Surf City '38

Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project

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Bell housing casting date, 8-5-37, aligns well will build card final assembly of 10-6-37

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On 8/12/2018 at 5:28 PM, Surf City '38 said:

Ok Folks finished up the master cylinder rebuild...Not much happening the rest of the summer, waiting for the engine blueprinting, vulcanized rubber, emblem rebuilds and of course the bed and cab...as soon as items come back, I will photo journal it. 

 

Still need to purchase running boards and a tailgate.

 

Big thanks out to Mark Wyman at Marksfinds4lessvintagecarpartsandmore.com by far the largest NOS catalog I could find...

 

Until then, enjoy the photos...

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IMG_4628.jpghi - the master and wheel cylinders were new - corroded fast. that drag link was nos wish i another - truck is looking amazing

 

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One engine installed, with a little persuasion from my 4-ton buddy,  and some help with mount orientations from Vic.

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Installed - refurbed Master Brake, refurbed Generator, refurbed Starter, Air Cleaner, Carb Linkage, and E-Brake handle...(yes I know the distributor is still upside down and yes, the E-brake handle will be the only Nickle showing after paint.)

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Looking good. :) are the pins in your driveshaft tight? one of mine was loose, I tried electroplating the pin to tighten it, but it didn't last. I realized based on the part number and what I think is a date code it likely isn't the original, and from a '40. so just got one from a '37 with tight pins and the right part number at least.  I cleaned it up installed it a few months ago. and so far so good.  

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In the photo you can see one pin is missing....that side of the drive shaft had a broken cover with no gasket and was missing 2 needle bearings in one cup, while the other side with the gasket, had not been off in many years, had hard and solid fiber bond grease. The pin from the side with the gasket was easy to slide out, the pin without the gasket had to be pressed out....💪

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Yup, I thought since you only showed one pin in the pic it might be that way. the pins should be tight. in my case the joint with the loose pin was completely disintegrated. apparently the loose pin let the shaft slam back and fourth hard enough that one of the balls actually broke. then all the needle bearings came out... it wasn't pretty. 

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 Yup they must be  hard to find, I don't recognize it,   so must be missing on mine... where does it go? my first guess is part of the throttle linkage.? 

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Posted (edited)

It is called a bell crank ball joint, it's the swivel transition portion from the throttle pedal bell housing pivot to the carburetor throttle rod.....sorry for the fuzzy shot, iPhones get confused on the focal point sometimes... 

 

 

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Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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Cool, thanks.👍 yeah I don't have one, just a rod bent with washers and a cotter pin. maybe its why the throttle is stiffer than I would expect.😂 no problem with the fuzziness. my Samsung gets just as confused...  

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Fuel and front break line double flare day.....been trying to avoid this (not my favorite process...)

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👍Maybe not fun but important.😂 on mine the pre-made lines from the local auto parts store were used , with two shorter ones joined to make the long ones. while it works and avoided having to do the flares,  not as neat as custom made.  

 

so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct  Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is  919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely.   

thanks,

Bill.

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2 hours ago, 38rcdodge said:

so I was wondering, since you just did your clutch recently , do you know the correct  Borg & Beck model number of the pressure plate?. mine is  919, which I'm thinking may be wrong, the arms don't seem to come out far enough. it works, but barely.   

thanks,

Bill.

 

Hey Bill, seems to me it was a 928....just from memory, I never did take a photo of the part number...when my rebuilder and I retentioned the springs we only needed the part number to ensure we had the correct finger release springs....sorry.

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Not happy with all of them, but for now will do....may go back later and redo the fuel line and the passenger front brake lines....

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Few more shots showing, horn, fan, pulley, final adjusted e-brake assembly, and starter and gas pedals....

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Thanks much Alan , 👍 that seems right. I found a list of the  models from Borg & Beck for 1939, a 919 has the arms at 2-3/8. the 928 at 2-5/32. which explains why I always had too much free play in the clutch I think. 
I made a shim that goes under the throw-out bearing to bring it within spec. works for now but will keep an eye out for a 928.

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