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1955 Buick Special 4 door hardtop


NC-car-guy

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So my original doors had some rust out at the bottoms and some of the window frames were rough, so I thought I'd just swap for the better doors with better windows that I had from Bob.  Well its done, not real sure if it was easier or not. Lol ?20170220_183919.thumb.jpg.2049e3c8240cddbac68e2006f6d2afb7.jpgSorry no photos down the other side, when I pushed it back in, I got it too close on that side.

20170220_183932.jpg

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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On 2/25/2017 at 4:51 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

Gathering bits for my century look-a-like, then this car is off to be a roof donor!

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As many folks ask about these headliner trim bits, I wish I had another set.

Are all those parts chromed steel or are some stainless?

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On 3/6/2017 at 5:01 AM, wndsofchng06 said:

Chromed steel i believe

I was asking cuz I just bought 3 new reproduction bows. The guy who I found to polish stainless has refinished tri-five Chev stuff as they had headliner bows in 55 Belair 2 Dr HTS. However the side trim you show is chromed steel and expensive to rechrome, as opposed to the Chev side pieces, which are stainless and able to be refinished. Don't know yet if any of the Chev stuff interchanges with Buick, but I measured across the bottom of the repro chrome bows he had and it matches closely, 54", in width to my 55 Century 2 Dr HT project. I thought I'd check with the powder coating guy and see if he has coating to mimic chrome for my existing side trim above windows on my car to try and mod the bows into my Cent 2 Dr, which didn't, for whatever reason come with it from factory. If your looking to install that trim in your 4 Dr these repro top bows might be  a cheaper (50.00 each) alternative to re-chromeing existing if I find they fit. Thanx for posting the photos! 

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1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said:

If one tells the machine shop, "no hurry" , what is an acceptable time period to expect a call back.  I dropped three 322 blocks off for cleaning and crack detection.

Never, never, ever tell them "no hurry"...it will not be any less expensive.  Alway say you want it as soon as possible.  Even then they will put this old stuff on the 'back burner' and do contemporary engines or respond to who agitates more.  There also will be enough delays looking for parts.  Some things sitting and waiting will get damage and parts show up missing.  Or drop it off when they are ready and willing.

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16 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Jeez  yea I don't wanna wait 5 mos... I want to drive this summer

 

I really was not in a hurry. I had  set completed and ready to install.  Willie is right.  Take your time translates  to back burner when they have the time.  

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Remove any ridge at the top; hone only to remove the glaze; use hone grit appropriate for the type of replacement rings; put pistons back into the cylinders they came out of.  The ring grooves in the pistons will need to be cleaned; use premium name brand moly rings (will conform to and tolerate any cylinder irregularities).

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18 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Should I still have him hone the cylinders to "match" the pistons?  or is that only after a bore and with new pistons?

 

Are you reusing the pistons and installing new rings only?   If so,  hone and install with the new rings. 

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3 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Remove any ridge at the top; hone only to remove the glaze; use hone grit appropriate for the type of replacement rings; put pistons back into the cylinders they came out of.  The ring grooves in the pistons will need to be cleaned; use premium name brand moly rings (will conform to and tolerate any cylinder irregularities).

  This is what I suspected and as I have done with other non-Buick engines in the past. :)

 

 The only reason I've really gone to the machine shop was to get it magnafluxed.  Then they started talking about it probably needed boring and each cylinder would have to be honed to the piston, etc.  

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15 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Remove any ridge at the top; hone only to remove the glaze; use hone grit appropriate for the type of replacement rings; put pistons back into the cylinders they came out of.  The ring grooves in the pistons will need to be cleaned; use premium name brand moly rings (will conform to and tolerate any cylinder irregularities).

 

Man speaks truth!  

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  • 2 weeks later...

The guy that wrote that needs to hire a labeling assistant so someone can read what it is! Shows the results of first in class, third grade after acoupla tries thru!

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13 hours ago, Beemon said:

54-55 guys get all the fun on these forums. I'd be lucky if I came across standard transmission parts for a 56 and had the cash to grab it, too.

Lemme know when your ready! Yee of little faith....

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