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Everything posted by STUDE48

  1. I will call this afternoon after 4 Pacific standard time
  2. Posted in parts for sale is a 1936 dodge car instrument cluster, 175 plus the ride
  3. I have an nice original instrument panel. It is missing the water temp gauge, got junk drunk and bought it by mistake. Just looking to get my money back, $175 plus the ride.
  4. Same bevel gear used through 1928 GB commander engines as well a big and special six, they are reproduced in brass instead of pot metal. They are about $95. Inquire on the studebaker forum. If memory serves me rbk has them.
  5. These connect the lamp socket in the reflector to the socket in the headlamp stanchion
  6. Sounds silly but a 37 ce is a 6v positive ground system. I have worked a few cars that cranked normally but didn't start, do the the fact that with the battery hooked up negative ground. Which is conventional after 1956 in American cars. The engine was rotating in a reverse rotation. Which causes a no start condition do to timing and reverse cam rotation.
  7. Is there any interest in new manufacturer head lamp harnesses for 1916 to 1918 series studebakers. I just made a pair for a 1917. Can make more
  8. I have a motor's manual of the era, it didn't cover the 906 c.i.d. v12, it covers transmission and brakes. Thanks
  9. Put a little oil in each cylinder crank it over sounds like you have either dry or worn rings. On my 20 special six I had weak valve springs, the valves were really slow to close from sitting, also they are only lubricated by the fuel mixture passing through them the stems were very gummy and dry from extended sitting pull the side cover and have someone turn the crank and watch the valves open and close. Spray a little spray oil on the stems and retest. I have 75 lbs on my 20 with the starter, I can realize 60lbs by hand and it will start with the crank. Hope this helps
  10. Interested in you other wagner parts, can you send me pictures
  11. I live in Oroville, California. I can help fielding technical questions and problems. I own a 1920 eh special six. I am very familiar with the big and special series engine.
  12. My understanding from a man that owned a hydraulic brake car of this era, is that a power assist stop only occurred in the first half of the pedal travel , and as the pedal is depressed further the system went to a base brake mechanical brake feel. It was backwards of what one may reasonably think.
  13. Thanks Scott that gets me headed the right way. Now out to the shop to start building forms.
  14. One more question is the rear most bow cross section wider than the other bows , and did you note the cross sections, 1 1/2 × 1 ect thanks
  15. Scott, was the width measurement inside or outside width. Also did you happen to measure with a framing square how far inboard the radius came inboard on the bow, these pictures do help thanks again.
  16. I guess I am working by trial and error. Ok special and big six owners how much overhang does your top have at the windshield ahead of the glass, and to the sides. Thanks
  17. I am looking for drawings , profiles, finished dimensions for the top bows for my 1920 Special Six Touring, all help is appreciated. There was nothing that old in the archives at the museum. I have rounded up the irons , bow rest , rear glass windows and frames, and what the best I can tell the correct top clamps. Also if anyone has the curved iron that holds the canvas, and side curtain dimensions as well. Thanks in advance, all help is appreciated
  18. I used the jack once on my 1948 champion, be sure to have a set of chocks for the wheels in the trunk, and if you have an overdrive to lock out the plantery gears so the engine will help hold the car as well. It is best to use a shop style bumper jack, or a rack if available. Must lift the car fairly high to get the tire past the fender and the brake drum in the rear
  19. The 27 starter bendix will interchange as a unit, however the later engine incorporated a vibration damper as well, I do not have a spare old style bendix