oakhurst Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Just purchased a 1915 4 cyl touring car. The horizontally split windshield has a 3/16 gap between the top and bottom glass on thedriver side and a 1/8 overlap on the passenger side. After measuring, the bolt/hinge for the top glass on the driver side is about 1/4 higher than the bolt on the passenger side. The bolts for the lower glass are the same and the lower glass fits great on the bottom. Could the "restorer" have used windshield brackets from two different cars? Also is there supposed to be a gap with a rubber moulding fitted between the two windshields? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Can you post some pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 I will try. New to this an am not sure how to get my pix here. Tomorrow I will try again. Any recs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Junkyard said ya we got one that will work ok. That's how those things happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 13 hours ago, oakhurst said: I will try. New to this an am not sure how to get my pix here. Tomorrow I will try again. Any recs? If you need help posting photos, you can send them to me and I will post them here for you. keiser 31 @ charter . net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Most important for posting pictures is the size. Max is 5 MB I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks, I sent some to keiser31 to see if he can post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Here are the photos.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 This might be a silly suggestion, but have you put a straight edge on the bottom of the glass? Many cars of that era had a rubber flap on the bottom of the top glass to keep the air from coming through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 1. In case previous owner (hopefully) installed safety glass, one pane or the other may not be fully seated or cut unevenly. Or you may be able to shim upper frame somehow. 2. Restoration Supply www.restorationstuff.com definitely has the rubber you need to mate the two, I ordered some from them 15 yrs ago. Downloadable catalog, great people to deal with. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 From what I see it is not the glass but the hinge or frame that is skewed. The side with the gap looks most correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 You need the rubber window strip from Restoration Stuff that Grimy noted. Here is what it looks like on my 1923 McLaughlin Buick. I also have a rubber flap at the bottom of the windshield. I could not tell if you had this or not from the pics you posted. It is available from Home Depot. It is a shower door bottom seal and it fits into a groove at the bottom of the windshield frame. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 I suggest you remove the bracket and chase the threads on the screw and the bottom of the frame. Also check to see that the screw is not too long and can go to full depth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 18 hours ago, Larry Schramm said: This might be a silly suggestion, but have you put a straight edge on the bottom of the glass? Many cars of that era had a rubber flap on the bottom of the top glass to keep the air from coming through. Yes the glass edges are straight. They are just not parallel due to the bolt/hinge on the top glass, driver side is 1/4 inch higher than on the pass side. The windshield brackets are not the same. The brackets appear totally original with no modifications. I think I can modify the lower panel on the pass side so the gap will be consistent. Then I will fit the rubber moulding from Restoration. I will have to check on that bottom flap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 17 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said: I suggest you remove the bracket and chase the threads on the screw and the bottom of the frame. Also check to see that the screw is not too long and can go to full depth. I will check again, but everything went together well. I had to remove the windshields and brackets to save on shipping. The brackets were over 6'2" tall and the shipper wanted more $ if they were not removed. I did not notice the gap prior to taking it apart. Big mistake. However they went back on with no problems, and there is no way anything could have changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 13 hours ago, JFranklin said: From what I see it is not the glass but the hinge or frame that is skewed. The side with the gap looks most correct. I believe you are correct. The space between the hinge/bolts is closer on the pass side, thus the overlap. The brackets are identical except for this difference. Also where the bolts screw into the brackets, there is a wider spot in the casting. The bolt hole appears to be in the original location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) If you can't adjust it out, maybe one new glass cut to fit will fix it? Edited February 12, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Yes, I talked to my glass guy and he says he can grind off 1/8 or so. I will cut the frame prior. Could also replace glass if grinding don't go well. The unevenness of the two panels will not be apparent I believe. 16 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said: If you can't adjust it out, maybe one new glass cut to fit will fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 What is the gap required for that rubber strip Unimogjohn mentioned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Good question. I will have to go to the supplier (Restoration) to get the specs of the rubber strip unless someone here knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Buy the rubber and then adjust the gap. I have used the windshield rubber the model T suppliers sell on all my split windshields. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 There is no adjustment possible. I will grind 1/8 inch off the pass side of the bottom glass just to get the gap even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) To adjust the frame either find the hinge or glass problem or you could remove the glass and measure the frame bottom to bottom glass and adjust from there. Edited February 13, 2017 by JFranklin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STUDE48 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hello, Afriend and my self are currently working on a survior SF 4cyl 7pass touring. The original plate glass windshield was beveled where the glass metin the middle with no gasket. The upper window was the outer segment. Beveled the 45 degrees from inside to outside. I can probably find a parts book drawing if you need it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Finally figured it out. The small bracket on the top glass, pass side had moved down about 1/4 inch. We adjusted it yesterday and both pieces of glass are now parallel. Can't see how I missed this before. Now onto clutch problems. I recall seeing a thread about a fellow in Orange CA who redid the leather. I am looking to contact him or someone else about this issue. i will start a new thread. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Here he is. JoeBob Knaak -- 714/633-9736 for leather cone clutch reline/repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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