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Everything posted by STUDE48

  1. Did this body sell? I have found a willing chassis.
  2. Best I have been able to figure out is that it is for valve box ventilation. Along with the slots front and rear. My 20 special six and the parts motors are all the same. So I assume that the hole is not an after thought or latter addition. It also show up in various pictures in the parts and service manuals.
  3. personally use 15w40 for diesel engines. When you buy the conventional oil ,it still has the zinc additive in the oil.
  4. I was able to purchase water pump packing at the local auto parts house felpro still offers it. Felpro number 3203 1/8" 1/4 lb spool
  5. Nice car present well. I suppose that the next question is purely logical but where are you and the car located. The 1916 model year cars retained the cowl mounted fuel tank. Gas cap on the passenger side of the dash.Where the 1917 model year car had a rear mounted fuel tank. Gas cap between spare and body.
  6. Currently finishing up a 17 four, I have a 20 special six, and I just bought an el special six chassis for a speedster project. Glad to help with your question where I can.
  7. I have found the prestige flyer a reference resource for my 1920. Lots of factory photos and data about the model year. There aren't any seat illustrations in the parts books other than the fold up jump seat. The twenty prestige flyer doesn't show a center seat bolster in the rear seat. It also shows bucket seats in the front. On the chummy roadster.
  8. I had new ones cut at my local rubber belting supply house. Look for a industrial rubber supplier. For conveyor belts
  9. Spark is retarded with the lever in the down position. Take up the front floor boards and the toe board. Your car should be equipped with a cone clutch. There are two levers on the frame with springs. Kind of an L shape. They should have a facing material on them. I used several layers of harness leather flesh side (rough) to the disc in the center. Oil as described in the manual. In the clutch section. Secondly release the clutch. Take note if you see the cone or the input of the transmission drop. You may need to rebush the cone. See manual again for disassembly. Big spring in clutch. The transmission bearings are externally adjusted. Turn the inner most nut out to take up slack. Hope this helps. PM me if you need more information.
  10. Scott, how did the solid state regulator work out
  11. Impellers can wear, are worse break, they are cast bronze. You local machine shop should be able to handle making up a new shaft, in stainless steel. I made my own replacement shaft, in my home machine shop.
  12. If you have questions, I just went through the same process on my 1920 special six trans, Ethan
  13. I have been working on a mold to cast new impellers and housings. The shaft is easily machined from 304 stainless. The rest of it is brass on the stuffing boxes. I made a new shaft for my car it works flawlessly.
  14. There is an overland radiator in the parts listed, by durospeed. Here on the forum. Parts for sale. Listing title early car parts
  15. Fpr those with early touring cars or roadster. Engles coach shop on YouTube has a 5 part video series where he repaired and recovered a collapsible buggy top. A lot of the information I found helpful.
  16. If you go to YouTube, look up engles coach shop. He di a 5 part video series on a collapsible buggy top and how to build one without patterns. All the principles are the same.
  17. I will call this afternoon after 4 Pacific standard time
  18. Posted in parts for sale is a 1936 dodge car instrument cluster, 175 plus the ride
  19. I have an nice original instrument panel. It is missing the water temp gauge, got junk drunk and bought it by mistake. Just looking to get my money back, $175 plus the ride.
  20. Same bevel gear used through 1928 GB commander engines as well a big and special six, they are reproduced in brass instead of pot metal. They are about $95. Inquire on the studebaker forum. If memory serves me rbk has them.
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