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Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project


Alan Cutler
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So you know, I have on it now the '36 LC 16"X6" wheel, with 16" x 6.5" tires...1/4" on each side overlap on the bead...

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21 hours ago, Surf City '38 said:

Thanks Dave,

 

This chart is for '36 - '40 (LC through VC) 1/2 tons.

 

So now I have no idea on these rims I have...are they aftermarket? Passenger Car?

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It wouldn't surprise me if they are original, and just not listed in the parts books. it would be interesting to see Plymouth car wheel options. If they have date codes that would also be a clue. but I am not aware if they did that, or where they are if so. 

And I have the guide pins too, so not just a Plymouth thing.

This wheel is strange though, I've never seen one with the hubcap clips mounted like that. they are usually in line with the guide pin holes. so that one I'd suspect is for something else.

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Yup the puzzles and mysteries never seem to end. :D it just makes these trucks that much more interesting. mine had 15x5 wheels on it, definitely not original. I'm guessing mid or late 50's. they still had a hole for the guide pin though. I'm glad somebody didn't just grind the pins off so other wheels will fit. I'm sure it was common. 

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On 4/5/2020 at 4:32 PM, Surf City '38 said:

Gremlins to date...

 

1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting

2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting

3) Leaking brake lines all four corners

4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug)

5) Incorrect carb. kit

6) Non-operational fuel gauge

7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge

😎 Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance

 

And still finding new ones every time I go out and test drive....the joy of our hobby!

 

1) Leaking and broken brass oil pressure line fitting - Fixed

2) Leaking and broken brass fuel line fitting - Fixed

3) Leaking brake lines all four corners - Fixed

4) Leaking expansion plug (freeze plug) - Fixed

5) Incorrect carb. kit - Fixed

6) Non-operational fuel gauge - Fixed

7) Non-operational engine temperature gauge - Fixed

8. Leaking diaphragm in the timing vacuum advance - Fixed

 

NEW - Clutch does not fully release, and clutch is fully adjusted out....seams as if either the throw out bearing is not wide enough or the clutch fingers are not long enough....effectively even with a fully adjusted pedal I need about another 1" to fully release....too much grinding.

 

 

 

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   I had this same problem with the clutch. I ended up making a spacer that goes under the throw out bearing, to make it come out a little further. I originally assumed somebody put the wrong pressure plate in, but it is correct.     

Hopefully you have the right pressure plate.

It could  be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact.

Edited by 38rcdodge
errors (see edit history)
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11 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

It could  be wear on the clutch release fork arms, and throw out bearing sleeve, where the two make contact.

 

Could be:

1) Incorrect new pressure plate, incorrect new throw out bearing or both

2) Worn out clutch shaft bushing

3) Worn Fork arm/sleeve

 

The fun continues...

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Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing  where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there.     I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad.  mine has significantly  more wear. 

According to this a   919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. 

On 4/21/2019 at 7:43 PM, Spinneyhill said:

 

 

Not sure what model trucks you gent's have, so here is the info. I have on clutch friction plates.

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image.thumb.png.a862790dfc098824bef1a9ffd66b8645.png

image.thumb.png.67ce645e32515ea688ef57c1cbfc1495.png

image.thumb.png.1c897b7a76cd0ec1dd5022c8632b5e8f.png These two, 905 and 919, are interchangeable.

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The Hollander says the '38-42 RC etc. takes a "91" which is a 905, 919, 920 or 948.

 

It is a 10A7 = 10" plate.

Edited by 38rcdodge
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2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

Yes I forgot about the clutch shaft bushing. that could also cause it. I also had a problem with wear in the bell housing  where the clutch shaft rides on the right side. And had to make a bushing. I don't think it ever had one there.     I remember you showed a pic of the wear on the throw out bearing sleeve in an earlier post, it didn't look to bad.  mine has significantly  more wear. 

According to this a   919 pressure plate is correct, and 905 920 or 948 will work. 

 

Sleeve was fine as well as the fork...I will pull it out later this week....

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 Sounds like fun. its not the most difficult job.  I'll take a guess its the wrong pressure plate.  I think you can see the number on it through the inspection hole in the bell housing, without removing it, but would  need to take out  the lower toe board. 

I wonder if it would be possible to adjust the pressure plate arms out a little further than specified to make up for wear. I'm tempted to experiment with it next time I have mine out. I do have a little bit of clutch chatter, so will need to at some point. 

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Fingers cannot be adjusted to be longer, only more tension and less tension....

 

I'll have it up on the lift, so not too bad of a job. Always fun...

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Ahh That's nice having a lift. And you have an extra input shaft, for aligning the clutch when reinstalling. so you don't have to disassemble your trans in order to reinstall. like some people. :D 

That makes sense about the arms. . I just know they all have to be adjusted evenly. I only thought its a possibility because in the shop manual they show adjusting them with feeler gauges. 

   Good luck on the fun. it will be interesting to see what you discover. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Problem resolved,

 

1) 10" Chevy clutch plates are too thick, Duh!...

2) Having a real tight pilot bushing...

 

Shaved the disk on the fly wheel planer and stretched the pilot bushing with my spare input shaft...shifts like butter now!!!! 

 

Thanks for the help Dave and Jack H. 👍

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...

Been awhile, thought some folks could use some inspiration for the 2021 Show Circuit...coming soon to a field near you, get those baby out and start dolling them up...I am.

 

Also doing some touch up work...Wiper, Crank Cover Emblem, Window Regulators, Running Board Repairs, Choke & Throttle Cable Repairs...

 

Cheers Everyone!

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  • 6 months later...

Done!! 

 

Took first place in its first Concours d'Elegance!! 95/100...

 

Next stop...AACA Special Western - Phoenix in Nov., then to the Western in Vegas, March '22.

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Edited by Alan Cutler (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

Hi Alan,

 

I just found this thread. From your build card it looks like your 1938 DB RC was built the day after mine.

 

I'm in the process of pulling my engine. According to my build card it's original to the truck. I noticed the front engine mount is developing a crack, so as long as I'm dealing with that I thought I'd freshened it up.

 

I'm in Vermont. I just hope I can get the engine hoist in and out before the snow. Otherwise it's going to be a very long winter project.

 

Pete

 

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4 minutes ago, vtpete38 said:

Hi Alan,

 

I just found this thread. From your build card it looks like your 1938 DB RC was built the day after mine.

 

I'm in the process of pulling my engine. According to my build card it's original to the truck. I noticed the front engine mount is developing a crack, so as long as I'm dealing with that I thought I'd freshened it up.

 

I'm in Vermont. I just hope I can get the engine hoist in and out before the snow. Otherwise it's going to be a very long winter project.

 

Pete

 

Welcome to the club Pete...What started out as a engine refresh, ended up being an entire frame off restoration...7 years later.

 

Worth every minute of frustration, fabrication, exhaustion, and euphoria when its was all done, picking up an AACA First Place at its first National Event was worth it all...

 

Cheers!

 

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  • 8 months later...

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