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Welding question on modern cars


jpage

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Need some advise on a subject that is not really about antiques. I need to replace the rocker panels on my daughter's 2002 Buick Century and I was thinking about plug welding them instead of pop rivets or cement. My question is , will the welding interfere with any of the computer operations and do I need to disconnect the battery. If I do disconnect the battery, do I have to jump through hoops to get the computer back on line? Any help will be appreciated. I'd rather work on the old stuff...not so much to get screwed up.  Thanks  Jim

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I suggest you always disconnect the battery when working around a car.  As welding goes, I will assume you are plug welding with MIG as I know no one who TIG welds plugs.  TIG starts with a high frequency arc (RF) so I would avoid it around sensitive electronics.  MIG on the other hand is DC.

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Replacing rockers on an 02 means you're car is in rust country.  If you are going to be owning it for a while and with rust on a car this new, I suggest cutting out the cancer and using the panel adhesive. Welding is quicker than panel adhesive and disconnecting the battery is always a good thing, but welding will give you rust lines around the replaced panel years faster than the panel adhesive will.

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Thanks for the info. The car is in good shape but the rockers have started to go and it just has to last for about 3 more years until my daughter is out of med school. Fortunately, she's in VA so there is alot less winter and salt down there than in PA.

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Even with the battery disconnected, welding can induce voltage spikes that can damage the ECU. If you can disconnect or remove the computer, that will be safer. Connect the welding ground electrode as close to the self as possible to minimize stray voltages. Damage to the ECU is a low probability but not impossible.

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1 hour ago, jpage said:

Thanks for the info. The car is in good shape but the rockers have started to go and it just has to last for about 3 more years until my daughter is out of med school. Fortunately, she's in VA so there is alot less winter and salt down there than in PA.

Road salt or not, rockers do tend to collect moisture and welding means no paint on the welding side and burning off the paint on the back side. You take care of everything you see on the working side, fill and sand and paint so things look like they never went bad and you have the seam underneath all your good work where the panels meet that allows moisture to pass from the inside to the body filler on the outside.

 

If you do weld and you're going to paint with a light color and you want it to look good a couple of years from now, spray some undercoating in there to seal your seam. Thinner metal of newer cars means a bigger paint burn on the back side.

 

Also when welding, the closer the ground connect to the welding area the less the chance of cooking anything electronic.

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The rain water route on those cars is down the cowl and out the rocker panels. I bought a '93 Park Ave Ultra around 1998, took off the wipers and cowl screen, and poured a quart of transmission fluid down each side. I jacked up the front and let it drip out the rockers. The car still looked good the last time I saw it.

Tranny fluid has a tendency to creep more than other oils. It gets into all the places better.

 

Not related to welding, but if someone has that style they are planning to save it helps.

Bernie

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While we are on the subject of welding and welding "spikes", it was suggested to me by my audiologist to remove and turn off my hearing aids before welding. She wasn't sure that any damage would occur, but told me to play it safe anyway. I don't need my hearing to weld anyway, so I take her suggestion and pop them out.

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Quote

 

Best check the rear suspension towers and floor panels also. If rockers are an issue these usually go first. Centuries were my favorite Avis car when I was travelling a lot.

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