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Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87


38Buick 80C

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I got motivated by the frame being done to do a small item i have been putting off. I color sanded the valve cover got the two runs out and a bit of the orange peel. I'm happy with the result. I didn't want to go too far with it. Need to snap a couple photos. I will hit the push rod cover tomorrow and snap a couple.

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Went to look at the frame, looks better. They measured it and it's good but a couple things are but wonky looking to me. But gonna move forward. PXL_20230307_142107050.jpg.4206aa488640890c304fc58db05e2e46.jpg

 

It was still in the trailer so we agreed on a plan and it was in my garage a few hours later

PXL_20230307_213855812.jpg.a421a670d7530454782c044ff406bbfa.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Another short progress session PXL_20230308_215904057.jpg.b491333d403d354dd89cb0bb0f004265.jpg

PXL_20230308_215910222.jpg.247d36756844137c44f690bc2533bcb2.jpg

PXL_20230308_215917013.jpg.75b4b4125f6207e66f8c28a7e979208d.jpg

 

Trying to get the rear axle back to the shop by Monday at the latest. 1. I need it out of the way (wife wants he collectable back in the garage ASAP) and 2. They are gonna replace all the bearings and generally refresh it.

 

The parts from the previous post have already made their way to the powder coating place and today's batch will go in the AM.

 

Tomorrow hopefully will finish the brake disassembly and maybe, just maybe I will get to start on the front suspension (really want to flip the chassis around to be nose out for that though.

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I had a helper to help me swap directions in the garage.

PXL_20230309_212330042_MP.jpg.1cfcf51176d29af16ab40ded3d89a3c0.jpg

 

I need to finish disassembly of the rear brakes so I can take the axel off the jack stands. Then I can use the stands for the front of the frame.

 

I'd really like to be ready to paint this thing by end of the weekend. Aside from the disassembly which I should knock out tomorrow night since I will have more than an hour, I need to clean off some remaining undercoating and a few spots of 85 years of accumulated road grime.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Some goodies arrived....

 

We will see how I did as none of this was actually for a '38... But same engine and close years that SHOULD be the same... We will soon find out... If not I have some stainless lines to be sold off soon... 😁

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5 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Some goodies arrived....

 

We will see how I did as none of this was actually for a '38... But same engine and close years that SHOULD be the same... We will soon find out... If not I have some stainless lines to be sold off soon... 😁

 

Guess it would help if I posted a picture of the goodies...

PXL_20230310_203955830.jpg.8788686fa0cf574ff8a9e7a53c86f810.jpg

 

My Eastwood Chassis black paint arrived today too.

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13 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

OK so first thing you need to know.

Hmmmm, looks like they are out-of stock at Rare Parts.  OTOH, Cars appears to have the small series king pin set that should work for my Century...

 

image.png.bc94fc128ff0724902d723a342d97610.png

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Made some progress last night and today

 

@EmTeet this is for you.

 

So I worked on disassembly of the front suspension.

 

First is to knock out the pin holding the king pin in place, look for the end that is not a perfect circle and drive from that side.

PXL_20230318_153936713.jpg.75a2519e05a0cec37cab7c760d3af9b3.jpg

 

I had to destroy the cap to knock the king pin out. PXL_20230318_154232277.jpg.cfc490b05ee74fe8aa8891dbeffc9c02.jpg

 

Same process with the lower knuckle

PXL_20230318_160519672_MP.jpg.fa947ff9344c79a1dcffeb5bea8775a0.jpg

 

These bushings need to be removed and the new ones pressed in to place. For all bushings (King pins or knuckles) once they are pressed into place they need to be honed by a machine shop to the correct dimension. This is critical, learned this with the 80C.

 

So next stop for my suspension is the machine shop to have this done.

 

PXL_20230318_164808498.jpg

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I struggled with the other side of the suspension. Neither set pin would come out. Not would the one year one series bearing things on the lower control arms.

 

I decided this wasn't big enough PXL_20230318_172130304.jpg.22936a0461e728fa2dd6b90a5afd9dd1.jpg

 

So I went to Lowe's and got the proper socket.

PXL_20230318_172138017.jpg.9c48702a03bec4ccc1568291759a8ce4.jpg

 

That with the impact gun, made quick work of them.

PXL_20230318_172143663.jpg.9b65d2ad40d7d2f44fd2fc9cca2b8c66.jpg

 

Unfortunately the sledge I bought still didn't free the set pins. I'm going to let the machine shop press them out.

 

I then pulled the wheel seals from the front drums. Along with the bearings.

