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1955 Buick Special 4 door hardtop


NC-car-guy

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  • 2 weeks later...

 I opened the 322 I planned to "refresh" . Heads looked good, barely noticeable ridge in cylinders  (just catches your nail if you hold your finger dead on it), no bent push rods, no sign of water... i did however find one cylinder had a whitish tint (pictured) and the bottoms of a few lifters are pitted, but the cam looks good....

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Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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I find it interesting that the coolant passages in the left side of the block ( center positions) are all plugged, while the ones on the right side of the engine are all open.  It's been  years since I had my 322 heads off.  I cannot remember if the head gaskets blocked the flow on these center  coolant passages by design, or if they should be open, to flow to the head. Can you tell by the old gaskets?

 

 

 

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I was wondering if cooing would be more efficient with those holes open, vs closed?  I believe the coolant flows into the block then raises up into the head and returns to the radiator.  With the mid block holes closed to flow,  the coolant in the block can pass to the head via the front and rear port.  The front port coolant hardly passes by a single cylinder. The rear port would have coolant passing by 3 cylinders minimum, thus pulling the hottest water to the back corner of the engine and sending the hottest water through the head.  I wonder if blocking the front passage but opening enough of the other mid block passages to the head ,so that there was equivalent flow area,  would result in additional volume of coolant around the cylinders and some of that hotter water escaping the block earlier, thus removing some engine heat earlier in the process and causing the engine to run cooler?  

 

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6 minutes ago, EmTee said:

 

Could you use good parts from the other engine?

 I think the cam looks ok, but some of the lifters are starting concave on the bottom.  I've read lots of opinions on breaking in new lifters on an old cam.  Some say ok as long as you didn't mix the old lifters in, some say cam and lifters should only be replaced as a set.

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If there is any wear on cam or lifters, then both should be replaced.  Use a 56 cam, lifters and pushrods (cheapest combo).  Just changing to 56 lifters and pushrods will get you by for a awhile.  The cylinders will need to be measured even with no ridge -- someone may have been in there before.

 

Normal coolant flow:  lower radiator hose > water pump > lower block > back of cylinder head > across cylinder head > out front of cylinder head into the crossover manifold > thermostat > upper radiator hose...

You would not want any shortcuts through the center...anyhow those center holes were for removal of casting material and there is no corresponding opening in the cylinder head or block that matches.

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Thanks Willie!   I know the 56 pushrods are a different length, I am guessing the lifters are also, so paired, they would be ok to use with the 55 rocker assembly.   And yes I will verify  measurements before moving forward.

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I'm getting my parts from Russ Martin. I am having a machine shop magnaflux the block and heads, and verify all measurements under $150.  I am hoping to get by with no machining.  They have been very understanding of my nervousness of letting them work on it and did not seem insulted when I told them I will arrange any parts and that I want them to read Russ' tech guide.  HA HA HA  I'll let them do the reassembly there also.  I can focus on other stuff, plus my shop isn't the cleanest!  :-)

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7 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

I'll let them do the reassembly there also.  I can focus on other stuff, plus my shop isn't the cleanest! 

It is about time you learned how to rebuild a nailhead.  And unless there is a dusty gale blowing through your shop, bag it between sessions with a contractors trash bag (home depot)

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18 minutes ago, old-tank said:

It is about time you learned how to rebuild a nailhead.  And unless there is a dusty gale blowing through your shop, bag it between sessions with a contractors trash bag (home depot)

Rotflmao!  You're too funny!  That gives me some motivation though!  Thanks

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I went through my nailhead in the drive way. Yes, the same driveway I painted it in too.  There is probably a fair amount of dust and gravel in my  nailhead and it does ok.  The 283 in the Chevy will probably be next though I don't think it'll be as involved. Probably just a gasket kit and paint.

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3 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Yeah if I was building a Chevy small-block where parts are a lot less expensive and easier to get I wouldn't be as worried

The ONLY problems I have had rebuilding a nailhead was from work done by others:  improper machining and/or assembly.

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Dropped the engine at the shop today.... uhg.   needs to bored, guess I'll be ordering a rebuild kit instead of just a cam kit

They say that on all engines...that's how they make money.  Unless it is over 0.006 worn it can be honed and a re-ring performed on the original pistons.  And replacement pistons are a compromise  and will be lower compression.  My best running nailhead was done like that over objections of the machine shop even after I showed them the service manual.

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So side tracked today and freshened up the engine bay....  i know it's not color correct, but it's the grey i will eventually use in the middle body portion. And yes i painted the little black rubber bits, i will replace them later...

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