plate. the light itself mounts through two studs off the back of the light through the bracket with lock washers and nuts. 1/2" 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2023 by Alan Cutler (see edit history)

[Alan Cutler]

[Alan Cutler]

Best I can do, had to pull this from my Dropbox, currently in Portland and not in the shop for a few weeks.

[countrytravler]

Thank you, sir.

Helps a lot.

Dave

[totolili]

Hi Alan,

 

beautiful truck!!!

 

I tried to follow your posts as well as Vic's . I'm restoring a 38 and currently place/measuring/trying to see how it all fits as my 38 came with a 56 plymouth engine and I thought the rest were somehow original (except for the rear fenders - fiberglass).

 

I do have pictures from prior to taking it apart but not 100%.

 

I was working on the 2 piece that goes below the firewall. They looked to be original and the bolt holes match but some are harder to fit but I don't think the truck frame is bent. maybe I have a 37 pieces???

 

But my main question is about the clutch, brake, steering rod and gas pedal seals.

• Gas Pedal grommet fits in the hole but the actual hole is too big where the shaft goes thru. I saw yours and it looks like an accordion style. I bought my seals from Vic's Dodge and others sell the same type. Which is right?
• Clutch and Brake seals: When I ordered them, I didn't know the center hole would be so small and the rubber is not stretchable. Besides, the pedals are too wide. So, where do they go???
• Steering seal. The one I have again is similar that everyone is selling for 35-39 or so but my shaft is much larger and also why is this not shaped like a grommet? what am i missing?

if you have any pictures of your seals, I would appreciate. I won't use the starter rod as it will be push button instead.

 

Thanks!

Anatole

[totolili]

On 8/12/2018 at 11:26 AM, Alan Cutler said:

 

Here you go, I’ve even included the side splash guards that go vertical along the inside fender, notice the passenger side is riveted and the driver side was bolted....

hi Alan,

 

my 38 has the splash guards and like you, one was bolted and one was rivetted. I don't have these engine guards and small center piece. Do you have a picture as where they go and what are the protecting? 

Thanks,

Anatole

[Alan Cutler]

55 minutes ago, totolili said:

Hi Alan,

 

beautiful truck!!!

 

I tried to follow your posts as well as Vic's . I'm restoring a 38 and currently place/measuring/trying to see how it all fits as my 38 came with a 56 plymouth engine and I thought the rest were somehow original (except for the rear fenders - fiberglass).

 

I do have pictures from prior to taking it apart but not 100%.

 

I was working on the 2 piece that goes below the firewall. They looked to be original and the bolt holes match but some are harder to fit but I don't think the truck frame is bent. maybe I have a 37 pieces???

 

But my main question is about the clutch, brake, steering rod and gas pedal seals.

• Gas Pedal grommet fits in the hole but the actual hole is too big where the shaft goes thru. I saw yours and it looks like an accordion style. I bought my seals from Vic's Dodge and others sell the same type. Which is right?
• Clutch and Brake seals: When I ordered them, I didn't know the center hole would be so small and the rubber is not stretchable. Besides, the pedals are too wide. So, where do they go???
• Steering seal. The one I have again is similar that everyone is selling for 35-39 or so but my shaft is much larger and also why is this not shaped like a grommet? what am i missing?

if you have any pictures of your seals, I would appreciate. I won't use the starter rod as it will be push button instead.

 

Thanks!

Anatole

Thanks Anatole, best to call Steve Flockstra, at Dodge Central of Michigan. If you have a "Frankenstein" truck he would have all years of seals from the mid 1929's through the 1971's

If you send him a picture of what you have, he will be able to match up the correct parts.

 

https://dcmclassics.com/41-parts-by-year