PXL_20230318_175744272_MP.jpg.8aa9e1a22227c2ef8a7d28d766af7853.jpg

 

 

PXL_20230318_172146130.jpg

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I will need a source for some new dust caps and possibly a lock pin. Anybody have one where i can buy only those on a onesie / twosie basis?

 

The king pins I have came with dust caps but the knuckles did not.

 

thoughts on whether these work?

https://www.mcmaster.com/dust-caps/expansion-plugs-for-castings/

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Frame painting today...well etching primer to start

 

First step was make a paint booth of sorts PXL_20230325_141308933.jpg.84c4a5373d2877e5c68be5cbdec1d8f6.jpg

 

I had some etching primer left from the 80C....that is how I started...that was a mistake... Just didn't spray well and ran out of it too... Made a run to the paint store and got some new etching primer and wow what difference... So easy to spray.

 

Here is the end result. The yellow is the first primer.

PXL_20230325_171238013.jpg.9ab9c7ac2fd521a0a0a8b624e529fc68.jpg

 

Tomorrow afternoon after soccer I hope to spray it black. Using an Eastwood 2K ceramic satin black.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Phew, I relate to the point you made about motivation a couple posts back.  As much fun as the work can be once started, some days it is just hard to start. 

I noticed traces of a green color on your backing plates.  If it helps, the brake backing plates that I took from an unrestored low mileage car had a green tint to them and Skip Boyer shared a couple photos of some NOS backing plates that he had, confirming the coating is zinc chromate.  That is not an EPA friendly coating.  Most people paint the backing plates chassis black to replicate thousands of miles of grease and road grime.  But if you want to go a bit more on the detailed route, I compared the zinc chromate samples to the Sherwin Williams color chart and found a close, but not exact match with the color SW 6177, Softened Green. I’ve seen this color on older machinery, possibly military and aircraft. The coating is very thin and will scratch off if rubbed to hard with a putty knife or with steel wool.


 

IMG_0051.jpg

IMG_6349.JPG

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4 hours ago, kgreen said:

the coating is zinc chromate.  That is not an EPA friendly coating. 

No danger to you or the environment and the plating company knows how to handle.  Same plating on grade 8 fasteners.  Painting will serve you well since the car will probably lead a sheltered life.

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3 hours ago, old-tank said:

No danger to you or the environment and the plating company knows how to handle.  Same plating on grade 8 fasteners.  Painting will serve you well since the car will probably lead a sheltered life.

i had them powder coated satin black

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Very pleased with how my second coat turned out.

 

Spent a bunch of time with handheld LED lights to make sure I had good coverage throughout the entire chassis.

 

Final coat I put on very light to get a very flat satin coat.

 

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PXL_20230401_201035859.jpg.4d7a04790adb937f2f0586273d743ff2.jpg

 

Monday I should have everything back from the powder coating place with the exception of the items that went to the machine shop to have the bushings installed. I talked to 5  Points and I should have my knee action shocks back in about 2 to 3 weeks. Hopefully that will line up with machine shop work being powder coated and then I can really go to town on the front suspension.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Guess I should mention why I flattened it out. I was having trouble getting an even finish. I had hot spots of shinier areas. With this thin flatter coat it is very even now.  Thus I am happy. With the body back on and on the show field it will look very nice. 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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The boys' soccer practice was cancelled so I couldn't help but bolt something on.

 

Got these upper shock mounts on

PXL_20230407_004900605.jpg.4d036e5c73fe2e94a73741f43126c452.jpg

 

And the sway bar with brake line brackets.

PXL_20230407_004854844.jpg.a980cc3930e818185f62e7b677377e18.jpg

 

That was the as good as it got.

 

Went to put on the upper control on bumpers... Wrong ones... what I got from Bob's must be for the small series. Thus couldn't put on the lower control arm bummers either. Steele has the correct ones

 

Went to put the rear panhard bar on... No bushings....Steele has them too

 

So placing a Steele order tomorrow

 

Then for giggles I got the rear axle bumpers out. Though they were packaged as a pair... I ended up with two rights...

 

Correct mounted in the bracket

PXL_20230407_004921831.jpg.a2f68cbe2dad53509aad5ab3ff203e19.jpg

 

And incorrect

PXL_20230407_004925889.jpg.108feb8335735c6e16efedc4b90f23d3.jpg

Note the u-bolt won't be able to go through.

 

Steele is great so I will just run over there and they will make it right, but just a ignominious start to bolting stuff back on.

 

Nothing that can't be easily solved thankfully.

 

Probably the universe saying I wasn't meant to really start tonight...😂

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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