Beemon Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 I've been ignoring this issue for a while now but it's cold out and there's a draft and a really annoying whistling noise. Since I plan to have the car painted mid February (the company sure does like to take their time printing W2's), I'm wanting to get this taken care of now. Did cars come from the factory like this? Or is this maybe the case of sagging doors? Both? I know there's a window alignment adjuster because I used it when I installed the passenger window. Also I know it doesn't look like it, but the passenger side (third picture) is also offset. Thanks for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 6, 2017 Share Posted January 6, 2017 Do you have a body manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 No I do not. I didn't even think about that. Looks like I'll need to track one down. Doesn't look like Hometown Buick has that one online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dei Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Ben, While I am posting from the body manual of my 1958 Buick for you I can't imagine the process is that much different to your doors/windows. I will caution however the manual goes on to detail specific models of the '58's so getting a Body Manual for yours would definitely be an asset. It is good that you are looking at aligning the windows/vents as mine were bad like yours to the point if someone slammed the door too hard, the passenger window broke on me twice! When I replaced the top at RM Restorations (years ago) they insisted the top worked properly and they would do all the window alignments. Seeing what little I can of the fender / door gap on your car I'll bet with the adjustments things will look better. Good Luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I've seen worse. It can be made better, though. Though even with a body manual, it is mostly trial and error. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 21 minutes ago, buick5563 said: I've seen worse. It can be made better, though. Though even with a body manual, it is mostly trial and error. On my 47' convertible, error almost won! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Thanks for the page, dei! I didn't know if shims would be involved or not in moving it, but if it's an adjustment screw like the window, then I think I might be making a mountain out of a mole hill with this one. I thought it was funny, because I don't remember seeing any shims in there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dei Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Not having done this personally, like buick5563 stated, can imagine it might be a trial and error type adjustment. Hoped the scan might at least give you an idea of what to do. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. Let us know how you make out. I'm sure you will have great satisfaction by doing this yourself. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) Ben, are you sure the whistling is coming from the door frame to A-pillar joint? I have experienced a similar 'whistle' on occasion with my '56 Chevy. Mine is caused by the shrunken & cracked rubber seal around the vent window glass (the window to door frame seal). From the picture above, I see that yours look a lot like mine, so I suspect that could be the source of your 'whistle' too. An easy test is to seal the gaps on the outside with duct tape (both the vent window seal and A-pillar gap) and then drive the car at highway speed. If the noise is gone, then pull the A-pillar tape and drive. If it's quiet, then pull the vent window tape and drive again. It should be easy to determine the culprit(s)... Edited January 7, 2017 by EmTee typo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 There is a pencil sized gap on both doors where the vent window frame is supposed to seal to the car A pillar. I was messing about with a colleague on campus and when he asked for a pencil to borrow, I stuffed it through the driver side gap no problem.... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 What does the rest of the door alignment look like? Can't just fix one thing here without disturbing another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1953mack Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Worn inboard or outboard body-to-frame mounting pads below the door's latch jamb area causing the door to sag at the rear? Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint" Edited January 8, 2017 by 1953mack (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 The vent window is perfect where it sits front to back. It's in and out that's the issue. After playing with it for about 2.5 hours today after getting home from work, it is marginally better but still way off IMO. I would like to see a perfectly aligned 54-56 vent window for reference, both in and out. I think that's the best I'll get it before body mods are made to the mounting. Willie supplied me with some info that was of great help. Unfortunately, all adjustments to bring the vent closer to the center of the car are maxed out, which will require shimming. I was about to remove the vent window again when it started snowing... no wonder I couldn't feel my fingertips lol. Basically there are two in-out adjustments: one at the base of the track at the bottom of the door, and two - at the base of the vent window chrome behind the top door trim. The adjuster at the base of the chrome was already in as far as it could go. I think I can pull the vent in by putting a fender washer behind the top mounting nut. Up and down adjustment was next to nothing, and I set the rotation by matching it to the window frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Can't comment on your car in particular but in general I can say that getting all the windows in alignment is a best overall average fit type of thing. Change one adjustment and it affects all the others. Bring a fit in and another goes out. Best to remove the door panel and trim, put on some music and plan to spend at least an afternoon doing this and that until you get the best average fit in tightness and margins. Don't be surprised if you have to do things like add shims or elongate holes. When you are done have a beer and give yourself a cigar. You have earned it.....................Bob 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Bhigdog said: Don't be surprised if you have to do things like add shims or elongate holes. Always! But think way ahead before doing. And wait till pleasant weather --- nobody thinks well when miserable. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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