Treating Bare Metal

[Roger Frazee]

I recently acquired a rust-free '63 Corvair and need advice on keeping it rust free until I am ready to paint it.

 

The previous owner had sanded the entire car.  Most of the paint is still there but there are several palm-size bare metal spots where the sander took off too much paint.  Tiny specs of surface rust are beginning to form on the bare spots.

 

I am tempted to remove the surface rust with a sander or wire brush, and spray the bare spots with primer from a rattle can.

 

I have not experience with body work and I don't want to create bigger problems through my ignorance.  Is there a better way to handle these bare metal areas?

[nickelroadster]

Rattle can primer will not protect barer metal.  Eastwood makes a product to protect bare metal, the name of which escapes me right now but if you were to call them up, Iam sure you could get it.

[Roger Frazee]

Thanks nickelroadster.   I found Eastwood Metal Protect online.  Is this the stuff you were referring to?

 

 

 

Edited March 16, 2018 by Roger Frazee (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Another thing you can do is primer the car then spray with clear coat. The clear coat seals the primer. There may be other sealer products available but that is one I have done. When you go to finish the car just sand the primer and reprime.

 

Friend of mine did this with a whole car. Did the bodywork, sprayed with black primer, then clear, and drove it all summer. Next winter took it into the shop and did the paint job. No rust at all.

Edited March 16, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Epoxy primer is waterproof and will seal the metal permanently. When you're ready to paint, just scuff and top it with the products of your choice. It's relatively easy to spray and can be tinted to help with your base coat later.

[JustDave]

Go to your nearest automotive paint supply and buy a bottle of metal prep and a aerosol ca of 2in1 primer,follow directions on the metal prep,use a  scotch brute pad and. Scuff the rust till it’s shiny metal,wipe down with cold water then a good per cleaner also aerosol then prime the spots,you should be good for several months if kept inside,   Dave

[Frank DuVal]

Roger, are you storing this car inside (environmental controlled or shed?), stored outside in the east or want to drive it while getting it ready for paint?

 

Rust free? What western state did you get it from?

 

I use epoxy primer (PPG DP series) and can drive them while working on them. I hear good things about SPI, Southern Polyurethanes, but have not yet used any of their products. The best part of epoxy primer is no need to remove it before you continue your work, if applied to bare metal to start. Yes, you will need to remove the primer sprayed over existing paint. 

[Roger Frazee]

Thanks to all for the expert advice.  I will clean up the bare spots and treat them with epoxy primer.  It sounds like that will prevent rust issues while I do the necessary mechanical work and cleanup underneath the car.

The car ('63 Corvair Spyder) has been off the road since 1974 and had been stored in the previous owner's dank basement for many years.  There is no rust, but there is considerable mold on the top and vinyl, all or which will be replaced anyway.  I currently have it in my climate controlled garage.

I drove the car on and off of the trailer when I brought it home, and removed the engine last week.  It won't be driven again until the restoration is nearly complete.

[AJFord54]

Nice car!

 

Wow - You've even got a spare engine for it in the trunk. 

 

[Janousek]

8 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Roger, are you storing this car inside (environmental controlled or shed?), stored outside in the east or want to drive it while getting it ready for paint?

 

Rust free? What western state did you get it from?

 

I use epoxy primer (PPG DP series) and can drive them while working on them. I hear good things about SPI, Southern Polyurethanes, but have not yet used any of their products. The best part of epoxy primer is no need to remove it before you continue your work, if applied to bare metal to start. Yes, you will need to remove the primer sprayed over existing paint. 

 Frank,  been using SPI epoxy for 10 years now.  I wouldn't use PPG DP40 Lf if it was free.  Before it went lead free it was good stuff though.  Try the SPI,  best customer support, quality, and pricing in the business.  

[nickelroadster]

In answer, yes that is the right product.  You can also use the epoxy primers that everyone id talking about but realize they are more expensive but oh so much better.